Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Thanks!
Well, if it's a tight engine, and the drive is easy, i'd guess 10,000 miles is a-ok.
If the car smokes, the drive is all stop & go, i'd aim lower.
dave
175,000 miles on an engine is ok, but there's a lot more to it than just running. Does it still make full power and fly through emissions at 150,000? Does it stay cool when it's 110F out and you have the AC blasting in stop & go? Etc.
Never paying over $1 a quart simply doesn't impress me, as i think it's cheaper to pay $4 a quart and not have to do it every 3,000-4,000 miles, and maybe save a little gas along the way.
dave
That's a great little freudian slip.
You response still doesn't answer any of the points i raised. There's a big difference between good and good enough.
dave
The article "Aunt Minnie Test" (7K-5 year-no oil change) indicated that the inherent ability of syn to reduce deposits due to less oxidation, better additive package (TBN remained high), less wear inherent in synthetics was responsible. In a word-synthetics counterbalance the bad effects of short trip driving.
dave
bcolllision: I hate those horizontal filters. Engine runs too long without oil. You can't fill them first-Ford likes to do that. You may be better changing filters less often due to this. Will the FL-1A fit on that existing base? I assume not.
As I approach 20K the engine is running just a little rougher and when I check the oil it's dark and approaching black. I'll be doing another change shortly.
Is this supposed to happen? - I'm a little worried the Mobil 1 didn't make it into my van - am I just being paranoid or what?
IF that still happens after a few changes, then i'd worry.
My old saturn did that to mobil 1 because the valve guides were messed up.
dave
2. Mobil will clean up the gunk so your first change to syn will get darker quicker.
3. Did it require any oil additions during this period of time?? Cars where the oil gets darker quicker generally use more oil (in my experience)
4. Like dhanley says-give it a couple of changes
I will monitor color and consumption and anticipate changing according to warrantee rec.
Now if it black on the foil then ouch!
My cars remain relatively honey colored through 7,500 miles. Not that Amsoil is any better then MObil 1 just my cars that remain that way. Also, if you check when warm the oil is much clearer then when cold so the check should be consistent as to hot or cold when you do it.
CSANDSTE - yes, I'm well aware of the Sienna Sludge dance - I also have a 98 (28K) that I'm about to move to Mobil 1.
I've had no sludge symptoms in either Sienna,have changed oil at 3 - 4K (5k recommended in the manuals) and kept all receipts on the 2001 and most on the 1998 (since I started hearing about sludge) - PLUS ALL oil changes have been done by one of two Toyota Dealers (hey - I'm lazy!). With a family full of lawyers I hope I'm prepared to warranty wrestle with Toyota!
Yes, I've seen all the Sienna Sludge posts - what I don't understand is if it's prevelent and not caused by poor maintenance why the Feds haven't stepped in for a recall.
ADC100 -
1)Yes, I checked the oil right after the change (as always) - oil was clear and at the right level.
2) Makes sense to me - for the 2001 I've changed every 3K to break it in - if it has gunk after that - scary as I don't stress the engine when driving.
3)Oil level is fine - definitely not eating oil - just passed Connecticut emissions (as did the 98) with flying colors and mileage is rock solid at 24 mpg.
ARMDTM - I'll try that foil test tonight!
I think you guys are right - let's just wait a few changes.
Will changing my transmission oil to synthetic be of any benefit?
A person once posted on edmunds who had a celica. He ( said he ) put in mobil 1 at 5,000 miles and never changed it. He changed the filter every 5,000, lost a quart in the process, and added a fresh quart. Apparently engine was ok at 220,000 miles.
I'm not that brave! But i feel okay obeying my oil change light and doing the oil every 12-14K.
dave
Yes, I've noticed that Castrol Syntec has always been a very 'clean looking' oil both before and after their extensive reformulation in 1998. This is not necessarily a good thing as the oil may be light in the area of detergents/dispersents. So, deposits MAY be accumulating in somewhere deep inside your motor. When I switched to other oils afterwords, they seemed to darken quite quickly suggesting they were finding goo that the Castrol left in place. Of course, this is a perfectly anecdotal observation and not definitive. >;^)
Greg, I used Pennzoil nearly a year ago to clean out my car because they had just reformulated their dino oils and were heavy on dispersants. The oil looked a medium brown after 3 weeks when I dumped it and the filter.
Alex17, what kind of tranny do you have ... manual or automatic? If a stickshift, what weight does your owners manual call for?
--- Bror Jace
I would also switch the auto trans to Mobil 1. If it has a plug on the pan you probably change about half the oil at a time. 3 dtains gets you about 90% synthetic oil. I know that's expensive at 6 bucks a quart, but its less hassle and cheaper than dropping the pan.
During the guarantee period don't go beyond the normal service level interval.
Sure it may go longer, but it's not worth the potential monetary loss for a denied claim.
It is extremeley extremely rare that the failure to change oil would cause a catastrophic engine fialure. Usually premature wear but htat would nto show up until after the warranty is long gone.
Thanks guys,
Dave
"Mobil 1 exceeds API service ratings SJ/CF. Mobil 1 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 10W-30 also meet ILSAC GF-2 requirements. As an SJ/CF rated oil, Mobil 1 can be used wherever an API SH, SG, SF or SE oil is called for in the owner's manual. As a CF rated oil, Mobil 1 can also be used in diesel engines calling for a CD oil.
In addition, later in 2001, Mobil 1 will exceed the newest certification standards being implemented on that date – ILSAC GF-3 and API Service SL"
IMO Mobil1 is the the real deal and I see no reason to switch.
"Mobil Drive Clean Blend 5W-30 and Mobil Drive Clean Blend 10W-30 are recommended for gasoline fueled automobiles and light duty trucks requiring an API SL, SJ or SH product or ILSAC GF-3 (Starburst Certification Symbol). Also, these products meet the light-duty diesel engine requirements, API CF."
"Mobil Drive Clean Oil 5W-30 and Mobil Drive Clean Oil 10W-30 are recommended for gasoline fueled automobiles and light duty trucks requiring an API SL , SJ or SH product. They meet ILSAC GF-3 (Starburst Certification Symbol)."
As for customer service, Valvoline has Mobil beat seven ways to Sunday. That may or may not reflect the quality of their oil.
I'd feel a little safer going with Valvoline Synpower over Mobil 1 ... especially with Mobil 1 having less ZDDP in it.
--- Bror Jace
My questions are: Is the 0W-30, in fact, exclusively a synthetic weight or is dino oil available in that weight (I've haven't ever seen 0W-30 conventional oil)? And, what are the advantages or disadvantages of using Mobil 1 0W-40 as opposed to 0W-30?
I'm sorry if these questions have already been discussed before on this board. I haven't had the chance to scroll back through the old topics that you folks have already discussed on this forum. I'll try to do that when I have more time.
TIA
--'rocco
I think you are right. The only 0W30 oils I know about are all synthetic: Redline (racing only), Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Any other formula you are likely to run into will be a synthetic/dino blend of some sort, whether they advertise this fact or not.
Personally, I wouldn't go with a 0W40. The extreme spread between its cold-weather weight (0) and the operating temp weight (40) means this lightweight stuff is heavily pumped up with viscosity improving 'goo' which is fairly unstable and breaks down rather quickly ... especially under the high-stress, high-rpm operation one might enjoy while piloting a pocket rocket like the Audi TT.
When this 'viscosity improver' breaks down, some of it boils off through the PCV system while the rest forms sludge and hard deposits in your engine.
For hard use, I'd move up to a 5W30 or even a 10W30. The European oils are spec'd out the way they are largely because of politics. They want to see as little oil being used so they spec out a wide-spread synthetic oil that will give you hair-better fuel economy and then tell you to leave this unstable stuff in the motor for an extended time like 10-12,000 miles. Who cares if it is almost unheard of for them to get more than 100-150,000 miles from an engine?
While drain intervals of this length are possible, I'd start out with a more stable weight of oil like 10W30 instead of an extreme-spread formula.
--- Bror Jace
My preliminary conclusion is that the mobil picked up some gunk the other "synthetic" was leaving behind. So, i may be more aggressive with the oil change this time, to clean this stuff out, eg, not go 12,000 miles.
I guess the real test will be to change it again and see if is stays clear longer.
dave
If I may ask, what motivated you to change from BMW stock oil (Castrol?) to Mobil One?
I have been using Mobil One (5-30W, and/or 10-30W) on Toyota Lancruisers with 15,000 mile intervals. Consumption of oil has been roughly 1/4-1/2 qt at the 14,000 mile marker. Engine oil sludge has been a total non issue (one had app 250,000 miles, the other 128,000 miles). Also I have another one (94,000 miles) , that the valve covers are taken off for periodic valve adjustment and the mechanics are impressed that the tolerances are near factory spec. The rest have scheduled valve checks at the 60,000 mile marker, again near factory specs. Again, the engines are clean as a whistle.
If my conclusion about the mobil 1 picking up deposits is correct, then i guessed right. Of course, i suppose there are other possible conclusions. I do recall bjorace speculating that castrol may be low in detergents/dispersants.
Pretty soon after the oil change, i went on an 1800 mile road trip, if that makes any difference.
I also switched to the 15w50, and i have also seen a very slight decline in fuel efficency ( .1 to .2 mpg ) though there are other factors.. Season, altitude, and oxygenated gas among them.
dave
Your reasoning mirrors my own. I believe that Castrol's philosophy has been for a while to stress lubricants and other additives over dispersants/detergents.
There is some logic in this as a little sludge and goo hidden away in some corners is usually fairly harmless ... and an oil's primary job is to lubricate. The problem is that over time this sludge can build up ... and I believe that's what happened with my cars (an Integra and a Civic) as well as yours.
My problem is that when I switch to some other oil ... ANY oil other than Castrol Syntec ... it began to turn dirty almost immediately meaning that the amount of built-up sludge is bordering on severe and the Castrol oil (I've used Syntec since 1992-3) simply isn't doing its job in keeping the inside of the motor clean ... especially over the long run.
Once your motor has a build up of sludge, I think the only way to safely clean it is a series of short-interval oil changes ... or taking the motor apart which is just too extreme.
--- Bror Jace
Can 10W30 safely replace 5W30 without any long term affect? I saw a box of 10W30 (6 qrtz) for $21 at local Cosco and it's too good to pass up. Too bad Cosco doesn't carry 5W30.
Thanks.
....
You should have absolutely no problem either with the switch to synthetic or the switch to 10-30w. One thing, check your manual to verify the oil viscosity.
--'rocco