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Check Engine light

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Comments

  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Just got my service manual for my 2k Protege and at least 75% of the information relates to OBDII diagnostics using a NGS scanner and a program card(version 8 or later). Is this particular scanner really necessary or are there less sophisticated ones for dummies like myself. Also, I am a little confused with terminology such as "view from harness side" or " view from terminal side" used with the illustrations. And is a "breakout box" really needed for some diagnostics. Your help is greatly appreciated. From what I learned so far, this OBDII could be very useful if I can figure out the lingo. This manual is the same the techs use so no stone is left unturned when it comes to diagnosing problems.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The NGS scanner is the Mazda proprietary scan tool. However, all post mid-95 cars and light trucks use the same OBD-II 16 pin connector and any compatible scan tool with an import cartridge will work on your Protege. Re views, the "harness side" is looking along the harness to the back of the connector, and "terminal side" is the view looking at the pins or toward the wiring harness.


    For scan tools, try here:

    http://www.batauto.com/links.html

    Scroll down to Scanners and Diagnostic Tools. Auto Xray are recommended for versatility/price.

  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    What about that 'Breakout box' they refer to. It seems to connect in series between the PCM and the wiring harness and is used to troubleshoot shorts in the circuits to the various sensors. I guess it helps to eleminate problems in the wiring harness itself. True or false?
    The more I read this manual, the stupider(?) I feel.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    A breakout box is installed in series between the PCM and wiring harness. It allows access to wiring without backprobing connectors which could damage terminals, or puncturing wiring insulation which could provide a starting point for corrosion. Breakout box socket numbers usually correspond to connector terminal numbers. I've gotten away in the past by CAREFULLY backprobing, or by using a straight pin to puncture insulation (makes a smaller hole) then sealing the hole with a small dab of clear silicone.
  • haroldhx1haroldhx1 Member Posts: 14
    I have a Mazda 626 LX, Auto, 4cyl with 75000 miles. Started from March 18, the CEL began to come on occasionally. It happens more often at night than day (I don't understand the difference between day and night, except for the headlights). It only came on after the Engine is warmed up. It sometimes stay on longer and sometimes came off one minutes later. Went to the Dealer, and was told the MAF sensor need be replaced. I replaced it BY MYSELF, and the problem stays the same. I went to the dealer again, and they told me there was even no code set this time (how could it be? I didn't reset the code after I replaced the sensor, and the CEL came on several times again before I went to the dealer.) Something worse happened after I replaced the sensor. Now the engine tries to stall occasionally when I hit the brake suddently, or even when parking the car. The idle problem is actually an older problem than the CEL. In February, it stalled twice and after it's stalled, it's hard to restart the car. Some mechanic repaired it as a car starting problem by replacing the battery, cleaning the air intake and MAF sensor. After the repairment, the idle stall problem rarely occured, but now it came back!
    I couldn't find any vacuum leak. Pls tell me what I should do. Clean the Idel Air Control Valve? Replace O2 sensor? I feel frustrated and desperate. Is there any connection between the CEL and the idle problem? I don't understand why they only occur occasionally. By the way, the idle speed is rather low, only 300-350 rpm from what I read from the tach. So whenever it drops, it drops almost to zero. The dealer told me the idle speed was set at manufacturing and couldn't be adjusted. Another quite old problem of the car is that some fan seems not working when at low speed: if I drive along a slow street with many traffic light, the engine temp will rise way above normal. It will cool down after I speed up. But the CEL is a quite recent problem, shouldn't be caused by the fan relay.
    Sorry for the long post. Any suggestion is appreciated!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start by carefully inspecting the air intake ducting to the throttle body for any cracks or damage. Unmetered air downstream from the mass air flow sensor can cause the symptoms you describe.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Don't know how I am going to proceed from here(i.e purchase scanner(about $200-300)) or what, but I sure would like to. But then, I feel like I'm just wanting problems so I can justify its cost. Crazy, I know. And even if I can identify DTC's, there's even more expertise involved in diagnosing the associated components and wiring.
    I can just see myself standing there holding the two probes of a voltmeter whilst the entire wiring harness is frying.LOL
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Steve, been there, done that, wondered why I was in this trade, took a Valium. You'll have to look at it this way: the scanner costs $300, a scan costs $50 - $60, so it'd pay for itself in maybe 6 scans. But the car's under warranty so the scans should be free. I'd buy it anyway. LOL
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Now, the next problem is convincing the wife that with this gizmo, all our problems will be solved. Heck, I'm having trouble getting her to agree I need window tint.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    What we really need isn't a car repair site, it's:

    http://www.honeyijusthavetohavethistoolitwillpayforitselfinnotimeandlifewillbewonderful.com
    LOL
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    fritz1224,

    Once you have a scanner, there are 2 ways to proceed.

    One is to purchase a cd from Chiltons, Total car care CD around $20

    or for $20 a year, you can get a subscription to Alldata's DIY on-line manual Alldata DIY


    I don't know about the Chilton's Total car care CD, but I do know that the Alldata DIY has flowcharts for trouble code diagnostics.

  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    That's funny. Think we can start one. Probably get a lot of hits.
    Opatience, I have the Mazda service manual with all the flow charts and DTC troubleshooting info. Just need to make the leap for the scanner.
  • ddraves461ddraves461 Member Posts: 4
    Here's a real stumper. I purchased my 92 Ranger 4 years ago and the "check engine light" has been an active part of the trucks life. I've had it checked out several time and there are no codes set in the computer. This winter I ran into a problem where as I'd be driving and all of a sudden there was nothing at the gas pedal, but the truck was still running, well sort, it would eventually stall. After sitting on the side of the road for a few minutes it would start and act as if it was flooded, eventually it would return to normal and be fine for a few days and back to the same routine. I've had the sensors, connections and computer checked and the Ford mechanics find nothing out of the ordinary and everything checks out fine. The last time it happened I changed the fuel filter and that corrected the problem for about a month. Thats when the real problems started and the truck had to be towed into the shop. Since then I've changed the fuel pump, filter again, cap, rotor, wires, coil and it still is acting up and cutting out. When it cuts out, just prior the CEL comes on, no power and the temp and amp gauge go to the off position on the gauge and the lights dim, it may or may not still run, acting if bogged down or flooded out. I'm at wits end with the truck, but can't afford to trade it off. Its been a great little truck and I'd like to keep it around for awhile more yet. Can anyone help?? I need something a do-it-yourselfer can check and repair as the stock I hold in Ford is getting more expensive than buying a new house. The dealer wanted $370. to change the fuel pump alone!!!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    fritz1224,

    There are alot of scanners out there, right now we are putting a relatively inexpensive PC based scanner to the test. It runs around $170 and is set up for all major manufacturers. Don't know how well it is going to work, but I thikn it will be worht checking out. The scanner is available at CarCode Scanner A discount is available for that scanner,but I prefer not to post it here.

    Professional courtesy, you know.


    ddraves461,

    You need to have a scanner put on the truck that has a moniter mode and moniter the vehicle while it is operating.

    Next time the check engine light comes on, pull the trouble codes yourself.

    Here are 2 web pages that give the info to pull the codes. Ford code info and Dalidesign Ford code info

    The codes may be there if you are able to pull them right away.

    One thing though, have you replaced the fuel filter and checked the exhaust flow?

  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Sounds like they're getting into affordable territory(at least for me). If it's PC based, does that mean you have to have a laptop or download the scanner's info. to your computer? Well, you gave me the link, so maybe I should check that out first before asking questions about it, huh?
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Yeah, that thing's nice. Wish I knew what the hell they are talking about. What color is it, I like red. LOL
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    fritz,
    the PC based scanners use a laptop or desktop and the cable that plugs into the vehicle goes to a serial port on the PC(or laptop).And it pulls the info from the vehicle.
    The laptop is by far the best to use, because you can road test the vehicle and use the laptop to moniter while it is operating.
    If you are interested in the scanner and think it is something you want to persue, e-mail me and I will give you some discount info. I am not endorsing it yet, as we are still testing it and I haven't heard the results on it.
  • ddraves461ddraves461 Member Posts: 4
    Yea, have changed the fuel filter on the Ranger a total of 3 times in the last few months. Sometimes it helps for awhile and sometimes no change. Will have the exhaust checked. It appears that something on the truck heats up and cuts out, like a relay. When it sits and cools it allows the truck to start until it heats up again. Wondered if the fuel pump relay was cutting out or one of the other relays was getting weak in old age. Seems when temps outside were about 0 to 25 degrees it ran OK, but when we had a thaw or warm spell of temps in 30's to low 40's is when the trouble started back up. The truck originally came to Ohio from Florida when we moved in Sept 2000 and ran OK there until recently. Maybe its a way of adapting from Florida to Ohio weather...
  • 97jettagtgrl97jettagtgrl Member Posts: 10
    well, even though my mechanic said that no hoses were pinched, VW said that there was and charged me 125 to fix it. Not only were they rude to me (when I went to drop off my car, they told me I couldn't sign for dropping of my parents car...too bad its MY car..then I was told that they don't fix bicycles...HAHA very funny at 7am) Also a funny thing...I was told to pick it up at 3 because they hand wash all of the cars...NOT MINE..my car is white, and there was more dirt on the car then when I dropped it off in the first place!
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    First,the check engine light does not in any way have anything to do with diagnostics.It is only an indication to the operator that there is a problem.And since the sensors and computer are a major pat of the engine systems,yes mechanics have come to rely more on the scanners to do diagnostics.What your saying is like saying that if your computer is only working on part of it's system,then nothing is wrong.DUH!Yes something is wrong.And now to clue you in.If the diagnostics is done right,checking the computer(NOT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT)is an aid in locating the problem.Any good mechanic will tell you that just because it says the O2 sensor has coded,doesn't mean the sensor is bad,it means the O2 system has a problem and it is up to the mechanic to find out why.The check engine light is not and never has been a tool.Where do you get this stuff?Do you have any idea what you are talking about?Clearly not.I have been working on vehicles way before the advent of any sensors or electronics and you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.So before you go saying really stupid stuff,do your homework.Give me a break.
  • ns97ns97 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, is extraordinary the way people help each other. I am new in this forum and I want to share with you my 'Check Engine' light history, maybe this will help some of you. As you noticed I was also a victim of that yellow light on my '97 Nissan Sentra. I was scared and unable to have a good sleep so I said to myself 'this has to stop' and I made my first move-I bought a Haynes repair manual. Hopefully this type of car has a computer that can also make diagnostics without a scanner or another device. I made everything the book said and the 'Check Engine' light started to give me some flashes 9/3 (nine slow and three fast) and 7/5. I set the light to off, put back the computer and RETRIEVED CODE DESCRIPTION FROM THE BOOK - everything in 1 hour. Code 9/3 stands for 'Minor fuel leak' and 7/5 for 'Leakage at EVAP valve'. Now comes the second part. As somebody earlier very well said - the computer "tells you the street not the street no.", I found and checked that valve, and no leakage. I guess that now I have to control all the low-pressure fuel lines.
    Checking for that valve I discovered that my car HAS NO Charcoal Evaporative Fuel Canister although I found it in the book at all model years (95,96,97,98) in two different places. Could be the third place? Could the ex-owner have removed it and the car parameters are still in range? Can you 0patience, alcan or somebody else please help me with this issue? Thank you in advance.
  • la2meadla2mead Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know of a reliable discount source for purchasing factory Motorcraft O2 sensors?

    Has anyone had experience with aftermarket O2 sensors? Are there fit problems, do they last as long?

    I have a 97 Ford E-350 Super Duty (Van chassis)V10 with 83,000 miles, and the "check engine" light has been coming on for a while, now. The OBDII gave the code "Bank One Sensor 2, Oxygen Sensor" per the mechanic. I thought, oh, that's easy... then called around for pricing to buy all 3 factory Motorcraft O2 sensors. I guess I was not prepared to find the parts alone cost nearly $300. I can save a significant amount by buying Bosch from Napa. I am hoping to find a discount source for the Ford parts, or learn from other's experience with the Bosch replacements.
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    Had check engine lights twice with this. Both times while the vehicle was idling in gear. (A parking garage exit that was really slow, and a very slow drive through.)

    Anyway, I got the code from the first time which was a code 44, lean mixture or something to that effect.

    I am looking for a troubleshooting flow chart. I didn't see it in my Haynes manual for the car. I just returned from my library and Chiltons doesn't have it either.

    Does anyone know a good online exhaustive reference for that type of information? Or can someone post the troubleshooting tree for this code. I don't want to just throw parts at it.

    But if I need to start pitching, I'm thinking:

    1. Vacuum Leak/Intake leak.
    2. MAF dirty
    3. Low voltages
    4. Bad O2 sensor

    The light goes out when the vehicle gets moving.

    Any thoughts, help etc. The vehicle drives well, but trips this light during extended idling.

    TIA

    TB
  • vhuntervhunter Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Mazda 626, 5-speed manual, 4 cyl engine. CEL has now come on for the third time. First time vehicle stalled, got it running the next day and then the CEL came on. At this point vehicle had 27,000 miles on it. Took it to the dealer they replaced the catalytic converter and o2 sensor. Wondered about the stall but at this point it ran fine. Second time was 4 months later. Stalled wouldn't run CEL came on, towed to dealer. Depending upon who you listened to they said it was a bad plug or plug wire. This caused the front exhaust pipe to crack. Car had 31,000 miles on it. Had the 30,000 mile service performed,front pipe and o2 sensor replaced. Nice $1300 bill. Nine months later CEL light comes on after driving vehicle 100 miles highway driving. Within blocks of home light comes on. Next day vehicle runs fine,light still on. As a precaution (from past experience) I replaced the plugs. Still runs fine. The CEL light is still on, I presume it needs reset. What other sensors etc should I check? Any help appreciated
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Try the ignition module, had a Buick LeSabre, Chevy Astro, and Chevy s-10 all do the came thing. Took it in to the dealer and they said nothing was wrong. Come to find out the ignition module wouldn't set a DTC, and that is why they all got stumped. It is not cheap part, around $100 for the 4 cyl and $150 for the big 6 cyl. Replaced a couple on Rangers before. Definitely worth the try to keep you on the road and off the shoulder. Am not sure about current fords, but my grandpa's Fairmont, and my uncles F-150 used to go through them like crazy. In either event check to see if your local parts store can test it if you bring it in to them, most can now a days, and save the money for the real problem if thats not it. Good luck.
  • ddraves461ddraves461 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks! Will give it a try, haven't been getting anywhere with other things I've tried. Have a feeling that may be the culprit. Seems when it warms up is when the problems start, ran great during the winter months when the outside temp was 5-30 degrees, but when it warmed up outside, it started having convulsions again. Will keep you posted. Thanks again!!
  • nadavinadavi Member Posts: 14
    can some one give me some tips on how to change the PCV valve on 3.8L 1988. what should I disassemble in order to get comfortable accesses to this valve?
  • atahiratahir Member Posts: 1
    Hello Folks,


    I Just bought a 1988 Acura Legend as a Second car. It has 156K miles and looked to be in very good condition. After driving it for two weeks, its check engine light came on. When I turn the car off and then back on again the light goes off for a couple of days. After loosing a couple of night sleep, I visited this page yesterday and got some useful information. Thanks to the web site at http://www.batauto.com/acura.html I was able to retrieve the code (I think). When I turn the key on the and look at the Engine Control Units LED under the front passenger seat. It gives one long flash then a pause and then eight quick flashes. Now if I do not turn they key off, it keeps giving eight quick flashes separated by a pause. I am assuming that it the code 8, however, there is no code 8 listed for Legend at the above listed site (they have provided a list of codes for Integras and Legends). There is a code 8 listed for Integra which is TDC sensor or circuit. What the heck is TDC? If someone has access to Acura Trouble Code, could they please tell me if code 8 means the same thing for Legend and translate it in plain English for me. Acura dealer is asking for $90 just to retrieve the code. Who know where they’ll go from there… Please help!

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    TDC is Top Dead Centre, usually referring to #1 piston in the engine. The powertrain control module typically uses this as a reference for functions such as fuel injector control and ignition timing advance. For further clarification re the TDC sensor (probably the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor) suggest you post here:

    http://www.batauto.com/cgi-bin/Forum/db_TalkToMeV2.cgi?forum_name=imports
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    Hi friends,

    1997 Mazda protege 60000 miles.

    The check engine light is on and got the error
    codes by a dealer.
    P1170
    P0176
    P0505

    Anyo suggestion?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    P0505 - Idle Control System malfunction.
    Check for vacuum leaks or open or short in the Idle Air control motor circuit.

    P1170 - Front heated Oxygen Sensor - inversion
    Causes Low fuel
    Oxygen sensor or circuit faulty
    Intake, ignition or fuel system malfunction.

    I would check for a vacuum leak as both codes can be tripped by a vacuum leak.

    The P0176, I do not find for your vehicle.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    I think you are right because sometime I can
    hear some noise under the car. The frequency is
    2-3Hz(maybe) and doesn't change even if I push
    the gas pedal. I can even fell the shaking when
    my foot is on the brake. If I get off the car,
    I can hear the noise like air leaking under the
    car.

    "the P017x range, which deals with fuel trim"
    Got from "MAZDA PROTEGE PROBLEMS"
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    Th enoise sound from the gas tank, is it possible to be a fuel pump problem?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Ahhh, P0170 should be the fuel trim code, but none the less, Fuel pressure should be checked if tehere is no vacuum leak found.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    The check engine light will remain on unless I disconnect the battery for a while. It will come back after I drive it for 1 or 2 days (50 - 60KM).
    The dealer said it's not easy to find out the problem and they need 3 hours labor. If they can REALLY find out the problem and fix it, that will be fine. But I heared some terrible story about the CEL problem, and I'm afraid it's just a beginning......
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    If you disconnect the battery to get the light to go out, the dealer will have a really hard time finding the problem. Three hour seems a bit extreme to pull a code from the brain. Let the light stay on and take it in, should only take an hour at the most to figure it out that way. If the light bugs you put a piece of electrical tape over it until you get to the dealer. When you disconnect the battery you erase the memory on the computer and makes it diffucult to get to the root cause of the CEL being on in the first place.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    No, The light was on when I went to the dealer, they read out the code and said they need 3 more hours.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Member Posts: 10
    Just checked service manual in the libary, code P0176 is "Fuel composition sensor circuit malfunction".
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    It might be the O2 sensor. That can pop a code if it is starting to go bad. It is also related to the fuel consumption circuit, tells the computer how much fuel to give under different conditions.
  • bikybiky Member Posts: 20
    I just found this discussion board. Thought I might get the cure to my illness... well, actually my car's :) it's a Jeep GC 1997 with 4.0L. I bought it in Aug 99. Did run fine for a few months. Last summer it started giving some wierd problem. The rpm would fluctuate up and down. Later this problem grew to switching of gears without any reason, like even if i'm going on a plain road with cruise on, the car would sometime shift down to 3rd and try 4th a little later. As this problem grew, the vehicle would hesitate to shift to 4th gear (i.e. overdrive) Sometimes, when it did, it won't stay there for long and shift down to 3rd again. This was so annoying that I sometime drove with OD switched OFF, so that it does not try overdrive at all. I had got this checked up again and again at 3 different dealerships. Every time, they'll adjust one of the cables and it would work a little better... for a few days... or if lucky, a few weeks. I have Chrysler Service Contract (MaxCare), so I hardly have to spend anything out of my pocket to get it fixed... (fixed??? not yet)

    Anyway, last week, the problem grew further, while driving on a local road here, the rpm shot up to more than 4000 and the Jeep dint want to speed up (or maintain speed). It was like pressing the gas pedal while pressing the clutch on a manual shift car. The Check Engine light lit up. I shut off the car and then started it again. The CEL din't go, but I was somehow able to make it back home. The following day, I took it to a dealership here. They checked and said that the Speed Sensor was faulty and that they replaced it. I took the jeep, drove it for a couple of days, was all right. But again, yesterday, the same problem occured and the CEL came on. This time I was on the freeway when the jeep suddenly refused to accelerate.

    It has been almost 10-11 months since I started having this problem, and I've lost track of how many times I have had this looked by the dealerships, I'm guessing 10-11 on this too. I have always used premium gas, din't mind paying a little more to keep my Jeep running great. But guess I'm not that lucky. I checked the code this time myself, it is 15, which means Speed Sensor problem (same). I am quite fed up with this. Can somebody tell me what exactly is the problem, and why is that all these dealerships are not fixing the problem once for all. Or are they not competent enough to get to the root cause of the problem?

    Also, is there a chance that this behavior is caused b'coz I'm using 92/93 octane gas (premium)? Can higher octane gas cause damage to the engine/other parts? I guess not, but I thought I'll still ask.

    Any feedback would be helpful and greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    The dealership gives a 90 day warranty on the fix, obviously they got it wrong. Or at least treated the symptom, and not the problem. This may sound goofy but take it to a 5 star dealer. I had one dealer tell me that they couldn't find anything wrong with my van, so I gave up on them and located a 5 star dealer and low and behold it got repaired.
  • bikybiky Member Posts: 20
    thanks for your reply. but i forgot to mention in my post that all the three dealerships i've taken my car to were 5 star. i kinda started doubting this certification. if these dealerships cant find a root of the problem, who else can? anyway, i'll try another dealership this time. thanks again.
  • phelpsgphelpsg Member Posts: 15
    In my opinion, the check engine light is something dreamed up by the car companies to make money on repairs. If they wanted to help out the owners, they would put a table of all problem codes in the owners manual and design the check engine light to display the problem code any time the light comes on. That way you could have a good idea of the problem before taking it in for repairs. Also, they should make it easy for the owner to reset the light because many people could fix their own problems.
  • aldehydealdehyde Member Posts: 26
    biky, I had a very simliar problem and it ended up being a faulty oxygen sensor -- it only acts up when the engine is warm, so when the service people fire it up cold, the engine works just great and they say there's no problem. Only after fifteen minutes or so did the problem show up. Took three visits in to figure it out and my '97 JGC was out of warranty so that new oxygen sensor (and the distributor they changed out before they realized what was up) cost a pretty penny. Good luck...
  • deebob77deebob77 Member Posts: 4
    I have '96 Chevy Corsica with a constant check engine light, and annual alternator repairs. Every time the mechanic fixes it, 2 or 3 days later the perpetual light is back on. The ABS light comes on intermittenly and goes off - sometimes stays on. This is the most costly inexpensive car I have ever owned. We are definitely getting rid of it soon. Car dealers don't even want to take it as a trade in and i have a conscience and can't sell it to anyone. Donating it to charity doesn't seem charitable. I guess we will run it to the ground and send it to the chopper.
  • deebob77deebob77 Member Posts: 4
    This is a P.S.

    Thank GOD this was the last year they made this car to spare potential Corsica buyers in the future.
  • self_mechanicself_mechanic Member Posts: 95
    The check engine light on my 97 honda civic with
    70K mile just showed up today. Does anyone have
    any idea what is the cause and where can I
    retrieve the code besede dealer. Also how can I
    reset the check engine light. Appreciate your
    input.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    There is a way, but requires a special connector to plug into the "Service Check Connector".
    The connector is located under the dash on the passenger side. I have no idea what the service connector consists of, but with it connected, the check engine light will flash codes. This method is extremely crude and not reliable at all. It was designed as a method to check basic things.
    Best thing is to have the codes scanned with a scanner.
    anyone who offers a guess at what why the check engine light is on, is GUESSING, plain and simple, with dozens of possibilitie, any of them could be the cause.
  • nadavinadavi Member Posts: 14
    code 65 is showing (Oldsmobile 1988, 3.8 I, 160K). I changed to PCV valve - can it be relevant to code 65?.

    how do I reset the light?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Code 65 = Incorrect EGR Flow
    Post back with the engine code (8th digit in the VIN). Makes a difference in type of EGR and diagnosis. Disconnect negative battery cable for minimum 10 minutes to delete trouble codes and turn of CEL.
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