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Comments
Thanks for your help!!
Now I want to use Mobile1 for Camry's transmission, dealer wants $80 to flush them and I bring my own Mobile1. Not that I do not trust the dealer, I am thinking changing the trans oil by myself execpt I can't flush them out(I think about 50 % in the tranny) so there will be mixture of regular oil and syn oil. Is mixing them could cause any problems now or later?
Thanks
So, granted you only get 50% of the fluid with a drain and fill but it is much cheaper to do this and say change it again earlier then to get it flushed.
sinjin_dog..I would also go for the fill and drain yourself. For 3 changes you get in the 90% range. Keep good track of what you drain each time..to make it easier.
- Flashpoint
- Pourpoint
- TBN
- Viscosity Index
- Boundary Lubrication Shear Tolerance
Joe Sixpack doesn't seemingly want to understand these numbers, which are revealed by every synthetic maker. To compound the problem, most dino oil makers WILL NOT reveal these numbers.
Even if they did, they are very much lower than synthetic oil!!! This is almost a no brainer in that sense.
posts the specs for it's dino oil.
No not a local promotion! Out here in silicon valley wallymart, I believe I paid 16.88.
What you usually get is the more-or-less conventional 'wisdom' which is more old wives tales than it is science.
I was in one store two months or so ago looking for 5W20 oil and 3 out of 3 clerks had never heard of it. >:^O
For those of you who think that if 5W20 is good then 5W30 is better and 5W50 is the cat's meow, just remember they use a polmer goo like STP oil treatment to pump up the thinner oil and get it to act like a thicker oil when it gets heated up. The problem is that this polymer stuff is the oil's weak link. The heat and high-RPMs break this stuff down rather quickly and it forms sludge and varnish in your motor. Avoid extreme spread oils like 0W30, 0W40, 5W40, 5W50 and 10W40 in your motor.
Use a synthetic 10W30 for most conditions as they have none of this viscosity improver junk ... they don't need it.
If you car is newer and/or you drive in severe cold (temps often below 0F) use 5W30.
It's nice to see people here have adopted their own versions of my original emoticon ==> >:^)
--- Bror Jace
http://www.salemboysauto.com
who's heard in the Phoenix and St. Louis markets sums up viscosity this way (excerpted from one of his faq's):
"I know that putting a thinner oil in your car goes against everything you have been taught. Most of us cringe at the thought of putting a 5W-30 in our engine. First, you must understand what motor oil is supposed to do.
1. Oil is used to provide lubrication between two moving parts to reduce wear. Most internal engine tolerances are measured in thousands of an inch and many tolerances are no thicker than a human hair. So, if you wanted to fill an opening with oil that was no thicker than a human hair, which would do a better job, peanut butter or sewing machine oil?
2. Oil is used to gather or absorb heat from the internal engine parts and carry it away. Let's say two pieces of metal are rubbing against one another at say...50 times a second or 60 MPH. If we want to flush this joint with oil and keep a continuous stream of oil running through and over it to gather the heat generated and carry it away, would you use peanut butter or sewing machine oil?
3. Oil is also used to flush the metal particles from the bearings of your engine. This one should be easy...peanut butter or sewing machine oil?
4. 90-95% of all mechanical engine wear occurs in the first 10 seconds of a cold engine start up. That initial cold start wear can equal hundreds of miles of warm engine wear.
So.... you it's your choice, peanut butter or sewing machine oil?"
Should I consider switching to synthetic? If so, should I begin with a blend (maybe 1 qt. Mobil 1 with the next oil change)?
I am a little concerned about leaks, because I converted a motorcycle this way and developed a leak at the valve cover gasket. Replaced the gasket (expensive) and still use a blended oil (Golden Spectro). Transmission shifting became smoother and the engine runs quieter.
I like Singer machine oil. Is it gooder for yer injun?
:^]
Thanks
I'd recommend whatever Redline sells in that weight ... but you knew that already. >;^}
--- Bror Jace
As I understand it, the sulphur part of GL5 specs is molybdenum disulfide, which is a high pressure additive. It keeps the metal surfaces off one another by providing heavy duty film strength to fill the gaps. As I mentioned previously, I used Klotz Flex Drive 90 wt. in the differential of a Mitsubishi/Plymouth Sapporo. It is a GL5 spec synthetic product that sells for $9.70 per quart. I currently run it in the drive hub of my 1999 Honda Valkyrie.
I used to own a '98 Olds Intrigue with the 3800 pushrod engine. Ran for 80,000 miles purring like a kitten (until it got totalled) using regular oil. 10w30.
I now have an '01 Intrigue with the 3.5L Twin-cam engine. GM says that 5W30 is recommended (although they don't frown on normal 10w30).
SO my question is: Why would they recommend a different oil for the 3.5? I know it's a different engine but my theory is because it's a higher revving engine. How that relates to the thickness of oil is what I guess I'm asking.
Also, because of the heat generated in twin-cams, do you highly recommend synthetic oil for this reason or simply because it's "better" than regular oil?
"Also, because of the heat generated in twin-cams, do you highly recommend synthetic oil for this reason or simply because it's "better" than regular oil? "
yes to both of those questions.
The real answer to your question is that 5w-30 was chosen for its energy saving ability. When you use synthetic in that weight or 10w-30 you are getting superior lubrication. While unscientific, I get between .25-.5 mpg less with 10w-30 than with 5w-30.
Help?
Would it not be safe to conclude that synthetics do not abide by the same exact rule of thumb regarding the api designation for flowablity largely due to the fact syns properties exceed the api designation.
For example take 5w-30 petro will flow at (not exactly sure) say -20 and 10w-30 flow at -10 degrees. Enter synthetics quite common that a 5w-30 syn flows at -60 and a 10w-30 syn -55 degrees, I fail to see similarities and undue concern over the weight class given syns surpass api designation by a very large margin.
The variance between 5w and 10w syns are neglegible you're still ahead of the game relevant to wear compared to api designations for petroleum.
Interestingly to note was checking Amsoil website to get specs on the oils flowablility characteristics, both 5w and the 10w (25,000 miles oil) will flow at -60 below zero, both will flow at this temperature.
Am I wrong in these conclusions then Please help
Anyway, twin cams also mean more reciprocating parts ... which means more moving parts in contact with each other which DOES generate more heat.
Yes, I believe the switch from the heavier weights to 5W30 was PRIMARILY for fuel economy reasons ... but there are also some extreme cold weather starting advantages as well.
It would be interesting to know if Exxon Superflow is a genuine PAO or a hydrocracked pretender. Anyone with a bottle and their 800 number wanna play 20 questions with their answer people?
>;^}
--- Bror Jace
http://www.exxon.com/exxon_lubes/superflo/frproducts.htm
Typical Inspections
The values shown here are representative of current production. Some are controlled by manufacturing specifications, while others are not. All may vary within modest ranges.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Superflo Synthetic
SAE Grade 5W-50 5W-30 10W-30
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
API Quality levels
SJ
SJ/EC SJ/EC
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viscosity:
cSt @ 100 °C 18.0 10.0 10.0
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cSt @ 40 °C 123.5 57.5 63.3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cP @ -20 °C — — 2300
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cP @ -25 °C 2510 2200 —
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MRV @ -35 °C, cP 13,260 7,900 —
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
@-30 C, cP —
— 7400
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viscosity Index
162
159 148
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Flash Point, °C (°F)
—
244 (471) 250 (482)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pour Point, °C (°F)
-48 (-54)
-54 (-62) -48 (-54)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gravity, °API
—
34.2 33.8
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HTMS Viscosity, cP
4.7
3.1 3.1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Energy Conserving
No
Yes Yes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ILSAC GF-2 Certified
No
Yes Yes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pennzoil and Quakere State are the same company now and their synthetics are completely different formulas ... one PAO and the other a juiced, hydrocracked mineral oil.
--- Bror Jace
I can hardly resist buying another 6 quarts every time I go to Target. I've got about 35 qts in the garage, and that will last our 2 vehicles quite a while, so lately I've been able to resist the temptation...
Also, re: low prices on synthetic oils-- the Wal-Mart SuperTech brand is $2.97 at my local stores.