Check Engine light



  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    He gave you good advice.When you get the codes from the dealer that were set,let us know.we'll try and help you out with what can be the cause.Personally,I wouldn't let them do anything until you are satisfied with knowing what the problem is,and to do that,you need to know what the code means.Also,because a code definition says something(like O2 sensor) doesn't necessarily mean it is the sensor itself.It usually ahs to do with the circuit.
  • llee45llee45 Member Posts: 3
    As I mentioned I had my 96 altma at my NIssan Dealer, that was May 12th. At that time he charged me $59.00 and gave me a paper stating that is was a gasket leaking. Do they keep the computer codes on file, or will I have to pay another $59.00 to have them put it on the computer to find out the codes?
    Thanks for any advice.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    llee45. If the check engine light is still on the code is in your vehicles computer. The dealer connects a scanner to your vehicles computer and reads out the code which tells him where the problem is. The computer does NOT tell him a gasket is leaking or, for instance, a bearing has gone bad. The computer only monitors and reports back on engine MANAGEMENT systems. If for example, the O2 sensor has gone bad the computer will set a code for that device and bring the check engine light on. That's because the computer cannot manage the air/fuel mixture without the O2 sensor and fuel consumption and driveability will be adversely affected even though you can still drive the vehicle. If I were you I would take the vehicle to an independent mechanic and ask him for his opinion.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    on the invoice.They should have it on the repair order.If they don't,be concerned.
  • butch11butch11 Member Posts: 153
    This is second hand but I am told a local franchise do everything tire store has a scam that goes like this. You take your car in for tires-they are installing the tires and then come out and tell you-hey the check engine light came on-we need to do a diagnosis. $ 85 later they tell you the plugs needed replacing. $ 60 for the diagnosis and $25 for labor and plugs. They get the check engine light by pulling off one of the plug wires.

    Be careful out there.
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    The diagnostic code that you received on a piece of paper was from the "Consult" a scanner that hooks up to your Nissan product. If they didn't clear the code it should still be store in your computer.. Did they say what type of oil leak it was and why it would be causing your check engine light to come on???? You stated that the oil dip-stick was at the proper level so it's not an internal leak....If you can I would like more info..

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • llee45llee45 Member Posts: 3
    I went to my Nissan Dealer (re: 96 nissan altma)
    they gave me a copy of the computer printout. It says
    PO304, failed part Cyl 4 misfire, Fuel sys MODE4,Cal/LD Value 20%, Coolant temp 183Fm S-Fuel Trim 125%, L-Fuel Trim 109%, Engine Speed 787rpm, Vehicle Speed OMPH
    Self-Diag Results: Failure Detected Time, *No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated. Further testing may be required.
    I hope this is the information you were referring to. As always any advice is appreciated.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    An oil leak is NOT cuasing the check engine light to come on,not with that code.Here is some diagnostic info on the code,P0304 Click on the link and it will take you to it.From reading the info you have given,my first guess(notice the word guess)would be the #4 plug wire or maybe a cracked dist cap.Hard to tell without checking some things.
  • hooferhoofer Member Posts: 43
    There might be two coolant temperature sensors on your Ford. I had an Aerostar with the 3.0L and there were two on it.

    best of luck
  • msfiggymsfiggy Member Posts: 2
    As an update to my inquiry, #218, found out the O2 sensor in the rear (there are 2, one for front and one for rear)went bad. The part cost $100 at dealership. Labor $69/hr. Had the one part replaced, although serviceman tried to convince me to replace both at the same time. All's well. FYI.
  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    0patience was right don't take your car back there. The code was set by the #4 cylinder misfire not an oil leak... Giving the code number also made it easier to access such helpful info for the next person that works on the vehicle.... It was a (good idea) to ask for the print-out.

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • tonnitonni Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 chev.Monte Carlo Z34.When I was first test driving the car at a dealership everything was fine to the "check engine light" came on.I told that salesman that I wanted that fixed prior to buying the car.They "fixed" the problem for a little while as the light stayed off for about 2-3 weeks then came back on.Still under warranty (3mo,3,000mi), the light came back on so I took the car back and was given a loaner til it was repaired.I get the car back & it's fine til we're on vacation at my mother's & there's 300 mi left on the warranty & the light goes on again.At this point I'm getting a bit annoyed.I went back to the dealership & told them that the light came on again but mysteriously went off.The darned thing stayed off for nearly 2 mo then lately came back on again.This time the car totally died.The alternator went bad four hours from my home.I ended up having the car dragged into a local chevy dealership.They put in a new alternator & the service engine light was off again until halfway into the trip home. Help! I'm frustrated and would like any advice that anyone may have.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    One that showed what codes the pulled from the computer??Need to know what those numbers are.The other option is to pay to have it scanned and see what codes come up.If you took it in and they "fixed" it,they should have marked down what codes set.More than likely,they just cleared the codes.
  • pzedpzed Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Taurus with 52k miles and the 3.0 OHV engine. The service engine soon light came on the other day when my wife was coming home from work. When I drove it, it seemed fine other than I noticed it was not shifting into overdrive. Any ideas what would be causing this problem?
  • dducketdducket Member Posts: 2
    I have '96 Ranger with about 80,000 miles. Light just came on and I'm getting ready to sell. Anyone know how to get the code (I think probably it's the O2 sensor) without going to the dealer? On an older GM car I think you could short two terminals in the comp. harness and the light would flash the codes. Not sure though. Thanks in advance.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Your vehicle is equipped with OBD2 computer system and is only accessible from a scanner.There are scanners available from AutoXray,KAL and Actron for around $300.Or you can go to an independant shop and they can access the computer and retrieve the codes,usually for around $40.Ask them to only retrieve the codes and tell you what they are,then you can let us know what they are and we can help you decipher them.Here is a page that has a basic OBD2 code definitions.OBD2 Generic Code Info
  • ashwinmkashwinmk Member Posts: 3

    I have 97 Path Finder. About a year ago I got the check engine light on. I have since taken it to 2 dealers and about 10 times so far.
    They tell me that codes indicate that there is some problem near the GAS tank/nozzle. They have tried tightening it and checking it out but they cannot find anything. They reset the codes and a week later after driving it is back. They have advised me to tighten the gas cap after filling gas but it had not helped.

    The story keeps going on....
    Help anybody. Please.


  • md_techmd_tech Member Posts: 84
    The code that they are probably retrieving from your 97 is a small Evaporation Leak. This code usually happens when people don't properly tighten their gas cap like you stated they told you. Have they checked your purge control system??? when does the light come on and what type of gas cap do you have on your vehicle?? After-market gas caps can also cause this problem or caps with a lock on them...

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    I scanned the upteen dozen postings and didn't find my "Happy Face" check engine light problem.
    Re: 92 Mazda MPV Van, V6.
    Engine light came on @ 80K miles. Looked in the owner's manual and it's triggered at that milage to replace the O2 sensor. Ok, fine, replaced by me ($50). Went to local shop to reset computer (getting good now...) Shop says "Nope, we're not touching that". Huh? Mazda did a litle diddy with that and you CANNOT reset the light WITHOUT removing the total instrument panel and manually reinserting a metal screw into another socket and re-installing the instrument panel. The comuter has nothing to do with that. I checked with Mazda (yeah, sure, what does that mechanic know..)and Mazda says (Quote)"Our mechanics don't even like to do that and it will cost you $110 plus tax".
    Exsqueeze me?? Choke. I will spend $160 because of a Mazda misdesign? I wrote Mazda with my complaint and their response was "We did that so you will replace the sensor".
    To make a long story short, my wife has been driving with this little "Happy Face" orange light staring her in the face for 10K miles because I refuse to pay Mazda for a really goofy, and obvious $%^&$#.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    let me know and I can tell you a site to get the info.E-mail me by clicking on my user name.
  • npynpy Member Posts: 10
    I own a 1994 Lexus ES300 with mileage at 116K. I decided to have my belts, hoses, and fluids check through a AAA program. They told me that everything looked fine and that the only thing they found was a weak battery. About a week later my check engine light goes on while driving. Since I needed my oil changed I did that and asked the manager what might cause this. He said it could be a dozen things but that I could disconnect the battery to reset the ECM and see if it comes on again. I did this and two days later the check engine light did come on again. I have an appointment at the dealership next week but I was wondering if there are any suggestions of what else I could try before the appointment. Thanks.
  • thaddthadd Member Posts: 1
    I see quite a few Nissans talked about in here with this problem. When I took my truck to get at oil change at 43,000 some odd miles it was fine, but almost the instant the car mileage rolled over to 45,000 the check engine light came on. I have talked with a few Nissan driving c0-workers and they have had the same problem. Is this a scam by Nissan? It sure seems like a coincidence that it always comes on after the warranty is up. I have done everything to the car my dealer has suggested. (jeff wyler, Eastgate.. Cincinnati OH))
    and the blasted light is still on. I have already paid over $200.00 for this problem. Anyone have any ideas on what I can do myself to fix this? I even tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. It went off for about a day and came back on.

    Thanks in advance
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    I am looking for the info on retrieving the trouble codes yourself and myself and a few other mechanics are in the process of setting up webpages for retrieving codes and their definitions,unfortunatley Lexus is down the list a bit.Ask at this site and they will try and get the retrieval process for you,be specific as to what you need and why.

    Your vehicle is the OBD2 system and codes are only retrievable from a scanner,but since you have had it in for the light,they should be able to tell you specifically what codes they retrieved.Once you get the codes that came up,come back and post them and we will try and help you to figure out what is going on.
  • nadavinadavi Member Posts: 14
    what does code 63 (63 EGR flow check (3.8L)) mean in Oldsmobile ninety eight 1988, 3.8 engine? the car does not have the EGR old diaphram but the newer black box. another information that might be relevant is that I just past the emission test successfully.

    is it something that must be fixed or that i can ignore (is it possible that the problem is with the sensor and not with the EGR flow)?
  • bhaskarkbhaskark Member Posts: 1
    I bought a Mitsubishi (Galant, 1991, 73 k) two months back. It has been giving a check engine indication at times (typically when I travel for more than 30 min). There are sudden surges in RPM and the car wobbles.

    I had shown it to a transmission specialist who said that there is no problem that he could fix.

    Then I went to an auto service expert (?) who ran diagnostics and said he fixed the problem. The problem resurfaced and he then returned the money saying he cannot fix it.

    Then, I went to another service guy - he ran diagnostics, said that there is blue smoke, a couple of fixes are needed from diagnostics and that the engine looks quite older than the mileage and that a wire is grounded. He says that the engined needs to be replaced and suggested that I sell the car off.

    I need your suggestion reg what could probably be the problem(s) and what I should do - whether go for another opinion or try to sell or ..

    Thanks in advance.
  • ortballortball Member Posts: 1
    Since purchasing this car in October, the check engine light has come on 4 times now. First time scared the *%#@ out of me. Took it to VW (per manual instructions) and they charged me $80.00 to reset it and inform me that it was the knock sensor. "Must run only premium fuel" and keep revs at 3,000 minimum. The person I bought the car from had originally replaced the sensors under warranty but said he hadn't experienced any problems and "only ran mid range fuel" not premium. The ocatane rating for mid does meet VW's recommendation, but again the manual says premium. The 2nd-4th time I took the car to my old mechanic who ran diagnostics which again showed same fault but he also said that mid grade should be fine. Fortunatly, he's not charging me to diagnose and reset, but this is getting old... Question; must I run premium (I drop a tank full every 4-5 fillups) all the time? Could it be faulty sensors? Is it possible to manually (ala the neg. battery method I've read about)reset it? Also, has anyone experienced subtle power surge or roll off when holding revs flat around 2500 - 3000 range? It almost feels like I had a twitch in my accelerator foot.
    Would appreciate any information.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    Understand that the codes are often misleading. If you were able to look a the true definition of most codes,they often say a certain sensor circuit and not the sensor itself. The only way to find out the problem, is to take th etrouble code,obtain a diagnostic tree or flowchart for that code and do the testing.Any mechanic who just replaces sensors, is just a parts replacer. Let us know what the code numbers that came up or you can ask 2 of the best import guys on the internet,wire and pungo(yes,those are their handles and I have no idea what it means).
    Click on my username and it should show you the website address you can go to, to find them.
  • bmcnealbmcneal Member Posts: 4
    iv'e had my jetta for 1 wk. we were told the check engine light may come on but not to worry unless it blinked. it came on 3day after purchase. they said it could be hundreds of things. now when you start the car it acts like it may die then rev's back up again. we got a pelim. carfax report saying "lemon". we haven't taken it to the dealer yet (no time). has anyone else experienced this or anything similar? would love any info.
  • altairsf1altairsf1 Member Posts: 4
    The check engine light on my Rodeo came on. I took it to the dealer who said it was the O2 sensor, which he replaced. He also said there was some other problem, he suspected I might need to replace the onboard computer. Three days later my rodeo is dead on the side of the highway, with a bad alternator. The dealer claims the two are unrelated and won't pay for the tow or eat any of the repair bill. The funny thing is I just replaced the alternator 1.5 yrs ago at that dealership(the check engine light was also on at that time). Despite ackowledging that low voltage could cause the light to come on the dealer maintains the light and my alternator problems are unrelated. Whasssup?
  • jc88jc88 Member Posts: 6
    I suspect that they are not related. The check engine light deals mainly with the emissions system. That said, check with the dealer about the alternator, it may be warrantied. A lot of dealerships warranty these type of items if they installed them.
  • mnnmnn Member Posts: 31
    I have a 00 Golf 1.8T, and the engine light came on when it was 3 weeks old. I took it back to the dealer and was told it was an emission problem. The first day they said there was a hole in the pipe; second day I was told it was a hole in the some kind of seal/valve. On the third day they actually took the part that they suspect was leaking from another car and put in on mine, and that was the end of story.

    I suggest you keep bugging the dealer until they fix it. It will take them a few days (was told that they have to hook on to 2 different computers to confirm the code?), but it is better than driving with the check light on.
  • ragreeneragreene Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Mercury Villager. It was running fine until I made the mistake and topped it off with gas. Now it sputters when I start it up for the first time. Once I drive it for 2 or 3 minutes , it's fine until I let it set for some hours. The check engine light has come on. The dealer said that I shouldn't had topped it off. I bought the van used and didn't realize at the time I wasn't suppose to do that. Is there some way to reset whatever I unset to get it working properly without having to take it to a mechanic who will probably charge me an arm and leg. If there's nothing I can do, please educate me so when I do talk with the mechanic, he/she won't be able to double talk me.

    If you like, you can email me at [email protected]


  • ronr107ronr107 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 with 15,000 miles.
    It just passed New jersey's inspection at an inspection station. 3 miles from the inspection station, the "service engine soon" light came on.
    Is this a coinsidence, or was something triggered when the gas cap was tested for pressure.
    can anyone offer some advise ?

  • meb235meb235 Member Posts: 3
    The odometer on my '87 Buick stopped operating after resetting the trip odometer. Shortly after that, the "check engine" light came on. Took the car in for service and the serviceman advised me that the odometer caused the light to come on. How is this problem repaired? Is this a lubrication issue? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    GM code retrival click on it and it will show you how to retrieve the codes,then when you have the codes,you will be able to start to figure out why it is on.The codes are only a starting point and then you have to go from there. I seriously doubt the odometer caused the light to go on. Possibly a speed sensor,but it would affect the speedometer too. Let us know what codes you get.
  • bilsarabilsara Member Posts: 1
    This is a response to #235
    With my experience with the check engine light on my Mirage, it's all the electronics or your emissions. Check the following parts which can cause the "check engine" light to energize:

    1. Your 02 sensor-- have you replaced?
    2. Your exhaust manifold -- any cracks or leaks? Have you given your engine a bath in cold weather while it's hot?
    3. Your air filter sensor--is it accidentally disconnected?
    4. Your engine coil -- need a new one?
    5. Your power transistor--need a new one?
    6. Your computer -- hear any cracking sounds? Will cost you a few hundred, but you'll be as good as new.

    I have an '89 Mirage with lots of mileage. I've replaced these parts between 1997 and the present ....and what I've noticed at around this time, the electronics start to act up...I've recently replaced my alternator for the first time since I bought it at 17, I think I will drive into 200, 000 miles with not I gotta fix the oil leak. This car is notorious for a faulty oil crankcase seal that seem to give way when the timing belt needs to be replaced. ..Time for a new car in couple of years, I hope.
  • meb235meb235 Member Posts: 3
    Response to advice in 246:
    You were correct. The speedometer has also stopped working and the code revealed this. Installed a new cable today. Thanks!
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    #243 - ragreene, I bet what's happened is when you topped your tank off you got fuel into your EVAP charcoal cannister. I'm sure when the codes are retrieved it will point in that direction. The codes on OBD-11 can only be retrieved with a scanner. I think you might have to have the EVAP cannister replaced. Beware of topping off!
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Dear Edmunds: I just bought a 99 Isuzu Trooper...great truck and a delight to drive. I think. I actually haven't driven it enough to know! I have owned it since the 8th of Aug., and driven it exactly 3 days. The "check engine light" keeps coming on....then the truck shuts down, right in traffic....and I get towed back to the dealer. (The truck had 13,000 miles on it when I bought it, and a good maintenance record.) This has happened twice, and though they seem to be trying to fix it, nothing they do works. They diagnosed it on the computer and said a certain valve (gas re-circulation) had to be replaced. They did that, but It didn't work. I go about 100 miles and it happens again. The scary part is, When it shuts down on the freeway, I lose my power steering and brakes! Now, supposedly, it is "ready" again. I am afraid to pick the truck up..afraid for my safety. They say they drive it and nothing happens....but they don't drive it far enough, I think. It does seem to occur when I put gas in it....but I do not "top off." They said that has nothing to do with it, anyway. I am terribly afraid to drive it, and am afraid I bought a "lemon.' Please help me! The 1st payment is due, and I've been renting cars on a weekly basis! Thanks so much."Stuck-in-the-Mountains."
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Dear members: When i first posted, I hadn't read everyone else's posts. Now I know that you help one another! What a great aid to car-dummies like me. I thank all of you who read my post...and I hope one of you out there knows what I should tell the dealer. I would like to sound just a LITTLE knowledgable! They do seem to be trying, and I bought an extended warranty, so the towing and rental cars are "on them." (The aggravation and basic fear I am going to be KILLED in it.....are on ME. ) I would think they would definitely get me on the road..soon! But I suspect the young man who keeps testing and releasing my truck just cannot find the problem. Again, I SHUT completely DOWN while driving!! It is definitely a scary feeling. After reading other posts, i thought I should add that I was told to tighten the gas cap, and always do. far as it goes. I use 89 octane '76 gasoline, never any cheap stuff. Besides, I don't think that could "shut me down." Do any of you know what I should tell that mechanic? When it did it the other day, I shut down on a busy L.A. freeway at rush hour. I was fortunately near an exit, so rolled up on to that. It did start right up again...but only ran for about 15 ft. I had to start/stop my way into a parking lot, running into some bushes in order to finally stop! Other stuff: I live at 6500 Ft., in some Calif. mountains. It originally started dying on me up here. (Try having your power steering go out on an S-curve!) Could it be an air circulation problem? But it also did it on the freeway. I am at my wit's end, and fear I am going to be stuck with a bad truck that I can't trust. I gratefully await your collective advice! Thanks so much. "Stuck-in-the-mountains."
  • lucky20lucky20 Member Posts: 35
    Replace the fuel filter (if you have not). This can cause the symptoms you mention. Even if this is not the problem, it is reasonably inexpensive & I always try the cheap & easy first.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Dear Friend-in-need,
    Thanks so much for the post! I'm new to all this computer stuff, and it's really having a friend when you need one! I am supposed to pick it up Tuesday, but will definitely not take it till the mechanic checks this. The code came up for the EGR valve, he he replaced it. But obviously that's not it. I do love the truck and want to fix it...I hope it can be done. This is a good start. Thanks so very much for the help!
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    To be fair to the mechanic, the symptoms you describe does sound like a bad EGR valve. Maybe there is something that is causing it to go bad. I used to have an 88 Celebrity that frequenly stalled while driving. Ssince it had high miles, I would switch to neutral and restart while coasting... Took a long time to fix. One thing that seemed to help, though not solve (this would be prior to fixing the EGR valve), is to use a higher octane (93) fuel. I have a hard time comprehending why that helped, but the car would stall less. Good luck. Don't let the dealer off the hook on this.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    I'll try higher octane gas, too. I'll try anything!! I hope to have a list of things on Tuesday, and believe me, I will drive them crazy until it's running properly. It will snow here in another month, and I won't even be able to be towed off the mountain...nobody will come up to get me! SO?? I MUST correct this! Thanks!!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    doesn't necessarily mean the EGR itself is bad,it may also be the EGR solenoid or circuit.A vacuum leak to the EGR or several other causes.
    What was the exact trouble code(s) it gave?Need to know what they are,it will be something like PO133 or somehing like that.Then we can go from there. If you need more help right away,click on my name and it will show you my e-mail. If I can't get you the info to get it squared away, I know someone who can.Let us know.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    I was hoping you would see my post! Thanks for the wonderful info. Unfortunately, the codes were not on my receipt. I will have to wait until the holiday is over to find out, as shop is closed. BUT...I am writing all this down, and I'm going to fax it over to the shop Supr. for the mechanic. At least, they will have this collection of information to help them find the problem. So far, my invoice said "Replace EGR valve, clear codes and road test." (Also, a gasket.) Your help is so much appreciated.....all of you!! It's all Greek to me. Peace!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    P1406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Performance
    This one may be the EGR,but can also be the solonoid or cirucit.

    All of these codes are circuit codes and may or may not be the vlave itself,some of them are highly unlikey that it is the valve itself.
    P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
    P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
    P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
    P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
    P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
    P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
    P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High
    P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit Low
    P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High
    Bottom line,I highly doubt that the mechanic who is doing the work knows what he is doing,either that or they are milking it for all it is worth. I hope this helps you, all of this is speculation on what you have given and without the codes to go by,it is all guess work.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Lucky, lucky me that I found this page and all of you wonderful people. And "Opatience," you are such a giving person that you restore my faith in go to all that trouble of listing probable codes. Thank you, thank you. I was so depressed all week over this truck...I have always bought my own cars and never been this unlucky. I owe a fortune for it , and I can't keep dying in traffic....much less, do without my wheels. I had diligently searched for this truck, too. I really wanted this year of Trooper. Now, I haven't been sleeping over it...what to do??? Make them take it back?? Now I have hope. If the dealer can't fix it, I'll have to find a reliable mechanic somewhere who can. This will be his 3rd chance, my second tow. But now I am armed with information, and that makes me feel so much better, I can't tell you. I have compiled all of this and faxed it to the Finance Manager to give to the shop supervisor. (The Finance Manager is the one I'll be dealing with if I ask for a dealer buy-back. HA! ) Now they'll know that I mean business, and expect it to be fixed properly. That's even better than having two Hell's Angels with you! TEE HEE! If this mechanic CAN'T do it, any suggestions on how I find a GOOD mechanic near me? (SOMEWHAT near me.) Closest towns would be Bakersfield to the north, Valencia to the south. (Calif.) You guys RULE!! BIG HUGS!! (Oh, and I WILL get the codes from them on Tuesday.)
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastMember Posts: 1,712
    If you need to go to an independant(isn't it still under warranty?) then you need to look for a reputable import mechanic,ask friends,family and co workers. Also,go to a auto parts store and ask them if they know of a reliable import mechanic who can handle your Isuzu.Once you have all that info,then you can sit down and evaluate your data,you'll probably find a shop who's name keeps coming up.

    I went back and re-read your posts,I can tell you,without a doubt, the EGR system is NOT causing the vehicle to shut down. I apologize,I should have caught that sooner. The EGR system will cause poor driveability but will not cause it to just shutdown. You brought your shop to parts replacers and if they knew how to do some diagnostics,they would never have replaced the EGR valve and expected it to fix it.
    We can help you thru this,but I need to know th codes and then all pertenant info on when it shuts down.
    Is it always at cruising speeds?
    Is it when you are on a turn or anytime?
    Slowing down or speeding up?
    Does the electrical system act right when this happens?
    Anything else you can think of.

    Off the subject,what voices do you do?I read your profile and it says you do animated voices,my kids have probably seen every animation made.
    Have fun.
  • mevoicemevoice Member Posts: 10
    Hi, again! Yes, I do animation voices, and have worked on almost all Disney features since "Little Mermaid." Your kids will remember me from "Bug's Life" and, "Who ordered the poo-poo platter?" Lots more over the many years, but mostly, it's a lot of fun. If you want, I'll Email a list to you for the kids to listen for! Anyway, You asked me about details..when the truck shuts down on me. I have noticed that it can happen at any time, cruising or just starting out from the driveway. It seems to be most predominant when I first fill the tank. I almost always use '76 Unocal gas, 89 octane. If it's another brand, it isn't the cheap stuff like Arco and it's always 89. I have also noticed carbon in the tailpipe. I was concerned about that when I bought it, (rings and valves?) but it wasn't that bad and the truck ran out fine. I loved it, so I bought it. It was also almost on empty! I blissfully brought it home, no trouble. I stopped for gas on the way up the mountain. The 1st time it did it, was the next day...driving around the mountain village. I had been fooling with the alarm and had set it off, so I thought it had a "kill switch" somewhere, and that I had somehow triggered it. That's how it acted. It would start up, then just stop about 10 yds. down the road. It sat for the weekend, and Monday, I tried to get down the hill. It died again, I ran into some bushes, walked home and called the tow truck. The dealer replaced that EGR valve. When I picked it up from the dealer, I stopped to get it washed and gassed. As I pulled onto the freeway, the light came on. I went directly back to the (pissed off) dealer. The mechanic fooled with it for a minute (cleared the code?) and sent me on my way again. He said not to worry about it, and told me to turn it on and off four times should the light come on again. (Tough to do in traffic, and that little ploy doesn't work anyway.) Anyway, It ran fine all the way home, about 75 miles. Also took it to Burbank the next day, no problem.....about 100 miles. On the way home, I stopped for gas....and got on the freeway. Within 5 minutes, the light came on....I had to keep driving, no place to pull over. It stopped on me right by the Castaic exit. I called another tow truck, took it back to the dealer in Bakersfield. I told him about the "gas-thing" and he said that couldn't possibly have anything to do with it. I was taken to get another rental, and there was a message when I got home asking if it happened when "I gassed up." (Isn't that what I told him?) Anyway, That's where we are now. I have faxed your list and we shall see. I do feel so much better/ I have someone in my corner. At least, I am armed with information. Thanks, too about the mechanic-hunting..I read my warranty, (thank God I bought the extra one...) and it says that after 3 times of useless repair, I can take it to an accredited mechanic of my choice..and they will pay PART of it. Better than nothing. On Tuesday, I will get the code that it showed. I believe you're right..I think they are truly TRYING to fix it, but don't have a clue. I'm costing them a lot of money, so? Who knows. But thanks to you and the others, I think I stand a good chance of getting that done. I can't thank you enough....I'll SLEEP tonight!! XXXOOO, MM
    Thanks, very very much!
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