Old Cars--When to call it quits

24

Comments

  • filmgirltfilmgirlt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 Nissan Pulsar with 149,000 miles on it. When it wouldn't start today, I was told I would need a new alternator. If I decide to replace it, this will be the FIFTH alternator I have had to put in since 1994! Since the car was old, I have always chosen to go with rebuilt alternators. Suspicious after the second one, I switched mechanics, but it doesn't seem to make any difference, every year I have to replace it, no matter who installs it. Is this a common problem for old Nissans? Has anyone ever heard of anything like this or am I dealing with some kind of alternator vampire?!?
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    That is a lot of alternators to go through, even if they are rebuilt units.
    I would suspect that there is something else wrong which is causing these repeated failures.
    Bad battery, voltage regulator, or an electrical drain problem?
    Alternators usually go bad from having to supply an excessive amount of current thereby burning out an internal part of the alternator. I think there are diodes in them which can burn out.
    If there is an electrical drain that runs the battery down, the alternator has to work too hard to recharge it.
    Good luck
  • roadsideroadside Member Posts: 2
    I am driving 12 year old Astro van but engine is running extremely hot and I have to add oil constantly. Time to let it go? or is there a fix for this problem? I've been looking at new cars but this car is paid in full and I'm relucting to part with it. No major repair problems yet (crossing fingers as I speak). Anyone have thoughts on another low-maintenance vehicle, I really need some suggestions. Can be a 4dr.sedan or van. Thanks!!!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    There are a lot of lousy "rebuilt" alternators and starters on the market.

    A lot of shops insist on rebuilding the customers old unit to insure quality or they will install a new (expensive) unit.

    The assembly lines that rebuild these units often do a poor job, skip steps, and use inferior parts just to be able to offer a low price.
  • jreddingjredding Member Posts: 1
    I think the time to call it quits on a car nowadays is as soon as the warranty runs out, trade it in and move on to something new. sounds expensive but its cheaper in the long run. I puto put 2 transmissions in a fairly new chevy, one a few months after the warranty ran out @53,000mi and 1 @ 89,000mi along with a host of other nickel and dime items and thats on my latest car, any car i've ever had was very expensive after the warranty ran out. sell it and move on
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Calling it quits after the warranty runs out sounds very expensive to me! I have a saturn with 75K miles, basically double the warranty period, and I have not spent $1 on repairs. If I did not keep cars past warranty, I would have gotten rid of it, gotten another car, and gotten rid of that one! I'd be out many thousands of dollars, and that's on a cheap car(saturn). I plan to keep the car to 120-150K miles, and hand it off to a handy person cheap, or to a young family member for free. By that time I will have avoided buying 3-4 cars based on your idea. However, I am very picky about maintenence, but I will let it slip more as the car gets older and the value drops. For example, I would probably not fix the A/C on a 120K mile car. Just get more miles out of it and put that $1500 or so in the bank for the next vehicle.
  • scozascoza Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem with replacing transmissions on chevy's too. Decided "Buy American" was hard on my pocket book. Went to Honda. Never regretted it.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Went to Honda. Never regretted it.

    Hondas are great cars as far as reliability goes, as well as Toyota. However, judging all American cars on Chevys is unfair. Fords are also great cars. I had a 78 Merc that held on till last year when the tranny went, and I drive a 95 T-Bird with 150,000 miles and still running great. In fact, I didn't even get her til the odo was over 130,000. Woman who bought her new wanted something with less miles, and I got her for a song. Great car.
  • workingmanworkingman Member Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I've got a 1990 Ford Ranger It's a 2wd 2.3L 4cyl automatic. It has 132k on it now. )))ENGINE((( went south at 88k and was rebuilt by a very reputible engine rebuilder ~2 years ago. )))TRANNY((( went south 2x. Once at 55k then again at ~112k. Rebuilt 1st time under warranty. 2nd time by a very reputable local tranny only shop. Shop owner says a high % of these Ford automatics go south. 4.10 )))REAR END((( went south at 58k. Rebuilt under warranty. Fuel pump was replaced at 70k along with various other expensive modules, u-joints, brakes, tires, exhausts, and other misc components. In total )))I've((( spent about $5k in repairs over the last 80k miles. It gets about 17.5 to 20 mpg. It has been running fine lately.

    Cosmetically speaking it's decent except for a dented passenger rear quarter that I won't bother to have fixed. It's got no rot. Interior is fine. Radio stinks. Heater is lousy. Last AC summer was still very cold.

    Our family is growing again so we'll be up to by next summer. An extracab would be the next logical choice (we also have a van).

    1.) When would you get rid of this truck??????

    2.) And why then???

    Thanks alot!
    Marc
  • jridgway1jridgway1 Member Posts: 13
    My 84 Buick Skyhawk just turned 293,000 miles, doesn't burn a drop of oil and gets 45MPG HWY. That's with the 1.8L engine. Over it's lifetime it's had one clutch, 1 timing belt, 1 water pump and two CV joint replacements (yes theCV boots seem to have problem falling off). But all in all I certainly can't complain. I use it to and from work and don't worry about a major failure (I'll just walk away from it). I'm going to run it up to 300K (just passed inspection) and then give it to salvage. Also have a 90 Bonne SSE with 160,000 on it and not a single problem. Who says American cars don't have good value (exepting Chrysler products)? I am however, buying a new GMC truck. It's probably about time as I'm worried all my vehicles will decide to fail at once.
  • padrino79padrino79 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida. It has 203000 miles. It has several minor problems. My horn started blowing the other day and wouldn't stop. I had to disconnect it. It leaks brake fluid from the master cylinder when its gets cold. Have to fill every 2 weeks. Trans also leaks fluid. I think some of the rubber fittings on my exhaust are going my mechanic said... may need replacement. The A/C doesn't work. My biggest concern is I have a lifter tap. Paid $200 for it at 90,000 miles because it had been in accident. Probably put 3000 in repairs + Maintenance. 2 Questions if anyone is familiar with this car how long will it run with the lifter tap.(I do tend to drive it hard at times). Am I crazy for keeping it or should I drive it into the ground.
  • tonynjtonynj Member Posts: 1
    I have a 90 maxima GXE. The odometer stopped working at 150K in late '98. Original belt and hoses. Never had any engine or tranny problems. The only thing I have replaced was the battery, front struts, front rotors and rear drums.
    But now she's hurting. The engine always seems to start to overheat, then cools off. Needs rear struts @ about $400. Right rear pwr windows motor died, steering is starting to squeel and I am getting ugly and mysterious puddles inder the car.
    Should I put it out of its misery????
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Personally, I'd drive those cars until they died on the side of the road, than get my car towed ( free with my insurance ) to a salvage yard that would give me a couple bucks for it. OTOH, this means that if you have no other transport, you can be stuck for awhile, so you might want to get another car first, and divide the driving duties between them. But it sounds like both are worth a few hundred bucks max, and need lots more than that in repairs to run properly. I don't know what to say about that belt in the nissan. :)

    But, sounds like you two have gotten MORE than your money's worth out of these vehicles! Be happy and move on!

    dave
  • cahollancahollan Member Posts: 32
    I have a '90 Audi 100 automatic that has 105,000 miles on it. It has provided that many enjoyable miles, but now it's become painful (to the pocketbook) to own. It now needs the following: New hydrualic pump seals, new steering rack, new front suspension bushings, new hydraulic accumulator, new fuel pump, and an optional paint job (that horrible silver that flakes off). These cars are supposed to be bulletproof, and I've taken care of it, but now I'm looking at over $2500 to fix the mechanicals and another $1500 for a paintjob. The car is paid for, and I'm not really in a position for a new car right now. Sell it, trade it, or keep driving it?
  • 5th_corps5th_corps Member Posts: 11
    Better check the power steering fluid. At that age - soemtime the tanks crack a little and leak fluid. If the level isn't high enough - the pump will cavitate and go bad.
  • mwiwelmwiwel Member Posts: 3
    I currently own a 92 Chevy Corsica 3.1L V6 with 133K miles. The car has not required any major maintenance except now I believe it needs a new head gasket (oil/coolant on garage floor, running hot, compression loss) which will cost around $1200 which, per Edmunds/Kelly is about what the car is worth. Bottom line, should I cut my losses and buy a used Honda/Toyota which will put me out about $10K or should I bite the bullet and try to keep it on the road. Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated.
  • wsommarivawsommariva Member Posts: 157
    I loved my 87 SAAB. Cost me $4K and I had it 3 years - 136,000 miles. In 1999 I put $2,000 into it for brakes, muffler, etc. Last straw was the muffler. I just didn't want to put any more money into it. I would be worried about the compression loss. Maybe put that $1,200 toward your next car. A good used Honda/Toyota is a very good value - just have your mechanic check it out before you buy. P.S. I would still have the SAAB if I still had that $2,000.
  • wsommarivawsommariva Member Posts: 157
    ....time to treat yourself. Today you can get good values on used cars off leases. And, a new car would be nice. At 105K too much is going on that car!!
  • gkarggkarg Member Posts: 230
    I was changing the oil in my Dad's 84 MGM this past weekend. I was jacking it up and the frame began to emit crackling groans. The body on this car is shot, but the 5.0 v8 engine runs better than most new car's engines do. My Uncle patched up the body and I went to walmart and purchased several cans of medium gray and yes, painted it one summer evening. I also used black vinyl spray paint for the vinyl top.....looked pretty good!

    Having 211,000 miles on it, it finally exhausted its fourth or so battery. We've only had to replace the waterpump a couple of times and the starter. No other repairs! What a great car! This may be its last year. :-(
  • keeler1keeler1 Member Posts: 2
    Thinking of buying a 93 voyager with 170K miles on it. Owned by a sales agent from my company who drives highway. Trans replaced under warranty at 58K no problems after that. Spoke to dealer who said that the transmission problems were correctected when replacement were put in. I would seem that after 125K this transmission must have been a good replacement. I can get the van for $2500. It has no rust and the interior looks new. I was told that the AC needs a can of 6$ freon every summer. What do you think am I looking to get burned? Please give your 2 cents
  • keeler1keeler1 Member Posts: 2
    Thinking of buying a 93 voyager with 170K miles on it. Owned by a sales agent from my company who drives highway. Trans replaced under warranty at 58K no problems after that. Spoke to dealer who said that the transmission problems were correctected when replacement were put in. I would seem that after 125K this transmission must have been a good replacement. I can get the van for $2500. It has no rust and the interior looks new. I was told that the AC needs a can of 6$ freon every summer. What do you think am I looking to get burned? Please give your 2 cents
  • packer_ratpacker_rat Member Posts: 1
    Everything that you have said about your 87 Park is 'somewhat' music to my ears. I have an 88 Park Ave with 141K miles. You mentioned replacing your EGR. I am having a problem with the EGR as we speak. Replaced it last year. Today the dealer tech said "replace the EGR". Is the Buick known for EGR problems? I would like to keep this car, but a new valve assy. is $180. Do you, or anyone else know if replacing the EGR a 2nd time may solve the codes 26,62,63,64 (quad driver, EGR valves failures)?
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I don't know the code descriptions for the '88 Park Avenue but did check the shop manual for an '87. On the '87, the only EGR-related code that the computer can set is related to the Electronic Vacuum Regulator Valve (EVRV). The EVRV is a solenoid valve which controls the vacuum level to the EGR valve; the ERG valve in turn controls the amount of exhaust bleed to the intake manifold. It's the EVRV that communicates with the computer and can set the fault codes. A mechanic is on the wrong track if he is simply replacing the EGR valve based on fault codes; he needs to evaluate the EVRV per the shop manual. The check procedure is not too complex but it's not obvious so he almost surely needs the Buick shop manual. First, however, check condition of the vacuum hoses at the EVRV and be sure the little foam air-bleed filter (beneath a plastic cap) on the EVRV is free of obstruction.

    As a troubleshooting technique, you can test drive with the EGR valve disconnected in the closed position, the same as if you had no EGR system. Engine performance should be OK but exhaust emissions will probably not be satisfactory. This practical check will at least tell you if the EGR/EVRV/Computer are contributing to a driveability problem.

    Good luck.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    I've heard some bad things about Chrysler transmissions. But the tech said they fixed it, so.... Have the van checked out by a private transmission shop, and if he says its good, go for it!
    Also, where are you getting freon for six bux a can, Old Mexico? In this area, since the EPA put a ban on the stuff, it's been extremely expensive to get!
  • occupant1occupant1 Member Posts: 412
    keeler1 - the freon they are talking about is R-134a, it's cheap stuff, $5-$6 a can. 1993 models should have R-12 though, which is still for sale but no longer manufactured, so it is ridiculously priced. You may wish to ask if the air conditioning was changed over to R-134a. If it wasn't changed over, it will cost you anywhere from $300-$500 to change it over, plus any other needed repairs. I'm betting the leak is in the evaporator. Chryslers are known for bad evaporators, and that's inside the dash and can cost about $400-$600 to fix. The evaporator in my 1992 Dynasty is $221 for the part, then about five hours flat rate labor.

    jridgway - before you scrap that Skyhawk, drop me a line (click on my name to get my email address) and I might be able to pick it up and use it for courier work until it dies. Just sold a 1989 Escort, had 352K on it, and the owner has moved safely to Tennessee with it.
  • occupant1occupant1 Member Posts: 412
    On the Corsica...if you have taken proper care of this car, you should repair it. I have seen company owned fleet Corsicas (not rentals) with over 300K on them still running fine. Those were fours like yours. A head gasket does not cost $1200 to replace. A classified ad in a local paper listed Cavalier and Corsica head gasket replacements for $380. It's a pushrod engine, simple design, not too difficult to pull the head and change the gasket. Where your problem lies is that no one really knows until your engine is disassembled what your problem is. It may very well be a cracked head gasket. It could also be a cracked or warped cylinder head. It could also be a cracked engine block. You won't know until you pay them $200-$300 to take it apart. Also, you won't get $1200 if you sell it with the bad engine. You might get $300-$500 if you advertise it yourself. Even less from a dealer or salvage yard. Now if all you need is the gasket, you'll pay another hundred bucks or so and it'll be done. If you need a head, that will cost a few hundred more. But unless your whole engine block is cracked, this repair will not cost you $1200. I guess $800 with a brand new head, less with a reconditioned one, even less with a good used one. $1200 on the other hand will buy you a whole used engine installed with a warranty if you go to the right shop.
  • kiamskiams Member Posts: 20
    I need some answers from those who have "been there, done that"...

    Situation: Fix or Sell to Junkyard...decisions...decisions...
    Major Problems

    Area: Transmissions
    Status: Dead?
    Car behaviour?: Wont move, whether in [R] or [D]. Hold light blinked a week before tranny went kaput

    Area: Right Controll Arm
    Status: Bent
    Car behaviour?: Wheels out of alignment. Probably needs a new arm

    Area: Radiator Tank
    Status: Worn - out
    Car behaviour?: The plastic part is worn out, find a new plastic tank or whole
    new radiator unit??

    Area: Engine: internal/ external oil leak?
    Status: (-10 degrees C)
    Car behaviour?: Bluish/White smoke & clicking sound when cold when engine is cold, or blue smoke on hard accelleration

    Area: Rock cover gasket?
    Status: Loose? worn-out?
    Car behaviour?: Car leaks oil like crazy, puts 1 litre of oil every 2-3 weeks!

    Area: Compressor
    Status: Siezed
    Car Behaviour?: A/C is dead, no Power Steering since PS belt is connected to compressor.

    Please advice on how much to expect in expense & labor costs. keep in mind I have a low budget for this.(I am in Toronto, Canada...any good (honest???) Mechanic?)
  • lucky20lucky20 Member Posts: 35
    You did not say what kind of auto: if it is a Vega, better leave it. If it is a two year old 7 series BMW, better fix it. Maybe you need a horse.
  • kiamskiams Member Posts: 20
    It's a 1990 Mazda 626 DX, 2.2 Litre, Auto Transmission

    Body is EXCELLENT - no rust, dents, dings or anything, but the horror lies beneath the hood.

    If it was a 98 7 series beemer, this would not ne a hard decision. But for a Ten year old car, I am wondering if this could turn out to be a black hole for my wallet

    Maybe I do need a horse! lol!
  • doornumber3doornumber3 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 1989 Geo Metro that had 250K when I sold it 6 years ago. I bought it with 167,000 highway miles. I bought two sets of tires, an alternator and front brake shoes. The driver door hinge came off the body and the drivers seat had to be rewelded. That's it. You can say what you will about these tin cans but this car was by far the most dependable car I've owned. I sold it for $1500 and the guy who bought it hooked up a nitrous system and blew up the motor.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Unless the mazda has some sentimental value, I reccomend you dump her, as you'd end up spending more than she's worth, and more than you could buy a good used car for. Of course, if it's your first car and it carried your daughter home from the hospital when she was born, and you just can't bare to part with it, that's another story.
  • drake4985drake4985 Member Posts: 3
    This past December we got rid of our van. Yes, it was a piece of junk but it was the first vehicle I remember owning. I thought I was going to cry when we got rid of it. But as much as I loved it, it was time for it to go.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    junk it-too many things going wrong.
  • kdaokdao Member Posts: 1
    I need help in deciding what to do with my car.
    I have a 1977 Mercedes 450SEL with 95,000 original miles (bought from a friend's mother 2 years ago.) The car was well taken care of but being a >20 years old car, it has a few problems.

    1. AC compressor: seized
    2. Leaking engine oil
    3. Leaking transmission fluid

    I am planning to move to another state and wondering if it is worth it to fix the car or should I cut my losses. The car itself probably doesn't worth much...donate to charity?

    I would like to hear your thoughts.

    Thanks in advance,
    KD
  • bevilabevila Member Posts: 1
    I abandoned this car for a new I30, thinking my son could use it when he got his license. It sat unused for 7 months. In preparation, we replaced the muffler, and then had to replace the alternator and battery. One week after he began driving it, it lost power on him, the oil light came on, and he got right off the road. There was plenty of oil in it. The car will start, but there is a loud knocking from within the engine.

    The dealer who replaced the alternator condemned the engine, offering to install a used one for $3000. I checked with a motor rebuild shop who would rebuild for $4800 or replace with used for $3000. They both said oil paths had plugged, causing loss of oil to bearings and to the valve lifters.

    This thing looks perfect and drives nice, although the mileage is certainly high and it doesn't owe me anything. Are there any "flushing" tricks that could free up those oil paths and get us a few more miles out of the thing?
  • padrino79padrino79 Member Posts: 3
    I'll start by saying I am not a mechanic but my father is so I know a good deal about cars and I don't think the plugged oil paths main problem. I don't doubt that is what caused your problem and would need to be fixed but when you mention a loud knocking coming from the engine I think the bearings have already been damaged. That means either a used engine or a complete rebuild.
  • brad45brad45 Member Posts: 27
    ...it's too late.

    Sorry, but new engine or new car are your only two options. When you say "used" engine do you mean rebuilt/reconditioned or yanked out of a wreck an plopped into your's? All of those terms (used, reconditioned, rebuilt) mean significantly different things. $3K sounds high for a used engine swap, but it is an Infinity. With a used engine you could be right back in the same boat before you know it. What is the car worth with a new or rebuilt engine? That should make the decision for you. Good luck.
  • wdcsupermanwdcsuperman Member Posts: 3
    I have an 89 Honda Accord that was working fine until the timing belt went. It has an interference engine. Since the timing belt broke the car runs very rough at idle ( the whole car shakes). It also has bad smelling exhaust. The mechanic and people I talk to say that the damage to the engine could run deep. Here are my questions.

    First is it worth fixing this car ( interior and car appearance is very good) if it means a rebuilt engine needs to be installed?

    Second what are the results of driving the car in this condition?

    Please help me figure this one out.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Try REA98D's formula. 3,000 to 4,800 dollars to get the infiniti running again. What kind of car will it be when the work is finished. Will you trust the car with your son on a long road trip. Now for the 4,800 dollars, what kind of car could you get? Would it be better or worse than the Infiniti in terms of confort, reliability, trusting the vehicle, ect? If the 4,800 puts you into a Dodge Omni as opposed to an Infiniti your trust, go for fixing what you've got. If sinking 4,800 into the Infiniti leaves you with an old car you're scared to take to the end of the driveway and a Dodge Omni would be a step up, take out an ad in the Thrifty Nickle and start looking for other transportation.
  • shekharpatelshekharpatel Member Posts: 27
    90,000 miles. Runs OK, A/C dead, smells of burning antifreeze when comes to a stop, front rt parking light fixture fell out. Have spent 2000$ in repairs over the last 2 yrs (this is in addition to oil changes etc). should I retire the auto. Other than occassional slipping of transmission (it's on the 3rd tranny) the car runs fine. And oh! I cannot turn the radio off, I turn the volume down to a min. Good gas milage (24 mpg average). Please advise.
  • lucky20lucky20 Member Posts: 35
    Ford had some problems with auto trans used in the taurus. Third transmission? Sounds like trans. problem was not fixed in any of the first two, may not be in the third. Cost? I don't recommend spending any more then 70% of the value of an auto in repairs. Hard to anticipate what will happen next. 10 year old Taurus will not have much resale value. Don't get in to deep.
  • mmcswmmcsw Member Posts: 29
    That there are virtually no old cars in Japan? If you have ever visited the country of Japan you would find virtually no automobiles over 5 years old. They become economically unfeasible to keep any longer than that due to licensing, taxes, inspections, etc., and almost everybody just scraps there "middle aged" cars and gets new ones.
    So enjoy being in the good old US of A where you have the freedom to chose when to scrap you vehicle (almost).
    On the other hand though, I've seen some rolling wrecks on the road where I live (Mich) that are probably a safety hazard not only to the the people in the car but everybody else around them also. Some states have mandatory inspections that get these hazardous clunkers off the road, which is probably a good idea, but I think it's a shame that legislation is neccessary to enforce what should be just plain old common sense.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Interesting observation, mmcsw. In Michigan, you are probably better protected from rolling wrecks than we are in the south. I expect your harsh winters "kill off" some of the worst offenders whereas in milder climates many of these clunkers continue to bounce, roar, and belch smoke from one fender-bender to the next.

    The Japanese situation is curious. Since most cars in Japan accumulate very few miles by North American standards, scrapping after five years or so is particularly surprising. Does anyone have an idea of the typical mileage of cars scrapped in Japan?
  • olegphilolegphil Member Posts: 30
    Until 5 years ago I used to live in the Eastern Europe. I've seen a lot of right steering wheel Toyotas and Subarus over there. Many of them had less than 60K miles when they were unloaded from ships.
  • johno8johno8 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1987 Mazda 626 with over 384,000 miles. I haven't touched the engine, 5-speed or clutch. It has the original water pump too. The interior is okay , and the body is dent-free, but will need new paint. I've replaced normal wear parts (tires, brakes, hoses, thermostat, radiator, heater core, wheel bearings, batteries, axle boots, struts). I do periodic inspections, maintenance, and oil changes every 3000 miles. I have another car, but the Mazda is the commuter car. Should I replace the engine, clutch and 5-speed or retire it with honors?
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    384,000 miles on the original clutch is an amazing testimonial to your careful driving, Johno8. The water pump longevity is also one for the record books ...but I expect luck has to get some of the water-pump credit. I would not spend money on the drivetrain if it's performing OK. Although I do not predict any specific failure to be forthcoming, a rebuilt engine and transmission still leaves you with steering and electrical systems that are vulnerable. Possibly some body problems if you are in a cold climate. When you do get indications of need for a major repair, perhaps the "retirement" would be appropriate .. with honors to be shared between you and the 626. Good luck.
  • dmkdmk Member Posts: 22
    I agree w/ Spokane.
    Drive it until you need a significant repair(drivetrain or electrical failure) and enjoy life w/o a monthly car payment.
    I bought my Grandma a used 89 Mazda 323 about 3 years ago. I hope it's half as reliable as your Mazda.
  • dillwyndillwyn Member Posts: 1
    My 1987 Mazda car has been cutting out intermittently over the last few weeks. The symptoms were that the engine revs would die to zero, and sometimes the engine cut out completely, when the automatic transmission changed gears from 2nd. to 3rd. (High revs to low), RPM meter just dives into the dirt. This has now become a permanent feature of the car and it is undrivable.

    Are these symptoms recognizable by anyone?

    How much will it cost to get fixed?

    Thanks in advance for any advice, help that you can offer.
  • tmotetmote Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Mercury Tracer burning oil at startup (guessing valve guides). The car has 105K on it, with a lot of city driving in recent years. I have talked to a few shops about fixing it, but they suggested it might expedite failure in other parts of the engine so won't gaurantee it. They suggested a reconditioned engine for ~$2500. This has been a good car. I have just done normal maintentce (belts, brakes, tires, oil, coolant), only the A/C has been fixed at about 70K. The body is in decent shape. Two other problems: keep getting a check coolant light, but can't find a problem. Also, A/C seems to be going. For a North dakota native living in Georgia, A/C is a must! This is now a commuter car getting maybe 10K/year of city driving.

    So, do I keep running it with normal maintenance, go for the reconditioned engine, or go for a new(er) vehicle? TIA.
  • smack3smack3 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently had the front brakes done, water pump and power steering pumps replaced, & EGR valve on this car. However, I will need to have the A/C evaporator coil replaced ($900), possible front bearings ($650), and car growls in steering column when I start so I'm possibly looking a new ignition switch? Also I am on my 2nd radio and the lights in the display are out in this one (don't have a clue what time it is or my station)
    but for an additional $350 to remove, repair and replace my clock--- IS IT WORTH IT? When is enough enough? Thousands into this car or $10,000 to a new Buick?
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