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Replacing Tires

gusgus Posts: 254
A continuation of Welcome Conference Topic #323.
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  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    OK, no one posts here. So I'll be the first woohoo. Anyway, in case anyone sees this message, help me out. I upgraded my tires from 205/60r16 to 215/45ZR17 on my Solara. The old cold tire pressure is 32psi. What should I put for the new tires? The same psi or higher??
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Boy, that is a great question. I would call the manufacturer and see if they have a recommendation. After all, the tire pressure should be set to match the characteristics of the car. If they don't have a recommendation, that being an extremely aggressive tire for that car and all, I would contact a Toyota enthusiast group. Probably only someone who has made a similar switch will have recommendations on what works best. I'm really curious, why the switch to those tires?
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    Lower profile tires are more stable, lower sidewall has a better grip to the road. Plus is wider, and a new look on the wheel. According to the sticker beside the door frame, the original 195/65r15 has the tire pressure of 29psi. The next upgrade is 205/60r16, which I replaced had the pressure of 32psi. So now I have the 215/45ZR17 so I set it at 35psi. Don't know if that's too much or not. The guy at the tire store told me to set it between 35-40psi depends on how you feel about the ride. The max pressure the tire can handle is at 44psi. So just want other ppl's opinions.

    Hey I didn't know you own a Acura CL, guitarzan. I was going to get that but it's just a bit slow and pricy. I was going to get the Accord coupe EXV6 but they were out of stock. So i bought the Solara instead. I love it very much. How's the CL doing??
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    Doh, I meant small and pricy guitarzan, your car is actually a bit faster than mine until I got my supercharger from TRD in June, then I can hall [non-permissible content removed]!:) Did u get the 2.2 or the 3.0CL??
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    The Cl is doing very poorly :( Yesterday I noticed a few cracks in the front spoiler. I'm pretty sure they were gotten by nailing some chunks of ice in the road during our severe weather.

    I knew there was more to this story! Supercharger, eh? That would be GREAT for the CL. I got the 2.3, because I refuse to drive an auto :)

    What did the charger cost? (I figure a similar one might work on my car.)
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    The supercharger from TRD (Toyota Racing Development) is going to be about $2995. 5 years/60,000miles warranty if installed by the Toyota dealer. Don't think it would work on yours. It's for V6 3.0 Toyota engine only :( YOu could probably get one from the aftermarket.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Re: previous posts on inflation....nope, you don't go by what it says on the tire itself! that's way too much air! You're already running a little more risk with low profiles on possible road hazard damage, and making them too hard wouldn't help that situation, seems to me.
  • bjmeyerbjmeyer Posts: 24
    Oh, would that there were a simple answer to this question. The tire pressure manufacturers recommend is a compromise between ride, handling and braking, speed capability, and tread life. Lower pressure (within a certain range) will give a softer ride, but generally poorer handling and braking. Also, a softer tire flexes more, so gets hotter, which increases wear and affects safety at high speed. Also, given the very low profile of your new tires, too low a tire pressure could be asking for rim damage if you hit a pothole or such. You don't want those sidewalls to flex too much.

    Higher pressure gives a harder ride, generally better handling and braking, and less flex, so less heat buildup.

    TOO high or low, of course, will drastically affect tread life because only a part of the tire will contact the road fully. Too high a pressure will cause rapid wear in the center, too low a pressure will wear out the edges.

    Racers use something called a tire pyrometer. It measures tread temperature. You take readings across the width of the tread, and adjust tire pressures so that temperatures are even across the tire. (This is a basic rule--there are exceptions, of course).

    I'd guess that as long as you don't go below 32psi you're probably ok. If you don't mind the stiffer ride, 34-35 will probably give you a little better handling and braking. Since you probably don't have access to a pyrometer, get a tread depth gauge, and monitor tread wear at the center and edges. If the tire seems to be wearing faster in one place, adjust pressures accordingly.

    HTH,

    Bob
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Bob, I'm only guessing that a daily driver has a consistent temperature across the tread (at a given pressure), because the force exerted across it is pretty much the same. Is this wrong?
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    Thanks for responding Bob and Mr_shiftright. That's a great info there. Apparently I have it set at 39psi now and the car has lesser vibration than before (35psi, plus multiple balances on tires.) Hopefully it would be okay. I have them balanced the tires for the third times this week becuz of that light vibration from the steering wheel,break and gas pedal. Everytime I went back there the wheel was unbalanced again. Don't know why. Kinda pain in the [non-permissible content removed] now for all this wheel change scenario...
  • mt1mt1 Posts: 4
    I have tires on my car that are 175/65 r14. How is that different from say 205/70 r14 or r15?
    Thanks in advance.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    The 175 is the width of the tread, in mm I believe. The second number, 65, means the sidewall height is 65% of the tread width. The r14 means a radius of 14", or that it fits on a size 14 wheel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    the tires could be defective...unusual but it happens...they aren't quite round and no amount of balancing is going to fix them...if all else fails, you can have that checked.
  • No, depending on the tire pressure the temperature can vary quite a bit across the tread. The catch is you have to measure imediately after completing a drive under the conditions being tested, or the temperature will even out.

    Temp varies for the same reason over or underinlating a tire affects the wear pattern. If the tire pressure is too low, the center of the tread actually "collapses" to a degree while driving, so that part of the tread makes little contact with the road. Over time, you see this as rapid wear of the outside edges of the tread compared to the center.

    If the pressure is too high, the reverse happens. The center of the tread actually "bulges," so the edges of the tread aren't in good contact with the road. Over time you see this as excessive wear i the center of the tread.

    It's true that on a street tire, minor changes in pressure probably won't have much effect on tread temperature, but it will occur. It may also be true that steel belted radials will be less affected by overpressure than other types, but I don't know that for a fact.

    One interesting aside: There are now remote, infrared sensing tire pyrometers that can be mounted in the fender wells of a car to measure tread temperature in real time, while the car is being driven. I don't know if they are sensitive enough to detect differences across the tread, or only average temperature. I am, however, certain that they are very expensive.
  • guitarzan:

    Is the width measurement the width of the tread, or the section width. That is, the width at the widest part of the tire? Probably not a significant difference, in either case.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Thanks BJ for the interesting info.

    I'm sorry about my post, and glad you corrected me. The first number on the tire is the section width like BJ said.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Ah, should have done this quick search before to give the whole truth in a nice format:

    http://www.tires.com/discount_readsidewall.html
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Nice link, thanks guitarzan!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Here's a handy definition list:

    example: P185/75R14

    P - passenger car tire, can also be LT for light truck, T for temporary.

    185 - section width in millimeters. measured from the widest point of an unladen tire (as opposed to the bulge width of a loaded tire)

    75 - aspect ratio - the section height of the tire divided by the section width. Section height is generally recognized as the distance from the bead to the outside point.

    R - radial construction. Can also be B for bias-ply

    14 - whell diameter in inches

    after the diameter, some tires will also show a load rating. P-tires are generally expressed as SL (standard load) or XL (extra load). LT-tires usually have the load rating expressed in a letter; each letter represents in its numeric form 2 tread plies per letter. Example: B is 4 ply, E is 10 ply.
  • Recently, I purchased a 92 Q45 with new Viper Tires. Well, they have separation ie defective. I had them spun and aligned and found that the tires are out of round and I have a very bad vibration that is getting worse. I am trying to locate who sells these tires or possibly contact the manufacturer. Any information will help. Thanks.
  • I have a 97 Prelude SH and am soon to be on my third set of tires. I have noticed that the back tires seem to be wearing faster than the fronts (enough to be noticeable). They are rotated regularly.

    Any thoughts on why the back tires would wear faster on a FWD car? I've always experienced it the other way around. Would the suspension have anything to do with it?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Your rear tires may not be aimed straight ahead. Have your rear thrust angle checked by a shop that specializes in 4 wheel alignments.
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    How is your driving style Chris_w?? Sometimes that has something to do with your tires wearing out so fast. Hehe, my friend has the Prelude SH and he loves to show ppl how ATTS works when turning. That wears out his tires pretty fast I guess. Just a thought..have the mech check the alignment out or check your tire pressure.
  • I have a 94 Audi 90s. I just bought 4 new Michelin MXV4 tires, had them balanced and installed. The old tires were worn in the back inside edges (scalloped). When driving about 30-40mph, if I roll down the passenger side rear window, I hear a faint "pattering" sound that gets more rapid as I accelerate. I brought the car to an Audi dealer and had them check all the wheels to make sure they weren't bent. Also, they re-balcanced all 4. I'm still hearing the noise. Could something else be bent? I asked if an alignment would resolve the problem and they said no. Any thoughts? Thanks
  • pomanpoman Posts: 46
    Mikeconnelly, maybe you should let other techs take a look at it. Maybe the local tire stores instead. Maybe you should check inside wheelwell and see if there's any fender pieces flapping against the tire or scrubbing it.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 331
    mikeconnelly. I just had a rear wheel bearing replaced (at 100 000 miles, so I can't complain too much) and it was the apparent cause of a rhythmic "whump, whump, whump" sound I had coming from the rear. I suspect this packed bearing had been getting progressively worse and progressively louder, it's had such a rhythmic noise from about 50 000 miles onwards. The inside of the car is AMAZINGLY quiet now; but that's the way it is with progressive problems like this, or brake wear, et al..

    The "scalloping" of your rear tires does indicate excessive ( I believe the right term is:) camber. That is, due to wear the rear tires are "splayed out" and shims (probably) are required to correct this.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 331
    FYI to my fellow Canuck participants.

    www.canadatire.com

    This is the website for a Canadian mail order house for tires. They also have retail locations in Montreal, Ottawa and Toronto. I haven't used their services yet, but I am looking at making the switch to studded winter tires or rims next year.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    There are a lot of reasons for excessive tire wear, but two big culprits always seem to be a) 4-wheel alignment and b)improper air pressure. If it were a balance problem bad enough to cause weird tire wear, you'd certainly feel that vibration in the car...and the likelihood of two rear rims being bent that badly isn't very high...and another cause of tire wear, excessively worn shocks and springs, doesn't seem likely on a '94 car. Last of all, you could just have noisy tires...some are like that.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Also, your tire store should have a load guide for inflation pressures and tire sizes. Back reference the old size and the pressure, then cross reference the corresponding weight to the new tire size and you should get the correct pressure.

    Example. If OriginalTire uses 27 psi, then it's supporting XXX pounds. Thus to support XXX pounds, NewTire should be at YY psi.
  • rporterrporter Posts: 2
    Anybody ever heard of Regul Questa tires? I got them on a 3-year-old Maxima I just bought and there seems to be excessive vibration at about 70 mph? Got any ideas? I'm thinking I should replace them -- what with?
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 331
    rporter, Regul Questa sounds "off-brand" to me. If you need/want an all-season radial, the Michelin MXV4 seem to be quite good in terms of noise, snow performance and overall braking and handling.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 331
    FYI. Look to www.tirerack.com for tire reviews.
  • howhohowho Posts: 77
    i am replacing the tires on my BMW 750il. i bought the car used, and they came with pirelli
    p600's 225 x 60 r15 (zr rated) in the back, and kelly 225 x 60 r 15's in front (turns out one is HR rated andthe other is VR rated).

    sounds like i have a major handling / safety problem if i stick with the current combo. i am looking more for tires that last long (at least 70,000 miles or so) with reasonable performance.

    any suggestions between michelin, dunlop, yokohama, continental etc. (brands and models) or should i stick with the pirelli's (they are awful in winter). thanks
  • rdeschenerdeschene Posts: 331
    howho. Consumer Reports rated the Michelin MXV4 highly, for all-season radials. Given that you have a rear-wheel drive car, it might actually be worthwhile having "true" snow tires (e.g. Michelin Arctic Alpins) on their own set of wheels. Just a thought.

    I and others have found that a full tank of gas and a couple of bags of kitty litter at the far rear of the car keeps the rear more firmly planted to the ground. I drive a FWD car, but still do this as I like/want predicatibility and control.

    You could always get the MXV4's, and see how the winter goes. Then, only if necessary, you get a set of snows fitted. Again, just a thought.
  • howhohowho Posts: 77
    hi rdeschne. thanks for the info. actually, i should have thought of this myself as i drive a honda prelude in winter - when i first got it it was also awful in winter (it had michelin MXV3's), however, what a difference changing over to four snow tires (continentals)!

    i'm going to try the kitty litter technique as well. i understand that kitty litter is also great at picking up oil stains on the garage floor (someone told me that if it was made of clay granules, it should make for one hell of an industrial absorbent).
  • loamsloams Posts: 8
    does anyone have any thoughts on the new uniroyal "nail guard tires"? They are suppossed to seal anything up to 3/16, utilizing a tar like compound inside the tire under the thread but for larger punctures can they be repaired?, using a plug?
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    kcram:

    I am looking to exchange my current 15" wheels on my 1998 Integra GS-R for larger 17's with better tires.

    In the Posts above there is a formula for making such a change to maintain speedometer aspect ration. However, the formula uses a number, "12.7 (<--1/2 Inch in MM)" which is not defined.

    My question is, is the "12.7" a constant or a variable?
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    Make that, "speedometer aspect ratio."
  • pblevinepblevine Posts: 858
    Does anyone know where I can lookup reviews of different tires? I'm interested in the Dunlop SP Sport 9000 series tires.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    pblevine.
    See the Tirerack link referenced above. They may have that tire. They update often.
  • pblevinepblevine Posts: 858
    akjbmw,
    Thanks for the site info, tirerack has done their job well. And yes, they did review the Dunlop 9000 series. Although no direct comparison was made, the Dunlop 9000 series looks very good.
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    Browns,
    Might be a problem with something other than the tires. Try this little test. Push down on the bumper of your van. If the car keeps bouncing up & down & up & down, its your shocks (which sounds like it might be your problem.) However, shacks and tires are both supposed to outlast 6K miles. That might just be the way your van handles. Suspension tweaks could be the best solution.
  • I don't have a fun or fast vehicle like some of you guys, but I still have a question: I have a full sized Chevy Van and am now beginning to pull a recently acquired 7,500 LBS RV Travel Trailer. I have been using a Multi-Mile Grand AM Radial 235 x 70 15 tire.

    I like the tire because they really seem to have good sidewall stability for the big van (I've used them for years), and they work well with the travel trailer. I just went to this trailer from a 5,300 LBS unit, and am considering going to a slightly larger size, 255 x 70 15 for a little more ground clearance and additional width on the ground. I have begun wondering if this tire will handle the added "hitch" weight, which also went from ~ 600 LBS to 1,000 LBS. I've pulled it about 2,000 miles so far and seems ok, but am taking a 7,000 mile trip across country next spring. I tried to find a Multi-mile web site, but no luck..

    Thoughts.....Thanks, John
  • What's the general feeling out there on the value of using snows? I use Cooper Weathermasters, with Studs, on my Ford Ranger. I really feel like they make a difference during the sometimes harsh New England Winters. Any comments, suggestions, opinions? Should I try a set on my new Honda Civic hatchback this winter, or stick with the factory installed all weather tires?
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Igloomaster, I think it's great that you use the ultimate tire, studded, to protect yourself during the winter. More people should do just that.

    Years ago, my favorite manager at Wholesale Tire in Cleveland told me this: All Weather tires are not made for snow. You need snow tires to protect yourself. I wholeheartedly agree.

    I drive an Integra for 5 years here in Cleveland. The stock Yokahama's slid all around during the winter. Your Civic is a similar car, and I HIGHLY recommend a dedicated set of snow tires.

    One other recommendation I have are the Bridgestone Bliztecs. I had such a horrible experience sliding in the Integra, and these tires are doing a great job on my dad's car. Mom says she can hear them sticking and peeling off of ice patches!


    guitarzan
    Community Leader/Vans Conference
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    did anyone use the new blizzak (mz-02) last year? if so, is it truly better riding than the original? according to tirerack, they do, plus have the best ice traction. however, the arctic alpins (again according to tire rack), have only slightly less ice traction but better dry. i live in new jersey where we primarily get ice and sleet, and torture myself on the new jersey tpk every day, so the ice traction and dry highway ride are more important than driving in a foot of snow (at which point, i stay home anyway).
    btw, tires are for a 95 325iC.
    any opinions?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    jackson,

    A 255/70 is barely taller than a 235/75 (the rolling radius is only a half inch higher), so that will not give you more ground clearance. It will give you a wider contact patch, and that should help reduce a little sway, but I would also recommend some stiffer shocks, and if your van doesn't have them, look into stabilizer bars as well.

    kcram
    Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    way on earlier in this thread, you posted some ly useful formulas for calculating correct change of tire sizes so you don't fake out your computer.
    can you shed some light now on what "wheel offset" might be? and how to measure? thanks.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    This web page does it better than I can :)

    kcram
    Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    thanks. i think i've got it now. good page.
This discussion has been closed.