ok everybody, going forward there are new rules here. Everyone must get a BOB (aka service manual) from techautority.com. When you get it, you do what I did. Read it an hour each night before bed and I guarantee you willnot only learn the intricacies of you dak, but you will find sleep comes sooner and easier than you thought possible. My answer was part common sense and part "one hell of a guess", but I figured the PCM has to have something to tell it the positions of crank, cam, and pistons. Gone are the days of vac advance and monkeying with your timing. Now if anyone can help me with my 835 Ulti MAg and its refusal to put the same steel shot pattern twice in a row on a patterning board, I would be most grateful. It was too hot a day to stand waiting for geese only to miss once, twice, thrice, four times......until I gave up and hauled out the Benelli only to wistfully gaze at a mile high flock...... Sigh, nice life huh?
urbino, Italy. They make the Super NOva pump shotgun. The autoloader is the super black eagle. I bought it from a co worker after fussing around trying to get the 835 to shoot steel shot (waterfowl) reasonably well. My hunting comrades using brownings, Ithacas, and remingtons were bagging geese quite well. Yours truly was hitting nothing but sky. SO I got the Benelli, which has better metalurgy than the 835, patterned it, and found it to be quite good at launching steel shot so now I use it to waterfowl hunt. The 835 had been relegated to turkey and upland game.
I believe that DakotaDigital makes a speedometer adjuster. There are also other companies that make these electronic devices that adjust the frequency of the pulses coming out of the speed sensor. This fools the computer in an appropriate manner.
Well, got her back Fri.. the crankshaft sensor was the fix. Running great, smooth as ever. now, if all this rain would quit, I need to get a good coat of wax on her.
I don't know the details of the calculations, but from what I understand from the shop guys, you can take the circumfrence of the tire and plug it into this formula and put the result into the PCM. I think it is tire rotations per mile, but not sure. I would think that there would be more adjustability than just the 4 tire sizes that the factory offers. You take 2 tires of the same spec size from different makers, heck, even the same maker, and measure them, they won't have the same dimensions. So the only way to get a accurate program is to be able to input the true dimensions. My guess is there is something in the BOB about this, but I don't have it handy...Oh Bpeebles, would you happen to have that info???
dodgetruckn - I have been thinking about changing the differential oil to synthetic in my 2K Dak with 3.92 also. What kind of a price quote did you get for this?
Mopar67....Thanks for the help locating a service manual for my 2000 Dakota Quad. I ordered it last friday so hopefully by the end of this week i'll see it at my doorstep. Cant wait.
Service guy tells me ~ $100 to swap sythetic in the 3.92 LSD rear with friction modifier. He also said $170 to do both front and rear diffs, but I opted for rear only. I saw others say they paid $130 (rear only) or so..I'll find out when I pick it up Wed (9-11-01) night. Ger
Well, I've decided to put the Synthetic in the rear on my Dakota. My uncle had the rear end in his '99 Ram blow out the other week. Only 60k miles, and he only ever towed a 16ft fishing boat with it, and not often.
$100 seems like too much. I changed the fluid in my Bronco II a few years ago, and it was a piece of cake. Pull off the cover on the rear, let her drain out, put some silicon "blue goo" on the cover, bolt it back on and fill 'er up. I figure it oughta cost me about $20 for fluid. Does the synthetic still require the friction modifier? Any recommended brands for synthetic gear oil?
The guy who fixed my uncle's Ram said that he does a TON of Dodge and Chevy rear ends. On Fords it's the trannys that go...
bmwjoe I researched the ERAs (Electronic Ratio Adapters) that modify the pulse signals to the PCM from the wheel speed sensors. The problem is I have 4 wheel ABS and I was told by one of the manufactures ( I think it was Abott Industries) that these devices won't work with the new 4 wheel ABS sensors. I believe the speed sensor for the speedo is on the axle and there are 4 ABS speed sensors, one at each wheel. That would be a chunk of change to buy 5 adapters and keep them all in sync.
Can anyone who has an FSM tell me if there are details on PCM programming for tire sizes other than the factory options? Any help is greatly appreciated. For the past year my Overhead computer has been a really expensive compass/thermometer (since the MPG figures are off).
with two water leaks. 2001 CC 4.7 auto. Found the passenger side carpet soaked. Pulled seats and console and folded carpet back onto the back seat. Reinstalled seats. Drove truck on a sunny day with air on. Water observed running down from behind dash. Found that water from the evaporator drain was being blown back along the drain and back into the cab. Pulled splash shield from right wheel well, sealed the area and installed a drain tube fabricated from a 1/2 inch pvc elbow and 18 inches of flexible pvc hose. Less than two dollars from my local Home Depot. I thought I was done. Before I could get the carpet put back down I got caught in a heavy rain and about a quart of water ended up on the floor. Traced leak to the windshield, about 5 inches in from the top right corner. Sealed area and so far so good. Still love this truck!!!!
With 11, 462 miles on my 2001 QC, I thought the rotors were warped when the steering wheel started to shake braking from freeway speeds. I took it to the dealer who informed me that they were going to change out the rear drums with new ones, and turn the front rotors to correct the problem. They didn't have the parts on hand to fix it that day. My question to the mechanics among you is : Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed? Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon?
Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed? (this is really 2 questions) NO and NO are my answers.
Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon? Ill bet their computer system that is connected up to virtually ALL dodge dealers is telling them this is the "accepted" (and least expensive) fix for this complaint. Do not forget that the brakes are only on a 12-month warantee... not 3 years like the rest of the vehicle.
Now I have a question for you...How sure are you about the wheels being installed using a TORQUE WRENCH each time they have been rotated?
Given the thin metal on today's rotors, the turning of a rotor removes metal thus making it thinner and therefore more prone to warpage. In other words, the cure is worse than the disease. The problem with Dakota rotors and drums can be summed up in a single word. J-U-N-K Solution from what I have seen on other dakota boards is to get away from mexican OEM parts and go with either raybestos or bendix for replacements. Given the fact that my dealer was willing to do a total replacement of rotors, drums, shoes, pads at no cost to me, I accepted. THe difference is pad/shoe compound which is supposed to dissipate the heat generated from braking better than the original pads. Nonetheless, next time I have brake issues two events will happen. 1. I will go aftermarket 2. Chrysler will get the rough edge of my tongue.
mopar67, bpeebles.. with all that has happened lately, I have been working extra hours on our contract. Now I have finally caught up on this string. With everyones problems with brakes (mopar67 is the lead jester there). I want to ask something. Since I have a 2000 SLT+ with T&H, i suspect I have the "same" hardware and roughly the same conditions as you. I'm currently at 34,500 miles (yikes, I drive ALOT.but my rig rides so well i hadnt noticed the miles)..and the dealer only rotated the tires ONCE when I was concerned with minor grooved in my rotors. I rotated the tires myself shortly after anyway. I even rotated them myself at about 5,000 miles. (not for any mechanical reason, really. I just wanted to play with my rig and get to poke around) Anyway, I am wondering why my brakes have no indication of warpage. I brake smoothly ( a minor chirp that never went away) and with no problems mentioned here. Lug torque has been mentioned several times.. and since essentially I have been the only one to mess with them is that a factor afterall?? Just wondering, because if I develop any problems such as mopar67, I plan on immediately going to a good quality after-market rotor and pads, and install them myself; forget the dealer.
I grew up in Indiana where the roads are straight and flat. ITs a different story here with hills and everything so I do use the brakes a lot. However I still feel there are design deficiencies in the dakota brakes.
mopar67... yes i was THINKING (but neglected to mention) of hills and all (RAIN we have.. lots of it) as a factor, where here in New Orleans.. a hill is an on-ramp... But the design differences angle is interesting... within a model year.. i should look for the exact born-on date on the door tag.
I have a '01 QC, 4.7L, auto, 2wd Sport. I began having brake squeal problems at times when I was breaking from about 60 mph. Gradually, it got more frequent and at lower speeds (but no shaking the steering wheel ever). Right before I took it in for some other warranty work at the local 5 star Chrysler dealer, I had a devil of a time trying to get the truck to make this noise. Anyway, when I picked it up, the service manager told me they had 'sanded the drums', and they could find nothing wrong with the front brakes or rotors. Still have the sound evry so often. Does this make any sense?
and just got peeled off the celing by coworkers for the fourth time today. Boss is mandating decaf going forward. I told her my keyboard is "warped" and that prevents me from doing any work.
Just got back from elk hunting. My buddy with whom I went hunting with had his 1997 Ford F-250 Diesel Extended cab break down. Considering where we were at (10,500 ft. in the middle of nowhere) I had no other choice but to tow his truck a short distance (less than a 1/2 mile). I put my Dakota in 4WD Low, moved very slowly and my truck seemed to have little trouble (I have a 2000 4.7L V-8, automatic, 30K miles).
My question is:
Considering the heavy weight of the Ford, do you all think that I may have, in anyway, done any damage to my transmission? So far I have not noticed any ill effects. I have not used my truck for towing in the past, though I have had routine service done on the transmission and both differentials. Any input is appreciated.
By the way, I had the last laugh as initially I was given grief by my friends regarding my "small" Dakota. Hmmmm...my "small" truck was very reliable and towed the "big" Ford truck just fine. Of course, I did not let them overlook that fact!
No worries. Your 4WD Dakota is a real TRUCK. (not like most other "small" trucks ) While in 4WDlow pulling a load, the 'load' on the tranny is perhaps similar to normal driving at 65MPH with no load.
Although you may think the F250 is heavy, you were not pulling the weight. (The ford's wheels were carrying its weight). You were just MOVING it. Unless you pulled it up a VERY steep hill or the its tires were dragging, your truck was barely breathing.
Keep reminding your buddies about your reliable Dakota.
I'm going to change the oil in the diffs to synthetic however i'm wondering if there is an easier way to do it. The BOB says to actually remove the cover to drain but i'm wondering if you can use one of those suction devices through the fill plug to drain the old fluid. Also I appear to have developed a fluid seepage around the bottom of the transmission oil pan. Anybody else experienced this yet? Thanks for all the input in advance.
I had a small leak that appeared to be the pan leaking. I just happened to look up the side of the transmission and noticed fluid on the plug to the line pressure sensor. I pulled the plug and found that fluid was leaking from the pins in the sensor. Replaced the sensor and the leak went away. Sensor located on right side near the back of the transmission protected by a heat shield.
I've got an 01 CC, 4.7, auto. I know that I could have had the dealer fix it under warranty but I have been taking care of my vehicles for about forty five years and I dread having someone else working on one of them. When I went to the dealer to order the sensor the Parts Manager told me that the Distribution Center would not release the part unless a Dealer mechanic verified the problem even though I was paying for the part. I ordered online from Kohler Dodge. Total cost was $45. No hassles, no dings, no waiting.....etc.
Well, to answer your question about the wheels being installed with a torque wrench, the wheels have not been off this rig since the factory put them on. I did however take your (and mopar67's) advice. I called the dealer, told them no rotor turning, and to my surprise they said "no problem, we'll replace them". We'll see how long they last. I really am pretty easy on brakes. I hope this isn't going to be one of those never ending problems.
Unfortunatly, dino oil and synthetics don't mix well. With the suction devices, you aren't able to get all of the old oil out. I would recommend letting the rig sit overnight to let the majority of old oil drain back to the pumpkin area, and pull the cover. Any changes done after the switch can be done with a suction device. One suggestion on those though, forget the ones in the auto store, most don't fit a std. qt. bottle for refilling, get one used for boats. they have longer hoses and fit a std qt. bottle. I've done both diffs on mine and since, with the towing pkg. they were syn to start with, I just pumped them out. Messy. the front diff hole is so close to the steering it's ridiculous.
Woaaahh, hold on a sec there. "since, with the towing pkg. they were syn to start with"
Is this true? I thought we all learned from Henne that they didn't put synth in at all, even with the towing package??? I have the tow package, but don't want to take chances. Does anybody know???
I had the dealer put the synth in after I installed the mopar tow harware myself.. I have it in writing they used the proper fluid. With my warantee QUICKLY running out (35,000 miles already).. I'm taking NO chances just my .02 worth
My memory could be faulty, I could have swore that at some point we figured out that there was syn in the tow pkg rigs. I'll have to go back through the postings....I hope I'm not wrong otherwise I'd better rip open my diffs ASAP.
Harold, if my memory serves me correctly, the reason that Robert (henne) incurred problems with the rear was that although required, the factory does not install synthetic lubricant even though the tow package is ordered on the truck. I believe that the requirement may only address certain towing weight loads, but I am not certain. Robert was misinformed by the service manager at the dealership who claimed that if the factory tow package was installed, then the synthetic lubricant was part of the package. It turned out that he was incorrect, and that is one of the reasons that D/C did a buy-back on Robert's unit.
bookitty is correct. my dealer told me that synth was in the rear and i towed about 5000lbs about 5 of the 15k miles on my truck and it tore up the rearend. when i took the truck to the shop in another state they said that my dealer was wrong and then the dodge rep got involved and believe it or not my dealer admitted this misinformation. well when the smoke settled i got a 2001 replacement for my 2000 and now all is fine except i like the 2000 dash, cupholders and air conditioning better.
henne, how could the 00 climate controls please anyone? sure it absolutely heats in the winter but the cooling has no in between for all the other days here in texas....at least when you have a digital directed thermometer in the cab you can gain some variation in control. don't get me wrong the unit cools fine but...there is no middle ground.my wifes 01 accord has great climate control....wish my quad did! slr9589
with all of the advise on here. Thank you. One more question regarding switching to synthetic oil in the differentials. I'm trying to decide between Mobil 1 and Amsoil for the change. Any thoughts or has anyone done the research between the two products. I see that amsoil also makes motor oil but i have already been using Mobil 1 since about 5000 miles on the 4.7. Pushing 19000 miles on my 2000 Quad and loving every minute of it....John
im not impressed with the ability to set a certain temp on the 00, i am however more impressed with the 00 ability to cool the cab fast and keep it cool. the 01 is not very impressive in the cold area and i have checked the charge on mine and others also and have concluded in my experiences the 00 will get cold and the 01 will just mearly cool on hot/humid days.
If I recall, there have been some posts here on the "clicking" coming from the front end during turns at slow speeds (ie parking lot speeds) I too had that problem, mentioned it to my service manager, who shrugged with the I don't know look. Anyway, I know everyone has been spellbound about my brakes and recall last time everything was replaced, including new type pads and shoes. SInce then, I have not noticed the clicking sound that used to be there. I inspected the underside and noticed a liberal amount of antiseize was used on the caliper bolts. My guess is they might want to actually take the bolts out the next time? So, my take is this: Perhaps the old pads and pad clips were the cause of the clicking? ANyone want to entertain thoughts on this?
I made some mods to my AC system with less than $10 of stuff from home depot.
An 8 foot lenght of 1/2inch pipe insulation (the kind that peels and sticks together) -and- 1 Roll of Metal-faced, sticky pipe insulation tape.
I used the pipe insulation on ALL 'return' (cold) piping(from firewall thru accumulator to compressor) and from orfice-tube to firewall.
I used the insulation tape on the accumulator and some to seal other various areas that the pipe insulation did not cover.
BOTTOM LINE: I have greatly reduced "cold leakage" into the engine compartment. I get more cold air faster and the compressor runs MUCH less too.
Another mod I intend to make is to insulate the twin-tubes that supply/return hot coolant to the firewall. (these run right over the engine intake manafold) In this case, I hope to reduce underhood temps AND improve people heating in the cold Vermont winters. (SNOW PREDICTED THIS WEEK!)
you posting your A/C "mods' and now that you refreshed my/our memory. i went ahead and printed the post..you say you get better performance in temps, both directions.. but you also said the obvious benefit is the compressor runs LESS. An engineering basic to you, I'm sure, but a lesson for me . I plan on applying your mods shortly.. thanks!
I have a question I was hoping you guys might be able to help me with. I have a 98 Dakota club cab 4x4 318 auto that I bought used about a year and a half ago with 36,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles. My question is ever since I bought it, it has had a noise that I am positive is coming from the engine. It is a clicking sound that is most noticeable when the transmission is in third gear and you are going up a hill or just have a load on the engine. Just cruising you can't hear it. And when the engine is turning high rpm's (in any gear) you can't hear it, but that might just be because the engine is louder at higher rpm's. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse since I've had it, and there is no loss in power, performance, or mileage. Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.
Just make sure the materials you select to insulate various AC components can withstand the underhood tempertures.
I had to read thru the product specs in HomeDepot before I made my selections. (Some of the insulation is FOAM based and will melt easilly.)
BTW... The orfaceTube is laying on the right front wheelwell underneath the airfilter housing. The orfaceTube is the start of the "low pressure" side of the system. (Where the cooling actually takes place) To gain access, I found it easier to pull the rubber intake tube off of the airfiler housing. Then remove one bolt and the entire airfilter housing "pops" out from under the hood.
I insulated all metal pipe from The orfaceTube back to the firewall. Its kind of a dumb design that the very coldest part of the cooling system is right next to the exhaust manufold. (AND UNINSULATED)
(Now I wish that I had grabbed the digital camera while I was in there)
Basically you need to check into the following to solve your pinging problem;
ignition timing too advanced (Not really adjustable)
Engine running too lean (intake leak)
Engine running too hot (cooling system prob.)
carbon buildup in combustion chambers
I see you have have one of the V8s (318 cubicinch)
There is a known problem with the intake manifold leaking. This allows extra air into the intake that is not "measured" by the computer. Thus the engine runs lean.... A lean running engine runs VERY HOT and will tend to ping loudly under load.
Pinging can also be caused by a buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. These deposits will "glow" red hot and tend to ignite the FA mixture before the sparkplug does.
Here is one persons step-by-step process that finally fixed a pinging problem.
Some of you may remember I had a stubbling/stalling problem. Showed the dealer the info I got off this board and they did the tsb. Problem solved. Now after a week or 2 later it seems like I have a long crank time before it starts up. If I let the truck sit for a few hours, it'll crank for a couple seconds as opposed to the half second it used to start in. I am only just over 10,000. Had dealer look into it and they said, no trouble codes, no tsb's. Any help from you guys? 2000 Quad Cab 4.7
be aware of the materials, and I printed your last post. hmmm pix would help, but your descriptions were quite detailed.. I think part of this upcoming weekend will be spent under my daks hood.. and of course rotating my beer cooler stock.
Eric, I experienced this problem in my 1995 Dakota(318) and it turned out to be a check valve that prevents fuel from returning through the supply lines. This causes the "prime" to be lost and the cranking is necessary to replenish the fuel pressure. Starting soon after shutdown was not affected, but longer waits required the extra cranking. This is a problem that is quite common in diesel engines as well. Sometimes the pressure may be lost or diminished within the injector pump itself. At least it is something to think about and check out at the dealership. Good luck.
but i'll ask it anyway. I know I have the 3.55 rear end in my 2000 Dakota Quad but what i'm not sure of is if i have LSD. I need to know this before I add the synthetic oil. Where on the truck or on the window sticker that lists options and price can i find this info. Also any thoughts about Amsoil vs Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube. Thank You
(jhorl) There is a metal 'tag' under one of the differential cover bolts. This tag indicates contents at time the cover was installed.
An LSD will also be called out on the window sticker. In 2000, it was option DSA by itself and came as part of package 28B The LSD was NOT available with the option DMC
synthetic or dyno-oil... The LSD needs an additive to keep the clutch cones from chattering around sharp turns.
Comments
My answer was part common sense and part "one hell of a guess", but I figured the PCM has to have something to tell it the positions of crank, cam, and pistons. Gone are the days of vac advance and monkeying with your timing.
Now if anyone can help me with my 835 Ulti MAg and its refusal to put the same steel shot pattern twice in a row on a patterning board, I would be most grateful.
It was too hot a day to stand waiting for geese only to miss once, twice, thrice, four times......until I gave up and hauled out the Benelli only to wistfully gaze at a mile high flock......
Sigh, nice life huh?
BTW... I have read my BOB cover-to-cover several times over.
I bought it from a co worker after fussing around trying to get the 835 to shoot steel shot (waterfowl) reasonably well.
My hunting comrades using brownings, Ithacas, and remingtons were bagging geese quite well.
Yours truly was hitting nothing but sky. SO I got the Benelli, which has better metalurgy than the 835, patterned it, and found it to be quite good at launching steel shot so now I use it to waterfowl hunt.
The 835 had been relegated to turkey and upland game.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Ron35
He also said $170 to do both front and rear diffs, but I opted for rear only. I saw others say
they paid $130 (rear only) or so..I'll find out when I pick it up Wed (9-11-01) night.
Ger
$100 seems like too much. I changed the fluid in my Bronco II a few years ago, and it was a piece of cake. Pull off the cover on the rear, let her drain out, put some silicon "blue goo" on the cover, bolt it back on and fill 'er up. I figure it oughta cost me about $20 for fluid. Does the synthetic still require the friction modifier? Any recommended brands for synthetic gear oil?
The guy who fixed my uncle's Ram said that he does a TON of Dodge and Chevy rear ends. On Fords it's the trannys that go...
I researched the ERAs (Electronic Ratio Adapters) that modify the pulse signals to the PCM from the wheel speed sensors. The problem is I have 4 wheel ABS and I was told by one of the manufactures ( I think it was Abott Industries) that these devices won't work with the new 4 wheel ABS sensors. I believe the speed sensor for the speedo is on the axle and there are 4 ABS speed sensors, one at each wheel. That would be a chunk of change to buy 5 adapters and keep them all in sync.
Can anyone who has an FSM tell me if there are details on PCM programming for tire sizes other than the factory options? Any help is greatly appreciated. For the past year my Overhead computer has been a really expensive compass/thermometer (since the MPG figures are off).
I took it to the dealer who informed me that they were going to change out the rear drums with new ones, and turn the front rotors to correct the problem. They didn't have the parts on hand to fix it that day.
My question to the mechanics among you is :
Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed?
Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon?
Would you let the dealer turn these rotors or is there a chance of getting upgraded (improved ) rotors/pads installed? (this is really 2 questions) NO and NO are my answers.
Why wouldn't they also just turn the drums is this were a good solution for front brakes that warp this soon?
Ill bet their computer system that is connected up to virtually ALL dodge dealers is telling them this is the "accepted" (and least expensive) fix for this complaint. Do not forget that the brakes are only on a 12-month warantee... not 3 years like the rest of the vehicle.
Now I have a question for you...How sure are you about the wheels being installed using a TORQUE WRENCH each time they have been rotated?
The problem with Dakota rotors and drums can be summed up in a single word.
J-U-N-K
Solution from what I have seen on other dakota boards is to get away from mexican OEM parts and go with either raybestos or bendix for replacements.
Given the fact that my dealer was willing to do a total replacement of rotors, drums, shoes, pads at no cost to me, I accepted. THe difference is pad/shoe compound which is supposed to dissipate the heat generated from braking better than the original pads.
Nonetheless, next time I have brake issues two events will happen.
1. I will go aftermarket
2. Chrysler will get the rough edge of my tongue.
Anyway, I am wondering why my brakes have no indication of warpage. I brake smoothly ( a minor chirp that never went away) and with no problems mentioned here. Lug torque has been mentioned several times.. and since essentially I have been the only one to mess with them is that a factor afterall??
Just wondering, because if I develop any problems such as mopar67, I plan on immediately going to a good quality after-market rotor and pads, and install them myself; forget the dealer.
However I still feel there are design deficiencies in the dakota brakes.
But the design differences angle is interesting... within a model year.. i should look for the exact born-on date on the door tag.
Boss is mandating decaf going forward.
I told her my keyboard is "warped" and that prevents me from doing any work.
Just got back from elk hunting. My buddy with whom I went hunting with had his 1997 Ford F-250 Diesel Extended cab break down. Considering where we were at (10,500 ft. in the middle of nowhere) I had no other choice but to tow his truck a short distance (less than a 1/2 mile). I put my Dakota in 4WD Low, moved very slowly and my truck seemed to have little trouble (I have a 2000 4.7L V-8, automatic, 30K miles).
My question is:
Considering the heavy weight of the Ford, do you all think that I may have, in anyway, done any damage to my transmission? So far I have not noticed any ill effects. I have not used my truck for towing in the past, though I have had routine service done on the transmission and both differentials. Any input is appreciated.
By the way, I had the last laugh as initially I was given grief by my friends regarding my "small" Dakota. Hmmmm...my "small" truck was very reliable and towed the "big" Ford truck just fine. Of course, I did not let them overlook that fact!
Although you may think the F250 is heavy, you were not pulling the weight. (The ford's wheels were carrying its weight). You were just MOVING it. Unless you pulled it up a VERY steep hill or the its tires were dragging, your truck was barely breathing.
Keep reminding your buddies about your reliable Dakota.
Thanks for all the input in advance.
I have seen other pressure sensors leak at the electrical connector too. (ie...Oil pressure senders)
What year is your dakota?
Well, to answer your question about the wheels being installed with a torque wrench, the wheels
have not been off this rig since the factory put them on.
I did however take your (and mopar67's) advice. I called the dealer, told them no rotor turning,
and to my surprise they said "no problem, we'll replace them". We'll see how long they last.
I really am pretty easy on brakes. I hope this isn't going to be one of those never ending problems.
Is this true? I thought we all learned from Henne that they didn't put synth in at all, even with the towing package??? I have the tow package, but don't want to take chances. Does anybody know???
just my .02 worth
Bookitty
please put synth in your rear!
robert
how could the 00 climate controls please anyone?
sure it absolutely heats in the winter but the cooling has no in between for all the other days here in texas....at least when you have a digital directed thermometer in the cab you can gain some variation in control.
don't get me wrong the unit cools fine but...there is no middle ground.my wifes 01 accord has great climate control....wish my quad did!
slr9589
robert
I too had that problem, mentioned it to my service manager, who shrugged with the I don't know look.
Anyway, I know everyone has been spellbound about my brakes and recall last time everything was replaced, including new type pads and shoes.
SInce then, I have not noticed the clicking sound that used to be there. I inspected the underside and noticed a liberal amount of antiseize was used on the caliper bolts. My guess is they might want to actually take the bolts out the next time?
So, my take is this: Perhaps the old pads and pad clips were the cause of the clicking? ANyone want to entertain thoughts on this?
An 8 foot lenght of 1/2inch pipe insulation (the kind that peels and sticks together)
-and-
1 Roll of Metal-faced, sticky pipe insulation tape.
I used the pipe insulation on ALL 'return' (cold) piping(from firewall thru accumulator to compressor) and from orfice-tube to firewall.
I used the insulation tape on the accumulator and some to seal other various areas that the pipe insulation did not cover.
BOTTOM LINE: I have greatly reduced "cold leakage" into the engine compartment. I get more cold air faster and the compressor runs MUCH less too.
Another mod I intend to make is to insulate the twin-tubes that supply/return hot coolant to the firewall. (these run right over the engine intake manafold) In this case, I hope to reduce underhood temps AND improve people heating in the cold Vermont winters. (SNOW PREDICTED THIS WEEK!)
I had to read thru the product specs in HomeDepot before I made my selections. (Some of the insulation is FOAM based and will melt easilly.)
BTW... The orfaceTube is laying on the right front wheelwell underneath the airfilter housing. The orfaceTube is the start of the "low pressure" side of the system. (Where the cooling actually takes place) To gain access, I found it easier to pull the rubber intake tube off of the airfiler housing. Then remove one bolt and the entire airfilter housing "pops" out from under the hood.
I insulated all metal pipe from The orfaceTube back to the firewall. Its kind of a dumb design that the very coldest part of the cooling system is right next to the exhaust manufold. (AND UNINSULATED)
(Now I wish that I had grabbed the digital camera while I was in there)
Basically you need to check into the following to solve your pinging problem;
I see you have have one of the V8s (318 cubicinch)
There is a known problem with the intake manifold leaking. This allows extra air into the intake that is not "measured" by the computer. Thus the engine runs lean.... A lean running engine runs VERY HOT and will tend to ping loudly under load.
Pinging can also be caused by a buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. These deposits will "glow" red hot and tend to ignite the FA mixture before the sparkplug does.
Here is one persons step-by-step process that finally fixed a pinging problem.
http://www.outreach.psu.edu/users/res122/DSM/
Bookitty
John
KarenS "Dodge Dakota Owners: Events" Sep 24, 2001 8:16am
An LSD will also be called out on the window sticker. In 2000, it was option DSA by itself and came as part of package 28B
The LSD was NOT available with the option DMC
synthetic or dyno-oil... The LSD needs an additive to keep the clutch cones from chattering around sharp turns.