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Is your broken engine still visible ?
I will ride (not drive) to Miami soon :shades:
The engine is still at the dealership but it is not in Miami but in Melbourne, near Cape Canaveral.
Have a great time in Florida.
Getting rid of the car. Cannot afford to keep fixing the car
Buying a brand new car. with warranty
Little CRD went to technical inspection:
She needs new rear brakes and an oil seal change, the rest is perfect after all these years
Congratulations on a decade with the CRD! I hope my CRD lasts a decade as well!! Mine is a 2006 but I have had some problems in the 7 years I have owned it. First, I was VERY LUCKY that Chrysler gave me a new engine in 2008 even though I was a little beyond the substandard 36,000 mile warranty. The transmission was rebuilt at about 130,000 miles and I now have 100,000 miles on the Second Motor! My CRD still has all the OEM parts. I change the oil every 6,000 miles and use The Mobil One recommended in the owners manual. I use Diesel Kleen in every tank of fuel and Regularly Blow The Soot out of it by running it hard in spurts until it stops belching black out the exhaust. I love the CRD but have handed it down to my daughter. I would like to make a few of the after-market equipment additions that seem to serve some Forum contributors well. I plan to change the timing belt and water pump soon, so I decided I should make a few improvements to help the CRD keep up the good work.
I look forward to your response.
I forgot to ask the question that I had in mind when in my first reply. I would like your recommendation for the top few things I can do to help my CRD last another 100,000 miles.
Thanks,
Crash227
Apart from occasional cleaning of my K&N air filter, preventive replacement of the Parker-Racor 2micron diesel fuel filters (beige cartridge) every 50,000 Km and changing of the 5W-40 blended semi-synthetic oil every 15,000 miles, that's about all I do !
- I no longer use Shell Rotella engine oil because the pressurized air hose between the turbo and the intercooler was leaching a substance that made it collect dust.
- The Optima battery lasted 5 years then went 'Open' without a warning; simultaneously at least one of the diodes of the voltage regulator blew (these are built into the alternator) and the compound AC+DC voltage created a humming sound through the serpentine belt.
- Automatic transmission oil came with the truck and is still at level.
- Transfer case oil is at level.
- Rear differential is at level, only the front differential needs a new lip seal on the drive line (nose).
- I flushed the power steering fluid with ATF4+ to make it look cleaner.
- This truck shows no rust and never stayed under covered shelter, only my motorcycle deserves such treament
possibly a broken motor mount? or a vacuum leak?
In reverse the torque shifts direction
Watch the engine as someone else sits in it and puts it into reverse, see if it lifts on one side (motor mount)
see if it flexes any hoses that might cause a vacuum leak.
If all the above look ok, change your fuel filter and see if that clears it.
1. Provent system. (or you can make your own).
2. pick up a replace the fuel tank sending unit with one from an early 2000's dodge diesel pick-up. These have a fuel pump in them and puts positive pressure to the engine rather than the engine having to suck the fuel from the tank.
3. Green diesel eco-tune.
4. trans-go shift kit.
5. High flow muffler
6. when your door speakers start to vibrate with base, you can buy a bebuild kit for them on EBAY for about $18.
I would check the reverse clutch control(s), ie the specific solenoid valve(s) and wiring. Fluid level if incriminated applies to all gears. My dip-stick is often 1" above its seated position and this does not affect my transmission.
What problems? brakes, fuel injectors, mice chewin' on the wires, batteries goin' dead in cold weather, bad seals, EGR valve, wheel bearing and rear differential. I try to change oil every 3,000 miles, but it usually is about 5,000 before I get to it. Parking brakes are gone. I'm on my second set of tires and still have good tread. How long do they last?
I hope to make it to 10 years with the beast.
Put on a provent system (or you can make your own version) this gets alot of the crapy old oil out of the intake system. On my 06, I was already getting 30+ on the hwyway, the GD eco tune, did not seem to improve my MPG, but it did give me more power.
all around I am getting 26 to 27 mpg, on long trips I get 30-32 mpg.
bob
Put on a provent system (or you can make your own version) this gets alot of the crapy old oil out of the intake system.
I think I should try that. This vehicle turns good oil into liquid dirt in short order. There is a video on U-Tube showing one how to do this.
A while back I had the ceramic glow plugs replaced with steel glow plugs. They reflashed the computer at that time and it seems as though my mileage dropped. Is that possible? Then I wonder if the green diesel tune would bring the mileage back up :confuse:
10 years already ...
I was recently informed that after 10 years Jeep parts (brakes and chassis) are no longer stored when not simply declared unavailable!
In the EU Jeeps were sold (and powered) by Renault then came Chrysler and Daimler now Fiat.
Changing partnerships created a dilution of competence because pros can't afford time to learn hidden details of each manufacturer.
To make it short I had to wait 2 weeks for original brake parts and after one month my structural element hasn't arrived yet.
This should be another Happy New Year for CRD owners, I hope
After 5 weeks of uncertainty and total absence of support, the body shop finally used sheet metal to form my right door frame.
Caribou:
I'm right behind you with 9 years. Maybe, I'll finally get the Green Diesel tune this year and install the ProVent. I hope Fiat keeps supporting thiis vehicle. It does have an Italian engine so I'm hoping there is some kind of loyalty there.
You know - The door frame and brakes should be the same as a gas Jeep. There's still beau coup Jeep Liberty's running down the road. Parts should be available! You'd think the local junk yard would have had that door part. (Maybe - They don't have junk yards in France.)
Yah - I hope it's a good year for Jeep Liberty diesel owners. The tenth year may be my last. I want higher mileage.
We have fewer junk yards nowadays, scrap metals are recycled rapidly and Eastern Europe is absorbing the recent and better quality second-hand vehicles. Jeep Liberty trucks (and competitors) are sanctioned by a 6,000 Euro "ECO" or "Welcome" tax at the time of purchase.
I am refurbishing mine after 11 years of ownership because I have never found an equivalent.
My Provent still sits in my garage because the oil fume separator that came with the engine works perfectly.
My original (Optima) battery lasted 5 years; the replacement battery (Johnson Controls) lasted 6 years. Now I fitted a (Banner) AGM battery that needed trimming of the longitudinal clamping 'protrusions/feet' plus milling of the battery tray designed for coiled cells.
After all these years I lost my radio code and Jeep dealership wants to charge $100 to unlock a $50 radio.
Guess what
Hi all. Replaced the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, and water pump last summer at 100K miles by myself. Info on internet was most helpful, but it was still a difficult job. CRD runs great, but unfortunately, the Crown (brand) water pump failed at 114K. The timing belt was real loose and coolant leaked real fast. It was only a miricale the t-belt didn't slip and ruin the engine. I'm visiting CA, from WI, so I ordered a new w-pump & a thermostat, which had failed open a couple of K ago. I wire tied the T-belt to the crank pulley, Injector pump, and cam pulleys to preserve the timing. I cut the ear of the back timing cover off with a dremel, so I needn't remove the cam pulleys and avoided that involved procedure as the tools were back in Wis. The screws on the front cover hold the cut back piece in position. I used JB Weld to fill the cuts and stabilize that back cover piece in front of the water pump. Runs great with an OEM water pump, looking for 200K+.
wow, elder2, nice job, that is very mcguyver of you.
Our local Bio-diesel distillery ceased it's activity, declared bankruptcy and left a contaminated industrial site to those who had faith in recycling waste oil.
Do you have a similar situation in the US?
The wife and I are done with Chrysler and are satisfied with our Ford and Subaru products. I would have loved to have had that thing repaired but it was not to be. The treatment we received from Chrysler and the dealer in Florida have totally soured us toward anything Chrysler.
Caribou, I have a bit of feedback for you on your brake issue. Why use OEM parts? There are many good after market parts providers for Jeep that offer OEM and better quality parts for the Jeep. I used a good number of them on the Jeep including slotted and cross drilled rotors with Hawk disc brake pads.
Good luck to all of you.
In the EU there are few opportunities to obtain rebates, you only get what you pay for i.e. maximum public prices are applied everywhere to collect VAT (including on the cost of labor). In the past I used after market parts and my experience over the long term is when you keep your vehicle you will have less worries and be financially even with OEM parts. Now when you sell your old vehicle equipped with original parts this is a sign of confidence.
This year I tried TOYO Open Country A/T tires (225/75 R16) and found them excellent on dry pavement. I still have to find winter tires for severe weather conditions and deep snow; I fear none can beat the BFG A/T to get out of a parking spot once the snow plow covered half of the vehicle
Best of luck with your respective Libertys. Elder, the addition of a lift pump is a great idea and one should have been built onto the Jeep in the first place. Caribou, we tried Toyo high performance tires on my wife's last Chrysler. They were okay but bouncy when compared to the Pirelli tires they replaced. The issue with the VAT, well that is a problem. There has been talk of a VAT here in the U.S. from time to time and that is as far as it has gotten. Any attempt to implement a VAT here would more than likely lead to a mass lynching of Congress and the President. I would be one of the participants. I have found that most after market parts were as good and in some cases superior to the OEM parts and usually for less money.
I miss the Jeep at times still, especially all of that luscious torque. The Subaru is a decent car that could use a diesel. The four banger is adequate and the CVT helps make the most out of what the engine has to offer. Fuel economy is equivalent to the CRD. I know Subaru makes a diesel that is sold in the EU but we will not ever see it here in the United States. Great fuel saving technology like that is frowned upon here. I did consider a VW TDI but after doing some research concluded that the crankcase was too small. Had the crankcase held 50% more oil, I would have purchased a VW TDI in lieu of the Subaru.
Better_half's hand me down H3 just became a base Escape only add was ford window tinting already on it while my rubicon became a GX 460 for her.
Almost ten thousand miles on the escape in four months. One oil change by me at less than four thousand miles. The seats are comfortable and lifetime average of over twenty four miles per gallon. Fun to drive - miss the crd - no. Another mopar vehicle - never.
Happy Holidays to you.
I received a recall (from FIAT France / JEEP) saying there is a weak spot in the rear structure of my truck. Why not? After 12 years of flawless service FIAT thinks it's time for another round of buns and coffee.
I believe this car was a failed experiment on the part of Daimler Chrysler. (Now Fiat Chrysler?)
Too many problems. For my needs it was a mistake. A wise mechanic told me that a diesel car will cost you more up front and more for maintenance and repair. The Jeep convinced me he was right. Parts for the engine are very high. The mileage is not as good as a non 4 wheel drive vehicle. Too many idiosyncrasies. Unless you are an ace mechanic, I would not purchase one of these.
Good luck to you all,........adios.
I must fully agree with you willysjeep, it was quite an unfortunate marketing decision to "push" the performance of this robust engine not considering it could make it less reliable and that it could induce automatic transmission failures in the simplistic view of optimizing the use of it's torque.
Good luck with your Ford
Has anyone replaced the timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley on the CRD?
I would like to know which tooling works best for setting the timing positions.
I'm thinking of the Bates timing kit "gat4945a" offered on Ebay.
Dose any one still have their CRD on the road? Mine is at 120k, 2006 she needs some work done. Possibly the bearings and a exhaust leak (minor into cab). At this point I'm deciding whether to fix and keep on keeping on or to sell (possibly part out).
Any opinions? Or CRD collectors with help on how go about this?