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If the light is on,it will shut off when the problem is fixed or goes away(ha ha).
Is it the check engine light or the oil change light?
If it is the check engine light,then you have to find out what the codes are(scanner only) and repair the problem.
or is there a difference in terms of heating coil resistance and/or sensor voltage? also, why are some 3 and some 4 wires, could I just use a 4-wire sensor and connect the ground (4th wire) to the chassis? Are all the OEM sensors just a rip-off or are there real differences (except the price)?
Thanks for any help!
Doubtfully a sticking valve,more than likely an electrical problem.I'll check a little further and post more later.
Code 43 (ignore the code 12)
Spark Control.
Ignition coil No. 1 primary circuit malfunction.
Ignition coil No. 2 primary circuit malfunction.
Multiple cylinder misfire.
Cylinder No. 1 has misfired.
Cylinder No. 2 has misfired.
Cylinder No. 3 has misfired.
Cylinder No. 4 has misfired.
mitch38,
You need to post what trouble codes were retrieved. If you are throwing parts at it without knowing what the trouble codes are, STOP.
Get the trouble codes and we can help.
Have they checked secondary ignition pattern with an engine analyzer? That should be doen to confirm that the plug wires are ok. Did you use a good quality plug wire set? Cheap plug wires can cause the code 43.
Check firing order, plug wires and compression.
If I shut down the engine and restart it.(do not wait engine to cool) the light is not on. And every thing is normal. But if I drive it at about 50mph for 3-4mails again the light come one again. If I drive at low speed(under 40mph) the light never come on and fan shown no problem.
If I start the engine and run at idle. The fan will begin working when engine is hot and shut down automaticly when coolant temperature is low.
Thank-you
If it's a soft code, (condition no longer exists eg. gas cap was loose) a given number of drive cycles will clear it. Typically, this consists of starting the engine cold (less than 160 F), driving it above a given speed long enough to cycle the cooling fans twice, and being within 375 RPM and 10% load of conditions when the MIL triggered, IF the fault no longer exists.. Could take 50 - 60 trips to duplicate the conditions. Looks like you'll have to take it back to the dealer. Aftermarket shops won't have the 2001 software for their scan tools yet.
Al
Thanks in advance
Try this - jumper terminal B directly to a known good ground. That should put it in diagnostic mode.
Thanks.
Thanks again for your response.
Anyone have any similar problems with Nissan vehicles?
Second, what's your question?
If it is the check engine light, the only way to reset it is a scanner, but if the problem isn't fixed, the light will come back on again.
If it is the oil change or mantenance required light, then turn the key to on, not start, step down on the throttle pedal 3 times and the light should start to blink, when the light starts to blink, turn the key off, the next time you start the car, the light should go out.
This was not a big deal until I failed the new emissions test here in Georgia run on a dynamo. Last year the car failed with a high reading of NO-ppm (NOX). The shop where I’ve had good service on multiple cars said the catalytic converter was worn out, replaced it and the car passed. The SES light still came on under the exact same conditions. This year the car failed again with NO-ppm at 2282 with the allowable limit of 1163. The HC were 15 (allowable 162) and CO-% 0.01 (allowable 1.04). The shop said they could replace the converter again and with a brand new converter the NO-ppm might drop low enough to pass the test but that would not solve the EGR problem. They gave me some names of other shops in the area that do emissions work to see if the car can be fixed. Before goin to a new shop I'd like some advice. I checked the codes and get a “12-32-12”. Also the car does have an after-market gas cap but it has passed the gas cap test on emissions every year. The car has had new plugs, PCV valve, radiator and coolent temperature sensors since the SES problem developed without any effect on the SES.
I’m sure that since the SES light only comes on with deceleration that there is a specific problem in the EGR system. Hopefully this makes since to someone who will then know how to fix what ever is malfunctioning and setting the code. Would a GM gas cap make a difference? I’ve tried 93 octane gas and there is no difference. I’d really like to know what is wrong so the car can be fixed.
This was not a big deal until I failed the new emissions test here in Georgia run on a dynamo. Last year the car failed with a high reading of NO-ppm (NOX). The shop where I’ve had good service on multiple cars said the catalytic converter was worn out, replaced it and the car passed. The SES light still came on under the exact same conditions. This year the car failed again with NO-ppm at 2282 with the allowable limit of 1163. The HC were 15 (allowable 162) and CO-% 0.01 (allowable 1.04). The shop said they could replace the converter again and with a brand new converter the NO-ppm might drop low enough to pass the test but that would not solve the EGR problem. They gave me some names of other shops in the area that do emissions work to see if the car can be fixed. Before goin to a new shop I'd like some advice. I checked the codes and get a "12-32-12". Also the car does have an after-market gas cap but it has passed the gas cap test on emissions every year. The car has had new plugs, PCV valve, radiator and coolent temperature sensors since the SES problem developed without any effect on the SES.
Code 32 = EGR valve - or - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor open circuit
I own a 1994 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GT. About a year ago, the "low coolant" light came on. After driving home, I checked under the hood and found that I had plenty of coolant according to the dipstick indicator. I also checked the next day, when the engine was cool. The dipstick still showed plenty of coolant.
Just to be on the safe side, I added some coolant to the reservoir. However, the low coolant light still came on that day, after about 15 minutes of driving.
That week, I took the car to my local Pontiac dealership's service department. I asked them to check out the problem. When I got my car back that night, they claimed they couldn't find any problem.
Driving the car home, sure enough, the coolant light came on. After driving the car another month, with no problems other than the light, I returned to the dealership service department. I asked the dealer to check if the coolant system was leaking. The dealership kept the car overnight, to check the leak. The next day, I picked the car up. No leak, according to the service advisor. I complained that the light would still come on. The service advisor told me that fixing the light was not worth looking into, as it would be an expensive repair. His attitude was, if the only thing wrong with your car is the light, then don't worry about it.
Since then, I have had the coolant flushed at least twice, and added coolant on my own, just to be safe. The light still comes on each and every day, once the engine has been running for 15 minutes or so. However, there have been no other problems.
Has anyone else run into this problem? My girlfriend's brother has a newer model Firebird with the WS6 option, and supposedly he has had the same problem.
A dead cylinder would definitely cause a rich condition.
You need to check what the compression is of each cylinder, if one is extremely low and oil soaked, then it is possible that it may be time for a major repair.