Hello. I drive (drove?) a '90 Honda Civic DX (5-speed manual transmission). The transmission sadly failed only hours ago. Upon putting the car into reverse and then into first gear, there was an unusual "clunk." From that point on, the car would not shift into any gear (even reverse). The stick and clutch seem to move fine. I do not even feel/hear a hint of engagement when I shift now. The only strange noise that I hear when shifting out of neutral is a mild grinding noise (not too loud). I believe that the grinding is a bit louder when in reverse than in gears 1-5. I will be in touch with a garage tomorrow. I am hoping that someone will be able to provide me with some idea as to what is going before I do so.... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! Lisa
I own a 91 MPV v6 and since it was new the tranny felt like there was a Mac truck under me til it warmed up. Had it since new and have just had it rebuilt at 175k. Can't complain about that. It's had it's quirks but change the fluid about 20-30 miles.I have a manual 79 B210 also. I put SAE30 in it for the winter, shifts great!! Give it a try.
I have a buick skylark AUTO w/ 3sp.when im coming down to first gear and starting to stop it begins a loud thumping sound and when i stop it stalls. then i turn the car on then put it back in drive it stalls again. i have to put it in drive again and peal out to get going again.this only happens when the car is hot.
Hi, My new 2000 Honda Accord LX is hit by the tranmission problem. The last I heard from my dealer is Honda mechanics are changing the transmissions. I wanted to ask you people how serious is it ? Should I press for a new car ? Please let me know. Thanks for your time.
Wow, already?? You may want to also check out our Sedans conference to talk with other recent Accord purchasers - just use the Search feature at left to find topics in progress.
A link to NHTSA has recently been posted in some of our topics as a place to research and file complaints. You might like to check this out as well: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
Good luck!
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
5,000 miles and the "check engine soon" light came on and shortly thereafter, the transmission started slipping all over the place. To make a long story short, we brought it into the closest OLDS dealer and they replaced the "body valve". 2 weeks later, the transmission starts slipping again as if it is not catching the proper gear. Fortunately, the dealer has agreed to replace the entire transmission under warranty. Is it really necessary to replace the entire transmission? I'm not complaining, at least now, we'll probably avoid future problems. Anyone else have similar problems with the Olds Silh. or any other GM minivan with low mileage or can comment on this situation?
Sounds like the clutch is gone-how many miles and what year. Pretty straight forward to fix-do not go to a dealer or a franchise shop-both really pricey-find somebody that specalizes in foreign cars and get a price. Ask around-someone must know a decent repair place. Check car talk's web site for mechanic recommendations.
1993 Olds Silhouette 3.8 V6. The transmission will downshift from overdrive to drive on the highway when under load, which is fine. But the problem is that for the remainder of the trip it will never go back into overdrive. Only if I stop the car and turn off the engine and get back on the highway again. Then it's good until the first time the downshift to drive happens again, and overdrive gear is history. The transmission guy of course said it needs a rebuild (which at 163,300 miles on the original tranny was reasonably possible), so I had him do it. Now I will be taking it back to him, because the rebuild had affect on the problem.
My intuition is that this is caused by a $10 vacuum diaphragm or something. Anyone have any ideas?
I have a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4 by 2. I have been experiencing some transmission slip while in drive from 2nd to 3rd and so on. Most of the mileage (39K) is from highway driving and some towing (U-Haul trailers). The dealer has informed me that the torque converter will have to be rebuilt and then resealed. I'm looking at $1700 to get it fixed. Is this a common problem? What can I do to prevent from happening in future.
Well next week a Dealer is evaluating my Olds van transmission. This will be the #2 trany. The total miles is 24,000. This is still under warranty but will soon be my problem. ( $$$ )As soon as I get it out of the shop I will check on trading it on some thing else. The dealer has been no help at all. Marysville is a small town so I guess I could expect this kind of treatment. ( See previous post )
I took my Silhouette back to the tranny guy and this time he fixed it right (at no additional charge of course). It was a problem with the valve body that caused the overdrive gear to go away. It's working like new again...
I have about 60k miles on my 93'honda prelude. After parked outside for 3 days (temp. is about 32 degrees), I started the car without any problem, and I didn't have any problem with the automatic shifter, but I did notice the trans. oil leaking from my car (about 2 cups of trans. oil). After the leaking stop, I check the oil level in my car and it is ok. Now, I drove the car for about 2 days, and the leak seems to stop. Can some tell me is this normal? Should I take the car to the shop?
Hi, My 97 escort (automatic) transmission has always been a little rough. When speeding up quickly (say, 0-30 from a stop sign in less than 20 seconds) it frequently, but not always, lurches a bit. I've had it looked at and they say nothing's wrong. Is a rough transmission likely to fail sooner? I know that some critics, including Consumers Reports, cited the new Escorts as being a bit lurchy in this category. I really don't care, I just want to make sure I care for it properly. It's done this from day one and the current mileage is 47,000.
In addition, the wheels lock up very easily and the tires squeal when turning at very low speeds, despite having new brakes and tires. This probably isn't related, but who knows.
--1997 Ford Escort LX 2.0 Liter engine Automatic transmission, 47,000 miles trans fluid last changed at 35,000, bought new--
Occasionally when I start driving my 240SX (automatic) and increase the speed it will not shift into the next gear. This does not happen all the time only on occasion. My mechanic said it is a transmission problem and it would cost $1250 to fix. Is this the price range for this kind of repair?
We have a 92 Ranger. 2 years ago this Christmas the transmission went out with less than 60,000 miles on it. When we bought it the transmission locked into 4th gear. We drove it straight to the dealer who just repaired something or other. Still under warranty. About 2 years later the whole transmission went out. Of course Ford Co. would do nothing & the dealership also was useless. I have heard that transmissions in this vehicle are trouble. Has anyone else heard the same? Too late for me but maybe it will help someone else to know this info. Thanks...
My car has the Hold Light blinking and it does not shift to overdrive mode. Could anyone tell me that it has the transmission problem or not? Thanks in advance.
There might be a alert out for the Olds transmission but no one has answered previous post. As I stated my van is in shop at this time for it's second trans. This vehicle I think now will be called a lemon and GM will be approached on this after the holidays. To BLURHENS you neeed to have every document the Dealer has generated. Also record every trip to get Service. Please include your E mail address when you post so you can get feedback quickly.
Toomath, from what I hear, Escorts are pretty reliable cars overall. You can change the tranny fluid periodically to try to extend its life. Have you done so since you bought it?
I am wondering if the front end needs an alignment to fix the tire squealing problem...?
Dmasters, that Ranger is 7 years old, with low miles. Would it be accurate to say it has been driven mostly city miles? If so, those are particularly hard on a tranny. HOWEVER, I think for your own sake you should try to track down exactly what was done to your transmission previously. Have a receipt? Then you need to find out, perhaps from an independent mechanic, if the previous problem has anything to do with the current problem. If so, you should then check out your other options. I don't know if Ford has an arbitration court, or if you need to sue to get results, or what. But others in the Town Hall may have such advice. Check out any Ford "problem" topics.
If you haven't already, why don't you head over to our Finance, Warranty and Insurance conference? There are many discussions over there on extended warranties, including two topics on Warranty Gold.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
About a month ago I bought a '98 Millenia with 27,000 miles. The car always shifts from 1 to 2 at 13 mph with a kick in the seat of the pants. When the car is cold, it shifts from 2 to 3 at about 37 mph. The engine is going about 3000 rpm. When the car warms up, the second shift point drops down to 20 mph. This doesn't seem normal. Before I go back to the dealer, got a suggestion as to the problem?
I recently had an authorized dealer undertake some repairs on the automatic transmission of my 1992 Volkswagon Jetta. The repairs undertaken included a differential unit reseal, and disassembling the automatic body and replacing the transmission pump bearings. After the "repair" the transmission did not shift out of first gear normally. I checked the transmission fluid to discover that none was registering on the dipstick. I had been invoiced for three liters; however, upon checking Volkswagon's Service Manual I found that three liters were required for a refill and six liters for a dry fill. The service department said that they only needed to add 0.25 liters of fluid to bring it to the required level, as part of the transmission had been tilted so that the original fluid was not lost. Is this plausible?
Nmgridl, I believe most newer a/t hold the gears longer when cold to warm the car up faster and reduce emissions. All my cars over the last 10 years have done that--some are more noticeable than others. I think the Japanese cars are most noticeable.
My '91 Eagle Talon, with 75,000 miles on it, has a whine that comes from the manual transmission. The noise occurs when you put your foot on the gas pedal, not when the car coasts or is in neutral. The noise reminds me of some old trucks I have ridden in. Is this the result of normal wear and tear or symptom that a part is likely to fail soon?
OK, it official. I just bought the EX and it has the infamous torque converter clunk in reverse gear. I spoke with Honda USA Customer Service in Torrance CA and they acknowledged the problem immediately (they knew all about it), and they are in the process of issuing a service bulletin now to the dealers. Honda will install a new transmission labelled as a "rebuilt" but don't be alarmed, they get tagged as rebuilt because they are inventoried seperately from the new stock. These ARE new transmissions (after all there are no model year 2000 transmissions from old existing vehicles available), they use existing "cores" (the outer trany housing) and install all new guts. Everything is checked for tolerances. Again, the cores are really new as there is no inventory of used year 2,000 tranys. If this problem effects you - insist on a 5 year, 60K mile warranty in writing from Honda USA, they gave me one.
I have a 96 GMC suburban with 55K miles and it just went to the shop for a rebuild. Mild driver and local traffic.
I have always had a stick before so am not familiar with automatic transmissions and their failure rate, but this seems a very short period within which to fail.
Anyone aware if this is typical or specific to GMC/Chev, or where I might go to find such info.
Having a tranny problem at 55K miles does seem unusual, as I have owned GM vehicles for 35 years, all w/auto transmissions and have not had a failure. I do change fluid/filter about every 20,000 miles, and I usually adjust the "throttle pressure" so that I get a more firm shift after the vehicle has 20K miles on it.
I am currently pulling a heavy RV w/my 89 Van that has 106K miles on it and no problems, but I also have coolers on it. If your Suburban has a towing package, it should also have a cooler...did it run low on fluid...? Has the fluid been changed..?
Yes, I changed fluid and it came with a cooler. In fact it had just been to the shop a month prior to the problem for routine maint. It wasn't a flush job but a genuine drop the pan job. He said it and the fluid looked fine.
I had not been to that shop before and it is where I am having it fixed. My paranoia is that he sabotaged it while there for fluid change.
when I accelerate at about 40-45 mph I have to push the accelerator down about 1/2 way down before it shifts down. the problem is it will shift down to third instead of 4th. this is too low of gear at this speed. Can it be adjusted to have less accelerator pedal and shift only down to 4th?
What kind of GM do you have? What engine and what rear end? My Astro w/ 3.42 usualy lock up 4th at 44-49 MPH. At that speed if I lightly press the padel I will unlock 4th. But if I push padel 1/2 down it will alway go straight to 3th.
Its a 2000 GMC 1/2ton 4x4 SLE Z71 with 3.73 rearend. If I step on it lightly like you discribed, it sounds like it is growling (loading down). If I tap the brake at the same time I lighty step on it, it will go down to 4th from the TCC and stay there until it gets up to the speed I need, but it won't do it with just the accelerator. My 98 GMC would instantly shift down with a tap on the accelerator. I'm wondering if this just the design of the 2000 GMC's. Can you shed a little more light on this. The dealer says this is normal. I can't agree.
Lump, my old Delta 88 downshift sensitivity changed greatly with octane. If you are using low octane, and the vehicle allows it, I might suggest trying high octane...?
I'm the kind of person who likes to do my own preventative maintenance, i.e., changing fluids and filters. There's two reasons for this, I enjoy doin it, and I don't trust any mechanic any farther than I can throw him.
The problem I'm having deals with changing the tranny fluid in my '98 Dodge Intrepid. I know if I pull the tranny pan off, this isn't going to allow all of the tranny fluid to drain, some of the fluid still remains in the torque converter. Is it possible to drain ALL of the fluid from the tranny?
This leads to my next question. Since most of my driving is in town, I follow the most stringent maintenance schedule in my owners manual, which recommends changing my tranny fluid and filter every 15,000 miles. Now, since I'm not able to completely drain all of the fluid from my tranny, does this mean that I should pull the pan and drain out what fluid I can and replace the filter, or does this mean that I'm supposed to take my car to a tranny place and have them do a tranny flush? This is the only way that I know of to completely change out ALL of the fluid. I hope it doesn't mean to have my tranny flushed every 15K, 'cause at $140.00 a crack, this can get very expensive. If anyone knows of a way to completely drain this tranny, please let me know. Thanks.
Good question, bottgers. Years ago, some torque converters had drain plugs. There were usually two plugs so that you could remove the first and then rotate the converter 180* and remove the second. The top opening thus served as a vent for the drain at the bottom. Possibly for reasons of balance or leakage problems, I believe none of today's converters have drain provisions.
Shop manuals almost always specify two fluid capacities; an amount "at change" and another (larger)amount "at overhaul". This implies that "change" means drain and refill (and a new filter) rather than a system flush. I agree with you that leaving approximately half the old fluid in the system does not seem like a good idea ...but the above shop manual wording effectively specifies exactly that. I concur that your frequent (15,000 Mi) change intervals should provide the best protection and longevity for the cost involved.
I would welcome comments from others as to why torque converters lack drain plugs.
Normal periodic maintenance requires only to replace the trans. filter, pan gasket & oil contained in the pan area of the trans. If a person wishes to flush all the trans. fluid out, simply remove the return trans. cooler line, place a clear plastic hose & fitting in the cooler outlet. Next fill the trans. pan with new fluid, (at this point, trans. can be over filled) start engine, (some vehicles may need the trans. engaged) and the trans. pump will flush the the old oil out of the torque converter & cooler with new oil. DO NOT LET THE TRANS. RUN OUT OF OIL! It will be necessary to refill the trans. at least one more time. DO NOT OVER FILL THE TRANS. WHEN THIS OPERATION IS COMPLETE. I recommend that a second person start & stop the auto engine, allowing one to watch the fluid coming out of the trans cooler. It is easy to see the color change, in the clear plastic hose, when fresh has flushed old fluid out. Always follow manufacturers recommended service periods.
my 99 protege es auto shifts with a noticeable jerk when shifting from 1 to 2 and even more from 2 to 3(more like releasing the clutch too quickly in a manual transmission), but do not even feel the change from 3 to 4(overdrive). Is this OK?
BTW, this is my first auto tranny car. Drove Manual 4 speed for last 12 years. So can someone be kind enough to explain how does the auto tranny works?
Actually, this sounds like most Mazda automatics. I know mine does some of that. (I have a '93 626.) It probably shifts a little better when it's warm, too.
Thanks, lucky20. Your procedure for flushing the torque converter is a great idea for changing all the ATF at no cost other than the ATF, filter, and gasket. Indeed, if the transmission were inadvertently overfilled, one can re-attach the flush line and run some out to achieve the correct level.
Thanks for providing us a practical solution to the problem of no drain plugs on the torque converter.
Do you guys know about a technical service bulletin re: transmission durability problems on 1991 and some 1992 Infinity Q45? Well it is tagged ITB95-O25a and it came out due to poor filtration and cooling systems that cause the transmission to fail prematurely. Nissan will replace the transmission and some extra parts that they came up with at no cost.
This actually first came out in 1992 but it was re-issued in 95. My Q45 has 120,000 miles and the transmission has just went. I took it to a dealer and they never mentioned the existence of this bulletin. This bulletin extended the warranty of the transmission assembly to 7 years/ 100,000 miles. It no longer applies to my car, missed it for 20,000 miles. I am going to try to get some satisfaction from Nissan on this one. I just think they should have told me that this was a Nissan problem and offer some sort of assistance rather then just tell me it will take over $4,000 to fix it, take ti or leave it.
Does anyone have any experience with Infinity problems? Did you get your problems solved? I like the car very much but I have had to replace too many things lately. I certainly was not expecting one of the most expensive Japanese cars you can buy to start turning to scrap at 120 k. It certainly does not compare with my MB 300 CD, which I also bought used and has 160,000 miles on it. I will probably repair the Infinity at a garage in Michigan - Mitch's - they are on the net too. I hope they do a decent job, but since they are going to put in a used transmission I don't know. Any advice?
Since the Q has double the MB 300 CD power which trans would you expect to last longer? Since you are second owner was trans replaced under warranty previously?
If you'll check www.Deja.com... autos.infiniti.Q45 ; we have some posts and recommendations about transmission problems.
A rebuilt with updates Q45 transmission (by Nissan sub in Tennessee)is available From Scottsdale Infiniti for about $1700 + freight. Regardless of used or rebuilt, it is important to install an aftermarket cooler ($100) external and in parallel to the one in radiator in the event the stock unit plugs with debris causing overheat and failure. Many of these units failed between 60-80K due to poor maintenance by owners (no 30,60,90K fluild changes). The dealer did not recommend flushes because the problem was unknown then, however most people understand the importance of flushing trans from previously owned makes and failed units. If your trans was replaced and you have not installed extra cooler or are not flushing fluid regularly expect and budget another failure in the above time frame. With the above precautions 130-150k life is the norm,which is double most makes. A $120 flush every 30k is sure less expensive than a $3k transmission.
Warning: Diff will fail if you don't change fluid.
Thanks for your advice q45man. It is good advice indeed. I am no mechanic though. I take the car to a garage for regular maintenance (Nissan). They should have done whatever was required. May be Nissan won't care but I am not going to have a lot of incentive to buy a new car from them if they do not change their attitude a bit.
I've read the many problems with the Intrepid but have not heard the following. My 1995 with 70k has a vibration at times. The dealer said it is the "clutch" in the transmission wearing out; $2400 repair or $4200 new. Anyone else had this problem? Resolutions??? Thanks
I'm thinking about buying a used Ford Windstar minivan and someone told me that it had the same transmission as the Taurus and Mazda 626 of previous years and that they usually need replacing around 60k miles. Has anyone had any bad experiences with Ford transmissions? The Windstar is a '98 with 42k miles.
I have a 98 with 45k. Other than the common stalling problem (TSB on this) which was easily fixed, it has been trouble free. I changed the xmission fluid at 43K, and would recommend all owners to do this every 30K. Mine had some shavings in the fluid and had I gone more miles I feel I would have had trouble by 60K. Otherwise, it has good power, ac, stereo, and extemely comfortable seats. Like all cars, doing the recommended services should get you 150K out of this vehicle with minimal problems. Strongly recommend 3K oil changes.
There has been a lot of discussion in Town Hall about problems with the Windstar. I would recommend that you research these topics before making up your mind.
Good luck!
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Comments
My new 2000 Honda Accord LX is hit by the tranmission problem. The last I heard from my dealer is Honda mechanics are changing the transmissions.
I wanted to ask you people how serious is it ? Should I press for a new car ? Please let me know. Thanks for your time.
Regards,
Anand.
A link to NHTSA has recently been posted in some of our topics as a place to research and file complaints. You might like to check this out as well: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
Good luck!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
The transmission guy of course said it needs a rebuild (which at 163,300 miles on the original tranny was reasonably possible), so I had him do it. Now I will be taking it back to him, because the rebuild had affect on the problem.
My intuition is that this is caused by a $10 vacuum diaphragm or something. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, Mike
The dealer has been no help at all. Marysville is a small town so I guess I could expect this kind of treatment. ( See previous post )
Leroy Cook
It's working like new again...
dave
I don't like the major transmission chains. Many of them are thieves. A small, local guy I trust is always best for me.
The problem could simply be the oil pan gasket. Hopefully it is as simple as that.
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
My 97 escort (automatic) transmission has always been a little rough. When speeding up quickly (say, 0-30 from a stop sign in less than 20 seconds) it frequently, but not always, lurches a bit. I've had it looked at and they say nothing's wrong. Is a rough transmission likely to fail sooner? I know that some critics, including Consumers Reports, cited the new Escorts as being a bit lurchy in this category. I really don't care, I just want to make sure I care for it properly. It's done this from day one and the current mileage is 47,000.
In addition, the wheels lock up very easily and the tires squeal when turning at very low speeds, despite having new brakes and tires. This probably isn't related, but who knows.
--1997 Ford Escort LX 2.0 Liter engine Automatic transmission, 47,000 miles trans fluid last changed at 35,000, bought new--
My car has the Hold Light blinking and it does not shift to overdrive mode. Could anyone tell me that it has the transmission problem or not? Thanks in advance.
To BLURHENS you neeed to have every document the Dealer has generated. Also record every trip to get Service. Please include your E mail address when you post so you can get feedback quickly.
I am wondering if the front end needs an alignment to fix the tire squealing problem...?
Dmasters, that Ranger is 7 years old, with low miles. Would it be accurate to say it has been driven mostly city miles? If so, those are particularly hard on a tranny. HOWEVER, I think for your own sake you should try to track down exactly what was done to your transmission previously. Have a receipt? Then you need to find out, perhaps from an independent mechanic, if the previous problem has anything to do with the current problem. If so, you should then check out your other options. I don't know if Ford has an arbitration court, or if you need to sue to get results, or what. But others in the Town Hall may have such advice. Check out any Ford "problem" topics.
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
If you haven't already, why don't you head over to our Finance, Warranty and Insurance conference? There are many discussions over there on extended warranties, including two topics on Warranty Gold.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I believe most newer a/t hold the gears longer when cold to warm the car up faster and reduce emissions. All my cars over the last 10 years have done that--some are more noticeable than others. I think the Japanese cars are most noticeable.
has a whine that comes from the manual
transmission. The noise occurs when you put
your foot on the gas pedal, not when the car
coasts or is in neutral. The noise reminds me
of some old trucks I have ridden in. Is this
the result of normal wear and tear or symptom
that a part is likely to fail soon?
in Torrance CA and they acknowledged the problem
immediately (they knew all about it), and they are
in the process of issuing a service bulletin now to
the dealers. Honda will install a new transmission
labelled as a "rebuilt" but don't be alarmed, they
get tagged as rebuilt because they are inventoried
seperately from the new stock. These ARE new
transmissions (after all there are no model year
2000 transmissions from old existing vehicles
available), they use existing "cores" (the outer
trany housing) and install all new guts. Everything
is checked for tolerances. Again, the cores are
really new as there is no inventory of used year
2,000 tranys. If this problem effects you - insist
on a 5 year, 60K mile warranty in writing from
Honda USA, they gave me one.
I have always had a stick before so am not familiar with automatic transmissions and their failure rate, but this seems a very short period within which to fail.
Anyone aware if this is typical or specific to GMC/Chev, or where I might go to find such info.
I am currently pulling a heavy RV w/my 89 Van that has 106K miles on it and no problems, but I also have coolers on it. If your Suburban has a towing package, it should also have a cooler...did it run low on fluid...? Has the fluid been changed..?
I had not been to that shop before and it is where I am having it fixed. My paranoia is that he sabotaged it while there for fluid change.
Can it be adjusted to have less accelerator pedal and shift only down to 4th?
Thanks
If I step on it lightly like you discribed, it sounds like it is growling (loading down). If I tap the brake at the same time I lighty step on it, it will go down to 4th from the TCC and stay there until it gets up to the speed I need, but it won't do it with just the accelerator. My 98 GMC would instantly shift down with a tap on the accelerator. I'm wondering if this just the design of the 2000 GMC's. Can you shed a little more light on this. The dealer says this is normal. I can't agree.
Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
The problem I'm having deals with changing the tranny fluid in my '98 Dodge Intrepid. I know if I pull the tranny pan off, this isn't going to allow all of the tranny fluid to drain, some of the fluid still remains in the torque converter. Is it possible to drain ALL of the fluid from the tranny?
This leads to my next question. Since most of my driving is in town, I follow the most stringent maintenance schedule in my owners manual, which recommends changing my tranny fluid and filter every 15,000 miles. Now, since I'm not able to completely drain all of the fluid from my tranny, does this mean that I should pull the pan and drain out what fluid I can and replace the filter, or does this mean that I'm supposed to take my car to a tranny place and have them do a tranny flush? This is the only way that I know of to completely change out ALL of the fluid. I hope it doesn't mean to have my tranny flushed every 15K, 'cause at $140.00 a crack, this can get very expensive. If anyone knows of a way to completely drain this tranny, please let me know. Thanks.
Shop manuals almost always specify two fluid capacities; an amount "at change" and another (larger)amount "at overhaul". This implies that "change" means drain and refill (and a new filter) rather than a system flush. I agree with you that leaving approximately half the old fluid in the system does not seem like a good idea ...but the above shop manual wording effectively specifies exactly that. I concur that your frequent (15,000 Mi) change intervals should provide the best protection and longevity for the cost involved.
I would welcome comments from others as to why torque converters lack drain plugs.
Always follow manufacturers recommended service periods.
BTW, this is my first auto tranny car. Drove Manual 4 speed for last 12 years. So can someone be kind enough to explain how does the auto tranny works?
Thanks in Advance
Thanks for providing us a practical solution to the problem of no drain plugs on the torque converter.
This actually first came out in 1992 but it was re-issued in 95. My Q45 has 120,000 miles and the transmission has just went. I took it to a dealer and they never mentioned the existence of this bulletin. This bulletin extended the warranty of the transmission assembly to 7 years/ 100,000 miles. It no longer applies to my car, missed it for 20,000 miles. I am going to try to get some satisfaction from Nissan on this one. I just think they should have told me that this was a Nissan problem and offer some sort of assistance rather then just tell me it will take over $4,000 to fix it, take ti or leave it.
Does anyone have any experience with Infinity problems? Did you get your problems solved? I like the car very much but I have had to replace too many things lately. I certainly was not expecting one of the most expensive Japanese cars you can buy to start turning to scrap at 120 k. It certainly does not compare with my MB 300 CD, which I also bought used and has 160,000 miles on it. I will probably repair the Infinity at a garage in Michigan - Mitch's - they are on the net too. I hope they do a decent job, but since they are going to put in a used transmission I don't know. Any advice?
If you'll check www.Deja.com... autos.infiniti.Q45 ; we have some posts and recommendations about transmission problems.
A rebuilt with updates Q45 transmission (by Nissan sub in Tennessee)is available From Scottsdale Infiniti for about $1700 + freight.
Regardless of used or rebuilt, it is important to install an aftermarket cooler ($100) external and in parallel to the one in radiator in the event the stock unit plugs with debris causing overheat and failure.
Many of these units failed between 60-80K due to poor maintenance by owners (no 30,60,90K fluild changes). The dealer did not recommend flushes because the problem was unknown then, however most people understand the importance of flushing trans from previously owned makes and failed units.
If your trans was replaced and you have not installed extra cooler or are not flushing fluid regularly expect and budget another failure in the above time frame. With the above precautions 130-150k life is the norm,which is double most makes. A $120 flush every 30k is sure less expensive than a $3k transmission.
Warning: Diff will fail if you don't change fluid.
Q45man
thanks for your response q45man.
the owners's manual for '99 protege es does not specify any.
have not heard the following. My 1995 with 70k
has a vibration at times. The dealer said it is
the "clutch" in the transmission wearing out; $2400 repair or $4200 new. Anyone else had this
problem? Resolutions??? Thanks
on the steering wheel or in the engine.
when do you feel the vibration?
when shifting or idle or ...
Any advice is welcome.
There has been a lot of discussion in Town Hall about problems with the Windstar. I would recommend that you research these topics before making up your mind.
Good luck!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference