Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Probably too late to point this out, but your new engine is, well, NEW (aka, "tight"). It's not broken-in yet - the sliding and rotational parts have to seat themselves to their mates and until that happens, your fuel mileage will not be optimum and starting may take a bit longer than you're used to with your former ride. Just follow your owner's manual concerning break-in and the rest will sort itself out without undue initial wear.
Had to laugh to myself - this is probably the first instance in my 44+ years of driving that I actually agree with a car salesman. Generally, your tires will run cooler, and therefore last longer, if you run the pressure several psi higher than recommended, but NEVER over the maximum cold pressure rating that's molded into the sidewall. If the owner's manual indicates a pressure differential between front and rear tires, do maintain that numeric differential for safety and handling reasons. So, for example, if your manual suggests 29 psi for the fronts, and 27 psi for the rears, you will help your tires live longer by running 32 psi for the fronts and 30 psi for the rears. (That's just an illustrative example - consult your owner's manual for Toyota's actual recommendation for the Camry and then adjust accordingly.) You probably won't notice much if any difference in ride quality over those additional 3 psi, but you will probably notice an improvement in how much better the car handles in accident avoidance maneuvering. Only make tire pressure adjustments when they're cold (less than a mile of driving before checking). At operating temperature, tire pressures may vary as much as 3 or 4 psi, perhaps even more across a long stretch of hot desert highway, over the cold pressures which are assumed in the owner's manual. NEVER check the tire pressure when they're fully warmed and let air out - the "elevated" measured pressure will return to normal all by itself as the tires cool down.
That's a hint that the 29 is set as a compromise. To get better handling and improved ability to withstand high temperatures, raising the pressure is prudent. After all, 75 mph is maximum legal limit in much of the West, including the hot desert regions. I just read that Texas plans to raise some limits to 80 mph in the western part of the state.
Personally, I've gone with 34 to 35 psi on my '97, '04, and '05 Camrys and have not had any abnormal tire wear or noticeable ride comfort deterioration.
It happens when I am driving down a slight incline, 40-50 miles per hour, with the accelerator only SLIGHTLY depressed. It feels as if the car is transitioning from slight acceleration to coasting, back and forth, and it stops when I lift my foot off the gas or press it down a little more. Is this just a normal occurrence, happening because I am just barely pressing the gas?
FYI--I used to have a cold start idle problem. The engine would race to 2000 RPM and stay there until the car warmed up, approx 7-8 minutes later. I removed the Idle Air Control module, noticed it was extremely gunked up, cleaned it, and it solved the problem.
Steve Edge
89 V6 wagon, 89 I-4 sedan
Sorry, Title is little wierd, that is just make things easy for google searchers.
Ya, actuallly, my 1993 Toyota camry starts most of the times but sometimes it doesn't. I heard long press is the solution but not for me. What happens when i start sometimes is, when the key reaches the extreme end, a 'TAK' sound comes and thats it, feels like the message is not being passed to the engine. Can anyone guess whats happening ?
Thanks
Steve Edge
TY!
Then now I heard squeak sound when I roll oven uneven surface or when I turn the key to start;
Anyone tell me if it is suspension problem?-how to fix or just ignore-I cannot find other things go wrong;
thanks a lot
a CV joint and axle could be an expensive repair, so broken boots need to be replaced very soon after detecting a problem.
But still try taking off one or more wheel covers first, just in case.
If the reservoir is leaking, replace it. It costs $50 from the Toyota dealer or $25-30 including shipping if you buy online. You can do the labor yourself.
Coolant level should be always above FULL whether the car is running or parked or whatever.
But, reservoir is not the only way for the coolant to leak. It's just a possibility.
Good luck,
Ajay
They come in either beige or gray. It seems that you have to brush the mat back and forth to make these marks go away,but come back as soon as somebody gets in the car and puts their feet on the mat. I have questioned my dealer service rep on this issue and he says they are all like that. It seem to me that such a beautiful car should have nice mats that dont need any special care. My Camry interior is gray and I live in the Midwest so Im going to buy high quality rubber ones that drain water and keep the carpeting clean and dry but I would like to know what other Camry owners do to care for their dirty looking mats!
A different dealer checked the hose and it was clear. Some water does drain out from the AC condenser drainage hose to the street. but I can still hear water sloshing around under the dash during braking/acceleration or turns, and the under carpet foam doesn't dry out. The sloshing sound is intermittent.
I haven't found the right solution yet.
If they do get dirty, they're easy to clean by thoroughly hosing them out with water and scrubbing (not too hard) with ordinary dishwashing (or carwash) detergent using a plastic-bristled brush. Then rinse thoroughly and hang them as vertically as possible in hot sun, and they will dry in a matter of hours. I don't advise doing this in the cooler months, as they may not dry out completely for a LONG time.
Check out: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm and plug the number 97V213000 into the "quick search" slot.
Make : TOYOTA Model : CAMRY Year : 1997
Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR CO., LTD.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 97V213000 Mfg's Report Date : NOV 19, 1997
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 289,326
The problem was that the ignition key could be removed when the transmission was not in Park. If the parking brake was not applied, then the car could roll if on an incline. It turned out my car was not involved in the recall because only Kentucky-built Camrys were affected (mine was built in Japan).
I'd march right back to the dealer and show them your problem. If necessary, try to do the same thing on ANOTHER Camry to show them it doesn't occur, in case their skulls are too thick!
You can drive the car safely; it's not going to change gears on its own (other than normal upshifting or downshifting). You still have to move the lever manually to shift into neutral, reverse, or Park.
you need to have it checked again, perhaps more thoroughly by someone else.
But, with the wheel off the rotors were visable. My front right rotor had scratches on it. Not concentric circles like a worn brake pad may make. But, scratches across the rotor which are not straight marks. A shop tech suggested that I replace the caliphers because the calipher may be hanging up. Does this make sense? Could the ticking noise be related to the rotor scratch since both were right front wheel related? Thanks in advance for your help.
you should know batterys don't last forever - depending upon climate, 4 years is pretty darn good (in your case, if you are the original owner and never replaced the battery before, it would be 7yrs of use which i think most would find to be excellent).
How deep are the scratches on the brake rotor? I would think a caliper hanging up would make a scraping or grinding noise. When you hit the brakes hard on a straight road, does the car pull to one side?
If you have any symptoms like these and the scratches are deep, I'd get a second opinion from another shop. If the scratches are minor and there are no other symptoms, I wouldn't worry about it.
I have the same problem, i'll like to know how you solved it!
Expecting your reply!
Thanks.
Pls reply me. Thanks.
:confuse:
I don't know how deep the scratches are. I should have run my hand over them. I'll do this later.
Next, Since I had a brake job a year ago my brakes squeeled and squeeked. New pads were put in May2005. They continue to make noise.
I'll get a second opinion.
Thanks.
thanks
You will likely need new valve stem seals, at a cost of about $800-$1,000. But if the car isn't consuming oil, runs fine otherwise, and still passes emissions tests (if you have them), then you can ignore the smoke for a long time. You really ought to check your oil more often however.
Yet again my 1995 Camry 2.2 LE has a problem. We recently (about 2 months ago) put a new radiator in it. Now with 171k it is leak power steering fluid to the point where it goes through a reservoir a day. What could this be and is it gonna be expensive. There is a leak that I saw one day while changing my breaks on the driver side. It was a drip but must have gotten worse. What is it???? THANKS IN ADVANCE and Happy Motoring!!!!! :sick:
I was going to have it towed to a shop and try to get a new or reconditioned alternator or regulator - otherwise have it taken away to the salvage yard.
It was running fine until this problem a few days ago. It is currently just parked. Time for a replacement car or can this be reasonably fixed?
Thanks alot.
No. The fact that there's enough power in the battery to operate the starter and crank the engine over indicates that the charging system's ok.
"It was running fine until this problem a few days ago. It is currently just parked. Time for a replacement car or can this be reasonably fixed?"
Depends on the cause. It needs fuel, compression, and spark to run. Have it diagnosed properly to determine which is missing and how much the repair would be.