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Thanks for the input, and here are all of the facts now that I have them.
1. Lease Payoff on my car 01 Sebring Limited, is $13,800
2. Audi Dealer on trade in offered me $10,500
3. Audi dealer contacts Leasing Company Aimbridge and they offer dealer a lower payoff amount of $12,200. (This would release me from Lease payments)
4. Visit to CarMax brings an offer of $13,000
5. I contact Aimbridge & they will not offer me anything other than original payoff amount of $13,800. If I can sell the vehicle for anything over the $13,800 then I get the difference. If They sell vehicle to Carmax then it's for the $13,000. :confuse:
So that's how it works I presume. The good news is that I can exit my lease early without a penalty
On a separate note I am negotiating for an Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8. They do not have any in stock with the Colors and Options that I want. :shades:
Right now it appears that I am looking at one that is still being shipped and due here shortly. Unfortunately to get what I want I will also have to take another $3,000 in Options that I really don't need. They are being fair on the sale price
My question is, do you know when they will be shipping the "NEW MODEL" Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.0, which will be replacing the 1.8. Is it worth my while to wait? Can I count on the lease program when they do arrive? Right now with a 60% 36 month Residual and .00175 MF the Payment is fair. They are also willing to sell me the car at $500 over Invoice, which I know is unusual. :confuse:
Thanks again for your input.
Gary
If you were to lease a 2005 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE through NMAC right now for 2 years with 15,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00115 and 69%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 3 year lease should be .00161 and 59%. When negotiating your lease ont his car, keep in mind that Nissan is currently providing $500 lease cash on it.
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The lease deal requires a net cap cost (after dealer discount and money down) of $20,318.82. The residual or $12,698.10 or 54% and the money factor is 0.00113 .
If you plug these numbers in to a lease calculator you get the advertised $249 per month payment.
Even if you negotiated the price down to this amount, you would still need to pay the $595 acquisition fee (higher in some states), refundable security deposit ($250 or $275), first month's payment, any up front taxes, title, tag, and dealer's fees out of pocket at signing. You CAN roll this stuff into the lease, but then your payments will go up.
I plugged in the I4 EX /AT into carsdirect.com and using the Atlanta ZIP code the price comes up $20,263 - which is below the magic number to get the $249 a month lease. But you would still have to pay this other stuff up front or pay more than $249 a month. Also taxes in Florida are applied to the monthly payment and it varies depending on where you live - this is added to the $249 a month payment.
If you can do without the alloy wheels and moonroof the LX is a better lease deal. Same residual percentage, but the money factor is 0.00038 (0.912%) and the car is cheaper. A dealer in KY just quoted me $18,200 for the car including destination and dealer fees. A dealer in GA quoted me even less than this! With the lower price of the car and the lower money factor, you can roll the acq fee and security deposit into the lease and still be under $250 a month. Heck, you could also do a sign and drive and be close to $250 a month (roll in everything, even the first month into the lease and pay nothing - just sign and drive).
Dennis
This was the answer you gave me with my original post up top. Very useful info btw. Thanks so much! But my credit score is 544 and I'm wondering if this will negatively affect the #'s you gave me in the above leasing scenarios. Help!
Thanks - didn't see that. I've been following the Altima deals for a while now - I wish I could have done the deal last month, but there were very good (albeit extremely complicated) reasons why I couldn't.
Thanks again,
Sean
Can you do a sample lease payent for me?
The MSRP is $63, 175.
Work with your dealer before the turn in on the deal. In a lot of cases their purchase price from BMWFS will be less than your buyout price. So you pay them to CPO the car and make a little profit, yet you might not pay much or any more for your car.
I would not get a 3rd party warranty, they can't be used everywhere and go out of business taking your money with them (i.e. Warranty Gold).
Dennis
If you are planning on buying off the end of the lease, be sure to compare the offerings of 3rd party lease banks to the offer from the captive bank (Toyota in your case). Quite often the captives have a higher residual on their stuff to make payments low - which saves you money on the payments but means you pay a good bit more and buyout time. A 3rd party bank may have a lower residual and even a lower money factor, and at the end the buyout will be less.
Dennis
I don't know the answer to that question. You can seek pre-approval for the lease on the Honda Finance web page. If you get it, then at least you can do SOMETHING on the car - but they do not tell you the rate, etc. It is possible that after you got the pre-approval you could call them and ask them about the rate.
Some lease banks are pass/fail - you get approved with a 544 you get the same rate as someone with a 730. Others are tiered, the better your score the lower the rate - in tiers. I do not know what Honda's system is. If you go to leasecompare.com you can get a look at the money factors for the Accord EX lease from a 3rd party bank that uses tiers. Put in 730 and see what rate comes up, then put in 544 and a higher rate should come up.
The good news is that the incentive is better on the Accords this month than last, so the negotiated price should be lower.
Dennis
The Altima lease deal is still nice at a little over 1%. You can also look at the Accord LX I4 AT lease deal. .9% MF on that one and with the incentives you can bargain the price down to where you pay $595 + security + first month + tags/taxes and get it for $199/mo for 36 months.
The Altima deal is super for a short, 24 month term - but I would not want to buy the car and the end of these lease they have jacked up the residual to make the payments low.
Dennis
I put my daughter's name on the car loan for her first new car when she was ready to head off to college. Years later having a paid off car loan on her credit report has made things a lot easier as a recent college grad.
A lot of car lease/finance banks use "auto enhanced" scores - meaning they give more weight to car purchases and leases and payoffs than normal. If you have a strong history of paying off cars, etc then your auto enhanced score would be higher.
Dennis
Anything for April on the RX-8? Last month you posted the $2,000 lease incentive (which was never posted on the Edmund's incentive page) and I was wondering if Mazda had any factory to dealer money on the RX-8 for April? Any lease specials?
Thanks,
Dennis
Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how it goes.
- Sean
Thanks again,
Sean
Please review and tell me if I should work on something better.....
Total Price $31,634
48 mo. lease; 18,000/yr./ $2,000 down including 3% sales tax, title, license, first mo. payment,...no security since I am a repeat AHFC customer.
$484 mo.
Thanks for your help....
My lease through Chase Auto is up in 4 months on my '03 G35 sedan but my dealer is offering to make the final 4 payments and lease me a new G35x now. The catch is that my payment is being calculated based on the MSRP of 39,410 with their justification being that they are making $2100 worth of payments on my remaining lease.
I know this is benefitting them but is this something that I should reasonably expect to happen since I'd be able to get out of my lease earlier? My new payments through IFS would be $549 a month (NJ) for 39 mo 12k. 0 down and 2k due at signing. They said they were using a 4.54 apr so that'd be a .00177 MF, right? The 2 k was 1st month, security, acquisition fee and registration fees
The other option is to finish out my lease and get a new one in August but given interest rates seem headed north, will waiting the 4 mo's result in possibly getting a higher lease payment anyway on an '05 G35x?
Thanks
tcmotorcity
Can you give me an idea if this is a good lease Ininifty 2005 G35 SEDAN
MSRP 32460 Buy 29757 39 months 12k mi year 1285 due at siginig includes tax 8.75% 795 Aquisition fee and First months payment.
2005 Pacifica AWD
26U package
Rear Seat Video
17x7 chrome wheels
Power Moonroof
($36,240 msrp total...options included)
$440 per month (39 months)
$589 due at signing (1st payment, doc, title, license)
taxes rolled into lease (6.5%)
12K per year
$32,811 vehicle price
$17,032 residual
Money Factor .00089
The MSRP will be $46,010 with the options I want and the Invoice price is $41,996.00
I need to have an idea what my payments will be base on 39 months/12k and 15k per year.
Also, 42 months/12k and 15k per year. No down and just incentives.
I am in Florida if that helps.
Thank you.
Sincerely. Miguel.
Could you please let me know what the residuals, money factor and payment would be for an 2005 Audi A4 2.0T through their captive lease company ?
The MSRP of the car is $34,120 and the negotiated selling price would be $ 32,700. The terms I am looking at are 24 months / 12K miles per year and 36 months / 12 K miles per year.
Thanks in advance !
You guys are incredibly helpful.
Thanks again,
Jeff
If there are other BMW dealers fairly close you can go talk to them and see if any of them is willing to give you the buy rate.
You can also run the numbers through a lease calc and see how much paying an extra 0.96% raises your payment and is it worth it. 0.0014 is still less than a 3rd party less bank would charge for the same lease.
To me, any dealer that will not give the buy rate is one I want to avoid and on principle I would not lease with the mark up. But I also don't mind travelling or shipping to get a deal.
Dennis
I have heard that Jag have a very good lease program on CPO vehicles but this guy keeps on trying to sell me on a new car - very annoying.
The vehicle I have in mind is a 1 year old XJ8 for 43,900 (a big saving on the cost of a new car - ouch for that owner!) - I would like to lease it for 2 years at 12,000 per year.
I probably have tier 2 credit.
Thanks a lot for your help.
The guy I got my 330i from several years ago is in Augusta. I flew down and drove it back. My boss got his 540iA from him a couple of years later also with good result. I have sent several folks his way and as far as I know you always get a good deal and get the buy rate.
E-mail me via my profile and I can pass along contact info.
I would negotiate the best price on the truck, then insist on the buy rate. Try it at all the local dealers and see if someone is interested enough to do it. But you can get quotes from these other dealers I mentioned as a comparison.
Dennis
MSRP $24,395
Selling Price $22,822
Loyalty rebate $1000.00
36months/30,000 miles
money factor .00004 ---(0.10% interest)
residual 52%--$12,685
Fees down:
Lease fee $595.00
Docs $388.00
Tags $411.00
First month $255.00
8.1% sales tax $20.67
TTL out of pocket $1669.67
No Cap Reduction
$255.00 per month plus sales tax
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This vehicle comes with all options and a sticker price of about $25700. Edmunds suggests a $1300 discount on it is about what to expect. What kind of deal should I expect with myEquifax credit score of 774?
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As I said earlier, once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value.
If you opt not to purchase your BMW at lease-end, perhaps you can take a nice road trip or two before then to use up your unused miles. If I purchased this car at lease-end I personally would not purchase the extended warranty for $2,000. For two years of coverage, this comes out to almost $84 per month. That is a lot of money. If you are concerned about your car's reliability, which shouldn't be as much of a concern considering its low mileage, you can always stash the $2,000 that you would have spent on the warranty in the bank and use it in case you need to make any out of warranty repairs.
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Thanks again!
Thanks Car_man - this entire site is very informative. I've enjoyed reading up on all this leasing information.