Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Check Engine light

1246734

Comments

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    You are right about the cost being a little steep for the Geo,beings the fact that the R&R for the O2 sensor is .6 hour.$200 is more the figure that should be seen if it is a direct R&R.So,even a high dollar figure of $160 for the sensor and .6 hour at $70/hr. comes out to $202.
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Opatience, ya well, sorry if I gave you a moment of false hope. Only kidding. I think what I'm trying to say is that there are alternative sources for most automotive parts. Things like O2 sensors, spark plugs, oil filters, etc..etc.. are not usually made by auto manufacturers and are outsourced.

    I think that it's good when discussions like this take place because it tends to demystify these new fangled computer controlled engines. Sadly, computers in cars have become a source of revenue for rip-off artists. Now don't get me wrong. I believe that there are thousands of good honest auto mechanics out there and god bless them all. I am more than willing to pay a good mechanic good money for a job well done.
  • jpsmrzjpsmrz Posts: 4
    The check engine light keeps coming on and going off without leaving a code in the computer. The mechanic has even tried to get a code when the light is on but there is not a code in the computer. The throttle positon sensor and the cam following sensor had been replaced but they had shown a code in the computer. The car is equipped with the OBCDII terminal and would require a scanner to read. The mechanic does not seem to have any new ideas on what could be wrong. Any help?
  • jpsmrzjpsmrz Posts: 4
    Received a call from the mechanic. Said that he was finally able to get a check code which showed some problem between the alignment with the cam position sensor and the crankshaft sensor. He thought that it also could be the PCM. He said that there might be an extended emissions warranty-the dealer said 7/70000 but would not tell me if anything else is covered. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • acarrollacarroll Posts: 2
    There is an ongoing issue here in California that I would like to get everyones thoughts on.

    It has to do with CA fuel additives and poor fuel quality. Honestly, GM and the Fuel companies are simply pointing fingers. But the bottom line is I have a huge problem and I was hoping to get some advise.

    Basically I have a 1999 Chevy C/K 1500 extended cab pickup truck with a huge flaw. My understanding is that it has to do with the fuel
    quality here in California.

    I do know that this problem has been going on for quite some time as I would reference a letter C99066 dated November, 1999 directed to the
    attention of all Chevy owners of 96/97/98 models S-10, Blazer, Astro, C/K Pickup, Tahoe, Suburban, Chevy Van/Express or ‘P’ truck that is registered in California equipped with a 4.3L, V6, 5.0L V8 or 5.7L V8 engine.

    The letter goes on to say that due to deposit build up on the sequential Central Port Fuel Injector SCPI poppet valves, they may cause the injectors to stick and/or remain closed. The letter goes on to say most fuels in California cause this condition. The letter indicates that GM is extending the window of the warranty to 10 years or 100,000 miles.

    To date my 1999 truck has 20,000 miles on it and it has been in the shop on several occasions due to the "service engine soon light" Additionally, checks/repairs to the injection system have also been necessary. On two of the occasions 3 of the 8 injectors have been replaced and now I am having more sticking problems. At this point I have requested all injectors be replaced.

    Seems logical to me. But GM won't budge. Dealer is saying it's a political issue and fuel companies say it's a injector flaw.

    I have opened a case file with GM to monitor the issue but I was wondering if anyone here could share any information or perhaps Opatience, maybe you could direct me to a helpful website? Hopefully there are other Chevy owners who may read this posting and share more information on the issue...

    Thanks all...

    Alan
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Important
    The ONLY solvent that will have any effect on the deposits occurring on poppet valves is: "PORT FUEL INJECTOR GASOLINE DETERGENT" (P/N 12345104) (IN CANADA USE P/N 12345515).
  • Hi all, this is my first time visiting and hope someone can be of help. i have a 2000 Subaru Outback. At 5000 miles, check engine light came on--car started running rough, and they ended up replacing the #1 Fuel injector...everything fine til 6,500 miles, light back on, I got it in (has been running fine) and they say it is a air fuel sensor failed. The part has been ordered overnight, and will arrive on Friday--However I have to drive 400 miles RT on Friday, so the service guy says it's fine to drive, just bring it in on Monday.

    I don't want to mess us my car by driving it too much with this failed part, and I WOULD HOPE the service people wouldn't want that either. Is it OK to drive over the road with this "failed" part. I already have about 500 miles since the light first came one (as i got the "perhaps the gas tank lid wasn't put back on right, if it's running ok,don't worry about it" line when I called in.)

    If someone can let me know ASAP i'd sure appreciate it! I'll check back later. Thanks. Julie
  • cpikecpike Posts: 3
    My check engine went on at 13500 miles. By the time I went to the dealer the light was off. Dealer said they found nothing wrong. At 15000 the light was on again, but this time it stayed on . I went to the dealer and voluntarily paid $300 for the 15000 mile check up. The intake manifold was leaking no charge. I sent my wife to pick up the car my mistake I had to work. The check engine was still on. I called the dealer they said that they forgot to reset the computer. I wonder if this is true? Before the vehicle was running rough with idle surges now the vehicle is fine. I would think that the computer would reset itself?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    First,on the OBD2 system,if the check engine light comes on,it will store a code for a set number of restarts(inother words,the code is stored until the vehicle is restarted a set number of times).Second,If the check engine light remains on,it means that there is still something triggering a code.If the problem was fixed and the codes weren't cleared,then the check engine light would reset and turn itself off.If you had an intake leak and it was surging,I wouldn't be surprised to see the O2 sensor caked and not reading properly(may be why the light is on).If you step on it,do you smell sulfur?If you do,I may be right.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    I think they must be refering to the Oxygen sensor,if they are,you can drive it.BUT,your fuel economy will suffer and there is a real good possibility that your engine is running rich and may eventually clog the catalytic conveter if run too long.Some things to think about.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    I'm beginning to feel like a hog.Sorry.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Don't shut up 0patience! You are so very helpful! Also, the TSB's you've been posting are great.

    :-)

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • cpikecpike Posts: 3
    About going to another dealer. I would think they would give me the cold shoulder since I did not get the car from them. I guess one bit of luck is that I lease this car. Thank you again for your response. I'll try calling Isuzu or another dealer and hope they don't laugh.
  • torektorek Posts: 92
    she_z: It sounds like your engine computer is "seeing things", as it were -- it got a facefull of nasty stuff and its eyes and ears no longer work right. The problem is most likely not the things the codes suggest, but rather the computer itself and/or its connections to the things it is trying to observe.

    You need to take the car to a place that will figure out what is actually wrong, rather than simply taking the most recent code and replacing whatever that suggests.

    Chris
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Something rings a bell here. I've just received an extented warranty from GM for the spark plug wires on my 99 Cavalier. Seems like the plug wires are breaking down on certain cars and causing a fault code to be set and the check engine light comes on. GM will replace the spark plug wires at no charge. Now, this sets me thinking. With modern high voltage spark systems isn't it possible that many cars with OBD2 computers, ( which detects miss-fire and sets a code) are suffering from the same problem that GM describes? Add to the equation water and antifreeze all over the spark plugs and wires and you have a recipe for problems. If the plug wires dry out - problem gone! Just a thought.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) MAY BE ON
    #63-65-02

    SUBJECT: MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) MAY BE ON, DTC 29 OR 410 SET, AIR FUSE BLOWS (INCREASE WIRE AND FUSE SIZE)

    MODELS: 1993-96 CHEVROLET CAMARO 1993-96 PONTIAC FIREBIRD WITH 5.7L ENGINE ONLY (VIN P - RPO LT1)

    CONDITION:

    SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT THAT THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) MAY BE ON. DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 29 (ON 1993-95 MODELS) OR 410 (ON 1996 MODELS) IS SET. THE AIR FUSE (#7) IN THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER WILL BE BLOWN.

    CAUSE:

    THE AIR PUMP FUSE AND WIRING ARE NOT ADEQUATE TO PREVENT THE FUSE FROM BLOWING UNDER SOME CONDITIONS. THE AIR PUMP OPERATES ONLY ON A COLD START UP, BEFORE THE ENGINE GOES INTO CLOSED-LOOP OPERATION.

    CORRECTION:

    A 25 AMP FUSE, AND WIRING INCREASED FROM .8MM (18 GAUGE) TO 1.0MM (16 GAUGE), WENT INTO PRODUCTION APPROXIMATELY 11-29-95.

    NORMALLY, THE AIR PUMP WILL NOT BE DAMAGED AND WILL NOT HAVE TO BE REPLACED. TO VERIFY THAT THE AIR PUMP IS STILL OPERATIONAL, REPLACE THE FUSE, THEN USE THE TECH 1 TO OPERATE THE PUMP FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS IN DTC 29 CHART IN THE SERVICE MANUAL. THE PUMP SHOULD RUN AND DELIVER AIR TO THE ENGINE PORTS. LISTEN FOR ANY UNUSUAL NOISES THAT COULD INDICATE BEARING PROBLEMS. IF ANY INDICATION OF WATER IS FOUND, REPLACE THE PUMP. THE STEADY STATE CURRENT DRAW OF THE PUMP SHOULD BE NO MORE THAN 15 AMPS. IF THE PUMP OPERATES NORMALLY, IT WILL NOT HAVE TO BE REPLACED.

    1993-95 VEHICLES ================

    USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO CHANGE THE AIR PUMP FUSE TO 25 AMPS, INCREASE THE WIRE SIZE FROM THE AIR PUMP RELAY TO THE AIR PUMP, AND UPDATE THE LABEL ON THE COVER OF THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER. THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THIS CIRCUIT IS ON PAGE 8A-21-3 OF THE 1995 SERVICE MANUAL.

    1. DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.

    2. REMOVE THE AIR CLEANER/MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) SENSOR ASSEMBLY.

    3. A. REMOVE THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE WIRING ON THE BOTTOM.

    B. REMOVE THE AIR PUMP RELAY.

    C. REMOVE TERMINAL E4 (TWO RED WIRES ATTACHED). CUT THE OLD TERMINAL OFF.

    D. CRIMP A 36 INCH (900MM) LENGTH OF NEW 1.0MM (16 GAUGE) RED WIRE, AND THE EXISTING 1.0MM RED WIRE, TO NEW TERMINAL, P/N 12015870. SOLDER THE CONNECTION.

    IMPORTANT: SOME VEHICLES MAY HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH BOTH RED WIRES OF THE SAME GAGE. IN THIS CASE, USE AN OHMMETER TO DETERMINE WHICH WIRE TO RECONNECT. CONNECT ONE LEAD OF THE OHMMETER TO TERMINAL "A" AT THE AIR PUMP CONNECTOR. TOUCH THE OTHER LEAD TO EACH OF THE TWO RED WIRES. THE ONE THAT HAS VERY LOW RESISTANCE (CLOSE TO "0") IS THE WIRE THAT WILL NOT BE USED. THIS IS THE WIRE THAT GOES TO TERMINAL "A". CUT IT OFF AND TAPE IT.

    E. INSERT THE TERMINAL INTO THE ELECTRICAL CENTER. REINSTALL THE AIR PUMP RELAY.

    F. ROUTE THE NEW WIRE TO THE AIR PUMP USING THE OLD WIRE AS A GUIDE. SECURE THE WIRE AS NEEDED TO PREVENT CUTTING OR RUBBING.

    4. A. REMOVE THE CONNECTOR FROM THE AIR PUMP.

    B. REMOVE TERMINAL "A" FROM THE CONNECTOR; CUT OFF AND DISCARD THE OLD TERMINAL. CAREFULLY REMOVE THE OLD SEAL FROM THE TERMINAL AND REUSE IT.

    C. CUT OFF ANY EXCESS LENGTH OF NEW WIRE. CRIMP AND SOLDER A NEW TERMINAL, P/N 12048074, TO THE NEW 1.0MM WIRE. REUSE THE SEAL FROM ABOVE.

    D. INSTALL THE TERMINAL INTO THE CONNECTOR, THEN REATTACH THE CONNECTOR TO THE AIR PUMP.

    5. A. REINSTALL THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER, THEN CONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. REINSTALL THE AIR CLEANER/ MAF SENSOR ASSEMBLY.

    B. INSTALL A 25 AMP FUSE IN THE AIR PUMP (#7) LOCATION.

    C. CLEAN THE PRESENT LABEL ON THE INSIDE COVER OF THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER, THEN CUT OUT JUST THE "25 AMP" PART OF LABEL, P/N 12191559, AND APPLY IT OVER THE EXISTING LABEL.

    D. VERIFY THAT THE AIR PUMP OPERATES.

    1996 MODELS ===========

    USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE TO CHANGE THE AIR PUMP FUSE TO 25 AMPS, INCREASE THE WIRE SIZE FROM THE A/P-FAN FUSE TO THE AIR PUMP RELAY, AND ADD A NEW LABEL TO THE COVER OF THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER. THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR THIS CIRCUIT IS ON PAGE 6E-664 OF THE 1996 SERVICE MANUAL.

    IMPORTANT: THE WIRING DIAGRAM SHOWS THE WIRE FROM S189 TO TERMINAL "A" ON THE AIR PUMP AS .8MM. HOWEVER, IT IS ACTUALLY 1.0MM AND WILL NOT HAVE TO BE REPLACED.

    1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.

    2. A. REMOVE THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE WIRING ON THE BOTTOM.

    B. REMOVE THE AIR PUMP RELAY AND THE A/P-FAN FUSE (#7).

    C. REMOVE TERMINAL E1 (.8MM ORANGE) FROM THE RELAY LOCATION. CUT THE OLD TERMINAL OFF, AND TAPE THE WIRE. THIS WIRE WILL NOT BE USED.

    D. REMOVE TERMINAL L7 (.8MM ORANGE) FROM THE FUSE LOCATION. CUT OFF AND DISCARD THE TERMINAL. CRIMP AND SOLDER A NEW TERMINAL, P/N 12020321, TO A 9 INCH (225MM) LENGTH OF NEW 1.0MM ORANGE WIRE AND THE EXISTING ORANGE WIRE FROM L7.

    E. INSTALL THE NEW TERMINAL INTO CAVITY L7.

    F. CRIMP AND SOLDER A NEW TERMINAL, P/N 12015869, TO THE OTHER END OF THE NEW WIRE.

    G. INSTALL THIS NEW TERMINAL INTO CAVITY E1.

    3. A. REINSTALL THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER.

    B. INSTALL A 25 AMP FUSE IN THE AIR PUMP (#7) LOCATION. REINSTALL THE AIR PUMP RELAY.

    C. CLEAN THE PRESENT LABEL ON THE INSIDE COVER OF THE UNDERHOOD ELECTRICAL CENTER, THEN APPLY A NEW LABEL, P/N 12191559.

    D. RECONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. VERIFY THAT THE AIR PUMP OPERATES.

    PARTS INFORMATION:

    PARTS ARE EXPECTED TO BE AVAILABLE ON MARCH 4, 1996.

    WARRANTY INFORMATION:

    FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:

    LABOR OPERATION NUMBER: N6276 USE PUBLISHED LABOR OPERATION TIME.

    FIGURES: 00 ATTACHMENTS: 00
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    I would think these comnputers would accurately diagnose problems. I think all they do is complicate things. Am I wrong? Why can't problems be accurately pinpointed ? Maybe they are the same as this box I'm using now.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    short and to the point, please!
  • rykeronerykerone Posts: 7
    My Check Engine Light just came on, so the natrual thing is to take it to the dealer to get checked out. Well, they could not get to it (did not buy the ODY there), so waited two hours for them to check it out. I times them take the car in, and they only had it for 15 min in the shop. They tried to charge me, but I told them that it was under warranty. Found out that thye will charge $80 to reset the light.


    I also noticed my friends light came on around 10000 miles. I am wondering, if this is a plan by Honda to make us bring our cars to them to be checked out. More money for them. I believe so, since it only took them 15 min to reset the light...

    Does anyone know how to reset the light......
  • rykeronerykerone Posts: 7
    My Check Engine Light just came on, so the natrual thing is to take it to the dealer to get checked out. Well, they could not get to it (did not buy the ODY there), so waited two hours for them to check it out. I times them take the car in, and they only had it for 15 min in the shop. They tried to charge me, but I told them that it was under warranty. Found out that thye will charge $80 to reset the light.


    I also noticed my friends light came on around 10000 miles. I am wondering, if this is a plan by Honda to make us bring our cars to them to be checked out. More money for them. I believe so, since it only took them 15 min to reset the light...

    Does anyone know how to reset the light 2000 Odyssey
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    fritz1224, I reckon that computers are good in cars. However, when you have a situation where spark plug wires are sparking all over the place, the computer might pick up all sorts of impulses and set a false code. So to anyone having this problem, I would suggest that they check the spark plug wires first. Thanks for the info from GM Opatience. As the wires are probably not made by GM and are outsourced, it's possible that many other makes of cars are having the same problems. By the way, Opatience, I can get a Bosch front O2 sensor for $35 and the back one costs %75. That's for my 99 Cavalier. Not too bad a price. Finally, I would suggest once more that people get a $200 OB2 scanner from the source that I suggested earlier on here. It will also erase codes after the problem has been fixed.
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Sorry, that's $ 35 for the front O2 sensor and $75 for the back one.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    fritz12224,that was a GM bulletin.Sorry it was long,but if I was to leave anything out,it would have been useless.If you don't want the info,just say so,I'll quit posting it.
  • nadavinadavi Posts: 14
    I followed your instruction in me 1088 Oldsmobile 98 with the "service engine soon" yellow light on. I jumpered the A&B terminal and counted the following: flash, pause, flash, flash (it repeat 3 times) and then "flash, flash, flash, flash, flash, flash, pause, flash, flash, flash" (it repeat 3 time) and then again "flash, pause, flash, flash"...
    can you estimate the problem according to it. I did not now how to figure what code number is it?

    thanks

    Nadav
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Flash,pause,flash,flash,that is code 12,it is the start of the diagnostic mode,then the other one is code 63,the next is the return of code 12,the is the end of the diagnostic mode.Now,the code 63 is what is setting the check engine light,which could mean a couple of things,depending on the engine you have.
    63 MAP sensor voltage high
    63 EGR flow check (3.8L)
    63 Right side oxygen sensor circuit open (5.7L)
    No matter which engine you have,check all of the vaccum hoses to be sure that they are in good shape and hooked up.But,are you sure that is the sequence? When the light starts to flash,the first set is tens,then the pause,then the next set is ones.Flash,flash,pause,flash,flash,flash=code 23,follow?Recheck the numbers.
  • graybograybo Posts: 8
    I have a 97 Chevy Tahoe with 68000 miles. Back in March, the check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer and a diagnosis found a bad O2 sensor on bank 1, sensor 2. The check engine light came on again this month and it diagnosed a bad O2 sensor bank 2, sensor 2. Had it replaced. Two days later, my check engine light comes on again. Does changing one sensor cause the others to go bad? Should the O2 sensors fail at this mileage? I'm going to take it back to the dealer. If it's another O2 sensor, should I go ahead and replace the last two? Also, I was told the converter may be going bad. I think that's still under warranty. Any comments will be appreciated.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    If the rear sensors have gone bad,did they say if they were "caked" or if they had actually quit working.If they were "caked",then the front sensors may be causing a rich condition.Did the dealer say if they tested the O2 sensor circuit?Just because the trouble code says an O2 sensor,doesn't mean replacing the sensor is going to solve the problem.They need to do the diagnostics and check and see whay the sensor is bad.And the fact that the light is still coming on,tells me they didn't do the diagnostics.More than likely,by now,you do have a problem with the catalytic converter,but the O2 sensor circuit problem needs to be taken care of or it will plug the new cat eventually.If you can get the exact trouble codes they came up with,we may be able to give you a better idea.
  • nadavinadavi Posts: 14
    what does code 63 mean with 3.8L oldsmobile?
  • graybograybo Posts: 8
    Thanks for the information. I will get the codes Wednesday. I will inform them of what you suggested about the circuit problem. Also, should'nt the computer tell me my converter is going bad? Or, if one of the rear O2 sensors goes bad, is that the "indicator." Anybody know for sure if the exhaust system is warranted for 8 years/80,000 miles (97 Tahoe)?
  • graybograybo Posts: 8
    I spoke to the dealer service manager today and he said that his computer would only tell me which O2 sensor was bad. That he wasn't sure if they could test the sensor circuit. My question is, what exactly do I need to tell him to educate him on the circuit problem or should I ask to speak to the technician? He said I needed to go ahead an replace the last two, because when you replace O2 sensors, the old usually go bad shortly thereafter. I told him the heck with that. Poor design. How true that is I don't know. I asked him how I would be sure the problem was corrected and he couldn't answer me. Thank again
  • deathbyvwdeathbyvw Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 VW Jetta. The Check Engine Light comes and goes. Per the manual, this light monitors the emmissions system. Per the dealer, as long as it's not flashing, everything is OK. Any ideas how to TURN IT OFF! I've made three - $300 trips to the dealership. Everytime the light is off when I get it back.....for about 1-2 weeks!

    Any ideas?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    This was a General Motors dealer???
    Ok,I've calmed down now.Let me kind of summarize how this works(this is getting to be more work then I expected(BIG GRIN))The ECM moniters the systems,whether it be the O2,TPS,or emmissions.The sensors send signals in ohms or voltage to the ECM,it looks at those values and sees if they are with in the range that is specified.If a sensor is out of the range,the light sets.If the sensor comes back into that range,then the light goes back off.Now that we have that out of the way,now comes the mechanic.First,he checks the trouble codes.What's this?The O2 sensor code?Well,lets go and see what the Flowchart or diagnostic tree for this code tells us to do.
    Here is a list of codes that are O2 related.
    P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
    P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0162 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    P0163 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    P0164 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    P0165 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
    Now,for each of those codes,is a diagnostic tree or flowchart for testing the circuits to determine what exactly is the cause.Are you paying for this or is it warrantied?If you are footing the bill,go find a good reputable independant shop who can do the diagnostics,cause the dealer you are going to has no clue what they are doing.I hope this gives you and understanding of how it works.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    For a week or two by clearing the codes and sending you on your way.But that isn't fixing it.Somewhere I made a comment about the light,I think it was the post before this one(so many I forget ha ha)Anyway,if it is on,there is a problem,if it is off,there is no problem.But,since your vehicle is a 96,it has the OBD2 diagnostics system and is only accessible from a scanner.Now,is it under warranty?No?Do not go to the dealer,find a good reputable shop,they should be able to access your system and tell you,before they do anything further,what the problem is.Always,tell them you want to know exactly what the problem is before the go any further.If you have a good dealer,it is fine to go there,but if they are a crummy dealer and the warranty is up,there is no need to go there.
  • graybograybo Posts: 8
    I thought the dealer service mgr. was full of
    #!@*. You just confirmed that. I found a good mechanic yesterday, but he doesn't have a scanner. He referred me to someone who did, though. He charges $35 to diagnose the problem, where the dealer charges $65. I really appreciate all your help and time. It's nice to be able to go to a mechanic and at least ask intelligent questions. Also, that is a GM dealer and I am paying for this work. I'll keep you updated.
  • nadavinadavi Posts: 14
    what does code 63 mean in Oldsmobile ninety eight 1988, 3.8 engine?
    what should be done to fix the problem?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    First check the vacuum line going to the EGR valve,then check that the diaphram is working,then you may have to pull the EGR valve and make sure the passage is clear of carbon.
  • graybograybo Posts: 8
    I know you are probably tired of me, but I'm on a mission now. O.K. the scanner read P0161B, H02S heater circuit.
    That is the same O2 sensor that they changed. Now, if you could describe the placement of the O2 sensors, i.e. bank 1 sensor 1, to see if this mechanic is right. The mechanic put it on his lift and showed me the sensors. He said that there is an O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1 on the drivers side manifold. Bank 1 sensor 2 was before the first convertor. Bank 2 sensor 1 was before the second convertor and bank 2 sensor 2 was after the second converter. He was honest and said he had never had to replace O2 sensors on a vehicle that had four O2 sensors. The sensor the dealer changed, according to his logic would have been bank 1 sensor 2. The two sensors in the front had different connections than the ones on the back. Who's right? If they changed out a perfectly good sensor, I really want to know. Thanks.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    DTC P0161 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 2
    Which,if I looked at the diagrams right,should be the very rear O2 sensor.E-mail me and I will send you a flowchart and diagrams for the PO161 trouble code.See if your mechanic has e-mail and I can send him some info.The flowchart and diagrams are about 4 pages,so I will not post them(I hear a sigh of relief from some).I would e-mail them right away,but you don't list an e-mail.you can view my e-mail by clicking on my name.
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Further to my statement earlier on, read this - http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm
  • tbunntbunn Posts: 3
    Hi Opatience and anyone else,
    I am new to the site but am nonetheless a very frustrated 2000 GLS Jetta owner. My O2 sensor failed at 300 miles and was "repaired" At 3,700 miles, the light has gone on again. The dealer is telling me to pick up the car, that after having it for a week, there is nothing wrong. He said that there was a "soft-failure" that the computers didn't indicate. Are you familiar with this term? Is there any other issue that I, as a person who is very inexperienced with cars, can do to check out the problem? Thanks, Jane
  • md_techmd_tech Posts: 84
    Welcome,
    I haven't heard of a (SoftFailure) ,although I have heard of the ECM(Electronic Control Module) storing a code even after the repair was made. What kind of gas are you using in that new 2000 Jetta? Maybe they are experiencing a problem with there O2 sensors and just haven't notifyed customers. Sometimes that's why it's best to wait awhile before buying that just off the assembly line product some bugs still need to be worked out...

    Kristina/host
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Did the light come on and stay on?Was it on when you brought it to the dealer?If yes,then it stored a code.If the light went off before you got it to the dealer,then there is a possibilty(slim),that the code cleared.There isn't much you can do,the system on your vehicle requires a scanner.But,everytime you take your vehicle in for a problem and they do not find anything,have them document your complaint on the work order and get a copy.It will provide you with proof,should the problem continue past the warranty period.If you don't feel confident with the dealer you are going to,is there another Jetta dealer in your area?
  • tbunntbunn Posts: 3
    The light did stay on and was on when I took it to the dealer. They claimed it didn't give them a code that Identified the problem, so they reset the system and tried to recreate the problem - to no avail. Would the code remain stored after they re-set the system? I have the car back (no light on) and took your advice to put a complaint on the work order.I appreciate your help. Jane
  • md_techmd_tech Posts: 84
    Hopefully after clearing the code the check engine light won't come back on. I don't see how it could't set a code if the check engine light came on!!! Does the car drive any differently when the light first appeared on your dash??? Did they say what kind of code it gave them? Just because it didn't identify there problem dosen't mean a code wasen't stored which can surface later...

    Opatience is right, make sure whenever you have to go in again for another check engine light the problem is noted on the RO##. So you can show it's been an ongoing problem for warranty purposes...

    Hope It Get's Resolved,
    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • hooferhoofer Posts: 43
    if certain conditions are met (engine temperature, rpm, etc.).

    You may see the MIL during a demand situation, but with no DTC stored if the thresholds are not met.

    This may be old news (I'm new here and didn't try to read all 201 posts), but a good site is www.obdii.com.

    best of luck
  • amtrackalamtrackal Posts: 2
    I have been reading a lot about the following types of problems and have some information on a fix that has taken approximately 10 months for my Buick dealer to find. I have a 94 Buick regal with the 3.8 V6 and after a tune up around 60,000 miles the service engine soon light started to go on intermittently when starting the engine either hot or cold. If the engine was shut off and restarted the light didn't come on for a few day's. Then once in a while the engine would shut down while driving. The fix was to replace the computer circuit board, EPROM chip and the crank sensor. So far every thing has been working ok.
  • hounddog69hounddog69 Posts: 34
    I have a 1994 Nissan King Cab Truck with 180,000 miles. I brought it in for a smog check and it passed. After I left the test station, I noticed the Check Light was on (it wasn't before the smog check). I returned to the testing station and they said they didn't do anything to cause that. I brought my truck to the Nissan dealership and upon inspection, they said a wire had to be re-soldered...for $90. Personally I think the smog guys slipped somewhere.
  • llee45llee45 Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Nissan Altma, the check engine light came on. I took it to my Nissan dealer, they told me it was a casket leaking oil. They would have to order the casket and it would cost $270.00 to repair.
    My husband does not see any oil leaking. The dip stick maintains high level. Any advise?
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Personally hounddog69, I think the smog guys took the wire off to pass the smog check. I wonder if the truck would pass the smog check with the wire on? And $90 to re-solder a wire!! Sheesh. It would be interesting to know what the wire was connected to.
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    llee45, I don't see any connection between a gasket leaking oil and the check engine light. Ask the dealer what code has been set by the computer and what that code indicates. That would direct you to the bad component. The only thing that comes to mind could be oil leaking into the exhaust manifold somehow and fouling the 02 sensor. Although I find that hard to visualize.
Sign In or Register to comment.