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I am having the same problem with my 2001 Rodeo LSE. Just started happening today. My rodeo sounds like the starter drags when you try to start it .
The first time I tried starting it this morning it just clicked. So I checked battery and starter connections. All connections were tight. Hope someone can help us
with this problem. I recently had the shift adjuster cable come loose form my ignition switch. I had to attach the cable back on the ignition switch. It had been working fine till today. Don't know if this has any thing to do with it or not.
I have a 1998 Rodeo with the same issue "intermittant" shifting issue!
Is there a good analyzer out there or some software that will work with a laptop or Palm O/S?
General comments on my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo
How can Isuzu make any money by building a crappy car and giving a 10 year warranty on it?
I bought mine new and so far have had the speedometer go out, the 4 wheel drive, the computer fail, the cruise control go out, the gas level sensor break and the rear passenger window motor die. My neighbor has one and his CD player failed, 4 wheel went out and several other things I forgot. He garaged it for the last year of his lease and got another car.
I bought the car because it was Japanese made (quality assured?) and figured the 10 year warranty was backed up by quality. Something is missing somewhere.
On the other hand, the local Isuzu dealers have been very helpful and have fixed all of the problems. As it has passed it's 3rd year I think I am responsible for future failures other than the drivetrain....Aha! That is where Isuzu will make their money back!
I have a 2nd car, Toyota Sienna, one year old 20K miles and haven't had a single problem with it...any new car will be a Toyota based on that experience.
Sienna Hybrid - can't wait!
I own the exact same vehicle with only 30k miles and am having the same problem at very low speeds when going straight or turning.
Did you ever find out what it was?
I have read through tons of info and have yet to see a diagnosis that fits the ailment.
Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
I guess that "one man's steak is another man's hamburger"...
I have a 2001 Rodeo S V6 2WD that now has 65K miles on it. The only problems that I've had was a pinging (fixed by a engine computer firmware update) and a transmission slip where the truck would lurch into gear from a stop (internal problem in the transmission, which I have had service religously based on what I had read here). The dealer base has shrunk appreciably, but Braley and Graham in Beaverton OR has done a great job whenever ive needed dealership service (they are the only dealer left in the Portland Metro / Southwest WA region).
I replaced the shocks with the SensaTracks from Monroe based on advice that I received here. They werent a problem, but BOY what an improvement they were. I wouldnt consider it a design flaw, just an improvement.
Its never let me down.
I'm getting the same 20-21 mpg for mixed city/hway commute that I got at 1.25 a gallon at todays 2.69.
My other car is a Corolla, and it is as reliable as an anvil as well. (35 mpg)
Just thought that someone needed to chime in with something positive every now and then !!
Cheers from the Pacific Northwest... Mike
I've had a 1992 rodeo with the 3.1 V6 and now I got a 04 Rodeo with the 3.5 V6. I've come to find that both these engines make a noise that sounds sorta like the lifters are bad. It's just the engine design. On my 92 that I had, I bought the truck with 40,000 miles and it made the same noise until it met its demise with 120,000 on it, and the engine on that thing was immaculate. Man I hate the [non-permissible content removed] that hit that truck. My new Rodeo now makes a similar noise which I have found to be the direct injection. At first I didn't know what to make of it so I brought it back to the dealer and they told me it was nothing... then I went to my regular mechanic, who does all the work I don't have the time for and he told me that it's the direct injection. Also If its a aluminum block when you first start it up you may hear some piston slap until everything heats up and expands.
Hope it was some help.
Josh
Thanks again....
THANX...
I am thinking about buying Isuzu Rodeo 2000 with about 57,000 for a fairly good price. I don't know much about these cars and was told that they are exactly the same as Honda Passport.
Would you recomend this car (it is always the best to get oppinion from the people who own one and not a sales rep in the dealership)? I drive 30K a year and need an SUV because of the job.
Thanks for you help.
I am also experiencing transmission problems. When starting the car in the morning or after it has sat for a period of time the car seem to lurch forward or other times jerks. It also seems like the tires are kinda of skidding( like when you slam on the brakes too hard. I am in the process of selling it and want to be sure it runs okay before I do that.
1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS, < 120 K miles, Manual(Stick Shift), Single owner.
I bought 1995.5 Isuzu Rodeo LS in Dallas Texas in January 1996. I was a happy camper so far. It has exceeded my expectations for me for the past 9 years. I have done minimal maintenance on the car. This year looks really bad, now it is due for major repair. I am not an expert on any car issue. I need lot of help.
Last week I started getting check engine light on intermittently. I am not sure why was that. AC would stop working whenever that light came on. Sadly I kept driving for couple of days rather than taking it to a local mechanic or to a dealership.
Just yesterday car came to complete stop near intersections and traffic lights when I slowed down OR when that car is idling. Some how I got it started 3 times and came home. Also ALL of the engine lights near the speedometer would be on when it stopped. Engine noise does not sound smooth. Steering fluid is JUST below minimum. Radio also has stopped working.
Also car is due for 120K mile service, (last major service was 60K). I am not sure what is going on. I have done oil changes fairly regularly. And I have not done any other service at all apart from them. Any tips or ideas, before I take it to mechanic. I will be taking to mechanic may be on Monday. I may have to get it towed. I do not feel comfortable driving it until major things are fixed.
Here are some more details:
Looks like lug nuts and its rods are made of soft metal or Sams Club or Walmart folks or my local mechanics who do the tire rotation messed it up by wrong threading or by using wrong power tools. Pretty much all of them have to be replaced. Expensive!
Bear Joint and Valve cover needs replacement.
Timing belt change done at 60K. Next one is due.
Several times window up and down mechanism fixed
Alternator switch fixed
3 times all tire changed
No brake replacement done yet. 80% worn out. I have to replace them now.
No shock replacement done yet. 100% worn out. Any ideas as which one to replace them with? It was always a rough ride for me from pretty much from day one. I accepted that as part of driving Rodeo. I really would prefer smoother ride. I am an NOT an off road driver at all.
Near the back wheel, I think axle seal is leaking that needs to be fixed. I am afraid that has been the case for at least an year. Hopefully whole oil may not been drained?
Speedometer light is broken, I heard it is little expensive to replace those, as one has to remove lot of stuff to get to them .
Trunk glass door spring has stopped working. How do I find the replacement. Cassette player stopped working couple of years back.
When do I do the following changes or fixes to these?
Tension
Water Pump
Transmission Fluid
Serpentine
Head Gasket
Coolant
Fuel Filter
Front and Back Differential Fluid
Replace PCV
Any ideas on these from the experts? Thanks in advance.
No screws on lenses, so how do you get in to change a brake light?
My 2000 Rodeo started behaving the same way about a month ago.
Did you find any solution to your problem. Any suggestions?
I had just replaced the AC compressor, and that would be wrong if I have to replace the transmission.
Please reply whether you have good or bad news. Thanks.
-mike
radiatoralternator . He said that was not functioning properly. I also did the 120K miles service. Check engine light seems to have gone away. Also AC and radio works fine now.Thanks
Thanks
Another day the LEDS work fine and there is no problem with accelerating or braking. Please let me know too if you find out what's going on here...and I'll do the same.
thx
K
Any ideas out there?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
HELP!!!!!
it came off then came on again.What is that mean?What i need to get done?Need some advice.THANKS...
Thanx.
So....since the fan isn't working, I have been looking for a replacement. I have not been able to come up with a new one from the auto parts stores in person or over the net. I have found a used one over the net from a salvage. Does anybody know why you can't get a new one??? If they are out there, where in the world are they??
Thanks for any info
The leds on the dash board are fine but the car wouldn't move.
Anyone else has this problem, or could suggest something?
Thanks
How could this be possible?
Please let me know.
Thanks a lot
LTX also comes in A/T configuration, but they don't have the size that would fit Rodeo. Also, I doubt A/T will perform just as good as M/S on snow and in wet conditions. For off-roading and beach/sand driving, it'll probably outperform M/S, but for regular city/mountain driving, I think, M/S is the best you can get for this truck.
cheers from a very rainy Washington state...
Mike
The alternator was first and seems to be "alternating" just fine. The crank sensor was next and was a big price tag b/c they couldn't get it out. They said it was melted in the casing and they (eventually) used a heated up screw driver to re-melt the plastic and pull it back out. After they finished, the car still wouldn't start. In a nutshell, their work order said "no power to ignition module......no power to computer......main feed wire somtimes had power and sometimes didn't". They ended up "running a new fused feed to ECM and ignition module".
Now my temp gauge jumps to half way within 5 minutes and then slowly creeps toward the red while never hitting it or overheating. (Although two weeks ago I heard the radiator boiling when I shut the car off. This has never happened before or since.)
Can this just be an elctrical glitch with the gauges that has nothing to do with the car running hot or should I be targeting somthing else? I have the oil changed regularly and they tell me the fluids are fine and it must be the dial.
Sorry for the long post. Any thoughts would be appreciated!