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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    That's probably the backup light switch that works off your transmission linkage. Shouldn't be a big deal to check and or replace. Maybe a wire just fell off.
  • birkiebirkie Posts: 1
    Have a 1997 Camry XLE with 94000 mi. Engine hesitates randomly only on steady cruise above 40 mph. Hesitation stops with acceleration. Does not depend on cruise control setting. Tried new plugs, new fuel filter, gas tank solvent additives with no improvement. Any ideas?
  • camryv6camryv6 Posts: 42
    WHEN EVER I REVERSE MY CAR ONLY ONE REVERSE LIGHT COMES ON AND AFTER ABOUT 5 SEC LATER THE OTHER REVERSE LIGHT COMES ON. ANY ONE NO WHY IT DOES THAT...
  • Try new plug wires and the distributor rotor and housing. Also you might want to clean the throttle body (easy work, just disconnect the air hose and spray the joins with a can of cleaner). I have done these every 60k mi.
  • The shaking reminds me my 85' camry. When at the stop light, the steering wheel will shake. It is getting better for the 92'. I saw posts in the past saying this is normal and toyota knew this, but they didn't do anything to correct it. New cars have an anti-vibration device which can generate movement to offset the unwanted one.
  • can someone recommend a website with graphical instructions on replacing a mast/shaft for a power antena? i want to see how compilcated it is to fix myself

    thanks
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Did one a month ago, Remove mast, remove motor, remove 4 bolts to motor to get old plastic cable out of housing. reaasemble, switch inginition on so mast would be extended, feed in cable until it cannot go further, switch ignition off and cable should catch and reel in,

    Really a piece of cake
  • I got the above problem recently, and the light is off when turning the steering wheel to the straight. Anybody encountered the same problem or anybody knows the reason and how to fix it? Many thanks!
  • I have a 2000 Camry LE V6, with 21k trouble-free miles. Last week, after getting my oil changed at the dealer, I noticed a slight hesitation when I started the car. It doesn't happen every time and it's very slight, hardly noticeable. I just put in some fuel injection cleaner yesterday, it's been a while since I did that or used any gas treatment. Also, I had switched to midgrade gas for a while (89 octane). I don't know if that could be significant. I went back to premium (93 octane) a couple of weeks ago. Is this a potential problem? If so, what kind of problem? Should I have this checked out right away or am I being overly paranoid? Right now, I'm giving the fuel injection cleaner a chance to work, to see if that is the cause. I appreciate the feedback from the forum on this issue. I don't want to make an unnecessary trip to the dealer. Thanks so much.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Not much you can do until something really noticeable happens. Bringing it to a dealer etc. will be useless as they will find nothing except your wallet!
  • Good point. Hopefully, the fuel injection cleaner will take care of it. If it's something more than that, I hope I see it in plenty of time to have it fixed (under warranty).

    Thanks!

    SilverCrown
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If you are close to warranty expiration bring it in to get the disease documented in wirting, even if they cannot find it you have proof of a problem prior to expiration. If a ways off just wait and see.
  • I've still got a ways to go before my warranty is up, so I've got some time to wait and see what happens.

    Thanks for the tip, armtdm!

    SilverCrown
  • yrmacyrmac Posts: 134
    Three months ago, my '95 Camry suddenly lost the electrical power supply to all my Power Windows and power door locks. I changed the fuse for these units and they worked for few days. The same thing happened again after three days. Took the Camry to a Toyota dealer and indicated to the service personnel the problems. I also mentioned to the service personnel that I had changed the fuse once(The guy even wrote this down on the service request). Amazingly, after 3 hours, the dealer phoned me and told me that they had located the problem and it was the 30amp fuse!!! To my surprise, when I phoned back the service personnel and told him that it was not the problem since I already changed that 30 amp fuse, he indicated right away that I was right. According to him, the fuse blew again and they are again trying to locate the problem. This was after they spent three hours trying to figure out what the problem was. To make this short, after 6 hours of diagnosting the problem, they phoned me back and told me that the main power relay for these equipments was shot and has to be replaced together with my driver side power window motor that according to him was also shot. I mentioned to him that driver side power window motor was working before and main power relay is probably shot by now since they've changed the fuse again. At the end, I had to pay $1,550.00 for all these work and sadly, just last week my power windows and power door locks are not working again...HELP! Any ideas?
  • mknmkn Posts: 35
    Sorry about having to repeat the question yet again but I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me as to which tires might be the most optimal for my 98 Camry LE. There is considerable snow and ice in the winter here but this place is not flat country, which is the worst problem. What tires would be optimal if I am NOT exclusively looking at winter tires? Any recommendations? There is just too much info on Tirerack. com that it is difficult to home in on the right one. Thanks again.
  • I work for Toyota and can tell you that the reason you car did not shift into 4th on cold days was not due to a worn transmission. The transmission is designed by Toyota that was to warm the engine up faster and reduce harmful emissions from a cold engine and cataletic converter! That is why all your friends had this problem" also!!
  • lugwrenchlugwrench Posts: 213
    I recommend the Michelin X-Ones for your Camry. Consumer Reports just had an article about them and rated them the top grade for premium tires. Have them on my Camry as well as my Accord.

    Best tires I have ever owned and also the best tread wear warranty. They grip the road like no other tire. They are well worth the money.
  • mknmkn Posts: 35
    Thanks... Do you know how they handle in ice and snow? Also, what are the specs of your tires and wheels? Thanks.
  • Our '98 Toyota Camry LE 4cyl 2.2liter has a problem where the gas pedal sticks. It only happens when the car is cold and in gear. Then when it will finally go I've pressed it so hard it jumps. Any thoughts? Thanks from carolinacamry.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    Does any oil filter fit the 4 cyl Camry that is bigger than the stock one?
  • 76307630 Posts: 5
    My Daughter's '93 Camry, 4 cyl, Auto, 170K miles stalls some in traffic. Also check engine light comes on some. Dealer said did not know what caused this recommended de-carboning the engine, new rotor, cap, wires, plugs(platinum) air filter- We did all but the de-carbon- easy and inexpensive- - I seem to remember a boot on one of our cars that got a hole in it that might have caused similar probs- something about computer and air/fuel ratio gone haywire. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • lap2lap2 Posts: 2
    i have 99 camry v6. Check engine light suddendly went on, what is the problem? appreciate your feed back. thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The problem is that the ECM has detected a fault in one of it's monitored systems/circuits, turned on the check engine light and stored a diagnostic trouble code. Your vehicle is OBD II compliant and a scan tool will be needed to retrieve the trouble codes. Btw, one common cause is a loose gas cap.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I have a 92 Camry V6 with same problem with gas pedal. Been with me for a long long time now, have no concept of what it is, cables under the hood seem clean etc, but the pedal just seems to be glued in place at times and then you push it and you are off to a jump start!
  • I have fixed this problem before in a 91 camry V6. The accelerator cable is not defective; however, the problem is at the end of the TV(throtle valve) cable inside the transmission housing that cause it to stick. The TV cable is connected to the same pulley where the accelerator cable is connected. It is hard to describe the solution without a picture but it is worth a shot. First, open the bottom transmission pan. Next, follow the TV cable into the transmission housing and it will be connected to a somewhat circular shape disk. There is metal rod that rub along the outer edge of the disk thus moving in and out according to the shape of the disk cause by the gas pedal movement. The problem is where rod meet the circular disk. At the end of the rod is a small roller bearing (size of a dime) that is twisted 90 degree thus rubbing instead of rolling the circular disk, thereby, causing the accelerator cable to stick. The roller should be rolling along the outer edge of the circular disk. Use a flashlight and look at that small pocket where the rod meet this disk and you will see what I mean. Anyway, if you have small hand, just reach inside and twist the small roller 90 degree so that it can roll around the circular disk. Good luck.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Is that what you are saying, means changing fluid etc???
  • Oh, by the way, do you understand the problem? The reason it sticks is because the roller get stuck at initial position of the odd circular shape. At this position, it is like a large "S" shape and the roller starts a top right side of the "S" shape and rolls down and around the "S" shape so if the roller is lying flat like flat on a table so it can not roll. Therefore, it get stuck inside the top half of the "S". Get it?
  • loyolaloyola Posts: 26
    had the same problem a long time ago with my 92 Camry v6. Happens only at the first time of the day you step on the gas even when not in gear.

    All I did was spray the throttle lever with WD-40 while cycling it manually. Its the black thingy that is attached to the cable end which controls the opening/closing of the throttle as you step on the gas pedal. You don't need to have the engine running.

    I don't recall a TV cable inside the transmission. Are you talking about the shift cable? We are talking about the GAS PEDAL not the SHIFTING LEVER, do you understand?

    Hope this helps, it worked for me and did only once!
  • aiyeeaiyee Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Camry. Someone just ripped off the two mirror pieces off my car, leaving the housing intact. I thought it would be a simple thing to replace; go to the dealer, get the replacement glass and pop it back in. Needless to say, they don't sell just the mirror pieces for the US built Camrys. I have to purchase the whole unit which cost anywhere from $150 - $200 each, not including labor to install it. Any suggestions? Does anyone know of any aftermarket fixes? (The mirror pieces for the Japanese built Camry's don't fit the US built ones.)

    thanks
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If only $50 get the dealer to do it and submit to insurance company for a vandalism claim which does not go against your experience rating.
  • Wow, lots of great info on this site. Thanks to all who participate. I've got a question - the remote for our car is different from the one in the owners manual. It has the Toyota logo on it and has two buttons situated with one above the other. I can't figure out what the bottom button does...the top button locks/unlocks the doors and controls the alarm. Anyone have a clue?
  • Is the 1999 toyota le v6 enginea NON interferance or an interferanceengine.[relative to timing belt breaking]? Thanks:
  • parnolaparnola Posts: 141
    The bottom button should open the trunk when the car is disarmed
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Well, I have the 92 V6 and I still don't know. I always thought these were interference engines yet most people on this board will say not, non interference.

    Dealers seem to differ as well. Seems to be a shell game.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    Nearly all Toy engines are non-interference. Landcruiser/Tundra V8 is the only interference state side I'm aware of. I know of a few folks who lost belts and they just needed a tow and new belt.

    As for the sticky accelerator: easiest thing to try is cleaning the throttle body. Pull the air filter housing and pipe leading upto the intake. The throttle plate opens and closes inside the throttle body, and they get a sticky black soot on them. Makes it stick just every so slightly, but running back through a cable makes it very noticable to your foot! If it's black inside, get some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush and clean it up. Should be good for 30K or so. This is the absolute first thing to check for the problem you described. Very common.

    Good luck, did I mention we traded our 92 V6 Camry? Hadn't talked to you in awhile. Later!
  • This is the third time I am bringing my Camry 2000 V6 back for the same problem. I was in last week and I am not sure the mechanic knew what the problen was. When I came in and picked the car up after they kept it for two days. The work order states “Feels vibration from steering wheel since last performed TSB for cruise control accel cable. Test drive and report. Reposition the cruise control cable". It is supposed to be the gas pedal vibrating instead. The mechanic must have test driven the car less than a mile because the mileage in and out is the same as when I dropped the car off. They changed the wording on the invoice to “gas pedal” from “steering wheel” after I noticed that when I picked up the car.

    Ever since Elmhurst Toyota performed the cruise control recall, the rear top valve cover gasket replacement, and the steering wheel pump replacement at the same time, sometime last year, the gas pedal vibrates like an electric shaver especially when cruising at any speed 35-65 miles/hr. It is most noticeable on the expressway after 20 minute cruising, and it would numb my feet after awhile. It gets to the point that I have to use the cruise control whenever I can to get away from my gas pedal. Other than the expressway, it is very noticeable in city driving as well, if you drive the car for awhile.

    I changed my sitting position and tried driving with my left foot. It feels the same way. My wife also feels the same way after a 30 minute highway trip, her feet get tired too.

    I feel like I rest my feet on the engine block when cruising.

    It is more noticeable, if you set the cruise control speed on highway, and rest your feet on the pedal.

    I would very much like you or your mechanic to use the car to drive back and forth to work in order to realize the problem.

    Note:

    1. I drive Honda Accord 91, it does not do that at cruising speed. I feel more comfortable driving the Accord than my Camry 2000. Is that sad!

    2. I drive the Camry 98 4cy, It does not do that, It is so much nicer.

    3. I drive your Elmhurst Toyota Dealer Camry 2001 4cy loaner, It does not do that, It is so much nicer. And this is a V6 and it suppose to feel the same or better.

    Anyone have the same problem that I have?
    Thanks
  • Hi, my parents have a 2000 V6. When I was driving it the other day, I noticed a higher pitched, whirring sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound gets louder the faster the engine is turning. It's not a very loud sound...with the radio on you can't hear it. With the radio off, it's fairly noticeable.

    So I took it into the dealer to have a look. First they tried to get rid of me by telling me it was just the tires (???), but eventually I got the service manager to come out for a drive. He eventually heard the noise, and told me that it's just the alternator working and that the V6's all do this.

    Has anyone else noticed this on a 1995-2001 V6? I don't drive this car too often, but I am almost certain that it didn't always make that sound.
    Thanks
  • orgeeorgee Posts: 4
    I bought a 1995 Camry LE recently. On a dealer inspection, it was found that I need to change the timing belt. The dealer gave an estimate of around $350. Is it a fair price ? Also, what could be a good price if I decide to do the same with a repair shop but not the dealer ?

    I also here a noise of something rolling from the rear of the car when I make a turn or hit a pothole. The dealer suspects it to be a bad strut/shock. There is nothing in the trunk that is rolling side to side. It is annoying. Any ideas ?

    Thanks!
  • atltmatltm Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Camry XLE V6 with 213,000 miles. Recently, there is a rubbing noise from the right front side when I turn to the left. I've checked for anything that might be rubbing but found nothing. Any help would be appreciated.

    Also, I have the same problems with the noisy rear struts I've read about in other messages, but mine only make noise when the temperature gets cold. Any suggestions to cheap fix the noise?

    Finally, I haven't ever replaced the front struts and mounts in the front. Does $675 for the front work sound reasonable?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Get a second opinion. I believe that timing belts are scheduled for 90,000 for your year. Further, due to difficulty to actually see the belt no one inspects timing belts as the cost to do so is about the same as replacing one. So my guess is that they never ever saw the belt but just want you to replace it. My dealer wants about $190.

    Suggest having an independent shop look at it and do work in lieu of dealer. If you are going to replace the timing belt do all of them as no additional labor just the parts. I don't like the sound of what you said though, sounds like rip off time to me.
  • parnolaparnola Posts: 141
    Toyota Dealers here in Dayton, Ohio charge $180-$200 for timing belt replacement.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    If it's a squeaking noise, it's most likely not the struts. I believe it's the sway bar bushings if I remember correctly. If you look under the rear of the car, a couple of rods come down into a bushing on each side. If you spray the bushing with lubricant (white lithium works best) it will cure the problem for a few weeks. It came and went on my 92 V6 since it was new. Sometimes I'd have to spray them once a month, and other times I wouldn't hear from them for a year or so. The last two years I had the car, they never made a sound. I'm not sure if I described where to spay that well, but you should be able to crawl under the car and push it up and down and find where the squeaking is coming from.
  • I have a 92 Toyota Camry LE with 169,000 miles and recently she starting "drinking" oil but there is no oil drips and no oil spills on the ground. Apparently it is going some place but my mechanic hasn't seen this problem and has no idea what is happening. Does anyone have any suggestions?? I just love my car!
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    A quart every 3000 at that mileage is not drinking oil. Assume no blue smoke at start up, no oil in the coolant. If that is the case the mechanic can do several tests to see where oilis going, leak down, compression, something must show up.
  • Recently the car has consumed ( no blue smoke, no drips) a quart of oil in 150 miles. I think there must be a gasket going but don't know what gasket it could be. She runs terrific and I only know of this trouble by checking my oil.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    that if you had the oil changed recently they did not short you a quart in error?

    If coolant is okay and no leaks get some more sophisticated tests done if the quart/150 miles continues
  • I brought my '95 Camry to the dealer to have the 60K service done, and they called me later that day to say that my engine mounts were worn and that they should be replaced, to the tune of over $600. I was told that worn mounts could result in excessive vibration when the car is accelerating. I passed on spending that $$$ for now. Does anyone else have experiences with this problem in their Camry, especially ones that are/were as old as my car is now? Anyone have any suggestions? Should I get this expensive work done, and if so, by the dealer or look to another reputable shop for possible $$ savings? Thanks.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    I had to replace the front motor mount in my 94 4 cyl at 85000 miles for $250 at a dealer. I think it failed because the mount is 2 inches from the exhaust pipe (design error). On the 2002 4 cyl the motor mount is way away from the exhaust pipe.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,241
    I think it's easy to find fault with motor mounts. When the dealer changed the timing belt on my 92 V6 (80K miles) they told me the mounts were bad. I passed. I had the belt changed again at 180K miles (only times that car was at the dealer) and they again informed me that the motor mounts were bad. I think a broken motor mount is one thing, but a worn one that's not causing any noticable vibrations isn't worth changing. At the point it starts becoming noticable (mine never did) then other things could happen and I'd have it changed. I wouldn't be surprised if every car "needs" new ones at the 60K service.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    Mine was quite obvious. A loud clunk when you moved from stop.
    If you raised the hood and put the brake on, and put the car in gear the engine raised up several inches - looked like it would break the upper radiator hose.

    The dealer was not involved in "finding" this problem - they just fixed it $150 or so for the part and 1 hour labor.
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