Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Tires
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This change would increase your ground clearance about an inch. The 8.7% diameter difference will provide this amount of error in your speedometer and odometer. (If your speedometer is presently accurate at 60 MPH, this change means an indicated 60.0 MPH will be an actual speed of 65.2 MPH.) Braking effectiveness will also be reduced by 8.7%. Too, low-gear starts will be a little more sluggish. Handling will not improve but it may be OK with good shocks. If these factors are OK with you, then comes the question of clearance in the wheel wells. Sorry, I can't help on the clearance question.
Why am I harping about speedometer readings? Aside from the local authorities, ( I have an allergic reaction to blue lights..makes my wallet break out in a rash!)..on the more modern vechiles that have integrated computer systems that control both the engine and transmission as a single unit, one of the inputs is the speed reading from the tailshaft. Taller tires will fool the computer into thinking that the vehicle is going slower than it actually is and will constantly be trying to make the appropriate fuel/air mixture changes...spark advance changes...etc...resulting in you pressing harder on the gas...lowewr fuel mileage..etc. I own a '95 S-10 with the 4.3 and know the mileage on them sucks already! And the shift points will be off also.
(Btw..I was told this by an ASE GM mechanic..so if I'm wrong..blame him..not me!)
The coarse-tread tires are more prone to cupping. Even so, with good alignment and good quality tires, cupping should not be noticeable until the tire tread is 45% to 60% used. Please note that after the cupping has started, even a good alignment may not be able to arrest further cupping.
The mechanic is correct on that point! Everything is linked to everything in this case!
I've also heard that rule referred to as "plus 10, minus 5".
Thanks
Do you use tire protectants? They will often turn brown as sun and dirt collect. I personally don't bother with them, and Armor All is well-known for turning brown over time. The opposite is also true - you may be getting brown rings where you do NOT have protectant applied.
The best way to get them clean is warm water, and a fresh Brillo pad with plenty of soap. Scrub lightly and rinse thoroughly with a hose to prevent steel wool shavings from getting to the metal and creating rust. This will also get white letters very clean and bright. The sidewall surface should be smooth and consistent. If you have abrasions from scraping curbs, or cuts from potholes or debris, you should NOT use protectants.
I use ArmorAll Low Lustre afterwards. Personaly don't care for the shiny look on tires, but like them looking very black. On 'virgin' tires I apply it thoroughly and let it soak in about an hour. Then give the tire a second coat which I buff out with a shop rag. Then after that has set over night, another coating buffed out again. The effect lasts about a month! Then about once a month thereafter, a light 'squirt' buffed out works fine. The tires are nice and black and dirt washes off easier. And a quick buff with a shop rag after washing gets them looking like new again.
P - passenger car tire
235 - section width in millimeters
75 - aspect ratio - sidewall height is 75% of the section width
R - radial
15 - wheel diameter
Your tires are designed for wheel widths between 6 and 8.5 inches - most commonly used is 6 inches on cars, and 7 on light trucks.
Thanks
You'd probably like the Bridgestone Turanza T in that size.
coffeebiz,
Check out the Bridgestone Dueler HT D684.
You can find info on both of these tires at The Tire Rack.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
CX? They are the kind that do not require hub
cabs; in fact - they use the good ole Honda logo
center caps. The rims have a unique design: small
circles stamped out, all around the entire
diameter. I am wondering where I might get them
(without having to go to the dealer and pay a
ridiculous price). I want to use a set for snow
tires.
I can get the cheap black steel rims from
aftermarket places, but they look like crap without
hub caps, and I hate hub caps anyway.
Thanks
Thanks in advance
I have stock P195/55R15 Michelins on my Integra GS. I would like to replace them with the next possible size (maybe a P205/50R15). However, I don't know if this is okay. For those Integra enthusiasts out there, what do you suggest?
Thanks,
jsalanga
What's on the back of your Olds? Be very careful about mixing treads between front and rear on a front wheel drive car. The wrong combination will make major ride and handling differences. Your better bet is to replace all 4 if you're not getting the same brand and type as is currently on the rear.
kcram
Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
I like the Honda wheels, too. You might try a junkyard for used wheels. Otherwise you can try the cheap steel aftermarket wheels that are available in white or chrome, or paint them silver like the Honda wheels. Good luck.
are Michelin MX4's P185/65R15 88T. The front
tires are a different Michelin make (X Radial Plus,
I think), and are the same size except they say
86T. The manual and door-jam sticker say nothing
about 86T. Do I need to get 88T's for the front,
especially if I rarely ride with a full load? Will
I hurt my car if I don't. Please help, I fear I
want get an unbiased answer from the dealer or tire
place. Thanks!
Your load rating difference may not be a problem as long as both ratings meet or exceed what is required for your vehicle (which they probably do). As long as that is the case, you don't have to worry about any tire failing from overloading.
Mixing tires is a problem for another reason. Different tires have different handling characteristics (different levels of traction under various conditions). This can upset the car's delicate handling balance and lead to a loss of control due to increased oversteer under extreme or emergency handling conditions (fishtailing or spinning). Ideally you would have 4 tires of the same model with similar wear. At a minimun, you should have 4 tires of the same type (all touring tires or all performance tires, for example). Matching speed ratings is a good idea (which you have) because this is one indicator of the type of tire.
http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=All+Things+Integra&number=32&DaysPrune=10&LastLogin=
gus
conference host
I've always upgraded one width (90 626 GT, 87 Z28, 95 GC AWD) and this is an accepted practice. The fact that the 2000 Accords come with 205s is an assurance of Mich's recommendation.
By the way I'm narrowing it down to Energy MXV4 plus's and Pilot XGT V4s. How about you?
Second, the correct tire pressures ARE NOT to be found on the sidewall, but in your owner's manual and on a plate that you will find somewhere on the car, usually on the door sill or the glove box lid. For this car, I would bet that the recommended pressure is on the order of 32 psi. Anything you see on the sidewall of the tire refers to the MAXIMUM cold pressure the tire was designed for, NOT the car maker's design pressure for your car. I don't know for sure that's what you were saying with your 35 psi figure, but this is a common misunderstanding that unfortunately even some people in the business continue to perpetuate.