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Comments
That plus some mods for more power means you pay at the pump.
Small price to pay, though. Gas is still relatively cheap, all things considered.
-juice
PS I averaged about 28mpg in my Escort, 2300 pounds and 127hp from 1.8l. I can't explain it either!
But I do lean into it a bit for most corners and most dead stops. Love that boxer sound...
I've actually noticed that if I truly drive "normal" at all times for a whole tankful my mileage is only 1-2 MPG better.
-Colin
He needs something cheap so it will have to be old.
Here's what I need to know--any bad years in Subaru's past we should steer away from? Bad models, etc? Thanks for any insight.
Besides that, I can't think of anything in particular unique to Subaru. Not to knock on Edmunds, but try carpoint.msn.com and look up the used car you are interested in. If there is any known "epidemic" problems they will be listed. For example, a Taurus will have warnings about (very) unreliable automatic transmissions and it even gives average repair costs ($1500).
-Colin
Gasoline floats on water. The pump intake is usually near but not quite at the bottom (and/or floating?). In airplanes, there is a "sample" valve at the bottom of the tank, and one of the preflight checks is to drain off a small sample and make sure it is entirely gasoline, no water.
Chris
It's a credit card issued by MBNA which allows you to build up 'points' which translate into dollars you can use to purchase or lease a Subaru.
I called SOA , who referred me to MBNA, whose website had no info on the card. Their 800 operator had some info but it sounded vague.
On the Subaru website there's a press release (from 1997!) which gives some of the info you'd need but not all.
It appears that you get credit for 5% of retail purchases. That is, charge $1K in a month and get $50 credit. I assume you get nothing for cash advances or other non-retail transactions (otherwise why not get an advance for $25K and pay it back immediately and get a free car?)
I'd also guess there is a limit to how much you can build up in these credits...anyone know what it is?
AND can you use the credits independent of any other deal you negotiate? That is, if you've already got your deal down to (lets say) invoice price, can you then use $500 in credits to get the price down that much, or do the credits only apply to MSRP?
It seems like this could be a good way to get options for free, at least.
The card seems like a good one in general.No annual fee. Interest rate is low to start (3.9%) then becomes variable. But if you pay off your balance every month....
Best wishes,
AT
Thanks again so much for the reply. Seeya.
I'll probably have more to say later, but for now just 2 more things. Drove 349 km, used 33.9 l. of gas (24.2 US mpg) for very mixed driving. Finally, I had a love-hate thing going on. Loved the car, hated to give it back. Will try to complete a deal on car tomorrow.
Ross
Hmmmm..Bad or good idea Folks?
Celeste: stick with '93 or newer models. All are Consumer Reports best bets in terms of long term reliability, and people here tend to agree. Make sure you get a model with AWD and ABS, and throw in a day at Subaru/Panoz defensive driving school.
AT: I believe the limit is $3500. Pretty meaningful discount if you charge a lot.
Ross: 48 hours? Nice dealer! Share a name?
I think the fog lights are aimed too low, even when you adjust them all the way up. Guess it's ok for light trails, you can see directly ahead of you and to the sides.
Centavo: did you get a blister in the tires? That's when there is a small tear on the inside, and it looks a bit like the bump you desribe. If so, I'd see if the warranty covers the tire. It could blow if you scrape a curb or something. At least consider mounting the spare in its place.
nvy: sorry, no extra star, and no GM cars. Mike and I met Frank Patton (2001 Forester S in Blue, lucky guy) for happy hour yesterday and the consensus was to use GM for its purchasing network, OnStar, marketing, and maybe dealerships.
No GM products at Subaru.
-juice
I know what you mean. When I leave work each day, by the time I get to the highway, the engine is warmed up, and there's this 90 degree left turn onto this very long on ramp. Knowing I'll be accelerating to highway speed anyway, I downshift, take that corner as fast as I can and then floor it. Nobody ever tries to keep up! I guess they just don't know how to have fun.
>> The pump intake is
usually near but not quite at the bottom (and/or
floating?). <<
This is what I was wondering about. If the intake is at the bottom of the tank, which makes sense, you are using gas from the bottom of the tank all the time, even when the tank is full. Also the motion of the vehicle and new gas being added to the tank would stir up any sediment on a regular basis. The only way you wouldn't be using "bottom gas" all the time is indeed if the intake moved up and down, just below the surface of the fuel. If there is a small amount of gas containing sediment below the intake, I don't see how it will magically jump up into the intake when you get low on gas if it wasn't doing it the rest of the time.
Dave
I'm from St. Louis -- SUVs, pickups and conversion vans rule here. Sure is encouraging to see so many Subarus instead of the usual plethora of gas/space hogs.
That seems perfectly logical to me, not mentioning the cc rebate until a firm price is set. Kind of like negotiating on price alone and figuring in mfg rebates LAST.
Interesting that the bank would tell you to do that though. Good for them.
-Colin
The one thing that impressed me yesterday on my drive home was how the coolant temperature didn't even budge as I was crawling home on the freeway (lots of stalled vehicles) with A/C on in triple digit temperatures. I would probably have to switch off the A/C with some of the other vehicles I've owned in the past. Subaru did a great job with the cooling system.
I was also very glad I had my windows tinted to 20% last year. Made a huge difference!
This is an extreme example because the car is so old, but as a rule made to be broken I always try to keep at least 1/4 tank of gas and in the winter at least 1/2 tank of gas.
Mary
Many thanks to anyone who can advise me.
Michael Day
Northern Illinois University
DeKalb, Illinois
Mary: I thought the GM card also had a $3500 limit? Oh, well.
Ford dropped theirs altogether. Must've pissed off a lot of customers.
You cut the old tank open? Wow.
Ken: my A/C cranks, too. The wife sat in my Forester for a day and promptly sent her 626 in for a recharge.
Anyone have tips for Michael?
-juice
Like 2ndwnd (Dave), I'm confused too as to why water & crud would "slosh" into the intake only when the fuel tank is low, and not all the time.
I've heard that the tank walls can rust when they are exposed, but then the top of the tank is always exposed. I've also heard that gas gets acidic and gummy if let sit too long.
Anyhow, I've always been in the habit of refueling when I have only 1 or 2 gallons left, and haven't had a problem (that seemed related to this) in 4 cars and 300,000 miles.
Dunno!
Dave
I was coming down out of the mountains this past weekend on a 2 lane gravel road. Some guy in a 4x4 pickup comes up behind me real quick and gets on my tail. Well, this was on the straight section as you would imagine. The first set of curves that came up allowed me to unleash a little bit of the rally racer in the OB. Power on all the way through the curves. Let the AWD do it's thing. Bye-bye 4x4 truck. All the while the wife and kid were dozing comfortably.
Cool story about the 4x4. Those are the things about Subarus that make me smile.
I have a hitch rack for the bikes I take on and off too. I like them behind the car out of the wind and away from low roof/trees. It bolts on/off in 30 seconds.
I can carry 4 bikes on the hitch, 4 people inside, and 150lbs of gear on the roof. Now I just need 3 mtn biking friends
I've been following this site for a while, ever since I got my '00 Outback. Love the car, and all the exchanges here, but felt that I never had anything to really contribute, until now.
The rust and crud that settles in a fuel tank normally doesn't move a whole lot, if there is enough fuel above it. Consider a submarine at sea. 100 feet down, it is nice and calm, even if there is a storm above it. If it is on the surface, it feels the full effects of the waves. The same thing happens with the debris in the fuel. If the fuel level gets really low, the fuel will slosh around more and the junk will get stirred up.
Corrosion is accelerated at the water/air interface. That can be seen at piers and on ships. If the surface doesn't get exposed much to air, it won't rust as much, which is why the fuel tanks normally rust out in the upper half of the tank. Of course, you also get corrosion from dissimilar metals, but that's a different story..
I don't think the fuel pick up floats, it is fixed somewhere near the bottom of the tank. There must be someone out there who is a mechanic or who has a shop book that shows the fuel tank and pump??
Mike
Juice: My brother's GM card has an annual limit and an overall limit. I don't remember how much they are but I can easily find out if anyone is interested in a GM car or card.
Mary
OK, I'll buy that. I used to never let the tank go below 1/4, but with the gas prices lately, I've been driving around on a tank longer, hoping the prices will go down. That hasn't been working too well...
Dave
Mary
And Mike (mikef11), thanks for the great contribution. Mechanical engineer, eh? Now we'll expect more, hehe.
..Mike
..Mike
-mike
..Mike
..Mike
Along with the mounts, we have four tie-downs - the best are cam-lock webbing straps like truckers use (although you can get them in 1" or 1.5" widths so they're easier to manage). Two go across the beam of the boat from post to post. The other two go around the bow/stern handles and hook on to the three tow points and fourth "non-tow" point. Wrap the front webbing strap in a rag/tshirt/chamois/silk/lingerie (depending upon your level of dedication to your car...) where the straps contact the hood or else you will get some very curious-looking abrasion patterns there.
We've done hours of 70 mph plus driving with our canoe on this way with no problems (sound of knocking wood). Crosswinds are not an issue because of the ells on the round bars. Plus, we can open the sunroof under the canoe and stash our contraband there when we get pulled over....joke.
the other thing to remember is to drive the car for 5-10 min at highway speeds and then (even though it's a pain) stop and do a check. Cinch stuff down and so on. It's worth the piece of mind. I've never seen a boat fly off the top of a car or trailer and get run over by a big truck (or worse, flatten a Ford Fiesta) and I don't wanna.
jg
Mammoth Lakes, California in 4 wheel drift. From iClub. Cool.<<
I have to agree with the guy Larry who comes in later with the comment about treading lightly. Looks like these people were really tearing up the beautiful landscape.
Dave
..Mike
Best,
mday (Michael)
Perhaps, if GM utilizes Subaru technology correctly, I might trade in my Continental Airlines card for the GM again. I haven't really had problems with the Blazer, but I wanted the safety of the Odyssey for the wife and kids.
and wasn't created by careless off roading.<<
True, it's hard to tell for sure. Might be an old lot of some sort.
Dave
Has anybody had any experience with the hard sided car top luggage carriers they sell at Sears ? I'm not interested in the little two tone 10.5 cu. ft. one that's been around for several years, but the newer, 20 cu. ft. black model. I'm thinking of buying one, and was just wondering if any of you had used one or knew someone who did.
Dave
and wasn't created by careless off roading.<<
>True, it's hard to tell for sure. Might be an old lot of some sort.<
Could be. What sold me on my Forester was my test drive which took me from Interstate/on-ramp/off-ramp to suburban side streets w/NJ potholes to industrial park construction site where I ripped through the mud, gravel and sand. Felt a little guilty that I didn't buy from that dealer - Coleman in Ewing, NJ - but they had neither the car nor the price I wanted.
Great post on tying down boats atop Foresters, grugru. I'm picking up a new Perception Carolina next weekend and I've never been entirely confident about strapping one on the top. I sprung for the Yakima round bars and SKS lock cores, but bought an aftermarket cradle system made by a regional manufacturer. Those hully-rollers look too complicated, plus I've been told they can damage the hulls of rotomolded 'yaks.
I also have a an auto S 01. I've had it about 2 months now & just past 3000 miles. As I understand it, the break in period is around 5 to 6000 miles. I am getting about 27 mpg. Get some miles on your Forester. At 500 miles, it's no where close to being broken in!
I enjoy reading the posts, and hope to contribute as I put some miles on this new baby.
finally came in last week and I picked it up
yesterday. Got a pretty good deal and no
problems with the dealership. The moonroof
and premium stereo are great!
On the way home, it had a little problem keeping
up with other cars on some steep roads (I have
the automatic) but I didn't push the engine very
much. I did notice two other things - one major
and one minor. First, when the drivers window
is rolled down at all, I can hear a fairly loud,
high-pitched whistling from the wind (maybe
coming from the side view mirror?). If all
the windows are up, it's very nice and quiet.
Second, when I take my foot off the gas, there's
a faint mechanical noise (kind of like a rattling
but maybe more like dragging of little metal
parts across another surface). Everything is
quiet when I'm accelerating. Any ideas?
Definitely want to thank Edmunds and everyone
here for their information and help. Sure made
this car buying experience much better than the
last one! I'm looking forward to many years of
happy Forestering... :-)
ps. Thanks Juice for your reply on the window
tinting and all the other good info in the past!!
I love the AWD on it, now both my cars have AWD.
XT6 90% FWD, 10% RWD
Trooper LS 90%RWD, 10% FWD
(at least those are the numbers before I hit the gas
-mike
After coming home from the mall today, I noticed a scratch up high on the passenger side rear door. Not sure what it was from, but I think someone must have been careless with a cart or something. It is in the shape of a "less than" sign and about 4" across. It is very noticeable on the dark paint as it looks white. I tried a little polishing compound on it, but it's too deep.
It's not bad enough for a re-paint, but bad enough that I'm gonna notice it every time I look at my car. I heard there is some kind of colored wax that helps to hide scratches. Does anyone have any recommendations for making the scratch less noticeable?
I know I'm going get a lot more scratches, but this one is really bothering me.
Thanks in advance for the input.
Skip
Its handling and composure on the road was always competent no matter what the driving conditions (dry/rain, paved/gravel/mud), the rain & paved part being the most prominent conditions this weekend.
To answer the pleas for more power: I was easily keeping up with traffic on the highway from a range of speeds from 60 mph all the way up to 100 mph - no problems, all in 5th gear! (even up hills!) Mind you it's no rocket, but its also not a tinny little thing. That boxer engine sure feels like a small 6 sometimes, and the power is smooth.
For me though, it's the ride and composure that keeps calling me back. It just feels fantastic on the road. The steering is perfect at high speeds. Just a real pleasure to drive. Wish I had more trips to take...
-- ash
I have owned the car for 12 years and have 188K miles on it. I have been shopping for a mid to full size sedan to replace it mainly because I now commute about 50 miles a day and the old 'ru just isn't that comfortable for me anymore. Age, long legs and a bad back make the fit a bad one. Problem is I just can't find a late model used car and deal that is worth making the switch. After all, the subaru is in practically perfect mechanical shape and while freeway entries require some long term planning, the thing just keeps going! I kind of hate to give up on it for something I know won't be nearly as trouble free.
If I could find a way to get a few inches more travel out of the driver's seat, I could possibly delay my search for a while without needing a chiropractor. Does anyone know if there is some type of aftermarket add-on that extends the seat track so I could slide it back a few more inches? Or is there some type of adapter for relocating where the seat connects to the floor?
An odd request, I know, but I thought I'd give it a shot.
DS.