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Tires
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Comments
And thanks also for all the help you are offering around this conference. :-)
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Harry
Hope every1 had a great long weekend. Are there more people experience any/all of these tires:
Dunlop D60 A2 JLB
Bridgestone RE 930
Firestone SH30
Please let me know how/why you like/dislike them and thanks in advance
The Firestone Dealer says that these are not sold directly by Firestone and will not provide warranty assistance.
1. Does anyone know where FR505's are sold?
2. The Firestone website shows that Firestone tires are warrantied for 5 years from sale date with proof of purchase or 3 years from date of manufacture without. Is this correct? Can I expect warranty adjustment without proof of purchase?
Thanks
Tom
Just one problem - no shredding tires!
Sure, they rigged the system to pretend to blowout at different speeds - but:
a. No real surprise to the professional test driver - he knew just about when and where it was gonna happen
b. The tire tread did not separate from the tire body because, of course, that would have been very difficult to duplicate a dozen times on command
But I agree, it was still very interesting that the older-model Explorer had ZERO problems in handling with a 100% flat left rear tire, even at 60-70 mph.
Harry
Basically, they rigged the left rear tire to deflate on command in a 1/3 of a second. They were trying to figure out why Explorers are crashing in the first place. Its their contention that the tire tread/shred/blowout doesn't itself cause a rollover; rather its the response afterwards (leaving the pavement) that does. I haven't seen the actual statistics, but they claim the vast majority of the blowout rollovers occur after the Explorer leaves the pavement. So what they were trying to do is determine why the Explorers leave the pavement.
They still don't know why. In their "tests", the Explorer behaved very stable. Pundits criticize the test, but at least they're trying...
Harry
You got 50,000+ miles right? That is great.
Believe it or not narrower tires seem to work better in the snow. I have talked to several tire dealers in my area and they all seem to agree on that point. A taller narrower tire will work better most of the time. They don't help on ice unless they are studded however, or if you are allowed to use chains. But in snow a wide tire spreads the weight of your car out and allows you to slide more on the snow. A narrow tire tends to sink down more and gets better traction. Has worked for me.
Your tire size research would be done if your car manufacturer lists a smaller tire for your car or just go with the listing that tirerack already prints in the car magazines and online.
I would refer you to: tirerack.com
They have performance ratings and comments by owners of all these tires.
Personally, I had a set of Dunlop D60A2's on my Toyota Camry...they handled well, but I never could get them to balance properly, so I always had some steering wheel vibration.
I would pick the Bridgestone RE 930 out of the 3 choices. But, I would also check into a set of Michelin Pilot XGT H4s, I think this is a better choice, if price is not a factor...my wife has these on her car, and they are smooth, quiet, and handle well.
Good Luck,
Vern
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Thanks
The sidewall pressure, usually, is way up comparing with the recommended one. 10 psi or so.
It is rather dangerous to drive with so extremely overinflated tires. The tires do not hold road well, especially a wet pavement.
I had such an experience once. When changing oil at dealer, the mechanic overinflated the tires, and I did not check. Soon after this had to drive 40 miles at strong rain with snow, in the rush time. Had to work really hard to keep my car in the lane. It was somewhat scary.
I believe, with SUV it would be even worse than with car.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Now my problem, the max pressure on the Pirellis is 44 P.S.I. There appears to be 3 possible solutions: 1- Go with the 32 P.S.I. as recommended on the door jamb. 2- Since the original tires were recommended to run 3 P.S.I. under the pressure stamped on the tire, I could go with 41 P.S.I. or 3- Since 32 P.S.I. is 91% of 35 P.S.I. I could go with 40 P.S.I. which is 91% of 44 P.S.I.
I realize that I am not dealing with huge differences, but which is correct and why? T.I.A.
Eventhough the tread depth is good, I can't stand the tire noise.
The factory door sticker is set to OEM tire sizes when the car is manufactured. The factory tends to set pressures lower to promote a softer ride. Tires, on the other hand, generally offer better performance when pumped higher. So, there are trade-offs, relative on how you drive and use the car.
The key here is not to exceed the tire ratings. Softer tires are more forgiving on tire damage from road hazards. Harder tires can increase treadwear, traction and load capacity. However, they say too that harder tires can decrease snow traction (which really can be tire specific).
Of most importance is that all tires are not created equal. Some have different pressures for the front and rear. Tires indeed have that sweet spot psi, of which you can only find out by driving/testing.
Good luck and keep safe.
Do not worry about having different brand(s) of tires on your vehicle-if you were competitively racing-might make a difference. How did you like the Michelin X radials from Sam's. They appear similiar to the X-One's but the tread pattern is slightly different.
Boris
What you see will also dictate if you need an alignment. I don't bother with rebalancing them, although tire guy use to say the balance changes with miles. My experience is that the balance doesn't change enough to feel any difference. (an out of balance tire will cause a vibration)
The important points for good tires are as follows.
Inflation: Under normal circumstances keep them inflated to maybe 1 psi over the door pressure. Make sure you check pressure when your tires are COLD! Hot pressure will be several psi over cold pressure, and the tire is designed to take it. If you get stuck in mud or snow, letting a few pounds out of a tire never hurts and gives you a little more traction, just as long as you refill them IMMEDIATELY! Higher pressure will normally give slightly better fuel economy, but NEVER EVER go more than 5 psi above the door pressure for extended trips.
Rotation: Stick to the manufacturer's schedule. If you want, you can do it a little earlier, but make SURE you do it regularly!
Tread: When you go below 2-3mm of tread depth, replace it. Now. you run the risk of an explosion at highway speeds if you don't. If you can't replace them yet, stop and rest for a half-hour every 2-3 hours on highway trips (you should anyways) to allow them to cool.
If you have any questions, please contact me.
If you have disk brakes-follow the your vehicles instruction manual for torque settings.
Have anyone use this tire in the past? Please share your experience/opinion about it (dry/wet/snow). It will be nice if you can provide a comparison with other all-season tires. Thanks
Chris
Can anybody recommend a shop specializing in wheel alignment in the New York metro area? I need to fine-tune my alignment settings. I need to try a number of toe/camber/caster setting before I decide which one suits me best, and I find it very diffucult to find a competent shop. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!
thanks for any info:)