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I have a 1987 Mercury Cougar 5.0. I am tying to take off the *(&^%$#%&^*&^rocker arm/ valve covers.This is impossible for me any ideas?? :sick: :sick: :sick:
yeah, I was told the same thing. I lived in Michigan...and a 5 min highway drive to the head quarters of ford/gm/crystler...so I think thats why there was one lying around. I just had a chip go bad "randomly" (chip on PC...anti theft device went off). But I think she is holding up pretty well, I dont mind the slowness as much as I love the savings in gas :P
Here is a link to an excellent site for information and DIY repair info on the 4.6L "plastic" intake manifold problem on 4.6L SOHC V8 Cougars and Thunderbirds...
i have a 97 xr7 merc cougar fully loaded. i have a vinyl top with chrome trim. the vinyl was severely staind pink... my car is pearl white. would any of you know what is under my vinyl top? i would look but, im afraid of the vinyl popping loose and me not being able to stretch it back to frame.
I have '91 cougar the lights are working the alt is 3months old and the battery is just a year old but the car won't start.It makes a loud clicking sound... could it be the starter. Someone help me out...
My '99 Cougar alternator went out at 70,000, then another at 105,000, then another at 120,000. The first replaced at the dealer and the other two from local mechanics. Personally I think there are electrical problems in the Cougar (I had flickering dash lights for years, the speaker would go on/off, etc) that are causing the alternators to fail so often. It wouldn't be so bad if the alternator is right up where you could replace it easily. My advice is to sell it once you replace the alternator.
I hope someone can help me. I have a 99 cougar with a stereo that plays intermittently. I have seen TSB's regarding the issue but I have not found out why so that I can fix the thing. It is making me mental if anyone has any information please let me know marti :
I just bought my wife a 99 cougar and the moonroof won't open. The sliding mech. is broke. Do I have to replace the whole assembly? Where can I get a new one? Maybe one that is glass.
I have had a 99 cougar for 2.5 yrs now. When I purchased mine the power sunroof didn't work either. I was told by the dealer that it was due to the power switch. If I were you I would check local junkyards maybe or a dealership which Im sure would be quite pricey. Is your wifes car a manual or automatic transmission? Just to give you a heads up on this vehcile there are a few common problems with them. My stereo is one I just don't know what is wrong and how to fix it altohugh it is listed on many TSB's. Also the reason I asked about the transmission is because of the design of the manual transmission, leads to synchro deterioration. I have that problem as well. If you hear anything of the stereo issue please let me know and if your wife notices the stereo just going on or off at random (hopefully she won't) it is the same problem and it is quite common with the cougars. Also check to ensure that all recalls on the vehicle have been repaired. some were pretty bad. good luck
The sliding mech is broke. I called all the salvage yards in the Oklahoma City area and no luck. I guess she will have to live with it broken cause i'm not spending that kind of money on it now. We haven't had any problem with the stereo shutting off, but the driver's side speaker doesn't always work. Have you thought about replacing the stereo? I already replaced the stereo thinking maybe that was the problem with ours, but no luck. I think I will have to run a new speaker wire to the door. Yes, her car is a manual trans. So far it shifts fine, but it only has 69,000 miles so it will probably screw up later. Also, have you heard anything about the starter? It likes to stay engaged. I checked the recalls and they said there were no outstanding ones.
have you tried looking online at e bay or something of that nature? I do recall seeing an issue with a speaker problem somewhere in my search online for the issue that is causing the stereo problem I have thought about replacing the stereo with an aftermarket but I must say I love the way the stereo sounds when it works. I would simply like to repair it. I purchased my cougar at 63,000 miles. It shifted and ran great for about a year maybe 10-12,000 miles then I began to experience issues with downshifting into 3rd gear it is only 3rd that I have a problem with now I have to put the clutch almost to the floor and wait for about 2 seconds for the rpms to drop to about 1500 before it will go. It is not the clutch which many have asked me it is the "synchro"for 3rd gear. There was an issue with the design in the lubricating pan it was too shallow if I am recalling the information correctly and does not supply enough lubrication so eventually the synchro wears out. I am still driving it that way and have for about a year or so now. I am just "ginger" with third. I generally don't have a problem upshifting just down. So just pay attention to it. I refuse to pay to fix it now as she has now hit 100,000 and will probably get another car down the road. I don't recall off hand anything about a starter but I would check all the TSBs you can find on the net. Oh the sad excuse for the cup holder.... watch your beverages in the morning going around turns Ive worn mine on the way to work. I have been told the same thing about the recalls on mine as well sometimes I wonder.... I think mercury should have recalled much more than they did on this vehicle as it is their flawed design that is the cause of so many headaches. I wouldn't buy another one but I still love mine. It can be a fun little car to drive the good news is 100,000 and still going. If i see anything pertaining to the starter or see anything online regarding the sliding mechanism I will be sure to post it.
i've tried ebay. and i've searched the internet for 2 hours and can't find anything. the stereo will still sound good if you change it out. it's not like you are changing the speakers. we put a sony speciality series stereo in ours and i think it sounds a lot better than stock. besides you get more control of the sound. the stereo is really easy to change. as long as you have to tools to pull the factory stereo out, but we had to go to ebay to get the mounting kit cause noone around carried it. thank you for your help.
Im not sure what the code means. However, out here I had the computer give off a code of course it turned the check engine light on so I took it to auto zone to have the code pulled. I researched mine online and it was an o2 sensor. I never fixed it just had the computer reset. I have an account online that is like a haynes or chiltons manual when i get a few minutes I will try to see if I can find the code on that for you.
hey found the code if it is a P code I could not copy and paste it so I had to save it as a jpeg image if you want I can e mail you the information. let me know
It is some sensor thing I had sent you the jpeg image of the code from all data.i don't know how to fix it but when I have a moment I will try to see what all data says about the fix for the code.
(I also posted this in modification) Ok, this is going to be an odd question, but I am wanting opinions on the best way to do this. I have a v6 motor and auto trans from a 99 cougar and I am putting it in a boat, a 78 ski nautique. So having said that I need all the power to be applied to one output shaft only (drivers side) or equally to both would be ok too. So I have two thoughts the first is to make some kind of plate for the passenger side that keeps the output shaft on that side from moving. The other option is to go into transmission and modify it somehow (like welding the spyder gears in a chunk). Anybody have a clue?
I hope someone can point me in the right direction with and AC problem I have had for a few years.
My Cougar is a 99, had it since new. AC just quit working 2 years ago. I live in FL so it is HOT! The compressor has been replaced with a new one and it has been recharged. Still does not work. No cold air at all.
Any suggestions? I would like to do the work myself if possible. The car has almost 190 thousand on it. Not worth big expenditure.
Also would anyone know how long recalls on cars are good for? I think I may have found a recall to describe another issue I am having. It may be worth pursuing.
Hi, I'm new to this forum, but I too am having A/C issues. Mine blows cool for a bit and then hot...so on and so on...I bought a recharge kit but want to know if it's gonna help? Did you do your own recharge? If so, do you have a 4 or a 6 cly.? I was hoping to tap your experience, because I too am a "do it yourselfer" only because I can't afford shops prices anymore. thanks, Bill
No it did not work for me. I ended replacing the compressor (another 30 bucks)and recharging it again but still no luck. Guessing there is a leak somewhere. I have given up on it for now. I am used to sweating it out! My car is a 6 cly. I am actually going to buy a new vechicle this weekend. I will keep the "cat" for driving around town so I am not sure if I'll ever fix the air. She's been a good car except for the A/C and a few of her own electrical quirks.
Good luck with the A/C. If the miles are low and your going to keep the car, it may be worth paying the money to have it fixed. The kit is a good cheap way to start, worth a try.
I just replaced an altenator and the dash lights, stereo lights, etc. flicker even more steady than before. Did you ever solve what was causing your light issues. Mine looks like a fair ride at night? Thanks
I have replaced the alternator only once in the last 8 years. The flickering for me started way after I replaced the alternator so it just may be one of those temperamental car issues to the Cat.
She has good days and bad days, no rime or reason, but she still gets me to work 193 thousand miles and going!
Has anyone replaced the rear struts on their Cougar. I've got a bonking noise from the right rear under bumps and I think the strut is to blame. I pulled off some interior bits and pieces to check out the strut tower and found about no space to tighten up the strut. Does anybody know if a Ford specific special tool is needed or does the strut simply screw into the tower. Thanks!
My daughter has a 2000 cougar v6 auto now with 130k. She is in medical school, and i take care of the car. Has run well, she aint the most mechanical, but i dont think more than normal problems. yes, i replaced the radio, and the sun roof wont open any more, but has been good transportation. sounds good with an after market stereo, and who really needs sun?
my problem now is / are two. 1 engine light is on, and code reader sends back P0401 EGR flow insufficient. 2 temperature guage stays at minimum.
a year ago, it was running bad,(uneven idle, stalling, racing engine... always started) and though the codes said oxygen sensors were not right, the problem cleared up with replacing the coolant sensor.
I have checked the egr valve, and it opens, no holes in the diaphram, and the exhaust tube is not blocked. if you close up the holes in the manifold, the egr opens and closes, and will stay open at a constant rpm (~2k).
now the egr vacuum passes through one vacuum solenoid, but the egr itself has only a diaphram and exhaust tube. there is no device to sample the egr flow directly.
does anyone know what other sensors are involved in deciding how much egr is the right amount. is there a second temperature sensor, and where is it? i did replace the temp sensor again, and nothing changed. (just wishful thinking).
I reset the computer, and the light stays off about a day, during that time, no codes are in the car, and there is no freeze frame data. im running low on $ as just did rear struts, front lower control arms and stabilizers, wheel bearings last year. (Pittsburgh pot hole are the best)
i just did this on a 2000 cougar. not too bad a job. in the strut tower, there are 2 10 mm screws that hold in a top mounting plate. there is a pinch bold on the bottom, thats easy to see and get at.
you need to disconnect the stabilizer from the swing arm.
loosen, but dont take out the 2 10mm screws.
loosen and remove the pinch bolt.
support the control arms so they dont drop when its all loose. but it needs to be able to fall away from the strut.
you will need to compress the spring/strut to get it out of the tower, and away from a travel limiting tab on the frame.
once its out, you need to compress the spring, remove the top bolt, and pull the spring off.
your half way there..
keep the spring compressed, and reassemble it and the top plate on the new strut.
keep the spring short,and put it back in the tower.
start the 2 10 mm screws, but not all the way tight.
reposition the strut and push the lower knuckle back onto the new strut, and replace the pinch bolt.
make sure the ends of the springs are in the right place, and release the spring.
recheck all the bolts to torque specs, and your done.
all through this, you have to take care not injur your brake lines or abs sensors .
bolts are easy to get to, top ones need some extensions. spring compressor is the key, needs to be compact enough to get into the tower for re assembly. there are some available that use a single screw. the cheaper ones use 2 screws with hooks on both ends, and take up too much width and height in the tower. i was desperate, and used steel cables to keep the springs compressed after i reassembled the thing on the bench. then loosened the cable bolts after it was together. it worked, but... dont be a putz like me, go rent the right compressor, then its a relatively easy job.
This may sound like something you may have already checked into. Though you have replaced the a/c and you say that it doesn't blow any cold air even right from install correct. Is the ac clutch engaging. If the clutch isn't engaging then its not a leak its an electrical problem. In my experience most of the time the problem with the a/c's in fords, especially mustang i know this to be true, is the low pressure switch located on the condenser. You can usually cross the connection to get the a/c clutch to turn on.If that is not the case then I have a copy of the Ford Shop Manual for a 2000 cat which should be of great help. My friend has a similiar problem with his. Then his next problem was that his a/c would only blow on the highest speed. Thats when I got the manual and wiring diagrams to fiqure out where the blow motor resistor was.
I have a 95 mercury cougar, the power locks will not work, but when I hit the button I can hear a clicking in my trunk! Is this a fuse problem or what?
Ok, I am driving down the road and my speedometer stops working. All other gauges are working. So I keep driving the car. Seems to be running fine. Two days go by and the odometer stops working. Still driving the car, the gas light goes on with ¼ of a tank of gas. Not usual. Driving the car and all of a sudden on the Turnpike it just stops running. I turned if off and on she went without further incident. Does anyone have any idea other than me needing to just suck it up and pay for someone to fix it? Could it be a fuse? The car has 196 thousand on it so I really hate to put money into it! HELP!
When I get to 67 mph the speedo sticks and won't go any higher. I'd hate to get a speeding ticket. lol! Sometimes I get down to 20 mph before the speedo comes down. Any ideas?
i had this exact problem with my 2002 cougar i also replaced the egr valve,but the problem is the egr pressure sensor and you can get it from autozone for about $50.00. I hope this fixes the problem
Hi, I'm new to this forum but i have an 02 cougar an the lights pulse when the cars at idle an the headlights are really dim, i have already replaced a battery,egr valve and an egr pressure sensor, i would like to know if anyone else has had this problem and has gotten it fixed, i haven't replaced the alternator yet because every test says its fine. Please Help if you have any info on this
I called the Mercury dealer about the P0401 code and they said it is never the EGR Valve but its always the Pressure Sensor. So look into that its behind the UIM directly behind the Idle Control Valve. Long silver looking thing.
i have a 99 cougar that has no brake lights the fuse is good brake light switch is good but i get on power to the lights .... i have park lights .... turn lights... but no brake lights if you have had this trouble let me know
Well, I am new to this website. Therefore, I will begin with an introduction. I'm Jaye James. I am 23 years of age and I currently reside in Hampton, VA. Now, on to the more important stuff. I own a 1999 Mercury Cougar. Sure, I've had some problems . . . but I will admit that my problems with this car haven't been as bad as some of the others discussed in this forum. Let's see. There are two problems that I would like to resolve. (1) It seems that regardless of what I do, my CEL is forever on. I don't know what the deal is. Of course, I have replaced the oxygen sensors. Any suggestions? Moving right along. (2) I am having a problem with my power windows. I have replaced the switches numerous times. Mind you . . . those switches are not cheap. I don't know what to do. It's becoming very frustrating. I'm more than willing to put work into this car because it's my baby. If you feel as though you can help, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.
Have you changed the spark plug wires? The CEL was on for 6 month on my 99 cougar and everytime i had it hooked up to a computer it kept showing the O2 sensor but when i replaced them it didn't fix it either. I replaced the plug wires and no more light.
My 99 cougar keeps showing i have a light out on the display. I have looked the car over several times and can't find a light out. Is there a reset for it? Is there a light i might have overlooked? It's driving me crazy.
I just bought I mean not even drove except home (wow what a mistake) a 99 cougar v6 auto trans for my son. I parked in the driveway woke up drove approx 3 miles to the gym. The tranny was slipping bad wondered what the hell was going on. While at the gym received a call from my wife asking if I saw the fluid all over the driveway.I told her no the car was under it and I didn't notice it backing out? Anyone know what may have caused this?
Does the car have any special hoses going to it that may have broken?
I found someone that was having flickering light problems with their 2000 cougar and has the TSB from a Ford Dealership in order to do the repair themselves. This is for '99's and 00's. While they couldn't guarantee that it would fix the problem on all cars they said it did on theirs.
try the light failer indactor it located under the dash between the fuse panel and the driver side the car ford can get it for about 90. to 110. dollars i had the trouble of on brake lights and this fix my trouble let me know if this help
I have taken the car to an Auto Zone car parts store. Onto an OBD II reader and the code was P1518, indiacating that the battery is weak, and the TAC module is bad. Does anyone have the same thing. And where/what is the TAC Module?
iv had my 99 cougar for alittle under a year. When the midwest flooded pretty bad a few weeks ago, i had to have my alt replaced. After that, when i give it full throttle in a race or whatever, i have my batt light flashing at me. when i took it back to have it checked out, they couldnt figure out and all they could tell me was that my car was prolly getting to much power at a heavy acceleration.Anyone have words one that? anything would be helpful
I have a odd question. I have once before owned a 1986 Mercury Cougar. fought to buy it for $1000.00 and finally got it. I loved that car with all my glory, waxing it daily, washing it daily, no food in the car. The horse power and feel of the car was every thing I wished for. Until some lil sweet old lady ran a red light and completely tore my dream car from me. The car was a write off, and now...I am despertly seeking another Cougar...older, fixer upper..something reventltly cheap as well. I enjoy working on restorations anyway. I am in Canada, so if one is available for sale in Canada area, would be a bonus...I currently have a 88 beretta...nice little sports car...but no offence...I really like that cute lil logo...what was it...Something about piss on chev? lol...I really dislike chev...considering the price it is for parts....for example...a digital dash odmeter..over $800.00...a netural safety switch...over $80.00....The joy of pushing the button at the wreckers....they pay me....lol but, back to my question...is there actually a Cougar out there availible? Like I said, odd question.
So . . . I'm back. I own a 1999 Mercury Cougar. I've always had a problem with the CEL. Well, it was suggested to me that I should change the spark plugs. I did that. No results. I still have that same old problem, the CEL. I ran out of ideas a very long time ago. Not to mention the fact that I still haven't solved the problem with my power windows. I don't know anymore. Seriously, if there is anyone that can help, please respond. I'll check back soon. Thanks.
Comments
http://www.autoclinix.com/Manifold.htm
marti :
I have a v6 motor and auto trans from a 99 cougar and I am putting it in a boat, a 78 ski nautique.
So having said that I need all the power to be applied to one output shaft only (drivers side) or equally to both would be ok too.
So I have two thoughts the first is to make some kind of plate for the passenger side that keeps the output shaft on that side from moving. The other option is to go into transmission and modify it somehow (like welding the spyder gears in a chunk). Anybody have a clue?
My Cougar is a 99, had it since new. AC just quit working 2 years ago. I live in FL so it is HOT! The compressor has been replaced with a new one and it has been recharged. Still does not work. No cold air at all.
Any suggestions? I would like to do the work myself if possible. The car has almost 190 thousand on it. Not worth big expenditure.
Also would anyone know how long recalls on cars are good for? I think I may have found a recall to describe another issue I am having. It may be worth pursuing.
Thanks.
No it did not work for me. I ended replacing the compressor (another 30 bucks)and recharging it again but still no luck. Guessing there is a leak somewhere. I have given up on it for now. I am used to sweating it out! My car is a 6 cly. I am actually going to buy a new vechicle this weekend. I will keep the "cat" for driving around town so I am not sure if I'll ever fix the air. She's been a good car except for the A/C and a few of her own electrical quirks.
Good luck with the A/C. If the miles are low and your going to keep the car, it may be worth paying the money to have it fixed. The kit is a good cheap way to start, worth a try.
Thanks
She has good days and bad days, no rime or reason, but she still gets me to work 193 thousand miles and going!
She is in medical school, and i take care of the car.
Has run well, she aint the most mechanical, but i dont think more than normal problems.
yes, i replaced the radio, and the sun roof wont open any more, but has been good transportation. sounds good with an after market stereo, and who really needs sun?
my problem now is / are two.
1 engine light is on, and code reader sends back P0401 EGR flow insufficient.
2 temperature guage stays at minimum.
a year ago, it was running bad,(uneven idle, stalling, racing engine... always started) and though the codes said oxygen sensors were not right, the problem cleared up with replacing the coolant sensor.
I have checked the egr valve, and it opens, no holes in the diaphram, and the exhaust tube is not blocked. if you close up the holes in the manifold, the egr opens and closes, and will stay open at a constant rpm (~2k).
now the egr vacuum passes through one vacuum solenoid, but the egr itself has only a diaphram and exhaust tube. there is no device to sample the egr flow directly.
does anyone know what other sensors are involved in deciding how much egr is the right amount.
is there a second temperature sensor, and where is it?
i did replace the temp sensor again, and nothing changed. (just wishful thinking).
I reset the computer, and the light stays off about a day, during that time, no codes are in the car, and there is no freeze frame data.
im running low on $ as just did rear struts, front lower control arms and stabilizers, wheel bearings last year.
(Pittsburgh pot hole are the best)
thanks for any help.
not too bad a job.
in the strut tower, there are 2 10 mm screws that hold in a top mounting plate. there is a pinch bold on the bottom, thats easy to see and get at.
you need to disconnect the stabilizer from the swing arm.
loosen, but dont take out the 2 10mm screws.
loosen and remove the pinch bolt.
support the control arms so they dont drop when its all loose. but it needs to be able to fall away from the strut.
you will need to compress the spring/strut to get it out of the tower, and away from a travel limiting tab on the frame.
once its out, you need to compress the spring, remove the top bolt, and pull the spring off.
your half way there..
keep the spring compressed, and reassemble it and the top plate on the new strut.
keep the spring short,and put it back in the tower.
start the 2 10 mm screws, but not all the way tight.
reposition the strut and push the lower knuckle back onto the new strut, and replace the pinch bolt.
make sure the ends of the springs are in the right place, and release the spring.
recheck all the bolts to torque specs, and your done.
all through this, you have to take care not injur your brake lines or abs sensors .
bolts are easy to get to, top ones need some extensions.
spring compressor is the key, needs to be compact enough to get into the tower for re assembly. there are some available that use a single screw. the cheaper ones use 2 screws with hooks on both ends, and take up too much width and height in the tower.
i was desperate, and used steel cables to keep the springs compressed after i reassembled the thing on the bench. then loosened the cable bolts after it was together. it worked, but... dont be a putz like me, go rent the right compressor, then its a relatively easy job.
good luck, be careful.
Thanks!
Does the car have any special hoses going to it that may have broken?
Was a cheap fix so it might be worth getting the information from them. I found them here down near the bottom of the page: http://www.carsurvey.org/viewmorecomments_review_50800_2.html#c204379