constantly dead battery, new 2016 Forester

Hi everyone-
I am hoping the Subaru experts can help me out on this. It's not for me- my Forester is now well over 50,000 miles and going strong. It has only needed routine maintenance and I have been very happy with it.
The problem is my wife's aunt's Forester. She bought it new just a couple of months ago. Apparently she seldom drives, and when she does it is usually for only a few miles. So the car will sit for several days or a week without being driven. When she goes to start it, it won't turn over. AAA has come out more than once, jumps it to get it going, and tells her she needs a new battery. She has taken it to two Subaru dealerships and both have told her the battery is fine but she needs to drive the car more- all the electronics drain the battery even when it just sits. They say either drive it more or put it on a trickle charger.
I haven't seen this car, but it sounds like it is loaded with electronics- just about everything you can put on a Subie. Apparently it has a smallish battery and there is no option for a larger battery.
Does it sound legitimate that a new car would be having these kinds of problems? The battery in my Forester went over 5 years before I needed to replace it, and I certainly would not have been concerned about a dead battery if I let it sit for a week. To me it seems like any car with a new battery should crank just fine, even if it doesn't get driven for a few weeks. If the battery is fine like the dealership says, would it really drain that fast? Any ideas?
I am hoping the Subaru experts can help me out on this. It's not for me- my Forester is now well over 50,000 miles and going strong. It has only needed routine maintenance and I have been very happy with it.
The problem is my wife's aunt's Forester. She bought it new just a couple of months ago. Apparently she seldom drives, and when she does it is usually for only a few miles. So the car will sit for several days or a week without being driven. When she goes to start it, it won't turn over. AAA has come out more than once, jumps it to get it going, and tells her she needs a new battery. She has taken it to two Subaru dealerships and both have told her the battery is fine but she needs to drive the car more- all the electronics drain the battery even when it just sits. They say either drive it more or put it on a trickle charger.
I haven't seen this car, but it sounds like it is loaded with electronics- just about everything you can put on a Subie. Apparently it has a smallish battery and there is no option for a larger battery.
Does it sound legitimate that a new car would be having these kinds of problems? The battery in my Forester went over 5 years before I needed to replace it, and I certainly would not have been concerned about a dead battery if I let it sit for a week. To me it seems like any car with a new battery should crank just fine, even if it doesn't get driven for a few weeks. If the battery is fine like the dealership says, would it really drain that fast? Any ideas?
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But when it's not sitting, it is usually driven for 60 miles each weekday.
Since the new battery was installed she has not had any problems. I am glad she isn't having problems, but I'm not sure what to think about that solution. If the problem is some kind of parasitic drain, it seems like even a bigger battery will discharge when the car is sitting- it will just take a few more days before it won't crank.
Anyway, that's where things stand.
I had a 2002 Forester that would sit in the garage sometimes for two weeks at a time and never had a problem with the battery depleting. My friends do not drive on a daily basis and their cars start up ok. Very disappointed in Subaru's handling of this problem. Their solution is for me to trade in my 2015and purchase a 2017 Forester which will cost more out-of-pocket money. What guarantee would I have that the 2017's don't have the same battery problem? I am retired and do not want to extend my car payments another two years. If the dealer does not come up with an acceptable offer, I will be contacting the State Attorney's Office to see what recourse I have.
GOOD LUCK TO ALL. Hope your issues will be resolved to your satisfaction quicker than mine.
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I just completed an analysis of my 2016 Forester, wanted to share my findings and this looked to be as good a place as any to do so.
When I initially hooked up the amp meter, I found it took roughly a minute for the computers to go to sleep, and current draw stepped its way down from about 300ma to a baseline of about 41ma.
I say baseline, as there were frequent deviations up to 58 or 60ma, and occasional blips up to 70, 80, even 85ma.
I set my meter on max hold and waited for a big one, like I was catfishing. While all the erratic change in load was disturbing, I wasn't convinced it was enough to drain the battery in just a few days, as experienced last winter.
Eventually, I got a bite- 120ma on my max hold, but I had no idea how long the duration was, so back to max hold.
Long story short, a pattern develops of these higher level draws once an hour. I assume this is the OnStar or whatever it's called, checking in with the mothership.
I then proceed pulling fuses to see who the contributors are.
In the panel under the hood, pulling the "1G KEY" 40A fuse (note the cover diagram depicts this as a 60A glow plug fuse for diesel models, then mentions the 40A for non_diesels) drops current draw down to a steady 9ma.
Further investigation shows this fuse to be the stock security system and the remote start that the dealer had installed by a 3rd party when I bought it. Deactivating the security system calmed some of the deviations, but baseline was still unchanged.
Unfortunately, it is configured such that the vehicle will not start (remotely or with the key) if this fuse is out.
I now have enough info that I'm ready to go see the dealership, but I'm pretty sure they will say there's nothing they can do other than uninstall as that's normal draw for the auto-start.
I'm pretty sure it's true too, as I reduced draw on my 2009 Civic from 50ma to 7ma by pulling the fuse on the aftermarket auto-start. Luckily it wasn't wired to also disable my vehicle when it loses power!
Starting to think my solution is a battery tender to compensate for the draw. If the car will sit for more than a few days where I can't plug it in, like at the airport, I'll just pull the fuse when I park.
My opinion of auto-start is pretty low at this point. Doesn't do much good if it kills the battery waiting to start your car.
I'm not totally convinced yet this is all of my problem either. I do drive short distances, so state of charge is likely not well maintained, but I still have a hard time seeing how an average
I will be doing more testing this winter if I have an opportunity to let it sit for a few days when the temps go south.
Initialization of power window
If the vehicle’s battery is disconnected due
to situations such as battery or fuse
replacement, the following functions are
deactivated.
. One-touch auto up/down function
. Anti-entrapment function (driver’s and
front passenger’s windows)
Initialize the power window in the following
procedure to reactivate such functions.
1. Close the driver’s door.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON”
position.
3. Open the driver’s side window halfway
by pushing down the power window
switch.
4. Pull up the power window switch and
close the window completely. Continue
pulling up the switch for approximately 1
second after the window is closed completely.
If the front passenger’s window is
equipped with the auto-up/down function,
it is necessary to repeat the same
initialization procedure on that window
switch.
I left the car sit for two days which I have done before. The excuse I've read to drive more is nuts. Subaru should fix this issue or alert consumers before they buy it. My car turned two a week ago, I had bought it new. 2 years seems crazy to me
or a battery to die in a brand new car.
If they don't fix this issue this maybe a class action case or at least a call to the FTC and BBb.. Hopefully they just fix the issue.. I like my car and was planning on another in the future.
I'm considering adding a Lemon shaped banner 'Subaru Battery Tender' with a solar panel to the roof.
In my opinion, this is an electrical design flaw and probably could be resolved by modifying the on-board management by turning off more 'parasite drain' components.
I suggest new buyers research their states Lemon Laws for action.
Colorado Lemon Law: https://colorado.gov/pacific/sites/default/files/DR%202440.pdf
You can read many scenarios and theories in this post where other owners are experiencing similar symptoms. IMHO, I believe its a Subaru electrical slow-drain design flaw, too many devices staying in standby mode Vs sleep. The best solutions I came up with is to connect a permanent battery tender with quick connect. Attach the quick connect to battery and run it out the front hood or grill. When the car is not in operation and I know it will sit longer than 2 days, I connect the tender.
Another consume protection option is to research your states 'Lemon Law' and take action. Otherwise the dealer is going to keep sending you on rock fetches.
Good luck!
When the weather get better I am going to hook up an amp meter and start pulling fuses until I see and drop in draw current. I had a similar problem with my 2009 Acura RDX around 6th year of ownership, it turned out to the bluetooth module was bad drawing excessive current when the car was off.
I am thinking the eyesight system is at fault.
Subaru didn't implement auto shutdown/sleep of electrical system until 2017 from what I can gather. My 2017 Ford Expediton, 2009 Acura RDX and 2008 Chevy Trailblazer SS all shutdown after 15-20 minutes