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Old Cars--When to call it quits

gusgus Posts: 254
A semi-continuation of Welcome Conference Topic
#380
, "Donating Your Clunker to Charity." A place
for you to ponder the fate of your clunker.
Sometimes it's hard to say good-bye to our cars.
Do you donate it, scrap it, or plant it in the
ground?
«134

Comments

  • bchaubchau Posts: 8
    My 200K miles 1980 Corolla is used as a backup car when I need to drive into a questionable neighbourhood, left weeks/days in the dusty airport's lot, and when my new car goes into the detailing shop.
  • ama12ama12 Posts: 2
    Any advice you could give me about whether to junk or sell or keep my 87 Chrsyler New Yorker. 119,000 mi. The interior is nearly perfect. The body is fair (one dent in front bumper), but the car needs a whole new transmission built. ($1116). Also is my mechanic ripping me off with this estimate?
    Money (or lack thereof) is a big consideration.
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    Transmissions are no small-ticket item. Your mechanic is probably not ripping you off, although I'm not familiar with your particular model, so I can't say with all certainty. Find out how much it costs to rebuild your old one (including removal and installation) vs. what it costs to buy a factory rebuilt or even new transmission for your car. You have more than one option when it comes to repairing your transmission.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    ama12,
    Kelly Blue Book rates it $3,900 retail for excellent running condition, or $1,000 as trade-in for fair (but running) condition. I don't think you should fix it, since it would cost more than it might be worth after you fixed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I agree with Quad, with the possible exception of installing a used transmission and spending a total of no more than $500 for used parts and labor complete. Why put a new trans in an old car?
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    That's a good point. Often times, putting in a replacement transmission from a salvaged car is cheaper, and more reliable than a rebuild.
  • ama12ama12 Posts: 2
    Thanks, everyone, for your input. I actually got another estimate for the installation of a used transmission. $550. Is this even worth it?
  • I've got an '86 Park Ave 3.8L V6 that's about to hit the 250 000 mile mark. All I've ever done to it is replaced the ball joints, brakes, timing chain & gears, and a couple lifters, and a tune-up (plugs, O2 sensor, EGR, trans filter) about 75 000 miles ago. Anybody know how long these things can go? What can I expect for my next major repair?
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    ama12,
    It could be worth it if it is decent. The price sounds fair, but do you know what you are getting? Everything involves some risk, but it is a safe bet you are going to need transportation of some kind, and it is certainly cheaper to repair than buy, regardless of what book values are, etc.

    Dexter8th,
    I don't know. What kind of fluids do you use and when do you change them? What are your driving habits? That's very impressive mileage. You must be doing more than a little bit right...250,000 miles on the original tranny? Take it to Buick. They should just give you a new one for being so loyal.
  • I'm almost embarassed (sp?) to say what fluids I use! I try to stick with Quaker State when I can, but sometimes price is a factor. Loyalty does have a price...it's usually posted on the window underneath a list of available options!

    My folks have a 92 Park Ave with half as many miles and have had nothing but problems (electrical).
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    Dexter8th, you are fortunate, and surely one who does not abuse your car. Surely you have replaced a water pump or two. At this mileage, new struts (Monroe is good and less expensive than GM) would make the old Buick seem like a new car...but perhaps not a wise expense based on "projected life" of this car. Leaky fuel injectors and failed boots on the axle CV joints should have been problems five years ago. The transmissions in these cars don't have a good reputation but yours is clearly an exception. I would not worry about the transmission but neither would I tempt fate by allowing a 17-year-old to begin driving it.

    I would start making payments to a new car fund and be ahead of the game if the Buick happens to endure for a few more years.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think 250K is plenty of miles for a car. It's time to look for another car, and start looking tomorrow..the reason I say this is that at that excessive mileage, failures will be sudden and no doubt of a catastrophic nature. Of course, if you don't mind riding it to the end, and you have a backup, or as suggested, have put money aside or arranged financing, no problemo...just drive it, because it's not worth much to sell anyway.
  • Thanks for the advice. I had been looking at replacing my buick for the past few months, fearing that something expensive will happen soon. Today I sent my faithful companion on to (hopefully) greener pastures and came home with a '91 Bonneville SSE. Pretty impressed so far, but I'll be happy if it's even half the car my buick was. It went to a small town dealer, so I'm hoping to be able to keep tabs on it and see just how long it will go. I drove that car for five years, so I really feel like I've lost a friend. But the more I drive the Bonne the quicker I'm getting over my loss!
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    Have fun, and don't collect green stamps with your SSE!
  • dotdot Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 ford escort the head gasket
    has a crack and the engine has a crack
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You have a problem! Best thing would be to try and find a good cheap used engine and someone who will install it for a reasonable fee, but I certainly wouldn't spend more than...oh, maybe $1,000 to get it back on the road. If there's more wrong, like bad body or needs tires and brakes, etc., you might think about retiring it altogether.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    Sounds like normal repairs for any high mileage vehicle. Just the nature of long term car ownership.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    You left out, batteries, water pumps, fan clutch, radiator and thermostat, transmission seal, ball joints, disc rotors and wheel bearings!
  • dorndorn Posts: 1
    I have an 88 Mercury Tracer automatic with 105,000 miles- mostly short trips. It uses about 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Oil consumption has been gradually increasing over the past 15,000 miles. How many more miles should I be able to get out of this car? What does the oil burning mean for the future?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It's just normal wear and tear...I don't know where Americans got the idea that a little oil-comsumption is bad...it really isn't as long as it doesn't get excessive...so unless plugs are fouling or drivers behind you are shaking their fists and choking, a quart per 1,000 isn't something to worry about at all for those miles...your engine is about 2/3 through it's normal predictable lifespan, so it's doing okay.

    if you start getting say a quart every second fillup, and you're not leaking, then you might start thinking about a rebuild or a replacement car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Oh, mark, to answer your question...yes, I sort of agree, that at 165,000 miles it's within reason that those parts you mentioned would fail...you know, some cars do a bit better, some a bit worse...your repair list looks a tad excessive, but given the mileage, not all that out of the ordinary.

    Those older 'sporty' domestics you mention are rugged cars, no doubt about it, but don't expect 1990s refinement, economy and driveability, because you won't find it in the old-timers. Braking and steering are a bit scary.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    dorn,
    I agree with mr_shiftright not to worry about the oil consumption. Personally, I would be more concerned about the automatic transmission. There is really no way to know, except you said it was 105,000 miles of mostly short trips. That means lots of gear shifting. The friction lining on the wet clutches wears away eventually, on some cars faster than others. In any case, you seem to have had decent service life overall. But climbing out on a limb to answer your question of how long, and with a caveat that I don't have a crystal ball to look into, I'd say no more than 20 to 25 thousand miles for the tranny.
  • ylekiot2ylekiot2 Posts: 1
    I have an 84 Maxima with the inline six that has 188,000 miles on it. The body is in good shape, and it doesn't burn more than a half a quart over 3,000 miles. However there is some electrical problems (no turn signals or interior lights) and the calipers on all four wheels need a rebuild. The transmission and engine have never needed any major work. The engine I am not worried about, it's the transmission and other items that I am concerned with. Any ideas or comments? Is it time to call it quits when your car this old needs this type of work and isn't worth much on resale value?
  • jfee1jfee1 Posts: 1
    Has anyone ever gotten a film on the inside windows of their car??? Where is it coming from???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    About the Nissan....188,000 miles is the "end-life" of a car, definitely....but no sense selling it if it's running well...just don't put any money in it, aside from minimal maintenance, and once something big goes, just walk away...the car certainly doesn't owe you anything....given the extreme mileage, you might want to have it safety checked right now as well, especially for cracks in the suspension, cracking fuel injection lines, leaking brake hydralics, things like that.
  • mikefm39mikefm39 Posts: 4
    I have a 1991 Isuzu Amigo XS 4WD with 119000 miles. I've had the car for two years, it's up to date on maintenance and have never had any major problems with it. Anyone have an idea on what the expected life would be before any major repairs start popping up?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Only a psychic could answer that but the usual signs of engine wear are oil consumption and overheating...most accessories such as water pumps and alternators and such are due about now, so you might keep an eye out for that. You could also change the belts and hoses, and if the battery is more than 4 years old, change that, too...and a trans service and radiator flush wouldn't hurt either.
  • leedbrleedbr Posts: 1
    I have had several rebuilt drivetrains in the past
    without much luck. They just don't last the way
    the original equipment does. The best way to
    rebuild is to buy original factory equipment built
    to spec. Those drivetrains last.

    The other questions you still have to ask yourself
    are whether the rest of the major systems are also
    going to outlast your payback period on the replaced drivetrain.
  • rlevittrlevitt Posts: 1
    I have a '92 Taurus LX with 3.8l engine and ABS.
    57000 miles and have had some expensive repairs (including head gasket}. Now my brake pedal sticks intermittently and they say it's the "brake boost" costing about $500 with labor. Is this the beginning of the end?






















































































































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  • gchernya1gchernya1 Posts: 43
    Yes, you are at the milege on which most original owners sell Ford Taurus, just check regional classifieds.
  • pbb98pbb98 Posts: 19
    rlevitt,
    Based on what I have seen and read, the 3.8 liter engine is not a very good one as far as reliability goes. The Taurus as well as the Windstar have been plagued with problems with this engine to the point where there is a class action suit against Ford about it. The AXOD transmissions (which I assume your Taurus has since my '92 Sable GS has it) have also been problematic and the extended warranty that Ford put on them has expired. As far as the brakes go, that is one of the few things I have had problems with on my Sable. The rear calipers needed replacement recently and managed to chew through a set of pads and a rotor. The rotors also seem like they are in constant need of resurfacing. I had this done a year ago and it has needed it for a few months now, but I am putting it off as long as I can stand it. My car has 120000 miles, so your Taurus may well have lots of life left.
  • tnamantnaman Posts: 1
    I've been considering buying a 1981 Trans Am. I don't know a lot about the car and I was wondering if anyone has any info on them. I.e. reliability, general problems, major problems, performance. Stuff like that. If 1981 is indeed part of the generally poor '80's GM product line, how far back do you have to go to find a relaible Trans Am/Camaro/Firebird. I love the 2nd gen body style. Any help ios appreciated.
  • mminerbimminerbi Posts: 88
    I have a '85 Olds 98 Brougham (first front wheel drive 98, same as Buick Electra/Park Avenue)with 131,000 miles on it. The question is should I keep it or scrap it. Some considerations:

    * I'm the second owner; purchased it in '88 with 31,500 miles on it. The car has been maintained very well and driven with care. It's now a spare car in the family.

    * Near perfect body and interior.

    * Repaired transmission at 88,000 miles; it's shifting well, but these early GM FWD 4 speed automatics aren't the most durable transmissions.

    * Had rack & pinion replaced under extended warranty, but it needs it again. Cost $500.

    * A/C is original. It works fine, but it makes a sound that suggests tired bearings. Figure the A/C compressor will go by next summer.
    Can't live without A/C June - September in Maryland.

    * Timing chain is original.

    * The suspension and electrical system are fine, but the mileage is a consideration for these and other components.

    Should I scrap this car it or repair/maintain it? What is the life expectancy of this vintage 3.8 V6 engine (the new GM 3.8's are exremely durable and reliable, but numerous improvements have been made since '85)?
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    Yes, Mminerbi, the Buick is my car. I responded to your note because the body and interior were in excellent condition ... and this car is mechanically very similar to yours. My situation probably differs from yours mainly in that I do my own maintenance & repair work.

    You make good points as to the timing chain & sprockets. Indeed, a replacement "kit" consists of the chain and both sprockets. The sintered iron sprockets are indeed better than the plastic or phenolic materials. These parts are not expensive; labor is the "kicker" here. At failure, some cars can indeed damage valves and pistons ...I thought the 3.8 GM engine was not vulnerable to this damage but I will defer to your mechanic. My point regarding frequent oil changes has to to with the fact that the timing chain area is especially prone to accumulate oil sludge which prevents lubrication of the parts, leading to failure. Frequent oil changes (~3000 mi) minimize sludge and improve the life of these components. Again, if your contact has seen failures on this engine type in spite of (1) frequent oil changes and (2) engine never having been overheated, perhaps you should go ahead. (And please let me know!)

    Suspension softness ...I agree wholeheartedly with each of your points on this. (You and are probably in a minority on this point among owners of large GM cars.) My old Buick, fortunately, does have the "handling package" which, I believe, consists of slightly different spring rates and shock calibrations. The Monroe "Sensa-Tracks," installed at ~100K-miles, seemed to restore the handling and ride very nicely.

    One thing I failed to mention earlier; boots on the CV joints are likely near failure if you haven't replaced them already. It's my impression this car is no better or worse than other front-wheel drives in this regard. The CV joints are not bad to fail unless a boot has ruptured and allowed the lubricant to escape. Some people prefer to replace the axle assembly(s) once the boots near failure as evidenced by cracking of the rubber. Because of the labor associated with a boot replacement, that's probably a good idea. Rebuilt axle assemblies are available at ~$80/ea. for this car.

    Because your Olds is an extra car in the family, you may be able to shop for low labor prices by allowing the shop to keep the car for several days and do the work on a fill-in basis ....just don't take it to the run-down filling station, which every town has, that already has 50 derelict cars awaiting some miracle repair!
  • mminerbimminerbi Posts: 88
    Thanks for your follow up, Spokane. Besides saving a considerable amount of money, doing your own maintenance and repairs can certainly be the differenter for deciding whether to keep or dispose of an old car that requires work. If I had the time, facilities/equipment and talent to repair my Olds there's no question that I would. Since I don't have what it takes I need to decide whether it makes sense to invest money in it. Thanks for mentioning the possibility that it may need new CV boots and/or axle assembly, either now or soon. I'll factor that into my decision.

    Regarding the last sentence of the second paragraph of your second message, my engine has never overheated.

    You're fortunate that your Buick is equipped with the optional suspension. I don't think many were. Are you the original owner or were you lucky to find a car so equipped? From what I understand you don't give up much, if anything, in terms of ride comfort, which makes me wonder why Buick and Olds didn't equip all of its cars this way, as Ford did with the Taurus.
  • gvshahgvshah Posts: 1
    Hi. I just came across a Chrysler Concord of 1994 with 76000 miles. I loved the car; single owner and better maintained. However, the asking price is high and I am worried about recurrent expenses and total life of the car. I would appreciate if someone can educate me.
  • I purchased an off-lease 1995 Nissan 200 SX SE-R, which I've driven since it was new. The car has had its share of problems lately, such as engine check light coming on (emissions problem common to Nissan cars), replaced rear wheel bearing/hub,new starter,battery, broken wiper linkage (twice), drive belts squealing after being replaced twice, and re-tensioned more times than I can remember. The car has 89K miles and I know some repairs are to be expected. But, I've owned Honda and Toyota cars, drove them well over 100K miles, and did little more than the normal wear and tear items (brakes, tires, tune-up). I was hoping to ride this car to 150K, but I don't feel it's going to make it that far (at least not without breaking my bank account). Any feedback ?
  • I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer with 216,000 miles on it. The body is in great shape, and it's been in my family for 180,000 of those miles and has been dutifully maintained, repaired, and garaged.

    This weekend, the engine went. I had two mechanics listen to it and they said it sounded like a bearing problem. A friend of mine has offered me $1,000 for it as is. Is it time to let go, or would it make any sense to make the engine repair?
  • jhl2jhl2 Posts: 2
    My first new car is now old. 1985 SAAB 900 5 speed. 334K+ ORIGINAL CLUTCH (I kid you not)
    No major engine or transmission problems, however, the interior needs work, driver seat, roof lining, dash cracked, turn signals & defroster needs work. Body is fair shape with a good detail. My wife says it's time. How about some comments?
  • jhl2jhl2 Posts: 2
    I forgot one major. My oil drain plug is stripped & I'm using a plug from a Mercedes my mechanic found. This is MAJOR, I know because it's not a solid fit anymore since I've had about 6-8 changes since then.
  • ihl2, I'll begin by complimenting you on having driven your Saab all those miles. You must have taken outstanding care of it and driven it easily. I've got 184,000 on the original clutch of my '86 Pontiac Grand Am four cylinder, which I think is much more than average, and you're on your way to doubling that. Remarkable! I think I'll pass the 200,000 mile mark, but perhaps not by much, in part because three of my children learned to drive a stick shift on my car.

    That said, you're asking an excellent, yet rather subjective question, meaning that, to a great extent, you're the only one that can make the final call on whether to dispose of your car or spend money and time to restore it to where you'll be happy keeping it. I doubt if there's anything anyone could tell you that you don't already know, such as, (1) the car doesn't owe you anything; (2) there comes a time when it indeed is time to call it quits, but that doesn't tell you when that exact time is, because to a great extent it's a judgement call; (2) excellent though they may be, Saabs tend to be expensive on parts and labor; These are just examples, and the list of considerations, pro and con, is endless. Also, unless the car has been in an accident or is otherwise severely damaged -- by rust, for example -- virtually every argument for disposing of your car can be countered by an argument for keeping it (example, it looks old, doesn't make a good impression any more...yes, but who the heck cares what others think, etc., etc.)

    You should factor your wife's advice into your decision, since it may be more objective than yours. Also, if keeping the car versus disposing of it has become a source for arguments at home, that's DEFINITELY something to seriously consider. If your wife is merely rendering an opinion, but doesn't particularly care whether you keep or dispose of your Saab, you're, (1) lucky...maybe, and, (2) back to square one.

    Finally, it appears to me that you've really bonded with your Saab, in the sense that you've formed an emotional attachement with it, and may be grappling with that issue every bit as much as the rational factors of the decision on what to do. I started a topic in Edmunds Town Hall under "NEWS & VIEWS" for people who can't stand to get rid of their old cars because they've gotten emotionally attached to them. I suggest that you take a few moments to read what other's have written. It may influence your decision. You might also want to post your story there for other readers.

    Good luck! And, by all means, ihl2, let us know what you finally decide to do, and why.
  • cheap5cheap5 Posts: 2
    jhl2 I hope you'ren still checking this site. Don't know if I can help the decision, but sure would like to empathize. Driving a 1985 3 door 5 speed Saab 900, and am also facing the "it's about time" thing. However, much less mileage than you (about 120,000), with some major items to repair - told that head gasket leaking oil and anit-freeze, CV boots in front, transmission mount sagging on one side, may be a wheel bearing problem. Still on original clutch, although it may be showing signs of wear. This after having rotors reground and new brake pads in front! However, getting rid of it is like throwing out my best friend! There's not a spot of rust on it, seats are pristine - some cracking of the dash and a loopy ceiling. Have been going through the frightening experience of searching for new, and find nothing that "fits". Will not buy another Saab due to expense of car and repairs, and too many former owners saying that the new cars just don't cut it. Looked at Passat wagon, Subaru Legacy, Volvo V40(sweet) and Saturn LW series - a surprisingly agile (but long) car. Still tempted to fix the Saab, but your situation in reverse - husband suggests getting rid of. Based on the proposed expense, I reluctantly agree. In your shoes, the decision would be even more difficult, as it sounds like the mechanical condition is stronger. Good luck!!
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    I also have a car thats on its last legs. A 78 Grand Marquis, with a tranny that won't go into reverse, and engine that needs a ring job, a few dents here and there, and an interior showing its age. Everyone tells me the car isn't worth fixing, but I can't get rid of her. The mechanicals should be easy to fix in the back yard, but the body and interior require a little more art than science, and I may have that hired out to someone
  • I have an '87 Nissan Sentra XE coupe with 100,800 miles on it. In the last year, I've spent about $1800 on it and am facing another $400 in repairs to fix the rear struts. My mechanic says after that, it should be good for another 100,000 miles since at 48,000 the engine was rebuilt after a cracked headgasket. I know it's only worth about $2000 and I'm getting really tired of going to the mechanic every other month. I'm about ready to walk away in search of another car. Anyone been in my shoes? What did you do?
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    kcmogal: ditch. Look for something in a Toyota (except tercels) or a Honda. Avoid buying any more Nissans.
  • jc211jc211 Posts: 1
    Vital Stats: 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 119K, 5.2L V8, Upcountry Suspension, Original owner w/ complete repair history. Paid for. Vehicle is cosmetically in great shape and every mechanical repair tended to as it arose. Not overly impressed w/ repair history (its no Honda).

    Current status: steering box failing ($800+ parts&labor), valve tapping/sticky lifter ($550+ parts&labor), need to replace original floor mats and stereo speakers ($350ish).

    Discussion: I see a few options: 1- just do the maintenance and ride it till the lug nuts fall off; 2- Sink $5K in it and really jazz up my old rig; 3- Sell it for something else

    Pros and Cons: #1: Pro- its paid for and I take this rig deep into the heart of the great NW. Engine tune quiets the valve down for 5~10K miles. Con- Do I trust it? I got real nervous last time out in E. Oregon (middle of nowhere, valve starts tapping L-O-U-D)
    #2: Pro- making nice aftermarket bits for ZJ, cheaper than new car payment, I believe this rig has development potential.
    Con- Throwing away good money? No matter what tuner parts go on it, it is still a high mile rig. What will break next?
    #3: Pro- lots of choices from SUV to 4x4 pickup. New Tundra attractive for reliability perception (sick of American car niggles).
    Cons- Car payments, again (sigh). Hassle of selling my rig.

    So, please share your thoughts on why to Keep (#1&2) or Leap (#3).
  • In the preceding four messages, what to do depends more on nostalgia and emotions than economics. From an economic standpoint, if the body structure is sound (meaning nothing deeper than surface rust, and the frame isn't bent) AND the engine doesn't need to be replaced, the lowest future cost per mile of operation is almost always achieved by repairing the old vehicle and driving it until the "wheels fall off".

    My opinion on the preceding four messages:

    1. rea98d, your '78 Mercury Marquis is definitely not worth fixing from a future cost of operation standpoint. Suggestion: Go into Edmunds News and Views topics and look up the topic about emotional attachment to your car - can't stand to get rid of it. You'll identify with most of the messages and enjoy reading them. Question: how many miles on the old Merc?

    2. kcmogal, Your mechanic is right. Fix your Sentra and drive it.

    3. kayblock, your Nissan 240 probably has a lot more miles left in it than you may realize, but if you can afford a Cadillac you won't be happy with the old 240. Trade it and move up to the Cadillac.

    4. jc211, I'd go with option #1 and put the monthly payments that would be required for a new car into a savings account. This way when the '93 Grand Cherokee finally dies you'll either have smaller car payments or, if enough time elapses, you'll be in a position to pay cash for your next vehicle. I personally wouldn't choose option #2, but that would be an emotional choice, not an economic one, and you're the only one that can make that call.

    In each of the four cases above, please let us know what you do.
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    jc211-
    I'd go with option number 2 if I were you. Soulds like overall, you've got a pretty good vehicle. Spruce her up a bit, and in my opinion you'll get more outta your 5G's than option number 1, and you'll have a vehicle you're proud of. I'd take mminerbi's advice and put the car payments into savings. You pay more for interest on a car these days than you realize (sometimes by the time its paid for, interest can equal or exceed the principle).

    mminerbi,
    The old Merc has about 124,000 miles on it, which isn't a whole lot for a car that's nearly 22 years old. Still, it's a pretty good car, and I think if I took what I would spend fixing it up and applied to a new car, I'd end up in a Geo or something like that. It's also not my sole source of transportation (I have a 95 Thunderchicken as well.) Right now the Mercury is in storage, but I think eventually, I'll do the eceonomically dumb thing, and fix her up again. Instead of car payments on a Geo, I'll fix things here and there and have her running in no time. I did check out the "emotional attachment" conference. You were right, thouroughly enjoyed it. Lets me know I'm not the only lunatic on the planet.
  • Thanks for the feedback, rea98d.
  • I have a '91 Explorer 2-door Eddie Bauer which has had the windshield replaced several times. The factory windshield was replaced due to a paint bubble (under warranty), #3 was a crack, #4 was a leak, #5 was another leak (same spot). The last time, when they pulled the windshield out, some rust and body metal came with it. The windshield guy used a rust solvent and got it down to metal, but said it wouldn't last more that 3 years. Its been about 3 years, and I'm having sticker shock, trying to figure out whether to keep the thing until it starts leaking again or dump it now.

    The engine is running great at about 116,000 miles, just put in a new water pump and fan, had new exhaust done in the spring. It also has well-known early Explorer rocker-panel rust syndrome. I hate to give up on this strong-runner just for rust. Any suggestions?
This discussion has been closed.