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I forgot was there an actual fix to this or do you just clean it up?
Robert
The approach Drew is taking is correct and will probably be the one I will take as well if I get the problem. Ask your service advisor what they do when insulation comes loose and see if they use the 3M adhesive to glue it back on. If not, bring in your own adhesive and ask them to try using it on the replacement piece.
Of course, now Drew has to tell us where to get it and whether yellow or black is the right type to get :-)
So, oil change accomplished using 8.5 qt of 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic oil at 4970 miles. Thanks to Drew and Biker5 who helped me with all the info. Now I can drive with a peace of mind not having to worry about dirty dino oil ruining the vehicle.
While I was lying under the vehicle, I noticed a few rust spots on the bottom of the chassis/undercarriage. They looked like a result of inferior paint job (paint cracked/chipped)and at one spot, it looked like the paint was damaged when the chassis was rested on the assembly line. (That spot on the chassis looks like a specially molded / reinforced footing for the frame)
Do you guys think the dealer will entertain to fix such rust spots that can easily be blamed on the owners, 10 months after delivery? I remember reading someone made the same complaint to his dealer and had the entire undercarriage rust-proofed for free.
I'm looking to buy a used 2000 ML320, and need a 3rd row seat. For those that currently do not have a 3rd row seat, what is involved in adding it later? Can I buy the seat from the dealer or 3rd party and install it myself, or must I take it to the dealership? Should I just try to find one that already has it? Once installed, is it easily removable or is it fixed to the floor.
I looked through the last houndred or so appends and didn't see anything on this.
Thanks!
The following viscosities are listed for any temperature:
0W30, 5W30, 0W40, 5W40, 5W50.
Above minus 4 degrees Fahrenheit: 10W30, 10W40, 10W50, 10W60.
Above 5 degrees Fahrenheit: 15W40, 15W50.
Above 23 degrees Fahrenheit: 20W40 and 20W50.
It says: "Select oil viscosity according to the lowest air temperature
expected before the next oil change is due."
This is valid for all Mercedes in North America, by the way.
Choose to your liking :-)
- --
Wolf gang Henke
http://www.whnet.com/4x4
The big question to me is do you need a third seat and, if so, how big are the occupants? There is a mixed reaction to the ML's 3rd seat. (I don't have (or need) one.)
FWIW I bought a pre-owned 2000 ML320 at the beginning of this June and think its a great vehicle. Keep searching for the one you want, I'm sure you won't regret it.
Appreciate comments from any leaseholders out there.
Unlike oils of old, today's multiple viscosity oils are more resistant to changes in temperature and can therefore be used in a wider range of climates.
I'm not sure why kenyee told you not to use 5W30. 5W30 can see you through summer in Death Valley and winter in Ankorage.
Don't dump your 5W30, it's fine.
The reason I said that is that MB sent out a letter saying that all MBs should use synthetic from now on, then proceeded to give a list of approved synth oils. Mobil1's 5W30 was not on the list, but Castrol's (I think) was. I wouldn't drain it and dump it, but I would not use it next time. You can search for the lively discussion at www.escribe.com (search for m-class to find the archive of the m-class mailing list).
All ML owners should have received the letter. I did not, but some of the mailing lists' members did so I know the content of it.
This comes up often enought that I'd like to know...
Neicey
No way to search this forum AFAIK.
Mobil1 15W50 is also approved.
There is no 3rd row retrofit kit for MY2000 and above models. You can get the parts and have it done, but it will cost a lot more than the factory option; it would be cheaper to trade it in.
The 1998/1999 models had the 2nd row flipup mechanism in all MLs if I remember right.
At my recent FSS A, I brought it up to the rep. "Sounds normal" was the response. I had him note it on the form anyway and when I returned to pick it up later that day, he informed me it was the fuel pump and sender(?) and that a replacement was in order. I believe he said the mechanic had recently read a bulletin to this effect.
Yesterday, I took it in to have the fuel lines, filter and pump replaced. A rather lengthy repair of 8 hours I'm told. So, thinking back to the recent accounts of fuel pumps suddenly quitting on a few vehicles on this board, I am glad I mentioned it the the rep.
The noise is highly audible, a soft high pitched whistle at idle or higher revs, cold or hot. If your hear it, have it looked at and you may save yourself some major hassle. The repair ticket refers to Tech 88 (don't know if that is a tech bulletin or something else).
Now as of yesterday we have another problem: Gas Tank looks much lower than it supposed to, when full it shows 3/4.
I have called the dealer and here in NJ seems to be long wait for service - three weeks.
I wanted to find out if any of this happened to some of you and if I should be driving with the oil indicator on when it appears again. Thanks.
Thanks
The stunner was $22,500. Ouch! Where is the famous MB resale value? Any thoughts?
--BN
Steve
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What about MB? does anyone know?
Thought I share my experience with everyone, hope I didn't offend any die-hard MB fan. Have a nice weekend, guys!
Too weird. I had a similar experience Wed 7/25 with my wife and her 01 ML 320 w/ 2500 miles. She filled up and it was 1/2 or so on the dash gauge. The next day we went to fill it just to be sure that it really was topped off, and I found that the fuel cap was not on tight. Topped it off (and tightened the cap until it clicked) and the gauge read full. Perhaps your wife didn't tighten the cap all the way?
Good luck
Pete
Loaners? Ha, my last two loaners were a Hyundai Elantra and a Toyota Corolla. Before that, Enterprise rent a car was too busy and I was shipped off to Joe's-Rent-A-Car on main street.
Based on my last few experiences with the service and my current problems with my car, I'm ready to look at Lexus next time, but they don't have anything that I want.
Don't top off. You run the risk of flooding the evaporation canister that is supposed to trap gas vapors.
I have no problems reaching full if you don't use the autofill feature of the hose. As soon as you start hearing the gas gurgle, slow the fill rate down by hand.
1. Sometimes when I take the key out of the ignition and open the door the warning bell goes off as if the key still is in the ignition. Sometimes this happens only after I turn the steering wheel into the locked position. If that were it, it would be a minor issue. However, twice now I have returned to my truck after a sound night's sleep to find that the remote will not open the doors. After manually unlocking the vehicle and having the alarm go off and then putting the key in the ignition, the remote works again. One of the two times this happened, the trip computer also completely reset itself (the date was December, 2001). I'm betting I have a bad steering wheel switch lock thingamabob. Has this happened to anyone?
2. My second problem is a creaky wind deflector for the Skyview. In the wind and when I go over bumps, one side creaks as if the plastic is rubbing against another part. Is this common?
Otherwise, I really like the vehicle. I almost don't miss my SLK.
Your first problem sounds like either a weak battery, or your key needs to be re-synced. The procedure is in the owner's manual. You may also want to try using the other key temporarily to see if this also happens. If it does, then you know that it's something else. Just so you know, do not hang any other immobiliser chip equipped car keys on the same fob as the ML's keys. It's also not a good idea to have a big bundle of keys attached to the ML's key fob.
I haven't heard that problem about the Skyview deflector, but perhaps you may want to try some silicon spray.
Most important thing is to demonstrate both of these problems to your MB service technician or shop foreman. That way they will know what is happening and will be able to properly diagnose/fix it. I know that intermittent problems can be very annoying.
Good luck,
Drew
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Are all the connections tight?
Gas gauge - On Friday I actually read the sticker MB puts on the fuel cap and it says to turn it until it clicks 3 times. Maybe they actually mean it here.
Loaners - My dealer gives 'C's and at least one 'ML' if you reserve in advance. I've found they relax that rule when you bring your ML back a second time because they did not fix something they said they would the first time.
Reliability - Once they did fix everything the only problems seems to be the odd rattles, most of which are intermitten depending on the road.
Lexus - I don't deny their average reliability may be better than MB's, but if you read enough of their bulletin boards you find their cars aren't perfect either (my favorite was one that burst into flames). Regardless of that, the RX is not 'Lexus quiet' and I didn't enjoy driving it. Its very nice transportation but not a 'drivers' car.
Yes, if you don't do this, the check engine light will be on for a few fillups. It has to be a tight seal or it won't meet regulations. Cars after 1998 have this feature as well.
Drew
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