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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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http://www.smartrisk.ca/ContentDirector.aspx?tp=742&dd=11
Give it a try--seems to work....Richard
i am having the same rear suspension noise on my 2004 SE.
need to know what was the fix?..."the service advisor Jim told me they had to insert somethig and tighten it up"
WHAT DID THEY DO...i am going nuts with the "Thunking" also on Avalon..see message # 443.!
Don't they do ANY quality control and road testing to allow this to go ON and ON ..how many years do they need to fix it..or is their need a "expert suspension design engineer o????
Motor still hums/spins but probably not long enough to raise/lower the window fully.
I took off the inside panel and found that the cable to lift the window has come loose. I untracked the lower cable so at least I could manually close the window all the way.
Is it possible to reattach the loose cable (I can't see the back w/o removing the entire regulator assembly) OR do I just need to order a new regulator.
Thanks
Carl
what did "JIM" actually do to eliminate the rear suspension noise???
i have the same problum!!on my 2004 SE
lbi@ispwest.com
on my 2004 camry -SE
95 mile trip @ a steady speed of 65 mph
the actual MPG = approx. 24 mpg..
which is poor mpg for a 4 cylinder.
my 99 buick lesabre got a honest 28 mpg on the same tripwith the 2ND greatest push rod --3.8 6 cyl in America (except the chev small block)..
I believe it is caused by the computer chip telling the engine to "engine brake" and insert drag upon deceleration !!!
When I get off the asccelerator the engine brakes like dynamic braking..no car i ever had engine brakes like this one..
help..all you computer programers and experts on tuning...!!
MY Camry FE is alligned like so..
Camber= left front= -0.7d (Spec -1.5d)
right " = -0.9d (Spec -1.5d)
Caster= Left front = 2.7d (Spec 2.0d )
right " = 2.2d (Spec 2.2d )
Toe =left " =-0.04d (Spec-0.10d)
right " =-0.04d (Spec-0.10d)
cross camber 0.2d (Spec -0.8d)
cross caster 0.4d (Spec -0.8d)
total toe -0.08d (Spec -0.20d)
OK..??? how do these look ???
suggestions please or what is your opinion.???
took me whole afternoon, took apart everything, and drilled another hole for the wire on the regulator arm, and worked fine again.
it was fixable, but frustrated, easier to buy a new one and put it on instead.
However, the 3-liter six with that rare thing called a clutch is really OK
Most of the time I get 25-27 City and 30-33 HWY MPG......and gas prices (well, you all know.....)
Keep up the good work Toyota; I'm looking at a Scion coupe so the Solara won't get lonely......ez
A vehicle will pull toward the side with the least positive or most negative caster. Yours has 1/2 degree caster lead to the right.
Get it aligned to spec.
Thanks
It sounds like the first service included cleaning the intake plenum. An O2 sensor typically costs about $20. So that means that the dealer charged you $380 to install it and probably squirt some solvent into the intake plenum followed by a rag on a wire to clean things out. That seems pretty steep to me. I'm new to the Camry club, but I had an Isuzu pick-up that gave me the O2 sensor light at 75K miles. The dealer charged me $75 to reset. I could find no other way to reset it. There was nothing wrong with the sensor, the dealer stated that the light was tied to mileage and that the light would go off again at 150K miles. Perhaps this is a Camry circumstance too.
I'm not convinced that intake plenum cleaning is so important. Shops, especially dealers', seem to push this procedure with a degree of regularity. Next time, I'd just say, "No."
Your present problem, get yourself a second opinion from either another Toyota dealer or an independent Toyota specialist.
Good luck, these things can be a pain.
I don't have an answer, but the same problem. Once you get info on how to remove a door panel (front, I hope), would you mind responding to this with the solution? I'd be much obliged.
The biggest part of my problem is how to remove the door handle and bezel assembly.
Of course, if I find out the trick, I'll be sure to pass it on.
Good luck.
Please let us know how the Value Body replacement works out.
Then you can go to Discount Tire to purchase the brand for a small installation markup.
[www.tirerack.com]
- hank2
This box, if defectivem will usually disable the tail lights. It costs about $180 from Toyota dealers.
I went through all the wiring in the trunk but found nothing wrong. Anybody knows what would caue the brake lights to work sometimes and not at others?
Until someone gives me a good and cheap (!) solution, please stay well behind all Camries as sudden braking without brake lights can really mesh up your front ends!
I wrapped the bundle up tight with some tape to secure the wires. The brake lights now activate the way they should, and the yellow "bad light warning" on the dash board went off, at least for now!
Thanks for the help from a fellow Camry rider in Canada about the brake switch. For non-Camry riders you are welcomed to follow my old trusty Camry very closely to check on my brake lights anytime!
The car sometimes balks at accelerating.
It sporadic -- I saw it a few times when I was
with him recently...
Coming out of a gas station, nothing was happening...then all of a sudden the engine
starts to race near redline and the transmission
drops down (probably two gears). Also saw this
in traffic...
Toyota keeps saying bizarre things (it has to "learn" you, "turn off traction control", "this is the way the car works").
I've seen on Usenet a number of people have the
same problem (myself and several others consider
this a safety hazard).
He's very disgusted with this car, and is probably going to go to arbitration. I heard
about a TSB (I think 00803? about the transmission
reprogramming) and his dealer said it doesn't apply to his problem...
I'd like to know if others have seen this problem...
I have same problem in 2004 LE V6. Dealer says everthing is Okay. My Honda Civic had better acceleration.
I urge, all posters with this problem. Please take your cars to Toyota Dealers and pressurize them solve it.
Does anyone know how to bring this problem to the notice of Toyota ?
I believe if you floor the gas pedal, it would take more than 1 sec for the throttle to response (due to overshoot in closed loop control). If you apply the pedal gently, then loop should response faster (in 200 -500 ms).
Car drop 2 gears after Ist one on 3000 rmp and then rpm remains between 2000 and 2500 and car doesn't gain speed, however, if peddle is gently pressed then I could feel changing of gears and rpm stayed on or over 3K, however, this doesn't seems to solve the problem.
We are doing what is supposed to be done by the automatic transmission, hearing the engine sound and then
correcting depression on the paddle in a loop back.
This is a typical problem that sometimes causes avionics or weapon systems intermittent and unreliable. Intermittent or completely open electronic connections can be caused by long term exposure to temperature cycling, vibration, humidity etc...
This small brake light intermittent problem actually drove me crazy to the point where I was ready to throw the car away! It's not worth keeping an old car and taking the chance of being rear ended because of intermittent brake lights! This '89 Camry is still running strong after 250K miles of high-speed cruising (don't tell LAPD!) and 3 fender-bender accidents, with no other problems! It is a very reliable and handy utility car with fold down rear seats, which lets you haul objects longer than 8', basically anything that can be inserted through the fold down seats into the cockpit!
The way it goes, I think I may get 1 million miles out of this old Camry before I give it to my grandsons to bang around in!
I am glad I found and fixed this brake light problem permanently. It is safe to say that many other electronic problems with any car (Mercedez, BMW, Audi, Huyndai, Kia ... are said to be the worst) are most likely caused by intermittent or faulty connections in electronic modules or wiring harnesses.
I now have a good appreciation for and great synmpathy for people who have been complaining about electronic problems with their cars. My solution was quick and simple, which confirms Toyota's quality and reliability superior to many other upscale and very expensive brands!
After 200K miles without any elaborate tune up or fuel injector service, my 93 Camry no longer revs up on cold start. It stays at the low hot idle speed and more often than not, stalls out. The dealer says the cold start sensor, which is buried under the manifold, must be replaced. Parts and labor cost about $600!
Knowing the fuel injectors have never been serviced, I suspected the cold stall problem may be caused by dirty fuel injectors which do not inject enough gas into cylinders. I filled the tank with Shell's new 91 premium gas (with the alleged 5 detergents) and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. The cold start problem was immediately fixed half way through the tank! The car now revs up to 2000 RPM every morning and no longer stalls out. The car also accelerates better as the injectors now squirt far more fuel into the cylinders when needed!
This is a simple solution that saves me $600 from the dumb dealer and other potential problems as they may break a few other things (oops !!!! these always break on all Camries...) as they remove the manifold to replace the cold start sensor!
You don't have to take the fuel injector apart to clean it. In fact there are some serious risks of damaging or contaminating the injectors by taking them apart! A Mercedez' engineer told me this trick of cleaning fuel injectors with premium gas and cleaning additives. You could save yourselves some serious fuel injector service money by using cleaner additives every 30K miles!
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I am going to have 5000 miles service tomorrow on 12000 miles :
Oil change
Brakes adjustment
BG install kit(I don't know what this is)
I hope I see some improvement.
I bought a Camry in hopes that it would last a long time before needing work, but it looks like the reliability legend is not always true.
Since the warranty has expired, shouldn't this be covered under the emmissions warranty?
Any thoughts or suggestions?
These 2 anchoring tabs are on the upper and lower edges of the bezel, around the vertical center line. The bezel can be taken out by inserting a small screw driver into the horizontal edges between the bezel and the panel and bend the anchoring tabs AWAY from the door panel (or into the bezel's side). That will release the bezel.
Good luck.
That would immediately fix your itch for acceleration!
The tires wore evenly with rotation about every 20K miles, occasional pressure check and front-end aligments. They had no problems or flats during their entire lives!
When the treads were worn down to less than 1/8 inch, the car did not corner well. I had to slow down and carefully oversteer to keep the car to stay in tight turns like freeway ramps etc...That was when I had to buy another set of Michelins!
Of all the tires that I bought, Dunlop was the quietest but softest,lasting only 30K miles. Yokohama lasted 60K miles but produces the highest road noise with its stiff side walls. Goodyear's Metric series would wear unevenly and cup severely. This was a known problem for Goodyear, so the dealer offered to rotate the tires for free every 5000 miles to prevent uneven wear. I just threw away the tires after 20K miles since they were not worth the bad, noisy ride and the hassles!