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Leather Seat Maintenance
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I have been using the Armorall Leather "cleaner/conditioner, however; after reading your posts, I am going to the separate "cleaner' and then the "conditioner" bottles of Lexol. Although, I will say, my leather in the Ford Escape looks good, as I have been doing the Armorall cleaner/conditioner since day one and they look good.
Walmart carries both brands,,,so... off to Walmart sometime this weekend to give Lexol {and Walmart} some of my money.
Keep up the great info posts.
TRON
dave
The BMW leather is known in the trade to be particularly nice. In fact, its left-over cuttings tend to be the most sought after in the scrap leather trade (yes, scrap a whole different market niche, and a thriving one at that). The Saab tannage, while I can't be certain, is probably influenced by GM. If you are having trouble with that upholstery remaining stiff and dry, I think is probably ideal chance for you to try a dedicated conditioner, only. Those seats may benefit from several treatments of a good, deep-soaking conditioner. Try the Lexol product or Hyde Food (if your arm can stand it). You may be surprised, as I think if you try this you will find that a relative softness will return to the Saab leather. You may be able to go back to your one-step product, once you get a base softness worked back into the leather.
As you remember from our discussions, Seton is one of the three American automotive leather tanners who pioneered the current technology for leather seating, and who now dominate the world market. Again, this advice comes from the horse's mouth, one of the tanners who actually produces the leather. Their advice is essentially similar to the advice you will find on the Eagle Ottawa web site. Note, in particular, what they say about using saddle soap.
Obviously,they discourage its use.
QUOTE
Leather is the easiest of all upholstery materials to clean and care for. Our firm recommends a very mild solution of lukewarm water and a detergent free soap. Moisten a soft cloth or a sponge in the solution and apply
gently, in a circular motion, to all soiled portions of the leather, taking care not to soak the seats. Remove the lather with a clean damp cloth, rubbing lightly to restore the original luster.
For conditioning, several quality leather conditioning products are available at your local auto parts store. Take care in following the
products usage instructions.
Please do not use: Polishes, Oils, Ammonia, Cleaning Fluids, Solvents, or Detergents to clean your leather upholstery. We also discourage the use of saddle soap on your leather seats as this will actually dry the leather out. (Automotive leather is not processed in the same manner as saddles, shoes,etc.)
The texture and warmth of your interior will improve with age. Over time you will notice what appears to be wrinkles in your seating. This is a natural characteristic that enhances the appearance of your vehicle.
These and other natural markings of the hide, visible healed scars and scratches, are not defects but serve as conclusive proof that yours is genuine leather.
END QUOTE
Also, I would try to avoid sitting on the seats that got soaked (to avoid stretching the wet leather). This may be easier said than done, if it is your daily driver and you need to go to work.
Yes, if you avoid using the vehicle, this is better, to reduce the chance of creasing and/or wrinkling. This might take a few days to really dry out. You should be able to tell by touch. After you are sure that the leather is try, apply some conditioner, and care for the leather as you normally would do. Just hope for the best outcome. Trying to bring it back slowly will serve you better, than trying to tend to it under panic conditions. Good luck.
This would also keep the top of the leather moist as the bottom, so the two sides don't dry at different rates.
I've had this problem with an upholstered car - not leather.... and that's what I did. Changing the towels every few hours at first.
I also put a small electric fan in the car to circulate the air...
hoping to avoid mold.
Comments Alex? You're our real expert here... I sure don't want to suggest anything that would hurt more than help.
The dealer has set up a meeting with the factory rep to look at the seat. This is probably the least used seat in the car and have no idea how long they were there. I am worried that the holes...they don't go through the seat... will get worse. Do you thing Volvo will replace the seat or repair it for free, or charge me?
I am surprise that leather seats would be so easily damaged. I have a leather brief case that has been getting abused for 2 years and that is still in great shape. Could there be something wrong with the leather?
I am a hide trader by profession, and you have to remember how that leather started out. It was originally on the back of a cow, somewhere. Depending from which tanner Volvo sourced that leather: The hides of U.S. origin cattle are frequently subject to barb wire damage or fence abrasion in the feedlots, on the range, wherever.
European cattle are typically grazed in the vincinity of a lot of trees, fences, close quarters, etc. The bottom line, if the cow get's a itch, they are prone to brush themselves aggressively against the nearest object they can find, for relief. This will frequently result in some kind of damage to the grain in the animal's hide, under its hair. Pretty much leathers of all types are subject to this kind of "natural" defect. The leather tanners, particularly the automotive tanners, go to great lengths to correct the grain on the leather they produce. They higher end leathers, which are used in the higher end cars (Volvo will qualify in this niche), will usually have some kind of hair cell imprinted or embossed onto the leather to further mask any defects. But you can never eliminate all of the defects, entirely. They do a very good job at masking defects, extraordinary, actually. But if you know what to look for, you can probably find some very subtle evidence on a spot where a cow got sratched in a previous life. They are indeed hard to find (after all, who wants to buy a $40K car with scratchy leather?). Your text makes it obvious that what you seeing is not readily apparent. So not seeing this for myself, I am suspecting that what you are seeing is some residual grain damage in the leather. I would not give this a further thought. It is natural, it should really cause you no problems down the road. I can show you the same in my own Audi A6, or even in any $80K S Class Mercedes you choose.
If it matters, this is high-end leather seating (Lexus LS).
Is there something I can use to bond this tiny slit back together so it doesn't get any worse? I've considered superglue, but don't want to muck things up. The edges are quite clean - not torn.
any suggestions?
Just purchased a '98 LS400 and the driver's seat had a small, ragged tear, about 1-1.25 inch in length by 1/16 to 1/8" in width. Some of it penetrated the leather, some of it was just the top layer. This tear helped me get a decent deal on the vehicle with only 22k miles.
From my successful repair experience ten years ago with a 1989 Acura Legend with the same hole-in-leather-seat problem, I just checked a local Yellow Pages under the Auto Upholstery topic, called a guy that primarily advertised for auto leather repairs, and the quote was $100. Funny, I recall paying about that much back in 1989.
My local Lexus service mgr also recommended a guy and I ended-up having him do the repair, complete with a minor resurface/dye job on the seat bottom.
Total charge was $95, in line with the first quote.
End result? - my picky wife can't tell the difference between the front two seat bottoms.
Amazing to watch them make the repair if you have the time. Good luck!
Anyone have a self-help fix? This spot is really small, and not through the leather yet, and nice clean edges. Gotta be something that will work...
jeff, side question: If you don't mind me asking, what kind of deal did you get when you bought your '98? I just got mine - a '97, and it has about twice as many miles as yours. And I understand if you don't like to disclose that kind of stuff, so don't hesitate to just say you don't talk about $$$....
regards,
Andy
But so as to not bore all the other lurkers, just send me your email URL and I'll be glad to swap lies!
Jeff
jeffmust@aol.com
I have read nearly every post on this board but have not seen a definitive answer to this problem.Thanks.
You definitely do not want to risk using any solvents or other potent cleaners, as these will almost certainly damage the leather's top coating.
I beleive you about the relative quality of the BMW and saab leather. The BMW seats look new aside from a scuff on the driver's outside bolster, despite 4.5 years in albuquerque and very little care until i got it. Yet the single step softened them up right away. The saab's been 1/2 in minnesota before coming here, and its side bolster is badly worn, and its leather is very dry.
dave
While cleaning the seats in my ML320, I noticed 2 scratches. one about an inch long and 1/4 inch wide, and one is a slight scratch (the kind you see if you brush it one direction but disappears if you brush it the opposite direction).
I was wondering if you can advise me on any leather repair kit that I can use. The scratches are too small to take to a leather repair place. Thank you in advance.
I'm finally getting my first new car (after about a zillion years of waiting) - a 2002 MB ML320.
In a momentary burst of insanity, despite the fact that I have a baby on the way (due in January), I ordered a java interior (light beige).
It's too late to turn back now - and I'm due to get the car in November.
Any hints on what I can do to ensure that the interior - specifically those nice light leather seats - stays new?
I figured a good hit (immediately upon receipt of the car) of a leather conditioner should be a good start, followed by regular cleaning and conditioning.
I've got some Lexol - but I notice mine says 'rejuvenator' or something similar. Do I need new car Lexol (if such a thing exists)? Is there something better than Lexol (OK, I'm opening up a religious argument here).
TIA for any suggestions,
-John
As I mentioned in my post#476 about some scratches I have on my ML320 back seat, I got one of them fixed using a do-it-yourself kit. (I couldn't find the other lesser scratch)
I am pleased with the result even though it was my first try. I got the kit from Wal-Mart's auto section, price:$5.95. I did it following the simple instruction that comes with the product. The tricky part is the mixing of colors to get it to match your leather. After some trials & errors, I got mine to be a near perfect match. I checked 3 sites on the internet selling similar products, prices are: $14.95, $29.95 & $49.95 (or somewhere in the ball park).
I cleaned the seats with a moist mit and very diluted car wash detergent followed by thorough towel drying. Applied the Tanners Preserve twice and buffed with soft towel obtained from Ritz Carlton.
The seats feel very good. Slick but not Armorally if you know what I mean (I hate armorall products). The leather seats look wonderful. SVT put in some nice tan all leather seats in this car! I'm a happy baby... : ^ )
thanks, wil
I looks like the "dirt" (a grayish colour) is trapped in the micro grooves, and no amount of rubbing seems to dislodge it. I am getting worried about damaging the leather, so I am using more of the conditioners to offset the cleaning.
My next step will probably be to try Leatherique, if I can find a place to buy it.
Any advice from the experts? I have read through the most recent 100-200 posts.
Thanks,
Daniel
With regards to leatherique - check the m-class mailing list. They have the name of the site, plus an applicable m-class mailing list discount.
Except for the problem I described above, we have been very happy with the interior. I do take reasonable care with it. The colour is so much nicer than the grey or black, especially with our Azure Blue exterior. I think if you choose a lighter interior colour it will always be more difficult to keep clean than, say, black. I don't think we will easily choose another colour. At least it is not the light cream or white in some cars...
Do you perhaps have a URL for the m-class mailing list?
It has gray cloth(i think) seats, but I was thinking of getting leather. Of course replacing the seats would probably cost way too much.
Any info/experience on leather seat covers? Is leather really a pain in tropical weather?
Seems to me they wouldn't absorb sweat etc... like cloth would. I would probably try for some nice soft leather if not expensive.
Thanks.
Al
I have never tried one of those leather repair kits that another forum member mentioned he as able to use, successfully. I would gather, for relatively minor scratches as he described, you probably could get away it. Matching black is a probably a no brainer, but might be tricky matching for other colors such as various shades of grey or maroon. As the repair would be a very topical correction, I would believe that it will need to be reapplied, eventually. But if the time between reappliations is lengthy and not brief, go ahead and try it. For really minor scratches, I have usually found that the use of a conditioner will usually blend them away until the next cleaning service is due.
Biege leather-yes, that's a tough one. Beige probably provides the most splendid or lavish look for most car interiors, but it is truly a pain to keep clean and looking good for the long haul. It is a leather color that I personally would avoid for that reason. Small children in the family, especially, forget beige! I think, generally, you have to be on top of cleaning beige with a cleaner almost continuously. Needing likley far more frequent cleanings and conditioning than other colors, in a bid to stay ahead of the dirt. It's not just dirt that affects the leather in our seats. There is even the possibility of a transfer of dyes from our clothing as we perrespire (ie: blue jeans), that can lead to some shadowing on the seats bottoms, in time. I am not really sure it pays to drive one's self crazy trying to stay ahead of these issues. You use the car, you enjoy, and you do what you can to keep it looking good, relative to your use. But I have always observed that beige leathers generally look more aged than other possible colors. Its just the nature of the beast. You can try to a professional detailer to see if they can lift the shadow off the seat. But there is a limit to how much you should try to do, without risking damage to the top coating.
I don't really feel terribly confident about how well those so-called crack filling products work with leather. Especially with temperature changes hot and cold, I have to wonder how well they will peform. Something I don't think I would ever try. I don't have any confidence at all in those systems redye an entire seating surface. Placing dye into a small scratch area is one thing. But correct automotive leather dyeing is a full-pentration process accomplished by drum dyeing. These recoloring systems would be purely a topical application. They will be missing any of the proprietary topcoat technology that is applied to modern automotive leathers (this includes UV resistance). I wonder, also, how well the new dye job can absorb into the original top coat that will still be present. I really doubt this kind of job can look good or remain as a durable finish for very long. If it is a nice car that you really like and intend to keep, you are probably better spending money visiting an after-market auto leather upholstery shop. At least you will get quality results that will stick around for a while.