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Check Engine light

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Comments

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Your vehicle has the OBD2 system,it has to be reset by a scanner.
    If the light is on,it will shut off when the problem is fixed or goes away(ha ha).
    Is it the check engine light or the oil change light?
    If it is the check engine light,then you have to find out what the codes are(scanner only) and repair the problem.
  • Most obd11 cars are very emission control sensitive. Sometimes, if the gas cap is not tightened enough (or is improperly venting) the light will come on. Check the simple stuff first. Also, most cars will turn off the light after 2 or so proper engine check cycles. It is probably an emission control problem.
  • wtdwtd Posts: 96
    The service engine soon light on my 93 S-10 comes on and stores a code 43 which is for the knock sensor circuit. The sensor was replaced but the light still comes on and is still showing code 43 which is the only code that is being stored. The light only comes on when the engine is cold and within the first 5 minutes of driving and only usually stays on between 10 and 30 seconds. Once the engine is warm, the light does not come on. The light is pretty inconsistant on when it comes on. It does not come on every time you drive it. Here is the following parts that have been replaced so far: Knock sensor, PCM, Prom chip, EGR valve, coolant temperature sensor, and connector that connects on the Knock sensor. Dealer had it for two days but light never came on. I am now out of ideas. You can usually tell when the light will come on because the truck runs a little rough. Truck has the 4.3L V-6. Could this be some kind of mechanical problem? Any help appretiated.
  • I'm wondering if there is a possible short in the line somewhere. If you literally "tap" on the engine with a hammer or something lightly, you can usually get most engines to pull a knock code (or a scanning computer will note a higher knock number) How's the timing? Have you changed gas or anything else that could be a simple check? How are the engine mounts? If you can, I'd have a shop keep it overnight, then throw it in a "good" scanner that can monitor things like short and long term block learn, and keep a running tab of all sensors and voltages. My old shop teacher brought in one of his snap-on scan tools from one of his shops and that thing was pretty awesome. It was able to monitor virtually every single component. When we had his vehicle in a stall-test situation, it told us things like how much the car "pinged" in a few second cycle. My point is sometimes it takes a good scan tool under "your" conditions to replicate and properly read the problem and other problems that might be causing it. Maybe the engine is just getting older and needs a little "volitility" assistance through a slightly higher octane rating.
  • I have a few questions regarding oxygen sensors on a 94 Mazda MX-6 (V6 2.5l engine, same as Ford Probe GT). Some time ago, my CEL would go on occasionally, and my idle wasn't as constant anymore, after checking the code, I found out the rear oxygen sensor is faulty, nothing uncommon. Now I have a few questions, both general as well as specific regarding O2 sensors, and if any of you could help, I would really appreciate it. Particularly 0patience appears to very knowledable :). Ok, here wo go. I've read that the original OEM O2-sensor (Bosch 15708),a 4 wire heated sensor for non-CA emission equipped vehicles can be replaced by a Bosch 13275 (significantly cheaper), the only difference is that it has a different connector. Now, my car has CA emissions (strange cause it is a NY vehicle) but it has the CA emission package, and therefore has a 3-wire O2 sensor, OEM is Bosch 15709. Now, I was wondering if I could replace it with a 13276 which is a 3-wire 02-sensor too? anyone has any info on this. in general, ths raises the difference, what is the general difference between all these 02-sensors anyway, apart from heated/non-heated and number of wires and/or connector type? Could I just buy any 02-sensor with the same number of wires and connect it?
    or is there a difference in terms of heating coil resistance and/or sensor voltage? also, why are some 3 and some 4 wires, could I just use a 4-wire sensor and connect the ground (4th wire) to the chassis? Are all the OEM sensors just a rip-off or are there real differences (except the price)?
    Thanks for any help!
  • I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand AM. The "Check Engine Light" came on, and stays on. The engine seems to be performing normally. I checked the owners manual, checked the gas cap, and can't seem to find any obvious problems. Car has 41,000. miles.
  • Your car is equipped with OBD II (On Board Diagnostics Generation 2), and a scan tool is required to extract trouble codes.
  • For the last 1 and a half years the service engine soon light (MIL) has come on and off (about 5 times) in this vehicle (96 Dodge Grand Caravan SE.) There are 2 codes stored in the PCM. One is a 43 which points to multiple cylinder misfire. Curiously, the code 43 is always preceded by a 12 or power cut to PCM even though I didn't disconnect the battery. The SES light will go out after a period of time (3 or more days to a few weeks.) Codes are always 12 and 43. The 3.3 V6 has a good reputation. Replaced plugs and wires at 72,000. Made no difference. It just came on again this week. Engine runs slightly rough prior to light coming on but may run rough for as much as a week prior to SES light coming on. We have 80,000 on it and love it otherwise. We had it to two 5 star Dodge dealers. One said it had a sticking valve ( I can't hear it) and the other one didn't know what. I feel stupid, amazed and $80.00 poorer. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone who has experienced this.
  • The check engine light has been coming on for 13 months. Have had ox sensor, fuel pump, fuel induction service, new plugs and wires, valve cover gasket all replaced and the purge control solenoid cleaned (clogged with carbon) and now being replaced this week. Nothing has worked. The dealer attributes some of the problem to carbon build-up which they stated caused the purge control solenoid to go bad. Nothing has kept the light off for more than a few days and the cost to repair this car is outrageous. Any ideas??
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    sched44,
    Doubtfully a sticking valve,more than likely an electrical problem.I'll check a little further and post more later.
    Code 43 (ignore the code 12)
    Spark Control.
    Ignition coil No. 1 primary circuit malfunction.
    Ignition coil No. 2 primary circuit malfunction.
    Multiple cylinder misfire.
    Cylinder No. 1 has misfired.
    Cylinder No. 2 has misfired.
    Cylinder No. 3 has misfired.
    Cylinder No. 4 has misfired.

    mitch38,
    You need to post what trouble codes were retrieved. If you are throwing parts at it without knowing what the trouble codes are, STOP.
    Get the trouble codes and we can help.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    The code 43 can be set because of a faulty injector or bad cam lobe also.
    Have they checked secondary ignition pattern with an engine analyzer? That should be doen to confirm that the plug wires are ok. Did you use a good quality plug wire set? Cheap plug wires can cause the code 43.
    Check firing order, plug wires and compression.
  • zduanzduan Posts: 3
    I have a 94 Cavalier, 2.2L Engine. Recently, When I drive it at about 50mph for about 3-4 miles. The "Check Engine Light" will come on. and collant fan begin running, although the coolant temperature is not high. and fan keep runing until I shut down the engine.

    If I shut down the engine and restart it.(do not wait engine to cool) the light is not on. And every thing is normal. But if I drive it at about 50mph for 3-4mails again the light come one again. If I drive at low speed(under 40mph) the light never come on and fan shown no problem.

    If I start the engine and run at idle. The fan will begin working when engine is hot and shut down automaticly when coolant temperature is low.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Locate the ALCL connector. Should be under the dash near the steering column, 2 rows of sockets with 6 sockets each. Key off, jumper right upper terminal and next terminal to the left of it. A paper clip will do. Turn the key to ON (don't start the engine), and count the flashes on the Check Engine light. Eg Blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink = code 23. Record all the codes and post back with them. This works on mid-95 and older GM's. Late 95 and newer have OBD-II, have a 16 pin connector, and require a scan tool to retrieve codes.
  • It cost me $70 to have Ford tell me I had a bad O2 (Oxygen) Sensor on my 95 Ford Bronco. They want $200 to install a replacement! Is this something for the "do-it-yourself" guy??? Any help on how to R&R this sensor would be appreciated... Thanx
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The O2 sensor is about the size of a spark plug, with a 3(usually) wire connector, in the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter. I'm not sure about accessability on the Bronco, but it's basically disconnect the wiring harness, unscrew the sensor (it's gonna be tight), screw in the replacement, and reconnect the sensor. Some require anti-sieze compound on the threads. The instructions? with the sensor should specify. Disconnect the battery for 10 seconds afterwards to erase the codes.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    Service Engine Soon light was on a few miles after I bought my 2001 Nissan Sentra new. Wife drove it home so it may have been on out of the chute. I have put on 175 miles in 1 month and thought the light might clear by itself if the problem went away (loose gas cap.etc) I have avoided taking it back to dealer because I wanted to break in the engine a little instead of the yard jocky over-reving it. Anyhow, If I disconnect battery will it go away if there is no further trouble?

    Thank-you
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hi there. Just talked to the foreman of the local Nissan dealership. "To the best of my knowledge the only way to turn off the MIL is to erase the stored DTC's with a scan tool. Disconnecting battery power from the ECU won't do it".
    If it's a soft code, (condition no longer exists eg. gas cap was loose) a given number of drive cycles will clear it. Typically, this consists of starting the engine cold (less than 160 F), driving it above a given speed long enough to cycle the cooling fans twice, and being within 375 RPM and 10% load of conditions when the MIL triggered, IF the fault no longer exists.. Could take 50 - 60 trips to duplicate the conditions. Looks like you'll have to take it back to the dealer. Aftermarket shops won't have the 2001 software for their scan tools yet.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    Sounds like a plan. I'll take it back. I appreciate your efforts very much.

    Al
  • zduanzduan Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I did what you said. But "check engine" light did not flash at all. it stay on when I turn the key to "on" (not starting engine). I check Haynes book. It sound like they said when I jumper the test terminal and ground terminal, the "check engine" light should at least flast code 12. But my cavalier does not flash at all, and I am pretty sure I did jumper the right terminals. Because I even found the letter "A" and "B" marked beside the two terminal I jumpered and I tried three time this noon.

    Thanks in advance
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome, Al. Usually the aftermarket is 2-3 years behind the manufacturers in getting info and software, mainly because the mfg.'s won't release it. Best bet is to hang in the dealership and look as though it wouldn't be a good idea to abuse your car :-)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Are you SURE you had the jumper contacting both copper terminals? You should have gotten at least a code 12 (diagnostic mode). Either a: you jumpered the wrong terminals, but it sounds like you had A and B, b: you didn't make good contact with both terminals, c: you used a non-conductive jumper (I've seen people try using a bobby pin, which is coated), d: terminal A (ground) has an open circuit, e: terminal B (data) has an open circuit, f: the ECM's defective.
    Try this - jumper terminal B directly to a known good ground. That should put it in diagnostic mode.
  • Thanks much, alcan!!! I owe you a beer!!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Ha ha ha.....make that a Coors Light, please :-) Did you manage to get the O2 sensor in and the Check Engine cleared?
  • My 1996 Grand Caravan has a Code 17 flashing when I checked the codes. I looked this up and found that this code means engine too cold during closed loop operation. Does anyone know what this pretains to?
    Thanks.
  • Code 17 is caused if the engine is taking too long to warm up.A possible cause would be a defective or missing thermostat.You could get this code also if you lived in a super cold climate like alaska.It means that the engine temperature was still below 174 degrees after 8 minutes of operation.
  • I have a 1999 maxima se auto, and the service engine soon light just came on. The gas tank was very low and the light came on, I filled up and it still is on. Anyone have any suggestions? And if it was from the low fuel tank or the gas cap, anyone know how to reset the service engine soon light? Thanks
  • iepesiepes Posts: 1
    My '92 Toyota 4 Runner has on 65000 miles. Now the engine light is on and it makes horrible noise, barely drives. The Toyota dealer tells me >$6000 to rebuild it. I figure time to get a new car. Any ideas on what to do with my current one sitting in the dealer's service center? Should I call a junkyard? The car was otherwise in good shape
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Have you considered having a low mileage used engine installed? Good recycling yards usually offer a warranty, and they might be able to install it for a lot less than the dealer would want.
  • Thanks for the info. The engine is definitely not getting up to temperature. I'm having my mechanic check it as I type this.
    Thanks again for your response.
  • egeihsegeihs Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Nissan p/u with 2.4L 4 cyl, 73K miles. Check engine light started going off and on every couple of days around 67,000 miles; after 2 weeks it stayed off. At 68,000 it stayed on: dealer replaced air temp sensor. One week later, light comes on again: BPT valve and EGR valve changed. 2 weeks later, light comes on again: cleaned out intake manifold of carbon (or so they say). Total bill $1100. Now at 73,000 light is back on - now they say throttle position sensor and want $215 more bucks. I declined to have it done. Nissan dealer response: it's out of warranty, these things go bad, so pay up, sucker. Called Nissan national consumer affairs: same basic response: oh well, guess we sold you a bum vehicle but's it your problem now.
    Anyone have any similar problems with Nissan vehicles?
  • I HAVE AN 1987 OLDS CUTLASS CIERA WITH 137K MILES ON IT. I HAVE A BAD FUEL ODOR/SMELL WHEN I SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. IT STALLS OUT UNDER NORMAL LOAD AND AT IDLE . I HAVE CHANGED EVERYTHING FROM THE MAP SENSOR,O2 SENSOR (TWICE), FUEL FILTER AND TPS SENSOR. THAT ALONE HAS COST ME WELL OVER $1000.00. NOW I HAVE A BLOWN #2 CYLINDER. PROBLEMS STILL EXISTS.WHEN I DRIVE THE CAR; I HAVE TO KEEP MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR (POWER BRAKE) IT SO IT DOES NOT CUT OFF.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    First, please hit your CAPS LOCK key. We can see fine.
    Second, what's your question?
  • what's wrong wiht my car when the light comes on and everything i have changed seems not to fix it.....refer to question #382
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Locate the ALCL connector. Should be below the dash, near the steering column. 2 rows of 6 sockets each. Not all sockets have terminals in them. Jumper terminals A and B (right upper and next to left of it. They're marked) A paper clip will do. Key on, engine OFF, watch check engine light and count flashes. blink...pause...blink, blink = code 12. Each code will repeat 3 times. Post back with trouble codes found.
  • pdeppdep Posts: 2
    I'm leasing a 2001 Impala and was told that I should bring the car in to the dealer for routine mainenance because only they can reset the warning light that will come on every 3mos/3000 miles. Is there a way I or another mechanic can reset this warning light if I get service from outside the dealer?
  • Any shop that has a diagnostic scanner can clear light. Usually a shop that performs diagnostic.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Or is it the check engine light??

    If it is the check engine light, the only way to reset it is a scanner, but if the problem isn't fixed, the light will come back on again.

    If it is the oil change or mantenance required light, then turn the key to on, not start, step down on the throttle pedal 3 times and the light should start to blink, when the light starts to blink, turn the key off, the next time you start the car, the light should go out.
  • I need help with a 1990 Celebrity wagon 3.1 V6, 4 speed automatic overdrive transmission whose SES light comes on when the car decelerates from above 55 mph. This started to happen intermittently around 3 years ago at about 100,000 miles. My local Chevy dealer closed about 6 months before so I took it to a GM (Buick) dealer near my work who said the Celebrity wagon was similar enough to the Buick wagon that they’d have no problem working on it. The dealer told me the codes showed a problem in the EGR circuit and the invoice said “EGR solenoid shorted, Replace EGR valve.” The SES still came on with deceleration and stays on as long as the car is running but goes out when the car is turned off and will come on the next time the car slows down from 55 to 52 miles per hour. The dealer then replaced the “ECM”. The SES came on under the same conditions. The dealer then replaced the “PROM”. The SES came on under the same conditions. The dealer suggested replacing the wiring harness for the EGR since the car has the electronic EGR valve at a cost of several more hundred dollars or since the car runs fine just live with it. The SES light now only comes on when the car goes above 55 and allowed to decelerate. The SES light comes on at 52 mph 99.9% of the time. If it is very hot, above 95 degrees F, or very cold, below 20 degrees F, it may not light up. I have lived with the yellow SES light now for several years usually when I exit the highway. The car ran fine and passed the old emission inspections.

    This was not a big deal until I failed the new emissions test here in Georgia run on a dynamo. Last year the car failed with a high reading of NO-ppm (NOX). The shop where I’ve had good service on multiple cars said the catalytic converter was worn out, replaced it and the car passed. The SES light still came on under the exact same conditions. This year the car failed again with NO-ppm at 2282 with the allowable limit of 1163. The HC were 15 (allowable 162) and CO-% 0.01 (allowable 1.04). The shop said they could replace the converter again and with a brand new converter the NO-ppm might drop low enough to pass the test but that would not solve the EGR problem. They gave me some names of other shops in the area that do emissions work to see if the car can be fixed. Before goin to a new shop I'd like some advice. I checked the codes and get a “12-32-12”. Also the car does have an after-market gas cap but it has passed the gas cap test on emissions every year. The car has had new plugs, PCV valve, radiator and coolent temperature sensors since the SES problem developed without any effect on the SES.

    I’m sure that since the SES light only comes on with deceleration that there is a specific problem in the EGR system. Hopefully this makes since to someone who will then know how to fix what ever is malfunctioning and setting the code. Would a GM gas cap make a difference? I’ve tried 93 octane gas and there is no difference. I’d really like to know what is wrong so the car can be fixed.
  • I need help with a 1990 Celebrity wagon 3.1 V6, 4 speed automatic overdrive transmission whose SEA light comes on when the car decelerates from above 55 mph. This started to happen intermittently around 3 years ago at about 100,000 miles. My local Chewy dealer closed about 6 months before so I took it to a GM (Buick) dealer near my work who said the Celebrity wagon was similar enough to the Buick wagon that they’I have no problem working on it. The dealer told me the codes showed a problem in the EAR circuit and the invoice said "EAR solenoid shorted, Replace EAR valve." The SEA still came on with deceleration and stays on as long as the car is running but goes out when the car is turned off and will come on the next time the car slows down from 55 to 52 miles per hour. The dealer then replaced the "CM". The SEA came on under the same conditions. The dealer then replaced the "PROM". The SES came on under the same conditions. The dealer suggested replacing the wiring harness for the EGR since the car has the electronic EGR valve at a cost of several more hundred dollars or since the car runs fine just live with it. The SES light now only comes on when the car goes above 55 and allowed to decelerate. The SES light comes on at 52 mph 99.9% of the time. If it is very hot, above 95 degrees F, or very cold, below 20 degrees F, it may not light up. I have lived with the yellow SES light now for several years usually when I exit the highway. The car ran fine and passed the old emission inspections.

    This was not a big deal until I failed the new emissions test here in Georgia run on a dynamo. Last year the car failed with a high reading of NO-ppm (NOX). The shop where I’ve had good service on multiple cars said the catalytic converter was worn out, replaced it and the car passed. The SES light still came on under the exact same conditions. This year the car failed again with NO-ppm at 2282 with the allowable limit of 1163. The HC were 15 (allowable 162) and CO-% 0.01 (allowable 1.04). The shop said they could replace the converter again and with a brand new converter the NO-ppm might drop low enough to pass the test but that would not solve the EGR problem. They gave me some names of other shops in the area that do emissions work to see if the car can be fixed. Before goin to a new shop I'd like some advice. I checked the codes and get a "12-32-12". Also the car does have an after-market gas cap but it has passed the gas cap test on emissions every year. The car has had new plugs, PCV valve, radiator and coolent temperature sensors since the SES problem developed without any effect on the SES.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Code 12 = diagnostic mode
    Code 32 = EGR valve - or - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor open circuit
  • pdeppdep Posts: 2
    Many thanks for the tip. I knew there had to be some way to do this. I appreciate the help
  • Code 32 relates to the EGR system.Also a problem in the EGR system will cause high NOx.A lot of times the orifices get plugged on the digital EGR valves with carbon.Try taking EGR valve off and cleaning the three different size orifices and also the EGR passage in manifold.
  • I DID THAT AND CODE FOR THE O2 SENSOR CAME UP;I CHANGED IT TWICE . I ALSO CHANGED THE MAP SENSOR.THE CODES THAT ARE IN THERE STILL ARE : 45 (RICH EXHAUST) I CHANGED EVERYTHING FROM THE WIRE SET, COIL PAK, SPARK PLUGS,AND TPS SENSOR. I TOOK IT TO A AUTO SHOP AND THEY TOLD ME THAT I HAVE A #2 CYLINDER DEAD(ALOT OF OIL WAS IN THE HOLE WITH THE SPARK PLUG). NOW WHAT DO I DO? THE CAR HAS 137K MILES ON IT...I HAVE TO KEEP FOOT ON PEDAL WHEN I DRIVE ...PLEASE ADVISE... WORRIED 71
  • I know this isn't a "check engine light" story, but it's close.

    I own a 1994 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GT. About a year ago, the "low coolant" light came on. After driving home, I checked under the hood and found that I had plenty of coolant according to the dipstick indicator. I also checked the next day, when the engine was cool. The dipstick still showed plenty of coolant.

    Just to be on the safe side, I added some coolant to the reservoir. However, the low coolant light still came on that day, after about 15 minutes of driving.

    That week, I took the car to my local Pontiac dealership's service department. I asked them to check out the problem. When I got my car back that night, they claimed they couldn't find any problem.

    Driving the car home, sure enough, the coolant light came on. After driving the car another month, with no problems other than the light, I returned to the dealership service department. I asked the dealer to check if the coolant system was leaking. The dealership kept the car overnight, to check the leak. The next day, I picked the car up. No leak, according to the service advisor. I complained that the light would still come on. The service advisor told me that fixing the light was not worth looking into, as it would be an expensive repair. His attitude was, if the only thing wrong with your car is the light, then don't worry about it.

    Since then, I have had the coolant flushed at least twice, and added coolant on my own, just to be safe. The light still comes on each and every day, once the engine has been running for 15 minutes or so. However, there have been no other problems.

    Has anyone else run into this problem? My girlfriend's brother has a newer model Firebird with the WS6 option, and supposedly he has had the same problem.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    remember that the codes only give you a direction to go in, they do NOT mean that the sensor is bad, but there is a problem with the circuit.
    A dead cylinder would definitely cause a rich condition.

    You need to check what the compression is of each cylinder, if one is extremely low and oil soaked, then it is possible that it may be time for a major repair.
  • Thanks for the input. How much of a job is it to check and clean the EAR orifices and passages in the manifold of a 3.1 v6? Are there other suggestions of why decelerating would set the SEA light? Since it always comes on at the same time, could there be a vacuum leak or other gas flow problem?
  • It is not hard to clean the three orifices of the EGR valve.Spray with carb cleaner and spray the EGR passage on the manifold also.With the digital EGR valve a code 32 is set when the vehicle is in the decel mode,the computer will cycle the solenoids on and off individually and look for a resulting change in engine rpm and 02 sensor activity.On some the computer,during decel mode,with the valves normally closed,the computer opens each valve in succession(while keeping previous valves open)and manifold pressure is monitored(map sensor)for an appropriate increase associated with each valve's application.The three orifices are different sizes and one being the smallest tends to get plugged up the fastest.
  • bmwssrbmwssr Posts: 1
    I have a 96 bonneville e. The check engine light comes on randomly. It stays on anywhere from 1 hour to 2 days. My auto traction light comes on and off when it likes. when the car is moving or standing still. The dealer said I needed an EGR and a Mass air flow valve total $750.00. could not find any reason for the traction light of course the light was off when I got to the dealer. I recently passed inspection on 12/04/00. The car has now stated to cut off while waiting at a light. I had a tri pod joint replaced 12/20/00. It cost around $750.00 also. this light issue started around 12/29/00. I checked gas cap,changed fuel to higher octane. I've always used 87 befor. A friend said if the valves were no good the light should stay on not go on and off. the dealer charged $45.00 to tell me what they thought was the problem. I do not have the money to experiment. As I have 96,000 mostly highway miles. no longer under warranty. the extended warrenty expired at 75,000 mi and they GMC said the do not extent past then. please help. Thanks Bren
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the check engine light comes on there will be a diagnostic trouble code stored in the powertrain control module. DTC's on 1996 and newer vehicles can only be retrieved with a scan tool. Call the dealer and find out what trouble codes were set or have an independant shop retrieve them, and re-post. Btw, carbon sticking the EGR valve open is a pretty common cause of CEL and rough idle/stall on your model.
  • All this business with the CHECK ENGINE light. It's something we just can't ignore. I had a 1969 Camaro 327. It ran well for 150K miles. I paid $1900 for it it 1973. I sold it for $1800 in 1993. I kept her tuned up by myself and I'm no mechanic! I put on a new Holly carb at 96K miles ($225), added a can of transmission fluid at 105K miles (the "Powerslide" was slipping a bit and one can solved the problem). The lights went out once and I replaced the voltage regulator for $4. I put on a new water pump at 80K miles ($47). I kept all my receipts and that was it other than normal fluid changes and brake jobs. What's with this modern technology? What good is it to own a car that always begs for repairs ("CHECK ENGINE!"), yet the service "techs" so seldom can properly diagnose and repair? I sympathize with you Bernald. My Saab(story) had a low coolant light illuminated about from the day I bought it. Finally the dealer "fixed" the problem after being in the shop over 10 times! He pulled the offending bulb! Voila... no more problem... If you ever get your car "repaired" be sure to check that the light comes on when you first start her up! As for me... I think I'm going to get a pre-CHECK ENGINE light vehicle! Anyone know when they FIRST starting putting that helpful feature on our modern vehicles????
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