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Comments
My answer was part common sense and part "one hell of a guess", but I figured the PCM has to have something to tell it the positions of crank, cam, and pistons. Gone are the days of vac advance and monkeying with your timing.
Now if anyone can help me with my 835 Ulti MAg and its refusal to put the same steel shot pattern twice in a row on a patterning board, I would be most grateful.
It was too hot a day to stand waiting for geese only to miss once, twice, thrice, four times......until I gave up and hauled out the Benelli only to wistfully gaze at a mile high flock......
Sigh, nice life huh?
BTW... I have read my BOB cover-to-cover several times over.
I bought it from a co worker after fussing around trying to get the 835 to shoot steel shot (waterfowl) reasonably well.
My hunting comrades using brownings, Ithacas, and remingtons were bagging geese quite well.
Yours truly was hitting nothing but sky. SO I got the Benelli, which has better metalurgy than the 835, patterned it, and found it to be quite good at launching steel shot so now I use it to waterfowl hunt.
The 835 had been relegated to turkey and upland game.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Ron35
He also said $170 to do both front and rear diffs, but I opted for rear only. I saw others say
they paid $130 (rear only) or so..I'll find out when I pick it up Wed (9-11-01) night.
Ger
$100 seems like too much. I changed the fluid in my Bronco II a few years ago, and it was a piece of cake. Pull off the cover on the rear, let her drain out, put some silicon "blue goo" on the cover, bolt it back on and fill 'er up. I figure it oughta cost me about $20 for fluid. Does the synthetic still require the friction modifier? Any recommended brands for synthetic gear oil?
The guy who fixed my uncle's Ram said that he does a TON of Dodge and Chevy rear ends. On Fords it's the trannys that go...
I researched the ERAs (Electronic Ratio Adapters) that modify the pulse signals to the PCM from the wheel speed sensors. The problem is I have 4 wheel ABS and I was told by one of the manufactures ( I think it was Abott Industries) that these devices won't work with the new 4 wheel ABS sensors. I believe the speed sensor for the speedo is on the axle and there are 4 ABS speed sensors, one at each wheel. That would be a chunk of change to buy 5 adapters and keep them all in sync.
Can anyone who has an FSM tell me if there are details on PCM programming for tire sizes other than the factory options? Any help is greatly appreciated. For the past year my Overhead computer has been a really expensive compass/thermometer (since the MPG figures are off).
I took it to the dealer who informed me that they were going to change out the rear drums with new ones, and turn the front rotors to correct the problem. They didn't have the parts on hand to fix it that day.
My question to the mechanics among you is :
Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed?
Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon?
Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed? (this is really 2 questions) NO and NO are my answers.
Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon?
Ill bet their computer system that is connected up to virtually ALL dodge dealers is telling them this is the "accepted" (and least expensive) fix for this complaint. Do not forget that the brakes are only on a 12-month warantee... not 3 years like the rest of the vehicle.
Now I have a question for you...How sure are you about the wheels being installed using a TORQUE WRENCH each time they have been rotated?
The problem with Dakota rotors and drums can be summed up in a single word.
J-U-N-K
Solution from what I have seen on other dakota boards is to get away from mexican OEM parts and go with either raybestos or bendix for replacements.
Given the fact that my dealer was willing to do a total replacement of rotors, drums, shoes, pads at no cost to me, I accepted. THe difference is pad/shoe compound which is supposed to dissipate the heat generated from braking better than the original pads.
Nonetheless, next time I have brake issues two events will happen.
1. I will go aftermarket
2. Chrysler will get the rough edge of my tongue.
Anyway, I am wondering why my brakes have no indication of warpage. I brake smoothly ( a minor chirp that never went away) and with no problems mentioned here. Lug torque has been mentioned several times.. and since essentially I have been the only one to mess with them is that a factor afterall??
Just wondering, because if I develop any problems such as mopar67, I plan on immediately going to a good quality after-market rotor and pads, and install them myself; forget the dealer.
However I still feel there are design deficiencies in the dakota brakes.
But the design differences angle is interesting... within a model year.. i should look for the exact born-on date on the door tag.
Boss is mandating decaf going forward.
I told her my keyboard is "warped" and that prevents me from doing any work.
Just got back from elk hunting. My buddy with whom I went hunting with had his 1997 Ford F-250 Diesel Extended cab break down. Considering where we were at (10,500 ft. in the middle of nowhere) I had no other choice but to tow his truck a short distance (less than a 1/2 mile). I put my Dakota in 4WD Low, moved very slowly and my truck seemed to have little trouble (I have a 2000 4.7L V-8, automatic, 30K miles).
My question is:
Considering the heavy weight of the Ford, do you all think that I may have, in anyway, done any damage to my transmission? So far I have not noticed any ill effects. I have not used my truck for towing in the past, though I have had routine service done on the transmission and both differentials. Any input is appreciated.
By the way, I had the last laugh as initially I was given grief by my friends regarding my "small" Dakota. Hmmmm...my "small" truck was very reliable and towed the "big" Ford truck just fine. Of course, I did not let them overlook that fact!
Although you may think the F250 is heavy, you were not pulling the weight. (The ford's wheels were carrying its weight). You were just MOVING it. Unless you pulled it up a VERY steep hill or the its tires were dragging, your truck was barely breathing.
Keep reminding your buddies about your reliable Dakota.
Thanks for all the input in advance.
I have seen other pressure sensors leak at the electrical connector too. (ie...Oil pressure senders)
What year is your dakota?
Well, to answer your question about the wheels being installed with a torque wrench, the wheels
have not been off this rig since the factory put them on.
I did however take your (and mopar67's) advice. I called the dealer, told them no rotor turning,
and to my surprise they said "no problem, we'll replace them". We'll see how long they last.
I really am pretty easy on brakes. I hope this isn't going to be one of those never ending problems.
Is this true? I thought we all learned from Henne that they didn't put synth in at all, even with the towing package??? I have the tow package, but don't want to take chances. Does anybody know???
just my .02 worth
Bookitty
please put synth in your rear!
robert
how could the 00 climate controls please anyone?
sure it absolutely heats in the winter but the cooling has no in between for all the other days here in texas....at least when you have a digital directed thermometer in the cab you can gain some variation in control.
don't get me wrong the unit cools fine but...there is no middle ground.my wifes 01 accord has great climate control....wish my quad did!
slr9589
robert
I too had that problem, mentioned it to my service manager, who shrugged with the I don't know look.
Anyway, I know everyone has been spellbound about my brakes and recall last time everything was replaced, including new type pads and shoes.
SInce then, I have not noticed the clicking sound that used to be there. I inspected the underside and noticed a liberal amount of antiseize was used on the caliper bolts. My guess is they might want to actually take the bolts out the next time?
So, my take is this: Perhaps the old pads and pad clips were the cause of the clicking? ANyone want to entertain thoughts on this?
An 8 foot lenght of 1/2inch pipe insulation (the kind that peels and sticks together)
-and-
1 Roll of Metal-faced, sticky pipe insulation tape.
I used the pipe insulation on ALL 'return' (cold) piping(from firewall thru accumulator to compressor) and from orfice-tube to firewall.
I used the insulation tape on the accumulator and some to seal other various areas that the pipe insulation did not cover.
BOTTOM LINE: I have greatly reduced "cold leakage" into the engine compartment. I get more cold air faster and the compressor runs MUCH less too.
Another mod I intend to make is to insulate the twin-tubes that supply/return hot coolant to the firewall. (these run right over the engine intake manafold) In this case, I hope to reduce underhood temps AND improve people heating in the cold Vermont winters. (SNOW PREDICTED THIS WEEK!)
I had to read thru the product specs in HomeDepot before I made my selections. (Some of the insulation is FOAM based and will melt easilly.)
BTW... The orfaceTube is laying on the right front wheelwell underneath the airfilter housing. The orfaceTube is the start of the "low pressure" side of the system. (Where the cooling actually takes place) To gain access, I found it easier to pull the rubber intake tube off of the airfiler housing. Then remove one bolt and the entire airfilter housing "pops" out from under the hood.
I insulated all metal pipe from The orfaceTube back to the firewall. Its kind of a dumb design that the very coldest part of the cooling system is right next to the exhaust manufold. (AND UNINSULATED)
(Now I wish that I had grabbed the digital camera while I was in there)
Basically you need to check into the following to solve your pinging problem;
I see you have have one of the V8s (318 cubicinch)
There is a known problem with the intake manifold leaking. This allows extra air into the intake that is not "measured" by the computer. Thus the engine runs lean.... A lean running engine runs VERY HOT and will tend to ping loudly under load.
Pinging can also be caused by a buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. These deposits will "glow" red hot and tend to ignite the FA mixture before the sparkplug does.
Here is one persons step-by-step process that finally fixed a pinging problem.
http://www.outreach.psu.edu/users/res122/DSM/
Bookitty
John
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am
An LSD will also be called out on the window sticker. In 2000, it was option DSA by itself and came as part of package 28B
The LSD was NOT available with the option DMC
synthetic or dyno-oil... The LSD needs an additive to keep the clutch cones from chattering around sharp turns.