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"As mmcbride1 helpfully pointed out in the previous message, questions on leasing are probably more appropriate for the Finance, Warranty, & Insurance Message Board. However, since you have already posted here I would be more than happy to let you know what I think about the price that you were quoted to lease this car. You said that you have been quoted $564 per month with $1,700 down to lease a 2001 BMW 325i for 36 months. You did not mention how many miles per year this lease allows, but the payment that you were quoted definitely seems too high regardless of the mileage allowance. Right now BMW is nationally advertising a lease on a 2001 325i for $329 per month with $2,500 down for 36 months. Even though this lease only includes 10,000 miles per year, probably has less equipment, and has a slightly higher down payment it is a considerably better deal than the one that you were quoted. In fact, as you have heard this payment is even on the high side for a 330i. Right now the 2001 330i is being advertised nationally for $379 per month with $2,500 down over 36 months and with 10,000 miles per year. And this lease is based on a $34,635 car! I certainly think that it is in your best interest to comparison shop at a few more dealerships to see if you can do better than the deal that you have been quoted."
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2200 575 bank(includes tax on it) 1sr mth 621 and plates was 150
Please help! I've been ripped off so many times this whole ordeal is making me sick.
Thanks in advance.
I am going to the Volvo dealer this weekend, and am ready to lease a car. What are the Money Factor and Residuals for the S80 2.9 and S60 2.4T, for 39,42, and 48 months?
If you can, I need this information ASAP!!!
I am in FL if this helps.
TIA.
Gwarren again, welcome back I am e-mailing rather than posting as it is easier for me to type in this format. This will be long but as it will be a three year decision that I will have to live with I want it to be with as much knowledge as possible. I read many of your postings and you are generally right on target or you seek out the answer and I value your opinion. Would like your opinion on my selections as well as info on the lease programs, so here goes:
1. I am still considering 4 different possibilities for my lease, and the final price will probably make the decision. I do not fall in love with any one vehicle, as that ruins any bargaining power, and eliminates flexibility. My goal is to have a monthly payment under $400 including tax, with no money down. Would like to only pay required inception fees as determined by manufacturer lease company.
2. I live in the South Florida area as I know that sometimes the available incentives are determined by location. Of course the Residuals and Money Factor combined with possible rebates level out the field even though the MSRP's are varied. I have learned from you not to be concerned about the vehicles value when leasing, as sometimes the monthly payment on a more expensive vehicle will be the same as on one that costs less.
3. The lease terms would be
a) Three years preferred, 39 months (maybe even 42) OK as long as the Manufact. warranty still applies.
b) 12,000 miles per year, even 10,000 would be acceptable.
c) Prefer the lease to be through the Manufacturer company rather than an outside bank.
d) As our current lease terminates July 7th, we could utilize the June offers or go into July. I know that this is currently an unknown, unless you have some advance knowledge of what is planned for July. I can also wait until August as I can easily extend my lease by the month at the current price. (FORD)
4. The Vehicles, all would only have to be 2WD unless only available as AWD. (South Florida, very flat)
a) Acura MDX Like the vehicle a lot seems to offer the most features for the price, great residual, Money Factor, OK, but dealers not yet willing to go under MSRP. They are generally adding equipment and charging over MSRP. I know this will change in the future as Acura has a history of changing. Also no white? and My wife only likes white vehicles???
b) Lexus RX 300 Best ride of the 4, no third row and smaller inside. Residual good, money Factor high, but dealers seem to be anxious and have lots of supply. Appears to be a lot of room for negotiation, even though it has the highest MSRP
c) Infinity QX4 Good vehicle, but needs the Navigation to have some of the trip computer options available on the others. Very luxurious ride and of course Infinity service seems to be a cut above the rest. Residual not very good and Money Factor is great. Dealers do not seem eager to negotiate.
d) 2002 Mercury Mountaineer Can load up to compare features to the others, and maybe even a little more (American Gizmos). Residual is terrible, Money Factor is good. I also know that I will get the best deal out of Mercury as I have a Mercury Mountaineer on lease now. First no bank fee, no deposit, and they will pay the first month's payment, as well as the $750 loyalty rebate offered.
5. Now you have it, of course what I am looking for is the vehicle with a 1. High residual, 2. Low Money Factor, 3. Manufacturer rebate, 4. dealers that are anxious to negotiate, and move units. Would appreciate your input when you have a chance,
Thanks,
Gary Warren
I checked out leasecompare.com and it is a good price compared to the lease prices. The MSRP is around 21,221 and the invoice is $19173+500 dealer profit+135 remote entry +50 doc fees.
The residual is 11,453 at 54%. This also includes 15k miles per year as well.
Should I buy, lease, wait until the end of the month? Does Toyota usually have any leasing incentives?
First thing I'd do is find out the interest on the loan and the lease. The loan is a straightforward number, probably around 8-9%. Then ask what is the money factor on the lease and multiply it by 2400--that is the interest on leasing. If one is a better rate, that would be my first choice all other things being equal.
The next thing I would do is decide how long I want to keep this car. If you are going to keep it only 3 years you should lease it and then you only pay sales tax on the lease payments. If you are going to buy it anyway after the lease is up then you might be better off buying it now and paying sales tax on just the cost price; if you lease it first and then buy it you will end up paying sales tax on the lease payments (which include interest) plus the residual.
Also, if you lease there is a lease acquisition fee of a few hundred dollars that you can save if you just buy the car now. If the interest is the same, and the sales tax is not an issue for you (some states don't have any sales tax), then you would come out ahead by buying just by saving the lease acquisition fee. Do you know how much you're being charged for a lease acquisition fee?
You are doing the right thing by trying to get as much info as you can before you sign anything.
And yes, the payment is not surprising. It is kind of like a 2nd mortgage, except after 30 years you still have a house and what you paid for the car is all...gone.
1) What are the residual and MF corresponding to this lease? Also 24-month terms?
2) How long is this promotion good for?
3) Being a "3rd car", I'd anticipate low miles (even lower than 10K/yr.). Are there any corresponding resid's and MFs for lower mileage allotments?
4) The Z3, being a later-in-its-model-cycle car, should have significantly more negotiating room than did my brand-new-model 330i (6 months ago). I'd guess $1,000 over invoice would not be unreasonable, so the $299/mo would really be worst case. Are there any other promotions or things to be aware of?
5) Does BMWFS still offer the multiple security deposits option to reduce the MF?
Thanks for your help!
Can you tell me the current residual and money factor for 30 and 36 month lease of TL-S w/nav? Thank you for your time and effort.
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2001 Volvo S80 2.9 Sedan SR, MSRP = $39,525 & Capitalized Cost = $36,508: $469/month with $1,495 down for 36 months with $475 security deposit, $495 acquisition fee, and 12,000 miles per year.
2001 Volvo S60 2.4T A Sedan: $429/month with $1,495 down for 36 months with $450 security deposit, $495 acquisition fee, and 12,000 miles per year.
I hope that this information helps you out. If you think of any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Car_Man
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All of the following leases are through their manufacturers' captive finance company and are based on 36 month terms with $0 down and 12,000 miles per year:
2001 Acura MDX: MSRP: $34,850, Edmunds.com TMV: $36,060, $537/month
2001 Lexus RX 300 (2WD): MSRP: $34,500, Edmunds.com TMV: $31,030, $425/mo. (this is using a residual value of 62% which is a guess on my part)
2001 Infiniti QX4 (2WD): MSRP: $34,695, Edmunds.com TMV: $32,153, $437/mo.
2002 Mercury Mountaineer (2WD): MSRP: $29,230, Edmunds.com TMV: $27,868 - 750 loyalty, $420/mo.
This little comparison should give you a good idea of what it would cost to lease these trucks in today's market.
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I then talked to the general sales manager and before I could even sit down he told me it would "cost a lot". He asked me how early I would turn it in (1 year) and what my monthly payments were. Then (to my amazement) he multiplied my monthly payment by 12 months to give me what I would have to pay to turn my car in early.
I almost laughed, if I were to pay the whole amount off I think I would just keep the car for the duration. I then told him I thought the calculation for depreciation would be taken 1 year earlier and that is what the value of the car would be (after they check it over). He then basically told me that lease estimates are not an exact science and they wouldn't be able to get that kind of calculation because it is very subjective.
This was a shock to me because when I purchased the car the salesman told me about the amazing lease where I could turn it in early or sell it off, basically do anything I wanted. I went with this type of lease because you never know when something else may come along (as it did).
I tried to sell my car privately (competitively priced) but there isn't a large A6 market where I live.
Is this scenario correct? Seems unbelievable.
I don't know if Audi Credit has similar policies to VW Credit or not but it does state in the leasing contract I signed that I can exercise my purchase option at any time during the lease and that I can terminate the lease early also.
He quoted a sale price of $29,681.00, I think this to high.
They quoted me $441.00 per month.
What is a fair monthly payment?
Sort of.
It all depends on which state it is, and how they calculate sales tax.
Basically, there's 3 ways of doing it:
1) They tax the payment and down payment. Most states do it this way, and since there is interest in there, you do pay tax on that. This is how its' done in FL, GA, MO, CT, CA..etc..
2) They tax the whole selling price of the car. This is how Illinois, Texas, (I think Iowa) and now Ohio do it.
3) They tax the depreciation amount only. This is how NJ does it.
4) They have no idea. This is how NY State does it (hahahaha)
Bill
Did they gaurantee that it would be sold for at least X dollars?
It sounds like you could still owe a huge amount if it doesn't sell for anywhere near what you owe on the lease.
Since this is a wholesale auction, it probably be sold for a very low price.
It sounds like the process is very simple as long as you are ready to pay any amount of money to get out of the lease.
In your response 1219 you said the mf for 36 mos is .0014. Dealer told me .0018. Please, which is it? Also, is it correct that Sub Motor Credit and Chase are one in the same. Tx.
You are responsible for all the payments in the lease..Period..!
The easiest way to overcome it is..call and get your pay-off, which includes all your payments remaining ( minus the interest that may incrue ) and the residual, that has structered the lease. And try to retail the vehicle, for as much as possible -- and you may have to come to the table with some cash ( depending on the lease to pay-off the whole amount ) .....which I'm sure you will have to do...
This is the easiest, "least painful" way to address it --- If- you decide to trade it in, the dealer will put a wholesale number on the vehicle, which at this point will probably put you at least-another $4/$5,000 out of round, on the next vehicle ....
So, in your hearts if you need to get rid of it -- advertise it and have some cash ready for the pay-off....
By the way, there is no such thing as a $250 termination fee or, just drop it off "the manager won't care ..stuff" its a legal and binding contract, the same if you would have financed the vehicle with ..let's say, Chase..etc..
Believe me folks, I'm not trying to be a bad guy here, but it does bother me when people in my business are not telling a 100% of the truth, I'm just being straight up...if the vehicle is just dropped off, it will be the same has a Repo ..---- So much for that good credit..!
I hope this helps...
Terry.
PS - If it comes to the point like Alaska has mentioned..It's still a Repo..with a balance OWED.. Yes, you can pay that off--- but it will show as a repo with a -0- balance...Explain that to a mortgage co...
interest ((cost+residual)*mf) = $115.55
Payment = depreciation + Interest = 599.58
if mf = .00158 int = $119.33, if mf = .00163 int= $123.10
since your payment is around $607, i believe your dealer is using the .00163 mf.
Car man what should the mf be?
With the Celebration, Bose, and Cold Weather Pkg:
MSRP.$39,300.00/39 month lease/12K miles per year
-Sale Price-$37,100.00-$1888.00 over invoice
-54% Residual/$1000 down
-Illinois tax -8.75%/Chicago City tax-6% included in payment for a total price of $42,576.00
Lease Payment of $555.18 per month plus first month's payment up front.
Is there supposed to be tax on the whole amount or just the lease amount? The dealer is saying the whole amount but I didn't think that was to be the case.
Also, my Volvo has a trade-in amount listed on Edmunds of $19,363.00 and the dealer offered me $15,000.00. He said that's what the Volvo dealer said they would pay for the car. That's very low to me. He said it's because they have such attractive lease rates going on right now. Any help or information would be appreciated.
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I followed up and called Chase and was told by Chase that Sub Motor Credit doesn't exist as of 2mos ago, and that they took it over and they are one and the same as of the present. I was quoted rates by the dealer from Chase and not Sub Motor Credit and I was given .18. Why would I not be told about the lower rate?
Tx.
Thanks.
In case I can't get the deal I want on a Jetta GL or Civic LX, I'm looking
into a Corolla LE as a back up. Can you provide the MF and Residual
for both 2 yr and 3 yr leases, each with 15K miles/yr. If you know of
rebates that can be applied and if there are any acquisition costs that
info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Car_Man
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