Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Car_man
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Individual dealerships have absolutely nothing to do with your lease. You are leasing your truck through a bank, most likely Lexus Financial Services, and they are the only ones that have the authority to deal with you. Some banks will negotiate the lease-end purchase prices of vehicles from time to time, while others will not. If you are serious about buying your leased RX, place a call to the bank that you are leasing it though to see if they are willing to work with you on its price. They may not be, but you don't have anything to lose by asking. If your initial contact is not willing to work with you, you may be able to get results by working your way up the corporate latter a few rungs. Also, banks usually will not negotiate with consumers who are less than a month or two away from the scheduled ends of their leases.
Car_man
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What would be the lease factor and residual value for a 2004 SC430 for August 2004?
Thanks,
Williee
Can you please provide me with MF and residuals for 2004 Accord AT LX (4 & V6). I am looking at a 36month 12,000/yr lease.
Charles
Just happened by and noticed the following.
"Golden Opportunity Sales Event" this month and actually does have a little support on this model. If you were to lease a 2004 Lexus RX 330 4WD without the rear entertainment system or navigation options through Lexus Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00175 and 55%, respectively.
So had I waited a week the deal would have been a little better? My Residual was 54% and MF started at .00200, which I brought down via the MSD I guess I would have saved amount $20-$25 monthly. So is there ever any way to really know when is the "Best time"?
Gwarren
Uncle Sam will always get his money. You are not paying "extra" tax by purchasing your leased car at the end.
You do provide a lot of good information and very timely for me.
I'm in the process of negotiating a 36 month closed-end lease for a 3 liter 10000 mile/year Z4. I have done my homework with Leaseguide, Edmund, and carfax.
I had some calls today from BMW dealers on the car that I'm looking for.
I was offered a residual of 58% and a money factor of 0.00095.
My quetion is, is there a way to verify the residual number anywhere on the internet?
Thanks,
Peter
Take the inspection to the dealer you are making your next purchase from and see if they have a body shop or detail center that can help you have the repairs made for less money.
If they do then simply turn in the receipts from the repairs you make with your vehicle at the end showing it has been done. (make sure you keep a copy for yourself).
As the leasing manager at my store, I personally offer this to any of our lease end customers. It gets them a better deal on the their costs and makes our body shop a little money too.
You should ask your salesperson to help you with this if you need it.
Also check on your registration. Some states allow you to pro-rate your yearly registration if you are leasing so that you only pay through the term of your lease.
Back at the office the salesguy goes to the sales manager, comes back and tells me I can get the lease for just under $600/mo. I asked him what money factor and residual rate they used to arrive at that factor, and he looked sick and said he'd have to go to the sales manager and ask.
So he comes back with two options. First option, lease through Jag credit, which can't apply the $5000 incentive, will use a MF of .00014, for payments of $595.20 per month. Second option, through their partner bank, which can apply the $5000 incentive, with a MF of .0023, but a residual percentage of only 44%, for a monthly payment of $599.81/mo.
Is it just me, or is he just coming up with crazy justification for his out of nowhere $600/mo figure?
In my experience, if you are leasing thru the manufacturer, especially GMAC, the end of lease inspection is pretty painless. If your mileage is inline, you have minimum tread on the tires and no bodywork, it is a breeze.
I have also had leases thru banks on a couple of occasions. Both times the lenders were hypercritical of minor issues and were obviously intent on soaking the lessee. They used independent "appraisers" who literally went over the vehicle with a magnifying glass, photographing all blemishes or minor scratches.
They won't give you both the 5K and the low MF.
Fairly standard practice by most mfgs. You get the lease deal or the outright purchase deal. Can't have it both ways.
Car_man
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Car_man
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It certainly looks to me as though you were able to negotiate an attractive selling price on this truck. Let's take the numbers that you provided in your post and work up a sample lease payment for you. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2004 Lexus RX330 AWD w/navigation & without the rear entertainment system (MSRP: $44,288 / selling price: $40,100) through Lexus Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, your pre-tax, $3,500 down monthly payment should be right around $470. As you can see, something does not add up here because I doubt that tax on this truck comes to $80 per month. The dealer that you are working with may have marked-up LFS' base lease money factor to add additional profit to your deal. Or perhaps your vehicle does include the rear entertainment system, which would make it more expensive to lease.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Consumers' lease-end experiences vary from bank to bank, but in general most manufacturers' captive finance companies (banks that are associated with automakers) are fairly reasonable when evaluating vehicles at lease-end for excess wear and tear. Afterall, they don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish by nickel and diming you to death at lease end and then causing you to hate their parent company.
Car_man
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General Motors usually provides lease support for leases of 2 to 4 years in length. If you opt to lease this truck for one year you will have a very high lease payment because you will have to use an unsupported interest rate. Your payment will also be high because new vehicles experience their highest rate of depreciation during the first year of ownership. The longer you lease for, the larger the number of payments you can spread this initial depreciation hit over. With a 12 month lease, you would have to pay for a ton of depreciation.
Car_man
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A friend is looking at leasing an '04 Chevy Tahoe LT and could use your help. He is looking for the money factor and residual for the following lease terms:
Location: New England
Term: 36 months
Miles: 15k/year
With incentives, he's already knocked about $9k off MSRP and is going after more.
Thanks again!
Requesting your help with current BMW numbers...mf and residual for a 36 month with 10,000 & 15,000 miles
TIA
Joe
Sorry for leaving out the number of years I'd like to drive this thing! Should have known better by now!
Here are the particulars and some questions:
This is for a 2004 330i with ZHP, Leather, moon-roof, ZCW, Xenon, Rear-airbags, and 508-PDC.
MSRP = $45205
Miles = 12K
Will try and negotiate NET Cap of $39955 (invoice of 41355 + 500 - 2400 deal cash) we’ll see how it goes.
I am planning on 36 month lease.
Would like to get the residual for this.
Also, does leasing a 2004 car near the end of 2004, reduce its residual? Even if it has near zero miles? Is it better to buy earlier in the year?? Just curious.
Thanks and I hope you are totally virus free now!
Car_man
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I have negotiated a lease on a 2004 330ci. The MSRP is $43,545 and the purchase price is $39,900. I expect the lease to be 15k/36mo. Can you let me know what type of lease payment I can expect? Also, what would the same car be with the miles at 12k?
Thanks!
I was quoted $17310 on LX auto and advertized lease rates on it: $1899 due at lease signing, $199/mo for 36mo/12k lease; On the other hand, for Civic EX auto I get $1850 due at signing, $225/mo for the same terms. How's that possible (civic having a higher payment), and what should I expect my monthly payments to be in the case of $0 down (edit: in case I will get the accord)?
(extra charges on top of the price: $ 490.00 Dest charge
$ 100.00 Dealer Processing Fee
$ 895.00 5% Maryland Sales Tax
$ 210.00 Estimated Tag, Title and MD
)
Thank you.
Pavel K.
The dealer suggested the "Smart Sale" program and offered a 35 month deal that is $579/month for 35 months with a baloon payment at the end of $28,690. Technically, I buy the car, but I can walk away from it like a lease at the end of the term. The vehicle list is about $49,600 and he says the calculations are based ona 6.5% interest rate.
My question is, does it make sense to go from my current situation to the Smart Sale? If I do not trade in the Suburban and pay it off in 3 years, will I be better in getting a new vehicle then?
36mos/12k miles
39mos/12k miles
Thanks