I just replaced the rear brake shoes on my 99 Rodeo 2WD - here's a tip - don't buy replacement after market shoes from Bennett Auto... I did, and the shoes fit fine, until I tried to put the new drum on, and it wouldn't go on... thought I was losing my mind - made sure adjuster was all the way in, etc... - took shoes off & brought to Napa instead - had them pull their brand of shoes for my truck & they were approx 1/8" thinner - went home & put them on and voila.. brought 1st set back to Bennett and had them double check their parts book to make sure pulled right set and their book showed this model shoe for 99 Rodeo - told the manager they're not right - too thick and showed him Napa's shoe thickness to prove it - he shrugged it off and gave me a refund. Told him he needed to change their book because it caused me alot of grief and time - he didn't seem to care (brake shoes manuf'd by Morse). Hope this helps other people not have to deal w/same problem.
cbeam2, I am having the same problem with my 2001 Rodeo LSE. Just started happening today. My rodeo sounds like the starter drags when you try to start it . The first time I tried starting it this morning it just clicked. So I checked battery and starter connections. All connections were tight. Hope someone can help us with this problem. I recently had the shift adjuster cable come loose form my ignition switch. I had to attach the cable back on the ignition switch. It had been working fine till today. Don't know if this has any thing to do with it or not.
Is there anyway to find out what the failure code is in a Rodeo without an Analyzer? Is there a good analyzer out there or some software that will work with a laptop or Palm O/S? General comments on my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo How can Isuzu make any money by building a crappy car and giving a 10 year warranty on it? I bought mine new and so far have had the speedometer go out, the 4 wheel drive, the computer fail, the cruise control go out, the gas level sensor break and the rear passenger window motor die. My neighbor has one and his CD player failed, 4 wheel went out and several other things I forgot. He garaged it for the last year of his lease and got another car. I bought the car because it was Japanese made (quality assured?) and figured the 10 year warranty was backed up by quality. Something is missing somewhere. On the other hand, the local Isuzu dealers have been very helpful and have fixed all of the problems. As it has passed it's 3rd year I think I am responsible for future failures other than the drivetrain....Aha! That is where Isuzu will make their money back! I have a 2nd car, Toyota Sienna, one year old 20K miles and haven't had a single problem with it...any new car will be a Toyota based on that experience. Sienna Hybrid - can't wait!
I have a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo with 64,000 mi on it. I just had the lifters replaced, but the ticking noise is still there. I'm told there's a 100 mi "break in" period. I'm past that. I was told there could be a chance that they could still stick and will have to be replaced again. Could this remedy the problem? Anyone know if this is accurate info?? I am supposed to be taking it on a long distance trip of about 4,000 mi. Would that be safe to do??? thanks
Swampash; I guess that "one man's steak is another man's hamburger"... I have a 2001 Rodeo S V6 2WD that now has 65K miles on it. The only problems that I've had was a pinging (fixed by a engine computer firmware update) and a transmission slip where the truck would lurch into gear from a stop (internal problem in the transmission, which I have had service religously based on what I had read here). The dealer base has shrunk appreciably, but Braley and Graham in Beaverton OR has done a great job whenever ive needed dealership service (they are the only dealer left in the Portland Metro / Southwest WA region). I replaced the shocks with the SensaTracks from Monroe based on advice that I received here. They werent a problem, but BOY what an improvement they were. I wouldnt consider it a design flaw, just an improvement. Its never let me down. I'm getting the same 20-21 mpg for mixed city/hway commute that I got at 1.25 a gallon at todays 2.69. My other car is a Corolla, and it is as reliable as an anvil as well. (35 mpg)
Just thought that someone needed to chime in with something positive every now and then !!
I've got a 1994 Isuzu Rodeo with 134000 miles on it. Never had any trouble with it until smog check time. After the problem was "fixed" the car became a gutless wonder. Couldn't take it back to the smog place as they tore the place down for a parking lot 2 days later. Anyway, took it to a mechanic for a tune-up. When I went to pick up the car the mechanic said they did what they could but the engine is still not right. Starts fine, idles perfect , but when you step on the gas it just about croaks. :sick: Any ideas as to the problem? Any info is appreciated.
Hey Man, I've had a 1992 rodeo with the 3.1 V6 and now I got a 04 Rodeo with the 3.5 V6. I've come to find that both these engines make a noise that sounds sorta like the lifters are bad. It's just the engine design. On my 92 that I had, I bought the truck with 40,000 miles and it made the same noise until it met its demise with 120,000 on it, and the engine on that thing was immaculate. Man I hate the [non-permissible content removed] that hit that truck. My new Rodeo now makes a similar noise which I have found to be the direct injection. At first I didn't know what to make of it so I brought it back to the dealer and they told me it was nothing... then I went to my regular mechanic, who does all the work I don't have the time for and he told me that it's the direct injection. Also If its a aluminum block when you first start it up you may hear some piston slap until everything heats up and expands.
Hey..... Thanks alot..... I've been wanting to go get rims and tires for awhile now but didn't know what size I could safely get on there... Most of the guys at the tire places don't know their [non-permissible content removed] from their elbow and just know what the book says. Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of putting on a set of American Racing Baja wheels 16 X 8 with a Mickey Thomson tire if I can find something that fits or a set of Bridgestone AT's.
I have a 99 rodeo.I have a problem with my rpm meter it doesnt go pass 30 it always between 20 and 30 doesnt matter how fast im going and i notice a lack of power when i accelerate.Do you guys have any idea what would be the problem? THANX...
Hi everyone, I am thinking about buying Isuzu Rodeo 2000 with about 57,000 for a fairly good price. I don't know much about these cars and was told that they are exactly the same as Honda Passport. Would you recomend this car (it is always the best to get oppinion from the people who own one and not a sales rep in the dealership)? I drive 30K a year and need an SUV because of the job. Thanks for you help.
1998 Rodeo with 66,000 miles. I am also experiencing transmission problems. When starting the car in the morning or after it has sat for a period of time the car seem to lurch forward or other times jerks. It also seems like the tires are kinda of skidding( like when you slam on the brakes too hard. I am in the process of selling it and want to be sure it runs okay before I do that.
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS, < 120 K miles, Manual(Stick Shift), Single owner.
I bought 1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS in Dallas Texas in January 1996. I was a happy camper so far. It has exceeded my expectations for me for the past 9 years. I have done minimal maintenance on the car. This year looks really bad, now it is due for major repair. I am not an expert on any car issue. I need lot of help.
Last week I started getting check engine light on intermittently. I am not sure why was that. AC would stop working whenever that light came on. Sadly I kept driving for couple of days rather than taking it to a local mechanic or to a dealership.
Just yesterday car came to complete stop near intersections and traffic lights when I slowed down OR when that car is idling. Some how I got it started 3 times and came home. Also ALL of the engine lights near the speedometer would be on when it stopped. Engine noise does not sound smooth. Steering fluid is JUST below minimum. Radio also has stopped working.
Also car is due for 120K mile service, (last major service was 60K). I am not sure what is going on. I have done oil changes fairly regularly. And I have not done any other service at all apart from them. Any tips or ideas, before I take it to mechanic. I will be taking to mechanic may be on Monday. I may have to get it towed. I do not feel comfortable driving it until major things are fixed.
Here are some more details:
Looks like lug nuts and its rods are made of soft metal or Sams Club or Walmart folks or my local mechanics who do the tire rotation messed it up by wrong threading or by using wrong power tools. Pretty much all of them have to be replaced. Expensive!
Bear Joint and Valve cover needs replacement.
Timing belt change done at 60K. Next one is due.
Several times window up and down mechanism fixed
Alternator switch fixed
3 times all tire changed
No brake replacement done yet. 80% worn out. I have to replace them now.
No shock replacement done yet. 100% worn out. Any ideas as which one to replace them with? It was always a rough ride for me from pretty much from day one. I accepted that as part of driving Rodeo. I really would prefer smoother ride. I am an NOT an off road driver at all.
Near the back wheel, I think axle seal is leaking that needs to be fixed. I am afraid that has been the case for at least an year. Hopefully whole oil may not been drained?
Speedometer light is broken, I heard it is little expensive to replace those, as one has to remove lot of stuff to get to them .
Trunk glass door spring has stopped working. How do I find the replacement. Cassette player stopped working couple of years back.
When do I do the following changes or fixes to these? Tension Water Pump Transmission Fluid Serpentine Head Gasket Coolant Fuel Filter Front and Back Differential Fluid Replace PCV
Any ideas on these from the experts? Thanks in advance.
It seems like this is a common issue with the Rodeo... My 2000 Rodeo started behaving the same way about a month ago. Did you find any solution to your problem. Any suggestions? I had just replaced the AC compressor, and that would be wrong if I have to replace the transmission. Please reply whether you have good or bad news. Thanks.
I have just bought a 1995 honda passport for my wife and have noticed a ticking noise sounds like coming from valve train is there anything i can do to make the noise any quieter
The Rodeo Shocks from 98-02 are the same. Get a set of the Rancho 9000s which are actually new as of a few months ago. Both Darlington and Independent are great guys to deal with, and I've personally offroaded with Matt from Independent.
Update on the car, I just brought the car from my mechanic after repairs. He replaced the radiator. He said that was not functioning properly. I also did the 120K miles service. Check engine light seems to have gone away. Also AC and radio works fine now.
Update on the car, I just brought the car from my mechanic after repairs. He replaced the radiator alternator . He said that was not functioning properly. I also did the 120K miles service. Check engine light seems to have gone away. Also AC and radio works fine now.
There is three skews in between the body and the light lens. Two on the out side of of the body and one between the bumber and the lens, then you have to pull the whole tail light out.
I have the same problem and I kind of found the connection between the LEDs on the dash board (S 1 2 3 D R P) and the jerky move when accelarating or decelarating the car. Whenever I turn on the engine and do not see the LEDs then the problem would happen. Looks like the transmission computer control box is either defective or loose connection somewhere. If you found the solution please let me know. Thanks
I understand that on the 2001 Rodeo there are 2 screws between the body and the light box and one between the bumper and the box. On my 1999, I see the one between the bumper and the light box but nothing on the body. I even looked behind the tail gate. Has anybody out there changed a tail light on this model? I really don't want to go to a dealer and pay the hourly rate to change a 2 dollar light.
My 2000 Rodeo has this intermitent problem too. Sometimes when braking it feels like it's skidding and the car lurches when it shifts (auto) to second. This only happens when the dash LEDs are not working properly or not showing at all. Another day the LEDS work fine and there is no problem with accelerating or braking. Please let me know too if you find out what's going on here...and I'll do the same.
Before I get the runaround from the dealer - Can anyone tell me why the transmission might be slipping in 1st and reverse - It's a hassel to drive especialy when it violently jerks when it finally does engage - Is there a process to narrow the problem- Any assistance is much appreciated - Thanks!
I've got a 94 Passport with the 16" alloy wheels that came with it. Anyone with tire suggestions for the wet and snowy environs of Western Canada? Stockers were 245/70x16's
I have a 99 Rodeo LS V6. Having trouble with the shifter handle moving out of the Park position. Most of the time you have to push in the button on the shifter handle and lightly shake the handle from side to side to allow the button to engage fully. Once the button is all the way in, the shifter handle will move out of Park.
I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo and everytime I shift from Park to reverse I have to let it idle before it will go into gear. Now when it does back up it catches and it ludges forward. While I am on the road it shifts fine itno each gear. Two weeks ago I thought my alternator was going out and I had a broke belt instead. Could this have anything to do with my problmes now?
I have a 99 rodeo.Recently the check engine light came on but after a day or two it came off then came on again.What is that mean?What i need to get done?Need some advice.THANKS...
Can you point me to the "how to" info. I am having problems with my 95 rodeo. Someone suggested cleaning/replacing the egr valve, but I have no info. Thanx.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed my A/C light was out. When I stopped, I noticed it had blown the 10amp fuse under the hood. Replaced it, switched on the A/C and after a couple of minutes, it blew the fuse again. I checked the A/C and condenser fan relays and they seem to be fine. I surmised it could be the fan, since about the time it should kick on when idling the fuse seem to blow again, fan never came on. I finally got to the fan electrical connection and was able to put power to it from the battery. Nothing. I am hoping that if the fan doesn't work, the A/C will kick off so there is no overheating. So....since the fan isn't working, I have been looking for a replacement. I have not been able to come up with a new one from the auto parts stores in person or over the net. I have found a used one over the net from a salvage. Does anybody know why you can't get a new one??? If they are out there, where in the world are they??
Well, I guess my problem is even worse... The leds on the dash board are fine but the car wouldn't move. Anyone else has this problem, or could suggest something? Thanks
I have a 94 rodeo 5 speed basically the smae thing as the passport,,and basically doing the same thing as the passport. My question is, is where is the safety switch located? what does it look like. They are about 60 bucks at napa. Also could I get by with jumpering it?
I'm also having this problem with my '99 Rodeo, where the transmission is slipping in 1st gear/drive and it jerks when it finally does engage. Do you guys know what might be causing it or what I can do to fix it? It seems to only slip when I start the car, and goes away once I've driven the car for a few miles. I've already tried changing my transmission fluids and filter. Please help!
I bought a brand new 04 Rodeo in December of 04. About 5 or 6 months later, I started noticing it acting funny (i.e. no power, missing, sometimes wouldn't start the first time, etc...). It had about 18000 miles on it so I took it in to the dealership. It had to have all new spark plugs, because the ones in it were bad. Even after that the problem wasn't completely fixed. Then when it had about 22000 miles on it, my husband and I were driving down the highway and turned the rear defroster on and my back window EXPLODED!!! We finally got them talked into taking responsibility for it and fixing. There is no doubt in my mind that the rear defroster did do this to my window. I got tired of not having a dependable vehicle so the day they got my window fixed I TRADED IT. I CAN DEFINITELY SAY I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER ISUZU!!!! :lemon:
I replaced my original Bridgstones with Michelin LTX M/S. used them as all year tires for the last 30K mi. Excelent tires for winter and very quite and nice tires for summer. I've driven through several winter blizards and did a lot of beach driving. Granted, it doesn't perfom just as good as studded snows on clear ice, but based on my experience this has so far been the best tire i've ever had on any car.
LTX also comes in A/T configuration, but they don't have the size that would fit Rodeo. Also, I doubt A/T will perform just as good as M/S on snow and in wet conditions. For off-roading and beach/sand driving, it'll probably outperform M/S, but for regular city/mountain driving, I think, M/S is the best you can get for this truck.
dude i have the same problem...check ur gas cap first...if that doest work then its more than likely ur egr flow valve....they have tendancy to "go bad". It wont hurt ur car tho.
THE REDUCE POWER INDICATOR AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEEP COMING ON IN MY 2001 REDEO SPORT. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME BACK TO THE DEALER THIS MONTH. THEY HAVE REPLACE THE EGCI WIRING HARNESS AND NOW ARE PRETTY PREPLEXED AS TO WHAT IS CAUSING THIS PROBLEM. CAN ANY ONE HELP?
Thanks for your contribution. I took my rodeo in yesterday and after they came back with "take it to the dealer" I insisted that they go ahead and replace the alternator. They were surprised when that worked and I was glad I had read your advice. Thanks again
You need to get it to a dealer... especially wdlands99, his is the same year as mine. The dealer is aware of the problem and can fix it quickly (I had the problem as well). Its important to let the dealer handle transmission issues, as these are sealed units that a consumer really cant even check the fluid level on.
I have a 1994 Rodeo 4WD with 92k miles. Over the last year or so, I have had the alternator, crank sensor, battery and idler pulley replaced. These were all done by the same mechanic. My thought process was that they all may have had something to do with eachother so if there were any mistakes made I wouldn't have to pay twice.
The alternator was first and seems to be "alternating" just fine. The crank sensor was next and was a big price tag b/c they couldn't get it out. They said it was melted in the casing and they (eventually) used a heated up screw driver to re-melt the plastic and pull it back out. After they finished, the car still wouldn't start. In a nutshell, their work order said "no power to ignition module......no power to computer......main feed wire somtimes had power and sometimes didn't". They ended up "running a new fused feed to ECM and ignition module".
Now my temp gauge jumps to half way within 5 minutes and then slowly creeps toward the red while never hitting it or overheating. (Although two weeks ago I heard the radiator boiling when I shut the car off. This has never happened before or since.)
Can this just be an elctrical glitch with the gauges that has nothing to do with the car running hot or should I be targeting somthing else? I have the oil changed regularly and they tell me the fluids are fine and it must be the dial.
Sorry for the long post. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Just today of all days. My husband took the truck to work and called me half way through the day and said that antifreeze was leaking from behind the motor but maybe from the bell housing. Does anyone know if there are any gaskets or freeze plugs in this area that might be leaking? I really want my truck back. :surprise:
Comments
I am having the same problem with my 2001 Rodeo LSE. Just started happening today. My rodeo sounds like the starter drags when you try to start it .
The first time I tried starting it this morning it just clicked. So I checked battery and starter connections. All connections were tight. Hope someone can help us
with this problem. I recently had the shift adjuster cable come loose form my ignition switch. I had to attach the cable back on the ignition switch. It had been working fine till today. Don't know if this has any thing to do with it or not.
I have a 1998 Rodeo with the same issue "intermittant" shifting issue!
Is there a good analyzer out there or some software that will work with a laptop or Palm O/S?
General comments on my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo
How can Isuzu make any money by building a crappy car and giving a 10 year warranty on it?
I bought mine new and so far have had the speedometer go out, the 4 wheel drive, the computer fail, the cruise control go out, the gas level sensor break and the rear passenger window motor die. My neighbor has one and his CD player failed, 4 wheel went out and several other things I forgot. He garaged it for the last year of his lease and got another car.
I bought the car because it was Japanese made (quality assured?) and figured the 10 year warranty was backed up by quality. Something is missing somewhere.
On the other hand, the local Isuzu dealers have been very helpful and have fixed all of the problems. As it has passed it's 3rd year I think I am responsible for future failures other than the drivetrain....Aha! That is where Isuzu will make their money back!
I have a 2nd car, Toyota Sienna, one year old 20K miles and haven't had a single problem with it...any new car will be a Toyota based on that experience.
Sienna Hybrid - can't wait!
I own the exact same vehicle with only 30k miles and am having the same problem at very low speeds when going straight or turning.
Did you ever find out what it was?
I have read through tons of info and have yet to see a diagnosis that fits the ailment.
Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
I guess that "one man's steak is another man's hamburger"...
I have a 2001 Rodeo S V6 2WD that now has 65K miles on it. The only problems that I've had was a pinging (fixed by a engine computer firmware update) and a transmission slip where the truck would lurch into gear from a stop (internal problem in the transmission, which I have had service religously based on what I had read here). The dealer base has shrunk appreciably, but Braley and Graham in Beaverton OR has done a great job whenever ive needed dealership service (they are the only dealer left in the Portland Metro / Southwest WA region).
I replaced the shocks with the SensaTracks from Monroe based on advice that I received here. They werent a problem, but BOY what an improvement they were. I wouldnt consider it a design flaw, just an improvement.
Its never let me down.
I'm getting the same 20-21 mpg for mixed city/hway commute that I got at 1.25 a gallon at todays 2.69.
My other car is a Corolla, and it is as reliable as an anvil as well. (35 mpg)
Just thought that someone needed to chime in with something positive every now and then !!
Cheers from the Pacific Northwest... Mike
I've had a 1992 rodeo with the 3.1 V6 and now I got a 04 Rodeo with the 3.5 V6. I've come to find that both these engines make a noise that sounds sorta like the lifters are bad. It's just the engine design. On my 92 that I had, I bought the truck with 40,000 miles and it made the same noise until it met its demise with 120,000 on it, and the engine on that thing was immaculate. Man I hate the [non-permissible content removed] that hit that truck. My new Rodeo now makes a similar noise which I have found to be the direct injection. At first I didn't know what to make of it so I brought it back to the dealer and they told me it was nothing... then I went to my regular mechanic, who does all the work I don't have the time for and he told me that it's the direct injection. Also If its a aluminum block when you first start it up you may hear some piston slap until everything heats up and expands.
Hope it was some help.
Josh
Thanks again....
THANX...
I am thinking about buying Isuzu Rodeo 2000 with about 57,000 for a fairly good price. I don't know much about these cars and was told that they are exactly the same as Honda Passport.
Would you recomend this car (it is always the best to get oppinion from the people who own one and not a sales rep in the dealership)? I drive 30K a year and need an SUV because of the job.
Thanks for you help.
I am also experiencing transmission problems. When starting the car in the morning or after it has sat for a period of time the car seem to lurch forward or other times jerks. It also seems like the tires are kinda of skidding( like when you slam on the brakes too hard. I am in the process of selling it and want to be sure it runs okay before I do that.
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS, < 120 K miles, Manual(Stick Shift), Single owner.
I bought 1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS in Dallas Texas in January 1996. I was a happy camper so far. It has exceeded my expectations for me for the past 9 years. I have done minimal maintenance on the car. This year looks really bad, now it is due for major repair. I am not an expert on any car issue. I need lot of help.
Last week I started getting check engine light on intermittently. I am not sure why was that. AC would stop working whenever that light came on. Sadly I kept driving for couple of days rather than taking it to a local mechanic or to a dealership.
Just yesterday car came to complete stop near intersections and traffic lights when I slowed down OR when that car is idling. Some how I got it started 3 times and came home. Also ALL of the engine lights near the speedometer would be on when it stopped. Engine noise does not sound smooth. Steering fluid is JUST below minimum. Radio also has stopped working.
Also car is due for 120K mile service, (last major service was 60K). I am not sure what is going on. I have done oil changes fairly regularly. And I have not done any other service at all apart from them. Any tips or ideas, before I take it to mechanic. I will be taking to mechanic may be on Monday. I may have to get it towed. I do not feel comfortable driving it until major things are fixed.
Here are some more details:
Looks like lug nuts and its rods are made of soft metal or Sams Club or Walmart folks or my local mechanics who do the tire rotation messed it up by wrong threading or by using wrong power tools. Pretty much all of them have to be replaced. Expensive!
Bear Joint and Valve cover needs replacement.
Timing belt change done at 60K. Next one is due.
Several times window up and down mechanism fixed
Alternator switch fixed
3 times all tire changed
No brake replacement done yet. 80% worn out. I have to replace them now.
No shock replacement done yet. 100% worn out. Any ideas as which one to replace them with? It was always a rough ride for me from pretty much from day one. I accepted that as part of driving Rodeo. I really would prefer smoother ride. I am an NOT an off road driver at all.
Near the back wheel, I think axle seal is leaking that needs to be fixed. I am afraid that has been the case for at least an year. Hopefully whole oil may not been drained?
Speedometer light is broken, I heard it is little expensive to replace those, as one has to remove lot of stuff to get to them .
Trunk glass door spring has stopped working. How do I find the replacement. Cassette player stopped working couple of years back.
When do I do the following changes or fixes to these?
Tension
Water Pump
Transmission Fluid
Serpentine
Head Gasket
Coolant
Fuel Filter
Front and Back Differential Fluid
Replace PCV
Any ideas on these from the experts? Thanks in advance.
No screws on lenses, so how do you get in to change a brake light?
My 2000 Rodeo started behaving the same way about a month ago.
Did you find any solution to your problem. Any suggestions?
I had just replaced the AC compressor, and that would be wrong if I have to replace the transmission.
Please reply whether you have good or bad news. Thanks.
-mike
radiatoralternator . He said that was not functioning properly. I also did the 120K miles service. Check engine light seems to have gone away. Also AC and radio works fine now.Thanks
Thanks
Another day the LEDS work fine and there is no problem with accelerating or braking. Please let me know too if you find out what's going on here...and I'll do the same.
thx
K
Any ideas out there?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
HELP!!!!!
it came off then came on again.What is that mean?What i need to get done?Need some advice.THANKS...
Thanx.
So....since the fan isn't working, I have been looking for a replacement. I have not been able to come up with a new one from the auto parts stores in person or over the net. I have found a used one over the net from a salvage. Does anybody know why you can't get a new one??? If they are out there, where in the world are they??
Thanks for any info
The leds on the dash board are fine but the car wouldn't move.
Anyone else has this problem, or could suggest something?
Thanks
How could this be possible?
Please let me know.
Thanks a lot
LTX also comes in A/T configuration, but they don't have the size that would fit Rodeo. Also, I doubt A/T will perform just as good as M/S on snow and in wet conditions. For off-roading and beach/sand driving, it'll probably outperform M/S, but for regular city/mountain driving, I think, M/S is the best you can get for this truck.
cheers from a very rainy Washington state...
Mike
The alternator was first and seems to be "alternating" just fine. The crank sensor was next and was a big price tag b/c they couldn't get it out. They said it was melted in the casing and they (eventually) used a heated up screw driver to re-melt the plastic and pull it back out. After they finished, the car still wouldn't start. In a nutshell, their work order said "no power to ignition module......no power to computer......main feed wire somtimes had power and sometimes didn't". They ended up "running a new fused feed to ECM and ignition module".
Now my temp gauge jumps to half way within 5 minutes and then slowly creeps toward the red while never hitting it or overheating. (Although two weeks ago I heard the radiator boiling when I shut the car off. This has never happened before or since.)
Can this just be an elctrical glitch with the gauges that has nothing to do with the car running hot or should I be targeting somthing else? I have the oil changed regularly and they tell me the fluids are fine and it must be the dial.
Sorry for the long post. Any thoughts would be appreciated!