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Transmission Traumas?

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Comments

  • toosunstoosuns Member Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Windstar w/ 37,000 miles (just past warranty) and the transmission is slipping between the 1st and 2nd gears and 2nd and 3rd gears each time I begin driving the van. After the van is driven a while, the shifting doesn't seem to slip anymore. Could this problem be remedied by changing the transmission fluid (which hasn't been done yet, even though it should have been done at 30,000 miles)? Or do I need to replace the transmission? Could anyone give me some advice? Thanks!
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    The car has the 4.6 Litre engine. What overdrive transmission does Ford put on this car?
    My problem is, well, a long story. Cruising in drive (overdrive is on automatically unless you remember to turn it off) you can let the car run on its own momentum, then give it gas, and the transmission makes a noticible bump. I was told it was normal. Whirring sound coming from transmission in first. Told it was normal on an FMX in another car, haven't had it looked at on the T-Bird. In shifting from OD to 3, shift happens at about 30 mph while slowing down, bad engine braking on this downshift. And the kicker-the car seems to hunt for gears, shifting rapidly back & forth between gears, usually when going uphill, but also when you are giving it just enough gas to maintian speed or slightly accelerate. I don't hod rod, (in fact, I drive rather conservatively), but the car had 139,000 miles on it when I got it, so I have no idea how the PO drove. Now has nearly 149,000 miles (I've had it since July). Something tells me this car has seen a lt more highway driving than in town. Anybody know if there is something specific wrong with this car, or is it just that 150,000 miles was more than the transmission could take? Thanks for your help.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    I've had the transmission fluid in the T-Bird flushed about 1000mi ago, and it made no difference.
  • pdifaziopdifazio Member Posts: 1
    My 94 4cyl tempo vibrates excessively when in gear waiting for a light to change. As soon as it's moving again the vibration goes away. All mounts were checked and ok and a tune up was just done. Is this a common tempo problem? I'm considering another car.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Short of design or component flaws, your transmission life is up to you. The majority of AT last well in excess of 50k miles with the average failure between 65-80K for US made (all except Lexus LS/SC400/300 Rear drive which will average 120k-150k miles--there are a few others but this is the most outstanding average life.)
    Why, in a heavy powerful car do they last so long, the design is good but not extraordinary.

    They use syn fluid and require that it be changed often along with filter (at owners expense). After the 60k warranty these 30k changes are continued because they are included in the price of standard service.

    Why would any consumer expect a product life more than double the warranty without some consideration on their part. Like preventative maintenance.

    Any transmission will last longer with regular fluid flushes sometimes doubling or tripling its un maintained life. How can you not spend $120 every 30kmiles to delay a $2,000-$3,000 replacement.
  • garthgarth Member Posts: 66
    where in the world are you getting your transmission failure data ("the average failure between 65-80K for US made")? I have personally driven several GM auto transmissions to well over 100k with no trans. problems whatsoever, and minimal maintenance (flushed at about 50k intervals). Three GM vehicles, 400k miles, no trans problems. Can't speak for Ford, but IMO, GM transmissions are world-class.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    You said the magic word : Flush
    I was speaking of current designs as I was trying to warn people before the damage is done. I assume your 400k vehicles are +10 years old. Check out current 4 speed AT like Caddy,Gm trucks and RV, F vans, chry mini. RV, SUV.
    Anytime you put decent torque and high weight together on an AT designed for neither you get problems.
    According to AT Rebuilders Association 9 million AT are replaced/rebuilt each year due to heat related failure (90%). I expect a few are GM but the current winner is MB's new step child.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    For those who want to see an experts take on the reliability of various Automatic Transmissions see:http://www.thegrid.net/thedrivetrainpage/whtobuy.htm

    If this doesn't scare MB.
  • askeepaskeep Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 1996 LHS AND HAD THE TRANNY FIXED AT THE DEALER. WELL WHEN I GOT IT BACK THE CAR STILL HAD A HESATATION BEFORE GOING INTO GEAR.THEY TOLD ME THAT LHS'S TRANNY'S WERE SUPPOSED DO THAT BECAUSE ITS AN ELECTRONIC CONTROLED TRANNY. WHAT A BUNCH OF HOG WASH. A LUXURY CAR WITH A ROLLING BUMP TRANNY. ANY OTHERS EVER HAD THIS EXPIERENCE?
  • squirt73squirt73 Member Posts: 1
    I perchased my Jetta on Jan.2,2000 and 36 days later I had my transmision break it was towed to the dealer and they were very helpful and got me a nice loaner but I bought that car to drive it. It has been 4 days now and my car has a defective part in the transmision that was caused in the making of the gear. It got tooo hot and caused it to be weak and that is what broke, the catch is that the part is not in the U.S. it is only in Germany or Mexico so it will take 7 to 10 days just to recieve the part. So has any one else had this problem or simmiler and are there common problems with these cars. Squirt
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Did you also find The New VW Jetta here in this conference? You might want to check through that very active topic to see if anyone has discussed a similar problem there.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • askeepaskeep Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same story with my 96 lhs. You know "it dosent show up on the computer" . It makes me want to ring somebodies neck. I'm going to file a complaint with the bbb and who ever. If you want to tell your story contact me at lkrly@netscape.net
  • stevenp2stevenp2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a new 2000 beetle that after 5000 miles had the clutch burn up completely. We were coasting in a parking deck when we noticed smoke in the engine compartment. At this point the transmision (5 speed)would not go into gear. The shop accused us of "riding the clutch" the clutch was replaced. After approx. 20 miles on the road the transmisson locked again and the clutch started to burn again. The car is back in the shop. Anyone have similar experience with new beetle?
  • sunfgtsunfgt Member Posts: 40
    I have a 96 Sunfire GT with the 4-speed auto. The tranny has always been a source of worry for me. It is not particularly smooth, as the shift points are very noticeable. Furthermore, it has the annoying habit of jumping down 2 gears when the throttle is applied after a partial deceleration, a problem commonly encountered during routine city driving.

    Another area of concern is that when the car is cold and I shift into Drive, the transmission doesn't engage from about a second, and when it does, a loud thump is heard and felt, and the car acts like it wants to jerk forward, stopped only by the presence of my foot on the brake pedal.

    I reported these problems to the dealership, but
    they said that it was normal for the car, saying that the Sunfire is a cheap car. I know that the Sunfire isn't a Lexus, but I thought that GM's autos had very good shifting quality. I've been in Neon's with antiquated 3-speed autos and they've never felt anything like mine. Can anyone out there tell me whether my transmission is supposed to behave like this?
  • fordfreak2fordfreak2 Member Posts: 1
    If the OD lite on your 96 Contour flashes, there is a Fault code listed in your PCM. This code will remain in the PCM for a series of drive cycles, (run/start cycles) My advice to you is, when the light comes on, take note of the existing conditions, speed, engine temp, road/traffic conditions, etc. Do not turn your ignition off. Drive directly to your dealer and ask them to verify your TCS flashing and scan for codes with the NGS, SBDS or WDS. You have an EEC V, OBD II system on your vehicle and a code should be present. While you're there, ask them to run OASIS on your vehicle and enter symptom codes for your concern. All too often we have customers come in and tell us that they had a fault indicator on, (MIL or TCS), two weeks or so ago, and if the fault is not persistent, the light goes out and after sufficient "drive cycles", the PCM clears the code(s) from it's memory. While you're there, ask them about any pending recalls on your vehicle, unless they've already been done.
  • terminalisterminalis Member Posts: 40
    I posted this message in other forums, but I'll
    post it again here. I want some more inputs.

    I have Accord EX-V6 2000 (manufactured on Dec. 1999). From day 1, my Accord showed transmission shudder at low RPMs (below ~2500). It was most noticeable at around 50 and 20 mph when cruising. I took the car to the dealer, and after a couple of run arounds and a few phone calls to Honda, they decided to replace the torque converter in my car. Now I have a new torque converter, but the car still shudders at low RPM when cruising (although not as much as before, and the gear shift is pretty smooth now. no hard shifting from 1st to 2nd anymore.) Also, I feel little shudder right before the car comes to a stop when braking. Plus, recently (1500 miles) I hear a strange 'ta-ta' noise coming from the passenger side, mostly when climbing a hill at low RPM and constant speed.
    I'm wondering if it's normal to have a shudder like this, even after it's been replaced with the 'good' torque converter. Is a small amount of shudder OK for a car with automatic lock-up torque converter? My Buick Century automatic never did this. I'm pretty happy with my Accord overall. It's just that mild shudder and strange noise that's been bothering me a little. Any inputs will be appreciated. Thanks.

    --terminalis
  • doc30doc30 Member Posts: 3
    I've just scanned or read every entry above. Struck by the relatively small number of problems relating to GM cars (except several related to Sunbird)...why is this?

    I'm interested because my '92 Bonneville SSEi (96000 mi) is shifting harder and exhibiting an occasional jerk when going from stops. (No noticeable mechanical noises.) It has been flushed within the last year.

    1.)Are there any adjustments to be made to it?
    2.)Where can I find a schematic and parts/repair info online?
    3.) Should I trade now or can I get another year or two out of it?

    Any help much appreciated.
  • brad45brad45 Member Posts: 27
    doc30, is the transmition electronic?

    My '94 cutlass supreme has the early version of GM's electronic automatic. It was the first year they offered it in the Cutlass. They offered it earlier in other cars. My understanding is the reliability was not so great during the first couple of years, but has gotten much better since.

    My car started doing what yours is doing at about 45k. Luckily I purchased the extended warranty. At 53k they rebuilt the tranny. Replaced some "rotoshaft" or some other thing I'd never heard of. It ran great for about 30K more then started the same thing again. I had the tranny serviced and it hasn't gotten much worse for several thousand miles.

    Now at 94K and expect to replace the tranny somewhere around 110k. I hate to get rid of the car. It's been pretty good. Most of my problems have been related to dealer incompetence. No mechanical troubles at all except for the tranny.

    I'd say keep track of the problem and see how fast it gets worse. You may very well be able to get another year out of it.

    Good luck.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    You may have the problem that has been discussed extensively in several places in Town Hall. I suggest you read through all the posts in at least these two topics:

    Honda Accord Problems here in Maintenance and Repair and

    2000 Honda Accord Issues over in our Smart Shopper conference.

    I know you've already posted in Honda Accord Problems topic, but I wonder if you read the whole topic? Your problem does sound similar to what was discussed earlier there.

    I hope this of some help.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • doc30doc30 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response! I think mine is electronic (it has normal and performance settings that are electronically controlled).

    Did your tranny progress to complete failure when you had it rebuilt or just get more noticeable?
  • brad45brad45 Member Posts: 27
    It was getting pretty bad though. It seemed to slip worst when I did what we refer to in the northeast as a "Boston Stop." That is a 2-5 mph rolling stop and then hit the throttle. Would snap your head back a bit by the end. Which is a pretty bad slip because the 3.1 V6 isn't exactly torquey. The rebuild would have run about $2500 if it wasn't waranteed. And as I said it will probably be good for about 50-60k miles. I don't know how much a "new" rebuilt transmission would be or how much a factory new transmission is. It might be worth looking into. It doesn't take too many $400 payments on a new car to equal the repair costs.
  • kaveladykavelady Member Posts: 4
    I'm expecting a new differential to arrive shortly for my '00 Nissan xterra suv. There's a problem with the final drive assembly (ring and pinion gears not setup properly). I was wondering what type of warranty to expect, and if I get the standard "3yr, 36k miles" that came with the truck, should I lobby for more?

    What's the usual (if there is any such thing) warranty period for a new differential?

    Thanks!!
  • ignaigna Member Posts: 4
    Hello everybody!
    I got a question about Dodge Neon 1998 (or,
    maybe, this is common for all Neons with auto
    transmission?...).
    I am going to buy this car in a few days and
    tested it yesterday. Before I was driving only
    japanize cars and and driving Neon was my first
    experience with small american cars.
    Is it common that you feel when you change gears?
    From R to D , lets say.. The car is jumping up a bit every time you change from P to R or R to D ?
    I don't feel anything when I do that in Civic...
    Thanks.
    I would appreciate any answer here, or you can
    send it to igna@iname.com
  • scout153scout153 Member Posts: 1
    Thank you for the response in reference to my O/D flashing light problem. I will take your response to the dealer and talk to them about this and ask them to check these things out.
  • dave1442397dave1442397 Member Posts: 12
    If it doesn't feel right, don't buy it!
    But seriously, you might want to go to a dealer who has used Neons on the lot, and check the transmission in a car similar to the one you're buying. See if it feels the same.
    If there is a problem with the car you're looking at, it could cost a lot to fix.
    Another thing you could do is call AAA and have them send a mechanic to check the car out. I did that once, cost me $45. Not sure how much it is these days, but it would help you decide.
    Dave
  • mooney231mooney231 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased my 94' 4wd EB new, had the trans service at 61K, it now has 124K. Recently it will not go into lockup (O/D)a term used by my local shop keeper. When starting out from a stand still it shifts (4) times but occasionally it will not shift but (3) not into over drive. It was sreviced yesterday at my local shop, oil and new filter and the mechanic said it looked great, no metal but he couldn't find my problem. I'm thinking its something electronic. Any suggestions before my trans man starts throwing parts at it.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I believe the warranty booklet with the Xterra will show a "5-year/50,000 mile" drivetrain warranty. The front differential assembly, including the ring and pinion gearing, is part of the drivetrain. Accordingly, the manufacturer is liable for any repair costs incurred during the first five years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This type of problem is rare so it's very unlikely that the replacement differential will also be defective. However, do check to be sure it functions properly and sounds normal because there is a slim possibility that something such as a defective axle housing led to the initial failure ... and would similarly damage the replacement differential assembly. Good luck.
  • kaveladykavelady Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, Spokane.

    I brought the truck in Thursday morning to the dealer, and they handed off a Sentra to use as a loaner (after driving a "truck" I felt like an ant among giants on the highway)!

    They did the work, and so far everything sounds fine. I've got great ears and will keep an "eye out" for any noises that crop up. This particular noise began fairly subtly, then became a roar by the time the parts came in (about 2 weeks).

    Not fun at all on a new car with 2000 miles, I'll tell you, but what can you do. . . getting pissed off at the dealer wouldn't make it get fixed any faster or any more "free."

    Thanks again for your help!

    Kathy v
  • bobco3bobco3 Member Posts: 2
    I currently own a 1993 Dodge Intrepid ES. I had to have the transmission replaced at 65000. My son owns a 1994 Eagle Vision. He had to have the transmission replaced at 45,000. A neighbor had a 1996 Chrlysler Concorde and had to have his transmission replaced at 38,000 miles.

    I love the Intrepids and am considering buying a 2000 Intrepid. However, Chrysler will only warranty the transmission (and all else) for 3 months/ 36 miles, unless, of course, you purchase extended warranties. I am very leery. Many, if not most, foreign cars, e.g., Toyota, give a 70-100,000 warranty on their transmissions. If Chrysler has any confidence at all in their transmission, why won't they warranty it until at least 70,000 miles? I love the styling, etc. of the Intrepid, but am really leary of buying another one, given the history of these transmissions...Any experiences, comments?

    Bob c.
    royals@erols.com
  • leitartleitart Member Posts: 1
    Just test drove a '97 Mitsubishi Galant ES (automatic), which I'm considering buying. However, at times when I tried to speed up, I noticed a moderately soft "grating" noise (grrrr) when I pressed the accelerator beyond a certain point (probably when the transmission shifts??). Any insights as to why this could be happening? Would this be something I should be overly concerned about, and can it be rectified?
    Thanks
  • bhawkins1bhawkins1 Member Posts: 1
    My 85 Olds wagon lost its trans at 219k.I replaced with a 89 caddy trans with 92k miles.

    Made sure lines were cleaned,and installed new filter on replacement unit.
    This first day I used it a peculiar thing happened.After stopping for gas,the car was restarted and no gears worked.I kept moving the selector and finally took off.No problems since??
    What caused it? The transmission shifts and works great!
  • dmkdmk Member Posts: 22
    Buy an extended warranty if you're concerned. Should be no more than $800 or so for 80-100k mi. I just traded in a 96 Intrepid ES w/ 100k mi. and not a problem w/ the tranny. DM quality has really improved over the last few years.
    Good luck.
  • jkang715jkang715 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Honda Accord with a clunk noise when I put the gear into R. Is it hurting my engine or anything else? Or is it just a noise that's an inconvenience? In the long run, will it fail? Any response would be great.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    What year is your car? You should probably read all the posts in Honda Accord problems to see if what has been discussed there might apply to your car.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    jkang715,

    This is a well publicized problem on NEW Accords. Pat's right, what year is your car??

    Your host, Bruce
  • crazyj1crazyj1 Member Posts: 1
    Bear with me here..
    I would like EVERYONE who's been reading these
    posts concerning the v6 tranny problems to know
    that I AM STILL FIGHTING MY DEALERSHIP (Orem,
    Utah)to fix my transmission problems! I now have
    34K miles on my coupe and am starting to sweat. My
    car shifts VERY, VERY abruptly with a clanking
    between 1st and 2nd gears. My dealership still
    claims to know of NO PROBLEMS. I have not called
    Honda corporate yet b/c I just started reading
    these newsgroups.
    For those of you who gripe about us complaining
    about our tranny problems...PLEASE, PLEASE know
    that this gets very frustrating (especially as a
    3rd time in-a-row Honda owner) for my dealership to
    be treating me like dirt and actually giving me
    dirty looks and *gasping* rudely when I walk-in
    because I complain about this. I HATE DRIVING MY
    '98 ACCORD COUPE because of this 1st-to-2nd
    shifting problem!
    For Mr. "ISellHondas", buddy, listen...when you
    spend $25,000 on your next car and it has a problem
    as serious as this, I'll fly you over to my place
    and personally buy you a gold-plated box of
    kleenex's because I know how horrifying this has
    been.
    Honda is a great company and this Accord coupe
    is (theoretically) a great car...I just want Honda
    to know that I am NOT pleased at the disappointing
    experiences I have had at the Orem, Utah dealership
    trying to get them to be AT ALL helpful or
    honestly wanting to help me.
    Sincerely,
    Jason Day
    TheSasquatch@hotmail.com
  • gkelly3gkelly3 Member Posts: 38
    Has anyone with the Civic CVT had reliability problems? I am considering the CVT, but I understand that SUBARU had one and discontinued it (due to reliability problems).
    I would like to hear from anyone who has had problems with the CVT.
  • spud6spud6 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 94 b4000 4wd truck. The 5 speed trans has began to whine in 1-2 gear. I drained the trans and serviced. Little material on magnetic drain plug. My problem is that when consulting a mechanic he said that they do not rebuild these trans and to get ready for a 1500-2000 dollar replacement. Can you not replace the input bearing on the trans or am I further ahead to get the new trans. The truck is in excellent condition with 125000 miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • auptagdarauptagdar Member Posts: 2
    HELP!!

    Driving home my 94 Nissan Maxima w/auto and it slipped out of gear going up a small hill, engine would just rev but no go. I took it out of overdrive and was able to drive the few miles home. Once home I could not get reverse, but low gears work w or w/o overdirve on. I checked the fluid and it is nice red, no metal, full. Had both the 30 and 60 K service overhauls at the dealer, car now has 75 K miles on it. Am I looking at a complete failure here or could it be something simple (and less costly)?

    HELP!!
  • auptagdarauptagdar Member Posts: 2
    HELP!!

    Driving home my 94 Nissan Maxima w/auto and it slipped out of gear going up a small hill, engine would just rev but no go. I took it out of overdrive and was able to drive the few miles home. Once home I could not get reverse, but low gears work w or w/o overdirve on. I checked the fluid and it is nice red, no metal, full. Had both the 30 and 60 K service overhauls at the dealer, car now has 75 K miles on it. Am I looking at a complete failure here or could it be something simple (and less costly)?

    HELP!!
  • hershey1hershey1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello ,all first time here.

    My question is , can I replace my 1984 honda accord manual transmission into a 1986 honda accord with automatic transmission(don't like autos to much). Thanks
  • homemechanichomemechanic Member Posts: 3
    For most autotrans this will help.
    When you check check the tranx fluid in your car and the fluid stick says full, JUST ADD some more fluid because when its full in a cold car it means low when you drive it. This is usually the cause of trans failure and miss shifts. It will not hurt the tranx if you overfill the MARK on the stick not the refillpipe.
    Good luck.
    PS if it works, send me a check....just kidding.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Could be a number of things. Is the HOLD light flashing?
  • jjfloridajjflorida Member Posts: 3
    The HOLD light is not flashing, and it works as it should. Additionally, the transmission's fluid has been changed recently with no positive or negative impact.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It might not be the transmission at all, but something that feeds it information. (The '93 is completely computer-controlled; there is no throttle cable.) Or maybe it's just that the throttle plate is getting hung up somewhere along the throttle body.
  • zx3fanzx3fan Member Posts: 2
    This is a heads up for Focus 5-speed owners.
    Please post if you have this problem.

    Symptoms if you hold the clutch in for 30 seconds or so the clutch will not disengage and the gears may lock out.

    I have taken in my twilight blue ZX3 about 10 days ago. The dealer is replacing the master and slave cylinders, but parts aren’t available. I have just over 5000 miles on this car.

    Also got recall notice for Injector Pressure Sensor.


    Although the dealer gave me a loaner (Dodge Neon, best sales tool for a focus if there ever was a need to) I miss my ZX3!!!
  • rkpattrkpatt Member Posts: 23
    I recently acquired a 1986 Ford F150 4X4 with what I assume to have an AOD. I plan on replacing the low oil pressure 302 engine with a rebuilt but have questions about the transmission and the dimishing returns on this vehicle. The transmission shifts fine except really clunks hard at the overdrive shift. Whats going on here -is failure imminent ? How much
    $ for a rebuild ?. Thanks
  • 1846618466 Member Posts: 46
    Is it normal for dextron 3 fluid in a trans to have a slight smell. I don't know how to determine if this is a burnt smell or it is just normal. Any feedback would be appreciated. Color of fluid is normal.
  • lucky20lucky20 Member Posts: 35
    I can't diagnose an auto trans. problem here, but any harsh shift should be investigated. Take it to youre favorite trusted trans. repair shop, you might find them very helpful. Even an easy, inexpensive problem, if let go, may result in further damage.
  • lucky20lucky20 Member Posts: 35
    Fresh dexron III will have light oil smell. With use, the oil will increase with odor & may darken slightly in color. Burnt or heat damaged oil will have a pungent odor that is hard to describe, but unmistakable once experienced. Heat damaged oil will also be noticeably darker in color. What you are describing should be normal.
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