By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
So a word to the wise- before investing big bucks in a high-mileage car, make sure you know exactly what you own.
with 40,000 miles) and have not had any problems.
I read in a post that Toyota recalled these SUVs to replace the head gaskets. Since I am not having any problems - would it be best to leave it alone or go ahead and get the head gasket changed? I don't want them to open it up and in the long run, create problems I don't have.
It starts perfectly in hot or normal weather and starts perfectly in cold weather. In Chicago that means down to -20F. A car that will start the first time, every time, in frigid weather, is a wonderful thing to have.
But the car had a peculiarity. When the temperature was between 40F and 50F it would not start. The situation is further described by pointing out that the engine turned over without hesitation, the lights worked, everything was ok but there was no sound of firing! Or, better to say, there was only the occasional sound of firing. Once started the engine could be run and restarted without difficulty. This last fact differs from your situation but so far this sounds very much like your problem.
I resolved that this starting problem was related to temperature and that pointed to the cold start injector. This device is designed to give an extra dose of gas when the engine is cold. Without it a car will not start in cold weather. The injector is triggered by a temperature sensor that is connected to it via a wire harness. The harness is also temperature sensitive. All of these must work correctly or your engine will not start.
Solution one: I jiggled the wire harness. The engine then started in cool weather but the solution was not permanent. I found that I had to do it again every few days. A new harness is not available for purchase and would be costly to install.
Solution two: I started the car with several repeated, short applications of the starter. This means turning the key and holding it for about 1 1/2 seconds then repeating the action immediately. Three or four of these will always start my car.
I should point out that for the last two years the problem has gone away.
Solution three: I would like to add another possibility. A hot engine that is turned off for several minutes, like while you were in the store, can percolate gas from the injectors to the cylinders. When you return the engine may be flooded, that is, too much gas in the cylinder. This condition would work itself out by waiting for the gas to evaporate. But I must say that this would not be related to the first trip of the day. Instead, it would get worse as the engine got warmer so I don't think this is your problem. The solution to this would be to change your sparkplugs and distributor if they are old (60,000 miles)and to learn the flood starting procedures in the owners manual.
Let me know if this works!
Recently I've had problems shifting into 1st and 2nd gear also reverse. Also, overdrive doesnt always work when I push button - it sometimes goes in by itself.
I took it to Volvo dealer they said its my synchros in 1st and 2nd gear and I should replace entire transmission ($2200). I took it to a friend at a Honda dealership who checked it, added fluid, etc and said just have the synchros replaced. Took it to AAMCO Transmission and 1st time around mechanic couldnt find a transmission problem but asked me to leave car overnight for them to drive some more. Instead, I took the car back 2 days later and drove w/the mechanic. He said it wasn't a trans problem but probably a clutch problem. After returning to shop he checked internal fluids, etc then said the problem is clutch hydraulics repair for $511.
Do I believe AAMCO guy and have the clutch hydraulic work done?
How is AAMCO's reputation?
Or should I just get rid of the car?
You may want to take a look at this topic:
Clutch Questions (Topic #170)
You might find some helpful information in the posts there. Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Bruce
At this point my highest mileage vehicle is a '96 Chrysler Town & Country minivan with only 70,000 miles. This vehicle is paid for and has required a fair amount of repair work in the last year (I blame that on the fact that it is a Chrylser product). I have no thoughts of getting rid of the vehicle for a long time.
As an old German mechanic that worked on my high mileage Mercedes used to say, "cars don't vear oot, parts vear oot!" I have kept that thought in mind many times as I have been tempted to give up a vehicle when facing a repair estimate.
Obviously, if you lose confidence in a vehicle and fear being stranded, it is time to give it up.
Following is a system my father used for deciding when it was time to get rid of a vehicle. He would always repair a vehicle until his total repair costs equaled half of the purchase price of the vehicle. Once he hit that magic number, he would literally have the car towed to a salvage yard when the next thing went wrong.
I have used this same formula for both new and used cars myself. Let me say that with the cost of cars today you can do a lot of repair work before it adds up to half the purchase price.
Sorry for the long post, I blame it on a mind with a jumble of random thoughts!
Problem 1 - 99k: bad synchronizers in the manual transmission...covered under extended warranty by 1k miles...phweew!
Problem 2 - 201k: bad primary ignition coil, replaced valve stem seals while we were at it because of oil burning on startup
So aside from normal wear and tear stuff, those have been the only problems.
I'm graduating from college this December, and they want me to buy a new car ASAP, but I'd like to hold off on buying one for as long as possible because it's still a good car.
So what's everyone else's thoughts? This car has a track record of having one major problem every 100k miles, so theoretically it should be good for another 100k miles (I know that's optimistic! ;-) It has way more sqeaks and jitters than it used to (obviously), and it has a little bit of rust around one wheel well, but the engine and drivetrain is still strong and solid as a rock, and most of its miles are highway.
Will it hold together for another 50-100k or so, or will it start to become a money pit ???
Looses 1 - 1.5 quarts of oil every oil change (3k mi.)
Transmission is still going well, though the fluid had never been changed when i bought the car, and i never had it changed.
I would doubt another 50 K miles. At some point you will need CV joints,shocks, brakes, and tires - not all at the same time,within 50K miles - even if nothing major goes wrong. Those components together add up to more than the value of your car..... which won't be worth a penny more because you did any or all of them.
I've had 2 cars that were higher mileage...a 1968 Dart I bought at 253K miles that I still have, and a 1979 Chrysler Newport that I bought at 230K miles and quit driving when I got the Monte Carlo...got rid of it at around 249K miles. Neither one was as trouble-free as that Monte, though!
I see quite a few Darts on the road considering how old they are, and most are used as daily drivers.
Last time I was there the upstairs part was an Asian food store.
He has pics of the car plus letters from Chrysler complimenting him on his extended mileage.
If you live in the area you may have seen him in the Star Ledger. His informal election poll makes it to the local section every four years.
and drove for a couple of years. It currently has
17000 miles on it as it's been in storage for
nearly six years. All fluids were replaced when it
entered the garage in 1994, as well as fuel
stabilizer the following year. It gets started
about every other month but hasn't been on the
street in over five years. What maintenance
problems can I anticipate next Spring when I plan
on putting it back on the street as my primary
transportation vehicle?
clunking sound from the passenger side whenever
I make slow left turns, there is nothing wrong
with the car. My mechanic has no idea what's
causing the clunking sound, but he assures me the
car is otherwise fine. After many years in the
Arizona sun, the clear coat is peeling and theres
a lot of scratches and dings. Interior is fine.
I have been debating whether to keep the car or
get a new one (probably 2000/01 Accord). I'm not
sure what to do, and to be honest the car has a
lot of sentimental value to me. We have 3 cars
in our family and the thought of buying a new
car and keeping this one would not make economic
sense. So, I would appreciate hearing your
thoughts on what I should do:
a. Keep the '88 Accord
b. Buy a 2000/2001 Accord
Good luck and have fun!
Its still running perfect and has never given me one minute of trouble! Theres no way that im taking the 600 bucks the dealer offered for it. It still has another 50k miles or more left in it! This one is being retired to dad as a backup truck.
right about the car's value. I don't think
I would try to trade or sell the car. If I
did end up buying a new Accord, I was thinking
of donating the car to a good charity. Maybe I
would get more $ in tax savings than trying to
sell/trade car? What do you think? I tell you
the more I think about it, the harder it is for
me to part ways with this old beater. What can
I say? The car has a great deal of sentimental
value to me. I guess I can keep the thing until
the wheels fall off! Thanks again for your input.
I am curious, how much did the dealer offer you on your trade? Cash is always important, but I wonder if you would come out ahead in this situation donating a car like that to a charity and writing off a higher value on your taxes?
Great job! Let us know when you hit 300,000 with your Neon!!!
We had a mechanic working on the car when we got it at 86,000 miles, unfortunatly, at 97,000 miles the timing belt snapped and cracked the head and bent 12 valves. We had a recon head and new valves and never used that mechanic again, who was supposed to be checking the timing belt on each 3,000 miles service.
We now take the car to a local Honda dealership every 3,000 miles for oil changes and regular check-ups. The car runs great !!! I mean, its like a new car, very little wear on the leather driving seat, thats it ! (even with my fat [non-permissible content removed])
I my wife drives the car 120 miles a day and is has not let us down since the timing belt.
I reckon we are well on the way for 250k, but I don't want to curse myself too much :-)
Well done Honda !!
I promise you, however, that I will NOT EVER hit 300k, or 200k, or even 100k on my Neon!! I don't ever plan to keep a car as long as I kept that Sentra again...and I have serious doubt that any Chrysler product could do it anyway!!! For me, the Sentra's record will never be challenged.
~Jevin111
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
The grand Am expired this morning. Since June/July its been running rough
when cold (a chronic problem the last few years. I'd had my fathers friend
fix it a few times - the injector and plug on one of the cylinders keeps
fouling, etc.). When it started happening again, and since the car was in
the late 130's in mileage, i said screw it, no more money goes into it, and
planned on getting rid of it in April of '01 cause the
registration/inspection expires in March and the camry 3 yr loan is paid off
in April also, and I figured when the daycare center is closed due to snow
and one of us goes to work in the snowstorm they'd use the xxxxbox in the
snow for one last winter.
So its running rough and coughing all summer. I go to get the oil changed
in early summer and the plug screw threads are disintegrating and the drive
thru place refused to do it. So' since it burns a little oil, and the
headgasket is leaking, I've been topping off. So as of today its been
11,000 miles since an oil and filter (real sludge at the bottom of the
dipstick) - but again, since the car is history inb March/April, and it is
not a primary car that Bob willl not enter, I have not cared.
About two weeks ago, the fan for the radiator began to not turn off when the
car was turned off, even when the engine was cold. What i would do is drive
it around the block for a few minutes, then it would turn off when i then
shut the car off (obviously a switch is shot, it does not run off the fuses,
i checked). About a week ago the exhaust pipes started hanging lower.
Mary toook it to work yestersay (I was home with Bob with the Camry and
car seat). On the way there, she made a turn and the engine got real loud,
but the mufflers were hanging no lower than before. For the second time
that day the fan would not turn off when she got to work. She goes in does
her work, comes out and luckily the car starts. She goes to the supermarket
and for a third time that day, the fan will not turn off. She gets home,
the engine is loud, BUT, the fan shuts off in the driveway. At this point I
cansee the life support devices about to be turned off.
This morning I go out and get the papers and hear how loud a car came be
without the muffler connected. At the paper place the fan is off. On the
way back, the entire exhayst system drops to the road from the midpipe and
is being dragged behind me. I pull into the driveway, shut off the engine
and the fan stayed on forever more. I discussed it with Mary and we
decided its new car time. So while I could still start it before the fan
kills the battery, i moved it diagonally in the top of the driveway so it'll
be easier for the flatbed to come get it tomorrow without blocking the
street with the truck. At this writing the ever running cooling system fan
as fully drained the battery.
I've emptied it of 11 years of junk and found some interesting stuff ( a
small purse Mary forgot she had, among other junk), $2.79 in coins, $3.50
in Parkway tokens (all under the drivers seat, except for a dime). About
145,000 miles. And of couse the fuel level is well more then 3/4 full.
Thinking about Toyota Sienna, or Subaru Legacy.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Your host, Bruce
\
For example:I owned an 86 Olds Calais that I bought with 21,000 miles on the odometer when the car was EIGHT years old from the same dealer who sold it new. I drove it another 34,000 miles in 6 years and was offered $500.00 for it I kept records of EVERY receipt for every oil change, drop of gas,and repair that it ever needed.[and the oil was changed every 3 months regardless of mileage!]Another dealer offered me the same amount at 41,000 miles 2 years before that and never even DROVE it!AND had had an identical model on their lot 2 weeks before with TWICE the mileage and sort of ratty offered at $4995.00!
I wound up giving it to my Mother for money I borrowed and it is STILL running as well at 65,000 as it did when I owned it.I did that because I had never owned a new car in my life and felt that at 43 it was time before I got pulled off the road for being too old to drive.I got a modern equivalent of the Calais in size and equipment-a 99 Cavalier for which I paid $11,808 in June of 99. I also have a 63 Valiant that I have owned for 20 years. I paid more for the rebuilt engine than I did for the car.It's value to ME is greater than what I could sell it for.What's it worth? Doesn't matter.That repair amount to "value" yardstick is a myth.You cannot spend repairing or refurbishing an old one[if it's been cared for and if it's showing 200,000 miles it has been]than you would pay in purchase price, higher registration and insurance fees taxes and interest charges over 3 to 5 years time.If you want a new car buy one, but don't use high mileage or repairs as an excuse. Just repeat:$2000.00 or $20,000? Which one sounds better? For me I would deeply regret letting either of my cars go: I am a car nut and these are my kids. The only thing that eased my transition from the Cavalier to the Calais, was knowing the Olds was still in my family-probably the first car my Mother has ever enjoyed driving!Check back in 20 years I'll still have the Cavalier.I won't spend more money than that on a new one period. It's obscene. Enjoyed all the posts people.Thanks for letting me add my 2c. Dave
I enjoyed your post, thanks.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
So, the real question with mileage gets down to how many more things can you expect to go wrong given the mileage on the car besides the current cost of the contemplated repair.
In my opinion, the Ford Taurus is a perfect example of this question. They have a propensity for going through transmissions about every 45,000. So, do you replace the trans at 90,000 or do you buy a new car? If this was a Jetta, I would tell you hands down to replace the transmission and expect good service after wards. However, Ford Taurus will not give you that. Shortly after replacing that trans, you can expect to replace the engine, steering pump, brake master cylinder, airconditioning pump, computer and a whole host of other things. In case you are wondering, my Taurus has 186,000 miles on it and I have replace all of the afore mentioned items and two more transmissions.
As a second comparision, my Subaru Outback with 90,000 miles has not had a singe repair done to it and only normal maintenance.
Thus, I think it gets back to not the cost of the current repair and the cars resale value, like you mention, but as to whether you can expect reliable service after that repair or just more repairs.
Later, :-)
I hate car payments and I have a cheap streak as wide as a Lincoln Navigator. You are sooo correct re:Taurus and RE-repairs,but as I said I am so blinded by an emotional loyalty to my cars, I keep hoping that next repair will be the one that "fixes" everything. I wish I could be like my Dad and look at them as A to B transportation, but have been a car fiend since a small kid so a lot of logic goes out the window.
Great post. You gave it a much broader and more rational sense of proportion. I guess you need to start out with a solid vehicle in the first place,one that is worthy of the passion and it's faults are balanced against the joy of driving it or if you're going the fix it all the time find an old one to refurbish that isn't a critical part of your transportation plans.Thanks for the insight.
Any idea what a wrecked 89 accord with this damage is worth to salvage yard with everything perfect except the above mentioned parts.
I think that is where you will get the best responses.
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Best of Luck! :-)
Problems with keeping:
1) Door dent requires new (or salvaged) door.
2) Tail light was the big old one-piece Century-Star-Trek-Lander light which costs about 600 bucks.
3) No collision insurance, so it'd all be O-O-P.
Needs new brakes, tranny starting to feel lurchy, and to be honest I have no pride of ownership in it any more.
I think it needs to be retired from my life, but do I just drive it to a salvage yard and take their 75 bucks, or is there a better way to go? If a dealer took it in trade, would he actually give me anything for it, or just work it into the "price"? Or, per the title of this conversation, are there really charities which would like to have it?
Thanks and regards,
Scott
Make step daughter (she let it cook) and fake mechanic (sounds like he botched the job) responsible for the 'bird. Get a "good" mechanic to evaluate the condition of the sunbird- that one is tough to call.
Later, Al