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(Good info though 8-)
It is getting annoying because it happens a couple times a day, but is very inconsistent. I am worried that it is something serious and would like to find out what is causing it before my warranty runs out.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
I am extremely fed up with it. I have had it into the dealership for this "issue" 4+ times and nothing has come of it. They always had some BS answer like, "it's with in specs" or "we found nothing wrong with the code". I then have to be the annoying customer, and I usually leave feeling that I received sub-par service and very frustrated! I feel that they are pushing off the problem because they will not make any money fixing it (not an uncommon thing for dealers to do).
This is my second Jetta and I thought I would be VW owner for life. But this baby has been nothing but annoying little problems and has made this be the last VW of my life.
I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem and has gotten an answer as to what is causing it or how to fix it. Please, please reply with info!
Thanks,
Jerked Around in Portland.
:confuse:
Mike
Personally, I have a BLOCK HEATER on all of my automobiles and they are plugged into a timer which turns on a couple hours before I head out to work. It is nice to have INSTANT HEAT from the heater when it is -20F outside.
As for the glowplug harness, the connectors are KNOWN to get some corrosion on them because they have to handle so much current. There are some simple ways to help prevent issues.
Actually, it sounds as if your dealership is also overcharging you. I asked my dealership up-front if they charge for "computer fees" and I was told that they do not practice that method of charging the customers. They charge if it is FIXED... not for hooking up to their computer.
In fact, I have taken in a printout from my VAGCOM that showed a problem... and they gladly replaced parts under warantee based on that printout.
I know it is easy to blame the vehicle... but I suspect that if your dealership had fixed it right the first time,(for half the cost) you would not consider it such a big deal.
It also has always done the "jerks ahead" thing (that many others are reporting)since I purchased it. The RPMS go higher, and it seems like it's almost slipping a gear around 30km and 50km's again. Again, it's so intermittent that chances are if I brought it in, it wouldn't happen for the tech's to experience. Help!?
With that said, You seem to be describing the symptoms of a cylinder not firing. (running on 3 cylinders) I would first suspect leaky sparkplug wires to cause what you are describing. If new sparkplug wires do not help, try new sparkplugs.
After that, the order of items I would check are;
1)ignitor coil
2)Fuel filter
3)fuel injectors
the locks are not working properly, excuse me, they are indeed working properly, just not from the drivers side door/keyhole.
the key goes in, turns properly, its just the locks dont move up or down, nothing happens when i turn the key.
i can open it from the passenger side, but not the drivers side.
is the the key sensor probably?
can anyone tell me exactly where the sensor is, and where is the best [low price] to purchase these replacement parts?
thanks
marc
P.S. My car was fine until the manufacturer's warranty expired at 50,000 miles.
i have the exact same problem. i have a VW JEtta 2000 1.8 T
the car jerks forward sometimes while driving, a lot when its cold outside.
have you managed to discover what the problem is ? do i need to replace the transmission. please any help would be useful. thanks afshad@nsm.uh.edu
If you know of a "trick" that would help the rest of us with this task that would make it an "easy job"... please enlighten us.
Driving to Philadelphia on 95, we merged into the flow of traffic. Once in the left lane and doing about 70MPH, the car made a loud CLUNK noise, my RPM's went way up, and the car essentially shut off in the left lane. Thankfully my hazards still worked - but the power steering was gone and it took all my strength to wrench the car over to the shoulder before almost being pummelled by an 18 wheeler behind me.
I had it towed to the dealership and they said it was a blown starter coil. I spoke to the technician myself and he said that he'd never seen anything like it. It literally exploded and melted over itself. He said he's seen the coils go before, but NEVER on a car as new as mine was w/ such low mileage (25,000 or so at the time). Red flag? Maybe.
After that repair is when the transmission jolting started. I work in a small town so my commute to work keeps my rpm's between 2K and 3K, and that's where all the slipping and jolting goes on. It's terrifying, especially when trying to merge onto the highway. It doesn't accellerate fast enough, and when it gets up there, it feels like it slips a gear. Took it back to the dealership and they found "nothing wrong with the car." They suggested that it was the way I was driving that was causing the problem. Um, I'm sorry, I didn't know that driving the 25MPH speed limit of the town I work in was going to damage my car. I even took a ride w/ the technician and it didn't do what I was describing. I thought maybe I was just paranoid after the new year's incident.
Well, it's April now, and the car has about 40,000 miles on it, and the transmission is still doing this jolting and slipping. I was floored to find that this is going on with so many people's Jettas and was angered that all the responses from the dealers are all the same: "cannot replicate the problem." Has anyone had ANY kind of luck or made any sort of headway with this?
My dealership has had my car all weekend. The rep just called and told me they drove it 53 miles and never had ONE problem. I have it DAILY and they had it for three days w/ nothing? Is this some kind of coverup?
If anyone has had a similar experience, PLEASE, email me. At this point after reading all these sob stories I am considering unloading the car and getting myself a Honda. I can't afford to lose this much money on a car but I also don't want to die in a horrific accident. Advice appreciated!!!
Michelle in NJ
Other thing is, I will have my car's interior detailed, mostly the ceiling part because it's full of dust/oil prints from the mechanics who installed the glass. Will this cause it to be saggy after a while? if it does, is there any replacement for it?
So sorry it's long and thank you all in advanced.
Any comments will be appreciated
I would suggest you to get a Japanese car instead. It will cost you more as you need to sell this one and purchase a new car, but it's worth your life.
It's too bad that I am financing this car now, but once I paid it off, I will for sure switch back to Honda or Toyota. I had a Honda before, and it never gave me any problems. Very easy to maintenance.
Then, grab the ends of the paper with your hands and "work" it all around the perimator of the doorseal. You should be able to feel any area where the seal is not "squeezing" the paper with enough force to make a good seal.
=====
As for that "tapping" sound you are hearing, it is most likely the airpump that is part of the EVAP diagnostic tests.
It also may be the FUELPUMP you are hearing (it sounds more like a hummmm from inside the fuel tank)
The battery has died in my remote key for my 2006 Jetta..how do I access and replace it?..can't find any help in my owners manual
Thank you,
Gram60
In any case, here is a VIDEO showing how to access the battery in the keyfob.
into the bumper of the car to fix the "carmax" plate onto the bumper.
I have not talked to them about it yet because I'm not sure what is the right thing to do to fix it (I want to make sure it doesn't get patched up in a way to
cause more problems later [rust, etc.]). Cosmetically it doesn't bother me.
I'm also willing to just fix the problem myself if anyone has advice.
Thanks!
Janice
Did they ever fixed the Jolting Problem you had in your car?
My car had the same problem you had. Just recently, after a simple Synthetic oil chage, the tranmission got a hole on the bottom. So, after they change it i wonder if the jolting will go away with a new transmission and conclude this jolting a tranmission issue. If so, i am sure a lot of peple with the same issue will be interested to know.
I will post my results soon, in the mean time let me know if your jolting issue is gone please.
Thanks,
Betoven
I suggest you use a dry wall patch material. No kidding, i used the same for the same porpuse and the holes are gone. But i also had to smooth out the outer of the whole caused by the drilling. Finally, apply some white paint (or whatever color you need) patch up available at pep boys or any autoparts.
Otherwise, autodetailing will do for a couple hundred bucks.
I have the same problem on my GTI 2001 VR6 model and still could not figure out how to fix it ?
Did you find a fix to it ?
Hope I dont have to explain why using a water-soluable material to patch a hole in your car is a bad idea.
I dont see what the problem is here anyway... dont you need to use those holes to install your front license plate?
The problem I have happens on very few occassions (usually when I've turned on and off my car various times). When I turn the key it hesitates and doesn't turn on, once I press the gas pedal it starts making deep, low gurgling noises and then a cloud of smoke comes out of the back. We are starting to think it has something to do with the fuel not getting to the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts? Please?!
I turn the key all of the electronics come on but it doesn't even try to start. I just keep turning the key on and off until it starts. Sometimes it takes a dozen or more attempts. I've resorted to parking facing down hill so I can roll it just in case.
If the air temp is not too high, it will start just fine.
I described this to the the service department at the dealer and to a local mechanic and they looked at me like I was from Mars.
I got so frustrated that i requested the VW service manager to ride with me, and experience what i was experiencing. He "felt" it too, but he said to keep on driving it and if it gets worse, then i should take it back into the shop.
I reported the problem again right after my car was out of the manufacturer's warranty, and this time VW came back and said that the tranny was showing signs of wear and tear. How convenient that the tranny is now "worn off" outside of the manufacturer's warranty??? All along, they could not diagnose the problem, and requested that i drive it until it worsened... until now??
To make the long story short, Autoshield, the extended warranty company, refused to repair the tranny as there was no "physical damage". Well go figure how there could be any physical damage on a 4 year old car. After my wife and I made repeated attempts to the dealer and yelled on top of our heads, and even threatened to file a lawsuit with the dealer and VW Canada, citing Negligence, is when VW agreed to replace the tranny with a new one. At NO COST to myself, despite them initially wanting the cost of this tranny to be split 3-ways; myself, the dealer, and VW Canada.