Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

snowman · October 2003

If you don't live in CA, emission warranty from Ford covers only Cat. Converter beyond 36K.
Well, there are two O2 sensors in 2000+ Tauruses. One before CT Converter and one after (bank 2) which is I am suspecting. This one only measures the exhaust temp and send the output to PCM. Should not have nay effect on gas mileage.
And I am not a big fan of replacing parts blindly. That creates more frustration. Since the light didn't came back I have enough time to fish...
Besides Vulcan engines are very famous for pinging, I have been reading all posts from different forums (Ranger 3.0 and Taurus). People change things left right but no clear cut solutions to this and very few of them got rid of pinging. However I believe this is related to EGR and upintake carbon built up.

badgerfan · October 2003

How can you assume a bad O2 sensor will not affect gas mileage and engine performance? That O2 sensor's output feeds back to engine control computer which one can assume is adjusting engine timing, fuel mixture, and who knows what else to maintain performance and emission controls. If the computer is getting a false or no signal out of this sensor, it seems to me it could very well be affecting performance and mileage as it is adjusting engine performance based on false sensor data.

alcan · October 2003

When an engine is started cold it's running in open loop, meaning the ECM uses mainly throttle position, coolant temp, and manifold vacuum to calculate fuel delivery. After the O2 sensor heats up, it starts generating a voltage signal relative to the amount of oxygen left in the exhaust gases after the combustion process. The ECM goes closed loop, using this signal as a final "quality control" check to more precisely control fuel delivery.

e_net_rider · October 2003

I wrote a couple of months ago about what was thought to be a cut wire inside the rubber boot going to the lift gate. I started noticing sound cutting in and out as I move the lift gate up and down. Checked inside that boot and found what looked like another cut wire, but that wasn't it. After checking very carefully I located the wire and the copper obviously broke inside the insulation. Since no one has had access outside of my sight I now know it is bad wiring. Their are not sufficient strands and gauge to stand that flexing and eventually the insulation breaks as well. I've worked aircraft wiring and electronics for many years and know what I'm talking about. This presents a dangerous situation where lighting on the gate in particularly brake lighting will malfuncion. Ford needs to recall all wagons with this deficient wiring and fix.

e_net_rider · October 2003

Definitely double check that O2 and change it if it is bad. Is 764 the platinum? little foggy on autolite's numbering right now. Definitely use platinum and double may not be a bad idea. If worried about removing, get some anti-seize. Some cheap dip put non platinums in this one before I got it. Looked like new and gap good. Picked up some Bosch platinum cheaply,(I usually stick with autolites)and it appears milage has picked up. Looks like it might be an extra 2MPG.

e_net_rider · October 2003

I've learned it is definitely the S and it has very little difference from the AXODE. Considered the brake switch, but feel that is unlikely to cause an early lock-up. It is going to be important to figure out what signals are being fed to the computer from the tranny. I know TOT is one, but suspect there are others such as speed or pressure. Anyone know?

alcan · October 2003

What year?

snowman · October 2003

764 is copper, I believe. I bought 6 of them (autolite)last month but didn't get a chance to put in. Many poeple (Ranger and Taurus owners got rid of pinging by using copper plugs.
O2 seems like OK now. Mileage went back to original which is 21 mpg in city. I think it is pretty good. I didn't know what was it, glitch or ... I am keeping eye on it. If it comes up again, will show no mercy, I change the sucker.

bigdadi · October 2003

94 Taurus shut down in warm weather (humid, 80 degrees or above after driving for about 1.5 to 2 hours.
Cure: Change PFE sensor and fuel pump.
Reason: When it overheated, cut off fuel. When it cooled down, it works OK.
Cost: About $500 - 600

ajaialex · October 2003

I am having a 2001 model Taurus. It's under factory warranty. When starting the car in the morning i can hear a howling noice from the Engine belt or adjusting pulley. It wont be there once engine gets warm. That means within 10 mins that sound won't be there. Do you have any suggesstion what to do on this. I show the service centre. They told me that they can't detect the prob?

badgerfan · October 2003

I suggest you bring it in at the end of the day, have them keep the car and let it sit on their lot overnight, then the dealer mechanic should start it up cold first thing in the morning so they can experience the cold start howl. If it happens every cold morning start, they may be able to find it.

ajaialex · October 2003

I am having a 2001 Ford Taurus. It's under warranty. There is a motor rotating noice which is similar to a cracking noice when both front windows are closed.I have given it to the dealer. But the sound is still there.

fdthird · October 2003

My advice...get use to it. My wife's 2001 SEL did the same thing (as did our old '89 wagon). We have a great relationship with our dealer's Service Manager and let him hear the noise. He kept the car for 3 days while he tried various things and called the Ford folks in on the deal too. His take was that the windows were going beyond where they should travel and that he needed to adjust/install window stops. The word from Ford...no stops and none available. I told him that my '89 wagon had done the same thing and he said he wouldn't be surprised if Ford was still using the same guts and that the problem with the two cars that were 12 years apart was exactly the same.

One of the few things on the car that drives me nuts.

PS - Don't let them try to lubricate the rollers...our guys did that (trying to do right by us) and now we get grease lines on the driver's window after repeated trips up and down.

badgerfan · October 2003

I haven't noticed any unusual noise in my power windows, except an occasional clunk somewhere in midstroke when the rear ones are opened and reclosed, but this doesn't really bother me. My rear windows are used very rarely in any event.

What is most impressive to me is the absolute lack of any squeaks and rattles in this car-now at 30k miles and 3 years in service. Unlike what you might read about in the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry discussions. There is even a separate Camry Rattles discussion section.

I have been monitoring and participating at this site for quite a while and have seen very few reliability/maintenance issues on the current generation Taurus. Are they in general performing very well, or do we just have very few people participating in this site?

danielj6 · October 2003

"I have been monitoring and participating at this site for quite a while and have seen very few reliability/maintenance issues on the current generation Taurus. Are they in general performing very well, or do we just have very few people participating in this site?"

May be all of the above but there seems to be a great deal more people participating in Camry threads than in Fords'.

snowman · October 2003

If you need detailed discussions you might want to visit
http://www.tauruscarclub.com/forum/
However, recent quality is way up compare with past generations.

danielj6 · October 2003

Thank you Snowman for the link. I registered and posted there asking for advice on the problem I'm having with my Sable.

rcichocki · October 2003

I own a '97 Taurus GL w/62K mi. I have noticed that both headlight lenses are starting to cloud over making night driving a little more dangerous.
When I mentioned the problem to the Ford dealer they told me that replacing both assemblies would cost between $500-700.
This seems to be a design problem, although I can't prove it. It's also happening to my '99 Plymouth minivan.
Do we have any suggestions out there for correcting this headlamp condition short of replacing the assemblies???

Thanks

e_net_rider · October 2003

Sorry, I'd been away. If that question addressed me, the year of the vehicle is a 97. the numbers on the tranny indicate 96. Is probably a late 96 design that went into an early production 97 Sable.

badgerfan · October 2003

Are you using some cleaner, wax or abrasive product on the lenses that is producing fine scratches or chemically attacking the lense? We own a '96 Caravan as well as a 2000 Taurus and so far have no clouding on even the Caravan which has been in service for a few years now. We do nothing to the lenses except wash by hand or through car washes. We use no cleaners or polishes on the lenses at all.

You might want to check out junkyards/used auto parts places to save some $ on replacement headlight assemblies for your Taurus, but you will have to look the used parts over to make sure they are clear enough and don't have any damage or signs of moisture leakage.

wijoco · October 2003

$500-$700?!?! That's obscene. Here's a $10 solution that will clear up your Plymouth and Ford headlights. Purchase the harshest polishing compound/cutting compound you can find. I use Meguiar's Cutting Compound Step 1. Talk to your local parts store or detailer to see what they stock. Anyway, use a damp cotton cloth and polish the heck out of the lens, stopping to buff it and clean the cloth periodically. You may need to repeat the process a number of times to get the results you want. Do one headlight at a time so that you can see the difference. After you're satisified, finish up with a coat of carnauba wax to help protect the new surface. Basically, what you've done is remove the layer of yellowed plastic and revealed the fresh clear plastic underneath. This works on any manufacturer's plastic lenses.

brucebro · October 2003

I have a 1999 Taurus SE. I have an extended warranty that ends at the end of the month (Friday!). Whereas there does not seem to be anything major wrong with the vehicle at this time, (I just replaced the brakes for the third time), I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions or have had any problems that I may want to have checked under the warranty. I find that the transmission isn't as smooth while shifting - should I be concerned. Your comments are appreciated.

riswami · October 2003

miles do you have on your 99? What kind of driving do you do? Do you tend to jam on the brakes just before taking an exit? Brakes for the most part depend on driving style.

For reference I have a 97 and I've done the brakes for each set of wheels once. They each went over 90,000 miles.

I don't notice any change in my transmission and how it shifts. I have gotten a "Service Engine Soon Code,"of excessive slippage in the torque converter. That was at 71k. I'm at 98.5k and still on that tranny. Just had the code a couple of times in the last month. I didn't have it interegated; mechanic said it'll be stored in the computer.It could be a tranny code or maybe it's something else. Car runs fine. I'll wait and see if the light comes on again then I'll take it to the mechanic.

strokeoluck · October 2003

Re: reliability. My 2000 Taurus has ~105,000 miles, about 80% of which are highway miles. The car has really been great, I'm very satisfied. (Too bad their Windstar gets such a bad rap because I like the looks of that thing.) Currently the only slight problems I'm having are:
1) transmission not "quite" as smooth as it used to be, though I doubt anyone else even notices.
2) now that it's getting colder the steering wheel makes a slight groaning noise when cranked too far left or right - or turned too quickly. I've seen others post the same problem. Not sure what to do about it, but it's not a major issue.

Otherwise it runs very well and most people are shocked at how many miles I have on this seemingly "new" car. AND I leave it outside every day/night. The finish has dulled just a tad but then again I rarely wax it, only wash. Overall it's very comfortable and very reliable. If they could jazz up the looks I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

Re: headlights. Is it possible you have a tiny stone chip/crack? That's happened to me before and you do have to replace the lens in that case. Since they're all fairly modular now it doesn't surprise me it would be that much. I'd search for a local mechanic that may be able to help you out...that part of the car is not rocket science. Good luck.

- R

fdthird · October 2003

We love my wife's 2001 SEL, but wish Ford had put the washer jets somewhere other than on the hood (same problem with my son's Focus). After you wash the windows, they dribble washer fluid across the hood. The marks just don't come off! What a pain...anyone have any solution?

wijoco · October 2003

Are you haveing the transmission serviced biannually? That's the most important first step. Ford automatics really need their TLC: a fluid drain and refill along with a filter replacement every 2 years/30,000 miles at least. Make sure you use the fluid recommended on the dipstick. It's a do-it-yourself project, not much harder than changing your oil, really.

riswami · October 2003

I need to clarify what I was trying to say in post 1036.
My Service Engine Soon Light has come on twice in the past two months. It has gone away both times. The codes are stored; I haven't had the computer interegated.

As far as changing the filter every 30k, I don't know if it is necessary. I did mine at 90k. Mechanic stated my tranny and pan were extremely clean. I've done the fluid exchange at 30 and 60k so it should have been.

e_net_rider · October 2003

That is a [non-permissible content removed] of mine. Those plastic headlamps should be a safety item requiring going back to the old glass assemblies. And the taillamps have similar concerns. That cheap reflective coating comes loose and off with age and then you're stuck with dim lights at the back. Give me the old chromed steel with a good weather seal anyday. At least you could do a rechrome with them.

e_net_rider · October 2003

Dropped the pan again after only about 4000 miles and I'm alarmed. I've been having the early shift and lock-up on 3 and 4 and that is why I did the flush and filter. There was some greyish material on the magnet and slightly dark fluid the first time. This time the magnet was covered with a few tablespoons of what is black and slick feeling as if it were dissolved orings. Has to have a metalic component to it though or it wouldn't have gone to the magnet. Fluid and pan looked fine

mamameow · October 2003

Hi!

Maybe someone can give me some feedback. W/in the past 2 months at time when I go to pull my key out of the ignition it gets stuck. So I will turn the key forward, backward, and back to its position to try to pull out and it wont. It seems what I have to do is to start the engine again and shift into reverse, then back into parok and turn off and then the key will pull out "like its supposed to".

I am puzzled as to why there has to be some majicical way to get the damn key out???? God I hope its not that !!!! LOL

Thanks guys!

wijoco · October 2003

Sounds like you have a legitimate ignition lock problem. Assuming it's still under warranty, I would let the dealer handle it. Just provide them with a list of conditions/steps necessary to make the key jam so they don't spend all day without finding the problem.

fdthird · November 2003

Don't you hate it when a car fixes itself? You know it will do it again some dark and stormy night!

badgerfan · November 2003

Just thought I would post about my recent experiences. My 2000 Taurus has a little over 30K on it and I had not had an alignment since it was new. It still tracked OK. Recently I noticed that the left front tire appeared worn slightly more than the other three but all four showed even wear with no unusual wear patterns, so I swapped the left front with the right rear, deciding to put the two best tires on the front to even out the wear rates. After this swap, the car pulled to the left, no matter what the road crown was. I then had an alignment done, and garage said it was off a fair amount from specs. After the alignment, the car still tracked to the left, but not as severely. I then swapped left front with right front, and now car tracks perfectly, showing a slight drift to the right when in a right hand freeway lane which is crowned high on the left side, and a slight drift to the left when on the left most freeway lane, which is normally crowned high on the right side.

I admit I have not rotated tires as frequently as I should have, maybe every 10-12K miles, so the tires may have taken a bit of a "set" depending on rotation direction and perhaps some non visible tire wear or tire carcass shift has been affected by misalignment.

In any case this experience shows that tires and tire wear conditions can affect mistracking of the car, even though alignment may be within mfr's specs. Beware, mistracking is not always just an alignment issue!

ehenness · November 2003

You're right. I had a pull to the left in my Taurus at 11,000 miles, which developed when I rotated the rear tires onto the front. The tire had what they call a 'radial lead,' which wasn't noticeable until it got put on the front end of the car. Nor did it show any wear pattern (or much wear at all).

This is an internal defect within the tread of the tire, and it's not necessarily visible in inspecting the car.

To their credit, General (who was the warrantee party, not Ford, which has changed) replaced the tire for me.

Moving the tires side to side or end to end can really help diagnose the problem.

e_net_rider · November 2003

I've had them many years ago on some cars I acquired and considered buying them a few times. No More.. My wife had a pair put on the front of the 92 Taurus and a few days later I had to do a panic stop. No anti-lock, which was a blessing because it would have forced a release of the back maybe and made stopping even worse. Those Generals had no bite. Replaced them with Sears Guardsman a few days later which is a cheaper tire and they bite.

driverbern · November 2003

I have a 2002 SEL that I purchased new. I travel for my job and the car now has 103,000 miles on it. Two weeks ago, while in Atlanta, my oil pressure light came on while the car was at idle (at about 600 rpm). I took it to a dealer there and they said it was the "sending unit" and replaced it for $209. The warning light is still coming on sometimes at idle but is fine once the rpms go higher.
Any ideas?

badgerfan · November 2003

Don't know if it is still true but in the past most cars have oil pumps driven directly off the engine. If oil pump is failing, it will not produce enough pressure when car is at idle but will at higher engine speeds.

Makes you wonder if the problem was misdiagnosed the first time and the oil pressure sending unit was doing its job and the real problems was a failing oil pump.

That's a lot of miles in a short time! How has your SEL been otherwise? Keep us posted as the miles pile up.

wijoco · November 2003

What kind care have you taken with oil changes during the life of the car? It sounds like you have a legitimate oil pressure problem. I would take it back to the same dealer and ask to have the oil pressure tested.

driverbern · November 2003

My car has been great up to now. I had to replace a stabilizer bar at forty some thousand and a heater fan but that's it.
I always change the oil at 3000 to 4000 miles intervals.
Thanks for your input. I guess I'll call a repair shop to have them check it out again. It frustrates me to pay their overhead rates and come away with the same problem. I can't take it back to the same Ford dealer since that's in Atlanta and now I'm back home (near Phila., PA).

badgerfan · November 2003

Having to have service done far from home is kind of a crap shoot-you are at the mercy of the shop and since you may be long gone if they don't fix what was wrong and you don't see the problem right out the door again, you are kind of out of luck. Hope your problem isn't too costly in addition to the money already spent.

I'm with you on the oil change inteverals, I change every 3K but put much less miles on in a year. It is cheap insurance, especially since I do it myself. I buy oil (name brands but I am not fussy on the particular brand) on sale with rebates for usually 59 cents a quart and filters (OEM Motorcraft) for usually less than $4. Each oil change costs me about $8-$9 per change, and it is more convenient than going somewhere else. I can change it on my schedule not some garage's.

My community has a recycling yard where I can dispose of the used oil, so I am not polluting the environment either with my waste oil.

e_net_rider · November 2003

I hope you requested the old part. Seems pretty pricey for an oil sending unit. The logical approach would have been to check the pressure first and then replace if necessary. Why do something else that only needs reconfirming that the pressure is bad.
If the pressure is truly good at higher RPM's you may be in luck. High pressure system pumps usually have a spring loaded relief ball as an integrated part of the pump assembly. It may have gotten stuck open and I would say dropping the pump is probably the next logical step. Also check to make sure there is no oil in coolant and no signs of it going out the exhaust from an internal failure that might direct part of it that direction.
My father had a chevy truck, 60's vintage, that would occaisonally flash the oil light at idle. They rebuilt at 12000 and again at 28000 as they missed the source of the problem the first time. It was some sort of internal oil line that had cracked.
good luck

willis3 · November 2003

I have a '97 Taurus GL with the Vulcan engine. There seems to be a leak with the coolant system, however, I have never had an overheating problem with the engine. Drove 140 miles last weekend, not problems.

Went out on Saturday, saw the coolant was low. Filled it up, and saw some coolant leak out, however, the tank is not completely empty.

Has anyone else experienced this? Anyone know what I should look to replace?

Thanks.

tjdepere2004 · November 2003

where did you see the leak? If in a hose replace the hose. If at a clamp attempt to tighen the clamp and watch for awhile. If in the radiator itself, buy a good sealer at auto supply store and see what happens after driving for awhile. If that does not work go to a radiator repair shop, not a general auto repair shop. If you see white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe go to the dealer immediately. peace

rushing1 · November 2003

I have a '99 Taurus SE with the Vulcan engine. I had occasional small puddles of coolant under the car. I had the system pressure tested, but the shop could not find the leak. Some friends with a Taurus recommended replacing the coolant overflow tank. I bought a new tank at the dealer and put it on my car. The old tank had what looked like stress fractures in the bottom of the tank that was against the fender. Apparently the temperature / pressure had to be at a certain point for coolant to be able to leak. I have had no problems since replacing the overflow tank. There were two screws holding the tank in place, and two hoses to disconnect and re-attach. All was very easily accessible. If you have replaced a radiator hose, you could probably replace this tank by yourself.

rdey · November 2003

I just sold off my 2001 Taurus SES with 37000 miles on it. During it's lifetime the car had 3 oil leaks. Rattling dash board which dealer asked me to change fornt tires and a wheel alignment! After it didn't fix the problem, dealer tightened up all the screws etc but refused to return money for mis-diagnostic. They were never able to fix the problem. The rubber on the door fell off with 10,000 miles. The wind shield wiper blades were adjusted more than 5 times because of lound banging noise. The window started to make noise going up and down within the first year. Even heating system made weird noises when first started. In a way it's probably the worst car built in Amercia. GPM was around 18 on highway. Honestly don't buy this car - I think even Hundai or Kia makes better cars than this piece of junk.

badgerfan · November 2003

Your experience is certainly not the norm. Sounds like you had issues with a bad dealer service that while regrettable is not all Ford's fault. Note even Consumer Reports has Taurus at average reliability and it has been on their recommended list for several years now.

I have never had mileage below about 21-22 even in tanks with a good percentage of city driving, and this should be about the same whether you had the Vulcan or Duratec. My strictly highway mileage has always been in the upper 20's. Car is solid with no rattles, or squeaks even over rough roads.

snowman · November 2003

Sorry to hear all those issues with your X car. Most likely you had lemon, but those issues you described could have easyly addressed by good dealer. No moatter what brand yo buy, in these days, you always have a chance to get lemon, even Honda and Toyota. Probability might be changing from brand to brand but always exists.

My Taurus never had accessory related problems.

fdthird · November 2003

Once again a bad car made even worse by a bad dealer! In the end who loses??? Ford.

Sorry you had such a bad experience but I agree that a major part of your problem was a dealer who didn't give a damn. That's why, to me, there are so many considerations above and beyond the price you get when you are selecting a car dealer.

My wife's 2001 SEL is a great car and with just over 30,000 miles is still fun to drive and she still loves it!

strokeoluck · December 2003

I too must say that my Taurus is performing very well. I have a 2000 SE with 108,000 miles - the last 25-30,000 of which have been rough city driving (around the Detroit area...believe me it doesn't get much rougher). I'm still surprised at how well this car is holding up. No squeeks or rattles and it still looks darn good too.

Wife and I just purchased a new minivan and made it a Chrysler - unfortunately I'm still not convinced the Windstar (now the Freestar) is dramatically improved in terms of quality. But friends of mine that work at Ford (that admitted the Windstar sucked) say the new Freestar is a fine vehicle, but only time will tell. But my last two American cars: Grand Prix and Taurus both had >100,000 miles and both performed great. I am NOT a believer that you have to pay 20% premium for a foreign car to get excellent quality.

- R

willis3 · December 2003

Rushing1, I think that is exactly the problem, otherwise I'm sure the car would have overheated by now as I've still been driving it but never experience an overheating problem. Thanks.

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