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Subaru Crew
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http://www.unorthodoxracing.com
Click on the pulley section as well as the FAQ and they give a decent overview of their pulleys and how they work. As was noted above, they are smaller than stock, so your accessories will spin slower. UR says that generally no one will notice as they only do about 15% underdriving. They are also much lighter, which means your engine doesn't have to work as hard and thus gains HP. Finally, you can check out http://www.zerosports.co.jp for some Japanese Subaru pulleys, including for A/C and alternator.
Thanks for the nice comments on my pics. They are from SE Oregon, near Leslie Gulch, Succor Creek, and Rome.
Dave
Join us here for discussions with owners, prospective owners, enthusiasts, and hopefully some direct input from Subaru's marketing arm.
We'll try to keep this forum informative and interesting, which shouldn't be hard given the tone of most Subaru topics at Edmunds.
Thanks for joining us.
-juice, AKA ateixeira, but please call me "juice"
'98 Subaru Forester L 5-speed
I look forward to this forum with great enthusiasm as I've enjoyed many enlightening posts in the other Subaru forums here on Edmund's.
As background, my first Subaru was a 91 Legacy L+ wagon. My current ride (wife's actually; sometimes I get to drive it is a 00 Legacy GT wagon, 5-speed manual transmission (5MT).
..Mike Smith (miksmi) Silver Spring MD USA
..Mike
Stevev1
90 Legacy LS
2000 Forester S
-juice
I'm in!
99 Impreza RS
currently a 2K OB LTD, last a 9 Forester L and before that a 90 Legacy (Front wheel drive)
Vince14
Congrats on your Owners Club status!
KarenS
Edmunds.com Town Hall Host
Manny
Y2K Forester L
I have some recollection of a phrase like "stoichiometric efficiency" which refers, I think to the efficiency with which the fuel air mixture is burned. I guess this may have been a function of the old carburetor fed systems but may not apply to the same extent on electronic fed systems where the efficiency can be monitored and altered.
Against the efficient fuel usage of the engine, the wind resistance rises, I think as a function of the square of the speed and friction and other losses probably rise linearly. There is probably some minima for all of the forces which means there is a genuine most efficient fuel usage point/speed for each car type.
I know that each car I have owned has had an apparent "natural speed" which the car would tend to settle at when driven long distance on freeway type roads with no other cars around and the throttle tamped as little as possible.
Does anyone have any ideas on this?
Cheers
Graham
And my car seems to naturally settle in about 5-10 MPH over the speed limit, whatever that may be.
-Colin
But at this point (still shopping) he's thinking NOTHING of paying $5,000+ for a vehicle with 85,000 miles or more. I realize that Subaru engines can last a really long time, and that might be an okay deal... but with the volume of these cars on the road, might he not get a better deal than that?
Also, he's a bit short on cash (aren't most 21 year olds) and I keep telling him a vehicle, any vehicle, with that many miles might be looking at a lot of standard repairs. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, brakes, clutches...
What's a good price on a Sub, about 5-8 years old with more than 80,000 miles? When does the clutch go?
Advice? Thanks.!
The older Subarus with the 2.2L engines had smaller clutches. When they first went to the 2.5L engines they left the smaller clutch in, at least on the Forester, which turned out to be a problem. So it may depend on engine vintage as well.
Make sure that if the car has the 60,000 mile timing belt, it got replaced at 60,000 miles. (Or is it 90,000? Mine is 105,000 in my Forester, so I forget what they used to be.) When they have/had the engine open for this they should check the condition of the oil pump as well.
For prices on used cars, look at the "used car" price ranges right here on Edmunds, and also on the Kelly blue book pages (www.kbb.com). The "retail" values are useful to know for your own negotiation.
Chris
I currently own a 98 Forester I just bought and
a 87 GL wagon 4x4 which I'm trying to sell,
For anyone out there who owns an older subaru thats primarly from wheel drive with 4-wheel assist the new AWD system is amazing and you can really feel the difference. Plus the larger engines are really head and shoulders above the old 1.8L. I just hope that I can drive the Forester for 325K with no major repairs.
On the Forester (S) I'm currently looking for a good set of tires to put on for the summer months because the car came with winter tires on it, and was wondering what kind of tire I should be looking at for mainly summer driving with some minor gravel roads and mountain driving in western Canada, thanks for the input and we need more people to post here
Stephen
I tend to get 25-28 mpg on trips, but how it varies has more to do with the amount of weight I'm carrying and drag (higher when I use the soft cargo carrier).
I touched 30mpg once on an all highway trip by myself, but speeds were around 75mph. Not bad with today's gas prices.
I'm driving to New York (third time in the Soob!) on Tuesday, with 4 passengers plus luggage. Lots of luggage, have you ever seen a Brazilian go shopping in New York? I expect about 25 mpg, but I'll keep you guys posted, as usual.
Cookie: well cared for Subarus typically last. 80k is really nothing. A few buddies have hit 200k, and iSR has a quarter million mile club with several photos. Check the papers, and have a mechanic do a once-over. The newer Impreza and Legacy models are all best bets in used cars, according to Consumer Reports.
Stephen: good question, but it's a tough one. Summer tires are very sporty, with soft tread and stiff sidewalls. They stick like glue, but don't last, and are good in rain but awful in snow and off road.
Off road tires usually have taller profile and soft sidewalls, since you want that flex off road.
You may need a skizophrenic tire to do both. I recommend you get a new set of wheels and mount summer tires on them. Then mount new snow or off-road tires on your current set.
Otherwise, it's comprosise with a good all-season tire. The Desert Duelers are great in the snow, but not good in wet braking, and only ok in dry handling. I'm changing them, since I don't venture too far from pavement.
-juice
If we're just talking summer driving and some dirt and gravel roads, then I'd recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate. Good in the rain (until nearly bald, no surprise there) and tread pattern allows for decent gravel grip but stay out of deep mud. Very scary in cold weather of any kind.
The stock tires on my Impreza are actually fairly competent on gravel... Bridgestone Potenza RE92 v-rated. Unfortunately their tarmac performance (dry and wet) is so lame I wouldn't recommend them to anyone, especially considering the price.
Good luck!
-Colin
I currently have a Miata but I'm looking to get
a Forester in the next month or so. I hope I
can contribute more in the near future but for
now I'll have to defer to all you knowledgeable
Subaru folks out there.
One comment I found interesting while doing a
little car research was about the Forester having
mushy/soft brakes. I guess it's all relative
because the brakes in the two Foresters I test-
drove (2000 and 2001) were much firmer than in
my Miata. However, I did test-drive a Passat
wagon and the brakes were so touchy that I felt
like I was just learning how to drive again!
Anyway, any comments on the colors for the 2001
Forester S with the moonroof package (black,
white, silver, red)? I've only had a green car
so I'm kind of stuck on what to go with but I am
leaning towards silver. Any problems to be aware
of?
Cheers,
Shane.
(San Jose, CA)
ps. Now that there's a Subaru-specific
conference, maybe 'Subaru' should be
added to the Spellcheck dictionary.
If anyone at all knows who imports Zero Sports Subaru parts (click below) please let me know, thanks! http://www.zerosports.co.jp/indexa.html
Dave
(Also see Subaru Performance topic in Aftermarket and Accessories #446)
Chris
A word of thanks for overseeing the new site! Your comments in the past have been very helpful, to the point and with a touch of good humor.
I hope all who avail themselves of the new site exercise the good judgement both of you have shown. It's refreshing to find an "adult" effort these days.
My wife ('97 Imprezza) and I ('96 Outback) are strong advocates of Subaru, especially here in Illinois. Neither car has given us the least bit of trouble and other than routine maintenance, they "visit" the dealership for washes! I've owned an SVX which I traded in on the Outback as my wife and I are avid bicyclists and we couldn't feel secure knowing the bikes were on the back of the coupe. The SVX was probably one of the best cars I ever owned and that one also has no problems in the 50,000 plus miles.
The next wqgon will most likely be a 2001 Outback with the H6 sometime later this year.
Juice and Mike...keep up your great work!
Don
Thanks for your help.
In the greater Chicago area, it seems as if you can purchase Outback Ltd wagons for approximately $2,500 under MSLP. At least, this is what the ads show. You may be able to strike a "better" deal, especially if you purchase a 2000 model just at the time the 2001 is introduced. Expected date is around September.
Price often is a function of the number of dealers in your area. Here, we have nearly 12 within 25-30 miles of Chicago.
If you live anywhere near here, I'd be glad to make introductions for you.
Anyhow, I hope this helps prospective buyers. As my father so wisely told me years ago, if you think you got a good deal then you did as there will always be someone else who got better.
Stephen
Stephen
Stephen
Don: Thanks for joining us. Regarding the "adult" effort, you must be referring to juice. Regarding to the point, I KNOW you were talking about juice. Thanks for your kind words.
Chris: A Liberty (you think) in the parking lot? Cool. Low-range transmission and other good stuff we don't get.
Drew: You're informative posts (and photos) are always welcome!
Dave: I think you created the performance topic about the same time Bonnie was setting up the topics here. juice and I suggested Subaru Crew - Modifications (Topic #16) to discuss modifications and performance in this part of Edmund's to put all the Subaru topics under one roof, so people wouldn't have to hunt around for the all the Subaru threads. No problem having both.
As I know you'd like to enhance your Outback (and in case I haven't already mentioned it), you might find i Club -- North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club interesting. The site was founded by Impreza 2.5 RS owners but it's a helpful site as much of the Impreza, Legacy, and Outback platform are similar, including the Phase II engine and much of the suspension (e.g., Impreza sway bars fit the Legacy and vice versa). Also see the Legacy Forum on i Club. Warning: Not all i Club posters are courteous (read: mature; i.e., research before you post and don your flame suit).
And while we're on the subject of sites I would be remiss if I didn't mention the best compendium of Subaru sites I've ever seen, Gordon Diamant's Sube-Directory. Gordon is the man.
Anyone else have withdrawal yesterday while Edmund's was down? I know my productivity skyrocketed.
..Mike Smith Silver Spring MD USA
..Mike
http://www.fhi.co.jp/subaru/maic0201.htm
pahill- Never go down from list, alway work up from cost. Use the cost figures here at Edmunds, which are almost 100% accurate, except for freight (off by $4) and see below. Know the costs of each option you want and may have to take. Take the total cost with options at cost, add the freight, and negotiate a fair amount above that amount that you're comfortable with. The range posted here has been from below cost to 3% aove, depending on the time and area purchased. Try several dealers . Good luck.
P.S. Woodgrain trim for doors is shown at Edmunds and elsewhere at $100 list. Subie window stickers show it as a $200 list option. So, is the price per side? Does anyone know? Has anyone else experienced their front bumper (2K OB only) spliting a bit at the seam? Mine is.
Vince14
Cheers
Graham
The search goes on!!
Patty
Justin
Mike
..Mike
Also, I've survived a midwest winter in a Z28 by using the Pirelli P7000 SS tires. A very good year round tire, IMO. Imagine having it on a AWD car like the 2.5 RS...
I will see if I can turn up anything more technical.
Cheers
Graham
As for the self-leveling suspension, I believe it is only available for Subarus in Japan and Australia. There is supposedly a mechanism in the rear shocks that uses the forward motion of the car to drive oil pressure to level the shocks. That's why when you stop, the rear goes back down. Subaru didn't bring it to the US due to cost considerations (so they say).
Anyway, good to be here!
Ken
Black 98 Forester S, 5-speed
Mike
..Mike
-Colin
"Subaru has determined that a small number of 2000 model year Legacy vehicles may have been equipped in production with an incorrect master cylinder that may give the driver a feeling of a slightly lower break pedal. Although the pedal stroke may be somewhat longer, *there is no effect whatsoever on breaking performance* (bold print, there). Nevertheless, in the interest of customer satisfaction, Subaru will install a correct specification master cylinder in affected vehicles at no charge to owners."
Not too thrilled about the recall, but I still love my car, and just felt that those who have expressed concerns about this might take some heart in seeing that SOA has come up front on this. It might not be the same issue that many people have discussed here as perhaps the brake feel of these cars is just naturally softer than what they were accustomed to on other vehicles (I know they are for me, but I prefer the feel, actually). On the other hand, it seems that it might be an issue for those who were (or *are*) totally turned off by it.
Hope it helps.
Mike
..Mike
Also, didn't realize the other forums were still open, and this might not be the appropriate place for the post...accept apologies.
..Mike
Anyway, I have a few concerns:
- The ones that lack thermostats might get things TOO cold when it is cool out. Do they?
- The one with the thermostat is a huge (40qt) Coleman, bigger than I want. Are there smaller ones with thermostats? (Maybe I should wait until one of the manufacturers "invents" that.)
- Some say "40 F below ambient", some say "46 F"; are they all about the same, or is the 6 degrees difference in claim significant? (Note that in 90-degree weather, a -40 change only brings you down to 50 F, not really cold enough, especially if you are applying this during the day and hoping to keep things cold overnight while you are parked. -46 brings you down to 44 F, which is still a bit warm, but far better.)
- What size is the one from Subaru? It looks (in photos) like the 32 qt Igloo model.
- Are there any advantages to the Igloo over the Coleman or vice versa?
Chris
Manny
PS I watched a little supped up CRX get stuck in 3 inches of snow on a very slight grade, and people laugh at my station wagon, well I know who laughs last.
Thanks Folks
Stephen
Thanks
Stephen
Are your snow tires 215R16-60 or 225's? Are you planning on 215s on a 225 Rim?
I don't have a lot of experience with plus sizing, but I know for a fact that the Forester L tires (205R15-70) actually have a larger diameter than the S tires if you do the math.
BTW, did you mean CR-V when you wrote "CRX"? Was it a 2WD CR-V?