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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    ML's (not sure on the model year range) have had a recall on a hose clamp in the power steering system. This is likely your problem, and MB should fix it even if
    out of warranty. Alternatively, our 2000 ML320 just had a hose failure on a cold morning (about 20 F), and that hose cost about $50/part and $50/labor at a non-dealer shop.
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    Probably what you are hearing is the popping/snapping sound coming from the shims from the torsion bars, this is a result of dirt and rust gathered in this area, no big deal will not hurt anything but is annoying. After the car wash is goes away because the water present is acting a a very temporary lubrication.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    You have to pull the access panel that surrounds the brake pedal arm.... this really is about a 15 minute fix.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    Go to :
    www.mercedesshop.com

    Struts all the way around shipped to your door will be about $400; any good idenpendent shop should be able to install for $80 an anxle and then ake to the dealer for an aligment for about the $230; no other shop will have the right tools to due a correct alignment.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    You received crappy advice, all four wheels are can be adjusted. You have to take the ML to a dealer for an aligment, most is not all indy shops do not have the proper tools or knowlege for this service.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    When installing new breaks the dealers are suppose to use an anti-squeal kit which is a packet of "molly-lube" lubricant apply to the various components associated with the install. Ask the dealer if this was done and if the answer is yes, ask them where is the part listing on the invoice if it is not there, then let them do it again.

    -Kevin
  • kficeman1kficeman1 Member Posts: 12
    This is a recall item, have the dealer check your VIN# and see if the service was performed.

    -Kevin
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Member Posts: 8
    I had a PS hose pop off the other day also. It was the return hose coming from the radiator connection. Loosen the clamp, shove the hose back on & retighten. Refill the PS resavoir while tutning the steering wheel back & forth to purge the air out. May take several refillings.
  • mwithoutmwithout Member Posts: 5
    I added some Dextron 1103 ATF to it and it made a grinding sound when I started up the engine, so I drained some fluid off, based on what I saw on the dipstick according to temperature now it has a grinding sound when I turn the steering wheel. But quiet when it is idle. So does it have too much or not enough fluid?
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Member Posts: 8
    I added some Dextron 1103 ATF to it and it made a grinding sound when I started up the engine, so I drained some fluid off, based on what I saw on the dipstick according to temperature now it has a grinding sound when I turn the steering wheel. But quiet when it is idle. So does it have too much or not enough fluid?)

    Get power steering fluid for it. Then you'll need to drain the ATF. Fill with fluid and work the steering wheel back and forth to purge the air out. Refill the resevoir as needed. When the air is gone & the fluid is full the gringing sound will stop.
  • mwithoutmwithout Member Posts: 5
    pkunk1, I saw an earlier post of yours suggesting that I work the steering wheel back and forth. I have done that today after letting the engine warm up to normal operating temp and then added fluid as needed.

    My MB Operators Manual specifically listed Dextron 1103 ATF and to verify this, I called a service rep and yes he says that is what is used.....he had no idea why MB uses ATF versus power steering fluid.
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Member Posts: 8
    I'll stand corrected. I never looked at my manual!
    So, all is well with your steering now?
  • mwithoutmwithout Member Posts: 5
    Yes, it seems to functioning fine now. No noise and is steering smoothly.

    So, just so I know, do you have Mclass 320 and does your manual specifiy ATF?
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Member Posts: 8
    2000 ML320 & my book calls for MB power steering fluid. Power steering fluid is power steering fluid, & other than color there is probably only additive differences between it and ATF. What I lost was not pink like Dextron ATF.
  • mwithoutmwithout Member Posts: 5
    Hmm, interesting point, my power steering fluid wasn't pink either.
  • jabiru1jabiru1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm having the same problem with my 2001 ML320. It died on me twice, wouldn't start again, but was OK after 20 minutes. Came home from town (about 80 ks') and would not start again. Did you find out what the problem was?
    Thanks.
  • jabiru1jabiru1 Member Posts: 2
    My car has 130,000 Ks' on the clock and has given me no trouble up until a month ago. Having travelled 3,000 kilometres from Cairns to Sydney ( Australia) I noticed a couple of misses in the motor on the trip. Thinking it was dirty petrol I refilled at the next Gas Station with top grade fuel 98 always used, the rest of the journey was OK. The following week whilst driving to the mountains the BAS/ESP light came on the Instrument panel.Getting to our destination we parked the car and when we were ready to leave and started the engine,I could not get the gear lever out of Park. Yes I had my foot on the brake! Having called the Roadside Patrol he stated it was an electrical fault, no stoplights, but could not rectify the problem.
    We released the parking lock by inserting a pencil into the opening behing the flap below the D position on the gear indicator and pressed down.Lucky I had my manual with me or I might still be there now.The problem was fixed by a top Auto Electrician who new the answer by saying ,you need a new stoplight switch.Cost all up $80.00.Mercedes Benz reckoned it was a damaged nut under the gear lever All up cost $1900.00
    My problem now is that the vehicle will run for about 60-70 ks' and cut out completely. a not pleasant experience if you are overtaking someone at 100 kilometres an hour.The motor will not start. If left for 20 minutes starting is as normal.I will get Mercedes Benz Service dept. to put it on the computer check but would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this.
    Thank You Jabiru1
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    This came up after an oil change at a trusted garage. The truck has 125,000 miles.

    Coming off the line, if I accellerate slowly, there is no problem. If I accellerate with slighly more juice I hear and feel a slight "crump" (similar to running over a soda can) within the first half-revolution of my wheels, and then all is normal. If I accellerate with lots of juice, then I get the same "crump". Comes from the front of the truck.

    I do not get a crump in reverse.

    This has gone on for three months without any sign of worsening, or self-repairing.
    I've looked at the edmunds boards with no luck.

    Thanks in advance.
  • erwin5werwin5w Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 2002 Mercedes ML320. I've just shipped my SUV from San Francisco to New York City. It appears that as I am driving down the street, I hear some noise but it's like putting a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle but more like a metal knock and you can hear it. Anyway, when I had the car on the rack, we noticed that a long cable was hanging along the side of the crank shaft. What is that cable and do you believe that the transportation broke something that was holding that cable in place. How should this be fixed? Any help is appreciated. It's really cold out here in New York City.

    Sincerely,
    Erwin
  • deborahndeborahn Member Posts: 4
    We have a 2000 Mercedes SUV. While the car is running, it will die for no apparent reason. Then it will crank over, but will not start. There is no fuel pressure and no voltage at the fuel pump relay. After about 1/2 hr or more it will start.
  • fmfc1fmfc1 Member Posts: 4
    There are 2 likely causes. The first is the module box blower were the ME control and fuse box are located. This can be checked by removing the motor and switching on the key, it should run. It could be a crankshaft position sensor that is going open when it gets hot. A scan tool hooked to the truck would not show any rpm while cranking when the sensor is open. When the blower stops working it causes the ME to overheat and cause it to shut down.
  • kandygirlkandygirl Member Posts: 4
    I was looking at a "new to me" ML320, but the mileage is what scares me. It has 132K miles on it and I know repairs will dent my pocket if things start to go wrong. They are willing to sell it to me with a 1 yr/12K mile bumper to bumper warranty. I have heard mixed reviews on the truck and I just don't want it to die on me.

    I have heard that a mercedes isn't "broken in" until after 50K and that I will die before it does and that mileage doesn't apply to mercedes and BMW. Heard this from the dealer and other owners.

    Question is: Will I be investing in a MAJOR problem based on the mileage? :confuse:
  • lynnejacob2001lynnejacob2001 Member Posts: 9
    I have '98 with 208K miles on it. I couldn't be happier with the vehicle. Other then standard maintenance, we haven't had any issues with the truck. I realize that not everyone has such a positive view, but I think it's a great vehicle.
  • ccweemsccweems Member Posts: 33
    Most likely the brake switch (long known for problems) or transmission interlock switch. It is the electrics which are keeping the starter quiet.
  • ccweemsccweems Member Posts: 33
    I think you mean driveshaft and yes there cables to be messed with by a transport driver. They throw chains over the axle and can screw up all sorts of things. My guess is the emergency brake cable. If it doesn't work you have found it. A nice long road trip may prove to be a cheaper alternative.
  • lugolugo Member Posts: 1
    I am also considering to purchase a '98 ML 320 with 125,000 miles. I realllly like the car but the miles scare me as well.
  • artisteartiste Member Posts: 1
    The ignition will start and turn over but the car dies right away. I am very low on gas. I thought this was the problem and put an additional 2 gallons in but the problem persists. The fuel pump was replaced in 2006. I am wondering if the fuel filter is clogged or I have a fuel pump problem. It is in the garage and wondering if I need to have it towed or is there something we can check out. Your assistance is appreciated.
  • hollobonhollobon Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the location in the fusebox of the fuse for the rear power outlet, the one by the rear tailgate?

    A. Hollobon
  • mbzfan06mbzfan06 Member Posts: 15
    If you let fuel level get too close to empty, you will burn up the fuel pump.... it will turn to toast in an instant because it relies on the fuel for lubrication....

    you have every symptom of a shot pump. :cry: never let your fuel get below the 1/8 level
  • nyml55nyml55 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 ML55....for some reasons my rear passenger side door lock is jam! It won't lock automaticly or manually(it anoying when it come to a slow speed,the door try to automatic set the lock) anyways have anyone ever took the paneling off the door?.. someone told me there is 2 clips at the rearend of the door, any other clips?. Any help would be highly appreciated!...
  • mercado3mercado3 Member Posts: 1
    I know what you mean. I was looking at the ML500 2003. The price is right but I wanted to know when problems tend to happen at a particular mileage point. I cannot afford to be riding cute and have my truck blow up. Also, I have heard that they only get between 21-25 miles to the gallon. If anyone knows differently, please let me know. I am interested in the truck but I don't want any other issues other than normal wear & tear!
  • deborahndeborahn Member Posts: 4
    After my initial post, we replaced the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor and the car was finally fixed!

    What we did: We invested in a code reader (bought it at Checkers for $129 with a $30 rebate). The reader showed codes which pointed to the Crandkshaft Positioning Sensor which cause the misfire codes, etc. and in turn turned the computer/engine off. Buying the code reader was well worth it the investment!
  • awrhodyawrhody Member Posts: 1
    My ML is due for its schedule C service: Does anyone know the approximate cost of this and can it be done by a certified independent MB mechanic without voiding the warranty?
  • bobbi_digitalibobbi_digitali Member Posts: 1
    My apologies, i seem to be in the wrong thread, my question is pretty general as far as Maintenence, dis reguard the model mentioned below, thanks.

    Hello all, im looking for a newer car. I have been eyeing the 2000 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML320, i have seen quite a few with what looks like an incredibly low price, Prices ranging from $8000 to $12000.

    I absolutely love the look of this vehicle, but i have no idea how to go about looking for one used.

    Before asking anything specific about this vehicle post what my main concern is first off.

    Main concern, will i be able to keep up the maintenance on this vehicle given my current Earnings. I earn roughly 38000 a year and live alone, if i had to guess how much money will be on hand for normal wear and tear i would have to say approximately 2000 - 4000 a year.

    Is it possible for me to keep up with that amount, i love this vehicle, but if keeping it in excellent running condition means i will likely be spending alot more i may have to reconsider.

    This is all for now as depending on the answer i may not need to bug you guys much more.

    Thanks in advance, any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    It is a rainy Sat. morning, and I occasionally read these threads, so here's my response to you bobbi digitali:
    1) See if you can buy an extended service contract whether from the dealer
    or online. If you buy it online, that won't kick in for 30 days and 1,000 miles.
    2) My rule of thumb is for every 1,000 miles that you drive expect to spend
    $ 100 for routine upkeep and repairs on this or any other moderate luxury/premium type vehicle. The service and upkeep on this should be cheaper than on the Porsche SUV.
    3) If the one you're buying has Dunlop tires (which were standard on mine), buy
    a new set of some other brand with a UTQG rating of over 500. The Dunlop tires
    get only about 20,000 to 30,000 miles. You also must buy the exact same tire
    for all 4 tires so you can't mix brands such as Goodyear with Michelin because
    of the AWD. It has to be the same brand, the same tire.
    4) Brakes seem to wear fast. Dealer recommends that rotors always be replaced.
    An independent shop told me "mostly yes, but not always" on rotors. Brakes are not covered on extended service plans.
    5) Oil changes: Fortunately, only every 10,500 miles. Simple oil change at MB
    dealer is about $ 200, major oil change next 10.5K miles from MB dealer is about $400. Why so high? The MB dealer checks everything plus using Mobil1 synthetic for I think between 7 and 8 quarts. I got a quote from an independent dealer about 20% to 25% less, so I'll probably try the independent next time, since I'm out of regular warranty.
    6) I have avoided 2 possible accidents since I've had my ML350 that I would not
    have been able to avoid with my prior SUV vehicle. 2 separate people pulled out on
    me from a side street when I had the right of way on the same stretch of highway
    and I was able to take evasive action to avoid a collision (On one I had to cross
    the center line to avoid an elderly woman driving a van who was making a left hand turn but she was blocking oncoming traffic).
    7) I don't know where you live but (assuming that you have the right set of tires)
    these MLs are great in snow. If I lived in the South, I likely would not buy an ML
    nor any other 4 WD/allwheel drive/SUV, with the price of gas what it is today.
    8) The power steering hose has a tendency to "pop out". It happened to me
    once while backing out of the driveway and was covered under original warranty.
    9) MLs are great for long highway trips.
    10) I do have some other mechanical issues with my ML, which my extended
    service plan mostly covered.

    Hope this helps you. I suspect that like other SUVs that there are some real bargains now available if you shop around such as the Edmunds used vehicles list.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    They are telling you utter nonsense. I have two 80's Mercedes diesel sedans (85 300D and 83 300SD) which are considered by many to be the most durable cars ever built. However, just like any other car, they require maintenance as time goes on. Rubber parts in the suspension crack and wear out, timing chains stretch, rubber hoses deteriorate, plastic clips disintegrate, ac. compressors and vacuum actuators wear out. These cars may last a long time but they will not do so without investing money in repairs and maintenance. Same holds for the ML class or any other Benz cars. Even more so, because new vehicles have a lot of electronic components.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I was looking at a used ML 350 with about 34k miles on the clock. It drove fine, except when the engine was cold, it stumbled several times (RPMs went down) as I stopped at an intersection). The engine subsequently recovered, but for a moment it seemed like it was going to stall. The fuel level in the vehicle was very low at the time. Is this stumbling normal for a cold engine? It did not do it after warming up.

    Does this vehicle have a 5 speed transmission? What would be a fair price for this vehicle in excellent condition? I just saw one similar to this one sold on eBAy for $ 15,400 with even lower mileage. I am not sure what features were optional on this model, but this one has navigation, sunroof, leather seats, and heated power seats,
  • zxedzxed Member Posts: 18
    I actually have an 03 ml 350, the rough idle you described id because the person used a lower than premium grade gas., trying to save a few $$'s....

    i am also selling mine :) $15k.... i live 1.5 miles away from work, but it has 67k ., dont need it anymore.,

    you have to be carefull when shopping and comparing prices.... benz is known for its packages., so while 2 identical benz will be selling for $1-2k appart., check the options., for example i had a buyer call me claiming that he could get the SAME car for $13k., so i said go ahead., bring it to me and ill give you $500 if we have the same options...

    his did not have dual power seats, nor did it have teleaid, it was teleaid "ready"... it also did not have the little thingy near the rear view mirror that tells you how much mpg you are getting or how many miles you have before you go empty., nor did his side mirror turn down when he put it in reverse... couple of other things that i cant remember.... and oh., it had an obvious cover up paint job :) to either make it look newer or to hide damage...

    all in all., its a great car,. maintenance isnt to bad., ill be replacing a window regulator this weekend (myself)

    it has power,. it responds when you hit the accelerator., its a beast of a suv.,
  • zxedzxed Member Posts: 18
    not sure if you already bought your benz., but...
    "2000 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML320, i have seen quite a few with what looks like an incredibly low price, Prices ranging from $8000 to $12000"

    if thats the price range you are looking at., then dont get a 200 ml320,. get a 2003+ ml350., the 320 is under powered, ., you can get a 350 for $1000 more than a 320!
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    My 04 ran a little rough this morning at the first traffic light about one-half
    mile away from home. While stopped at the light, I shifted it back
    to park, revved it a litte, and then back to drive. It ran normal the rest of the
    day. The fuel level was between 1/4th and 1/2 of the tank. I've always used premium since I've had it.

    Yes. I think the 06s went to the 7 speed.

    Prices are a little tricky. For example, check out the ML 350s priced in
    the Chicago area with between 35K to 50K miles. Their retail asking prices
    vary from $ 15,000 to $ 21,000 at dealers (obviously if certified at a MB dealer
    they're higher). $ 6,000 is a large differential when it should be more like $ 1,000
    to $ 2,000 apart for this vehicle regardless of options.

    Navigation was optional on the ML 350 and standard on the ML 500.
    Running boards were optional. 3rd row fold down seats were optional.

    I've tried to be objective and hope that this is helpful.

    Also bear in mind that some dealers employees strip "small" stuff out of
    these vehicles. When I got mine used there were no floor mats, the mercedes
    shifter ball with emblem was gone, even the first aid kit was gone and the salesman
    took his CD placement holder from his demo and put his in my vehicle as mine
    was also missing. The gas tank holds just over 22 gallons so try to get the
    seller to fill that although you may only get a $ 20 gas card (Mine was $ 10
    gas card but that was the good old days when premium was $ 2.29 a gallon).
    Also, try to get both keys. The dealership had to go on a hunt for the second
    key which took about a half-hour extra til they found it. Lastly, this has a space
    save spare underneath the back. Some dealers also hijack the space saver
    so bring a drop cloth with to get underneath to make sure that it's there.
  • alex_russoalex_russo Member Posts: 1
    I currently have the Pirelli but the dealer recommended the Dunlop....comments,suggestions ??

    Also- what are the advantages of getting 4 tires at the dealer Vs. Big `O` tires ,etc..

    Thanks in advance for your input,

    Alex
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    Very timely question. Dunlop tires on MLs have no mileage warranty.
    Mine lasted 25000 to 27000 miles, and I had several blowouts in
    2 or 3 of those tires so the Dunlops on the vehicle weren't all in the
    same shape. Two were still good, 1 was OK but starting to go and the
    last was completely shot.

    Last week, I finally decided to get all 4 Dunlops replaced with
    Continental Cross Contact LX. These have a 680 TQ rating
    with 65K warranty. These cost about $ 800 for everything with install,
    replacement certificates, taxes and balancing (before modest trade-in
    discount on the remaining good Dunlop tires). But, these Continental
    tires should last 5 or 6 years (and hopefully no more blowouts).
    Continental is running a GPS Navigation unit promotion through 11/02/08
    so I'll also be getting a Navigation system in the mail for buying the 4 tires.

    Buying tires at the dealership means that you'll likely pay more
    than at every tire store. My tires were purchased from Discount Tires
    but Tire Rack may also be feasible for you.
  • deborahndeborahn Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 Chev Astro van. It acted by it was running out of gas the other day, I pulled over, it didn't die. I took gas cap off, put it back on and vehicle ran fine for about 70-80 more miles! Got it home okay. The next day, the vehicle started okay. I had decided to change the fuel filter just in case. After changing it, the vehicle would not start. The fuel pump is not pumping fuel and the vehicle won't start now. I can pour fuel into the throttle body and it will start, but won't stay running because it is not pumping fuel. Does anyone have a clue what is going on?
  • koriarroyokoriarroyo Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,
    I purchased the 2005 ML350 special Edition on Aug. 16, 2008. It is a certified vehicle, however, MB was suppose to complete a 60 point inspection before they put the car up for sale. According to a carfax report, nothing was ever check out from the last person who turned the car in from their lease. I have had nothing but one problem after another. Within the first week, the oil light went on as if I needed an oil change. Like I said before, this should have been done already. I brought it to the dealership and they made me pay $117 for an oil change.

    A week later, the oil light went on again but suddenly turned off. About a month later, it turned back on so I took it back in. The oil was already low and needed another quart to be added. Then there was a loud groining noise coming from the engine. I took the car in and as it turns out, my steering fluid was never replaced and it was bone dry, therefore, the steering pump broke and needed to be replaced. The torsion bars under the car were also busted and needed to be replaced. The electricl inside the gages was bad as well. The lights went out.

    Shortly after, my door locks quit locking and the windows refused to roll up. The motor for both was broken and needed to be replaced. As you can see, I have a huge headache with this vehicle and I am even more unsatisfied with the dealership where I purchased it.
  • georgerocketgeorgerocket Member Posts: 2
    The cost of a repair for this item on a 2000 ML is $7500. It comes as one part. Although roof electrical is still working, two dealers have told me that they cannot replace a part, It comes in one piece. You have to buy the whole roof. The part costs $6500. I am the original owner, have another Mercedes but was going to turn this in. It is a 2000 with Navigation, heated seats, cd changer, metallic paint, etc. The buy out on the car is $9700. It has 73K miles on it. Mercedes Financial wants to charge me for the repair of the roof as it is not under warrranty. So a warning to anyone out of there that is looking for this car, the roof is worth almost as much as the car..
  • 0435004350 Member Posts: 26
    It sounds like the selling MB dealer didn't bother to do a thorough job or completely
    skipped the actual MB certification. I would get everything checked over by another competent MB dealer, even if it costs you $ 500 more, ascertain what else is wrong and not within normal readings and get it fixed before the original 4 yrs 50K warranty runs out and also before the one year certified coverage runs out. If it will take more than a day for repairs, ask for a loaner. MB certified vehicles typically
    cost about $ 2,000 to $ 4,000 more than comparable mileage non-certified
    identical models. You paid for the extra reliability.

    You didn't say what your mileage reading, was but since it is a very expensive
    part to repair, it might also be worth having the transmission checked, if you
    are over 40K.

    45 days before the regular warranty runs out, think about getting an extended service plan if you're going to keep it for at least 3 or 4 yrs. I've already saved more money than it would have cost me for my out-of-warranty work than without the extended coverage.
  • rennmanrennman Member Posts: 3
    I recently bought a used ML500 and as a DIYer, I like to perform all of my routine maintenance. I have Bentley's excellent manuals for my Porsche 911 and BMW 325ci and nothing exists of this sort for the ML.

    Can anyone suggest a name and source for such a manual?

    Thanks,

    Rennman
  • koriarroyokoriarroyo Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I got all of the problems fixed. I did purchase a two year extended warranty on top of the one year certified warranty, so I am covered for the next 3 years. Luckily I havent had any problems in the last month or so.
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