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Comments
If you have a clearcoat paint, you may want to also put a layer of clear over the color when you are done.
again - Good Luck!
Thanks for your advice.
I've purchased the Erazer clay. They don't accept credit cards directly. Something whent wrong when I attempted to follow their link to a 3rd party credit card payment processor, so I had to send them check after receiving the product and the invoice.
Yesterday I've tried this thing. I'm really satisfied with the result, though it rquired a lot of elbow grease. I was claying car first time. It looks like it's a work for an anal-retentive type. Though I takes some level of anal-retentivenes to be bothered about those tiny brown spots on my car's paint, that bothered me enough to seek advise here ;-)
They recommended to work on small area ot once. Given my previous paint care experience using wax-cleaner and stuff like that, I though the "samll area" would be like fender, door, half of the hood, etc. It appeared I had to work on 6"x6" or 8"x8" areas to get good results. I have completed the work with one 2oz piece of the clay.
I wonder, if claying a car is always so tedious job? Does the size of a clay bar matter, i.e. is 4oz bar easier to use than 20z bar? How Erazer compares to other brands of clay? I saw Dura-Glo clay in the JCWitney catalog. They give 8oz of clay for the same price as 4oz of Erazer.
Thanks!
Tom
My car was parked under a tree last week
and it was covered with some residue from
the tree and lots of bird droppings.
I washed the car within 2 or 3 days of this,
but yellowish spots are still
visible even though I tried very hard to clean
them with hot water and car detergent. It seems
like this thing has penetrated into the paint
and I do not know how to clean it!
It is very frustrating ..the car is just a
couple of months old! any suggestions ??
Good luck!
Thanks!!
Thanks, Jeanette
Something HAS to touch your car to wash it, and in this case is is high pressure water. It will grind all the dirt on your car into your paint before it slides off, and the high pressure can damage window seals.
In addition, the detergent is so strong in car washes (To clean in one pass) it will blister your skin, and will strip every bit of wax off your car.
Regular car washes are even worse, as the pads grind the dirt from the previous cars over your paint while they strip your wax. If you have a nice car that you care about - PLEASE don't take it anywhere near a car wash (or pressure washer).
If you wash it yourself weekly, it only takes a few minutes and your paint will thank you, especially when it is resale time.
In the winter I use the DIY wand washers, rinse only to get off the salt. Yeah high pressure water probably does some damage but salt will give your vehicle religion.
Thanks
Thanks,
reelsole@yahoo.com
Some chemical in the detergent has reacted with the anodize or clear coat on the trim. You may need to replace it. You could try treating it with wax or some products with silicones to see if it can bring back the finish. Good Luck!
The most important single thing to car maintenance is to do it regularly, NOT just when the car is dirty. I vacuum, clean the windows, detail the interior and wash both our cars every weekend, whether they "need it" or not. Since there is usually little to do, it goes really fast, and the cars always look great! If you let your car get really grungy, you will keep putting it off further and further. Just DO it!
Thanks again!!!
2)Wax Frequency - Since you are using good 'ol Zip wax, there is certainly no need to re-wax after washing. Even Carnuba wax should last about 2-3 months between re-waxing.
3)What to use - After 30 years of happiness with carnuba based products (Eagle One, Mequiar's, 3M, Wax Shoppe) I have changed to the Zaino polymer products as mentioned by pjyoung above. I don't want to sound like an ad or to open a can of worms, but I feel they are far superior to waxes. The shine is much better, dirt, bugs, sap, etc. doesn't stick and the time between re-polishing is much longer. Please go to www.zainobros.com and to the Zaino topic here for much more information.
Also for some first hand results see: http://www.geocities.com/newwestd/Zainoat3mo.html
and
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7501/Feb.html
Have Fun!
After taking a close look at the scratch, I am confused. Is it possible that the paint can be on the back side of a clear plastic? It is because the end of the scratch look like a crack in a clear plastic. However, someone said the fender flare from the dealer part department is unpainted black.
Is there any good suggestion of how to fix the scratch of this depth and nature.
Desmond
I haven't tried the Zaino product yet, but plan on trying their product when my current supply runs out. I use Meguiars Car Wash, Gold Class Clear Coat Liquid Wax, and Endurance Tire Protectant Gel. Meguiars is the best I have ever used, but I have read so many testimonials on these forums praising Zaino, I am going to give it a try (got my curiosity going).
Has anyone else used Meguiars Endurance tire gel? It is by far the best tire care product I have ever used. Looks great and lasts much longer than other products. How is Zaino's tire protectant compared to Endurance?
Also I 've noticed that there are a coupld of car waxes that come in colors (white for white cars, blue for blue cars etc)> Does anyone use these. Do you recommend them on white cars.
Thanks for your help.
Don't know about colored waxes, but with so many differing shades of red/blue or even white, I'd be leary of them
I have tried them, and colored waxes are just a scam. They make ABSOLUTELY no difference. The stuff in the cracks is still white! Also - they are usually poor quality waxes to boot. If you want to use wax, use Eagle One or Meguiar's gold. If you want the best, easiest finish, use Zaino.
You are halfway there to keeping your car looking good - washing it every week so that dirt and stains cannot work their way into the paint. I live in So. Calif., and prefer a white car as it stays much cooler than darker cars. White also looks cleaner most of the time, except for beige colored cars that NEVER seen to look dirty.
Now that you have a nice new car, treat it to a clay job to take off all the dirt, grime and pollutants (YES- even on a new car) and leave the paint ultra-smooth. Go to www.erazer.com for the full story. Erazer is one brand - there are several. Then - after proper claying and washing, apply a good wax or polymer finish to the car. I have started using the Zaino polymer the first of this year, and believe that it is the best shine and protection you can get. Go to www.zainobros.com for more info, and check into the very active Zaino forum here for lots of advice and happy users.
With that kind of protection and regular cleaning, your white car will stay white as long as you have it.
ONE possible problem area is the urethane rubber bumpers. For some reason, the urethane can interact with the paint, and cause slight yellowing over time. This has been metioned on many different makes of cars. Perhaps they have solved this in newer cars. If it does happen, only a re-paint can fix it.
I had to have another car clayed a couple of years ago to remove railroad dust. The car had sat about 20ft from the Long Island Railroad for over a month. The surface felt like sandpaper. The clay did an amazing job.
I most certainly wouldn't use the Body Scrub if the car had imbedded railroad dust, but the Body Scrub sure seemed to do everything clay could.
Has anyone else used this stuff?
For polymers, i'd sugest nu-finish, or even better, the 3m products.
dave
As I recall, the comments were mostly less than positive, but you can check it out yourself.
I've never tried it.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
To go from being a casual car caretaker to doing all that is recommended to get the best results with Zaino can be a little overwhelming. However, the recommendations are equally applicable to all other products: from use high-quality towels to wash, dry, apply product, and wipe off, to starting the initial use of a product by washing with Dawn, to claying. It is my recollection that the three steps of the Mother's products I used before I found Zaino had wiping off product after each step, while the core of the Zaino process, applying the Z1 PolishLok followed directly by applying Z2, or Z3, or Z5 WITHOUT wiping off the Z1, makes the Zaino process considerably shorter. Go figure.
Vern
daverose: true, it's probably the same time if you do z1,z3,z5 but I was trying to be a good boy and do several alteranting layers of z3 and z5 as was reccomended.
I really liked meguiar's gold--seemed to do a great job on my cars. m3 scratch remover really workd but takes tons of time to do right. But it leaves a glassy surface, it's great.
dave
Regarding dhanley's so-called "test" - there has never been any doubt cast that Zaino lasts MUCH longer than any carnuba wax, something that the "test" seems to deny. Now, I KNOW I had to re-wax our cars every 2-3 months with Meguiar's, 3M, Eagle One and other waxes to keep the shine and beading, and I KNOW that it has been 6 months with Zaino and they still look and bead great. Sorry dhanley - I ain't buying it.
If anyone out there is in any doubt, just go the the Zaino forum and read all the postings from new and satisfied users. dhanley has been the only one that I can recall over the last 1-1/2 years that I have been reading it that didn't see any difference. THAT is why I switched.