My Present 2001 ordered directly from the the Factory, recieved 8 August 2000, QC 4x4, LSD, 3.55 T&H, HD everything, Amberfire, 4.7L auto AWD, tow pkg factory installed, I got everything except for Leather, sliding rear window, an cd-in-dash, and I have the TITLE..
Now with that out of the way.
11,500 is my present mileage.
Here In Houston TX, It has finally started to have outside temps, in the morning's of around 50 degree's, When I go to START my QC for the first time, ( COLD ) in the morning, the QC starts, and Hesitates.... Stumbles..... ( for about the first 0-30 seconds ) I dont Touch the gas when starting, Should I ? Sometime's I touch the gas an the engine is ok then. Then runs fine after that?
Is this Normal?
I always Drive the Truck Imediately upon Starting it, I never let it Idle to warm-up! As I am of the belief that it is better to have the Engine work/drive lightly till the engine reaches operating tempature before getting on the GAS !
What, if anything, should I check for?
P.S. Since I have the Tow Pkg and I presently don't do any towing yet, later I will. Does My rear-end have Dino Oil in it? or does it have Synth in it? is it p.p.s or p.s.s. whatever... Should I go-ahead and replace the Rear-end oil with synth? How long does the Rear-end oil good for time or milage wise? Same for the Synth Oil, How long does it last before it needs to be changed?
welcome to the stumbling idle club, my co-conspirator ahahser and myself greet you and are honored to have you amongst our ranks. Your initiation is complete. You have transcended the day to day normal running of the 4.7. engine. Now for the fix...yes, there is a fix for this. You need to pound your dealer until they get the TSB for this which involves an update to your PCM to cure this. I had mine done last March and have had no trouble since. Ahahser could probably dig out the TSB number since I never got it printed on my invoice. I have since run the gamut of 90's all the way down to 30's and the idle is good, smooth, and steady. Good luck!
as mopar 67 said we are the "jesters" and co-conspirators here. We both went ahead with the PCm flash for this but a couple of comments then the TSP info. First, IF you are having the same problem as us, teh symptoms are essentially; Cold start does and almost stalling, idle "searching" til it setles down.. Coming to as stop usually after highway speeds, (engine temp is not the issue) and when u come to that stop teh engine idle "searches" at or below 500 or so.. and never really smooths out till u accelerate again which is mormal. No symptoms while driving, power and acceleration was fine. However my rig stalled and tried to stall many times.. but mostly was a VERY noticeable rough feel as it idled when stopped. Second, as bpeebles did/can attest, there are 2 sides to this.. one fixes the idle to somewhere around 600 or so.. where before it was at or BELOW 500 or so...always hunting for a happy place. The other side is technical dealing with retarded timing and loss of HP.. Ask bpeebles if U need more details..
So after thee fix, smoooooth idle but I noticed it had to "relearn" me again.. but that settled down quickly. I believe I saw some loss of initial acceleration power at first but now it seems back to normal.. Ok the TSB:
CAUSE: FLASH MODULE 08194496 VEHICLE PERFORMANCE; COLD START HESITATION - TSB 18-08-96 152 W40 1 4275086 LABEL - GENERAL INFORMATION 1 4669020 LABEL - AUTHORIZED SOFTWARE FC: FM PART # 4275086 and at the bottom: 26306 (CHK IDLE) FLASH MODULE 08194496 .5 TSB 18-01-01 FLASHED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.
OK - I really need some advice from you guys so I will try this again. I have a '01 QC, 4.7L, auto, 2wd Sport. I began having brake squeal problems at times when I was breaking from about 60 mph. Gradually, it got more frequent and at lower speeds (but no shaking the steering wheel ever). Right before I took it in for some other warranty work at the local 5 star Chrysler dealer, I had a devil of a time trying to get the truck to make this noise. Anyway, when I picked it up, the service manager told me they had 'sanded the drums', and they could find nothing wrong with the front brakes or rotors. For a while , there was no sound, however, I am beginning to hear the sound more and more often. Does this ('sanding the drums') make any sense? What could the reason be?
this might or might-not help, but I have had brake 'chirping" squeal for a while now on my '00 with T&H package, and finally did somethign about it. the dealer looked at my rotors on 2 visits. and said the drone-like "thats normal". My rotors have slight grooves inside and out. Nothing deep, but very noticeable. Other vehicles rotors are smooth looking??!! Anyway no dealer help. This past weekend me and my beer cooler took both calipers off, THOURGHLY cleaned the pads and then applied that blue brake squeal goop to the back of the pads. So far conditions that normally gave me the chirp/squeal has been silent. I'm happy so far, but only time will tell. btw, my pads looked hardy worn at all (35,000 miles so far) and the rotors have no warp, jitter or warpage as others have seen.
Thanks for the help. I didn't have the squeal (I call it that because it sounds more than a chirp to me) for a while after the dealer worked on it. It has returned, so I'll try and take it back in this week. I'll let you know the results. BTW, I have the T&H package, too. Surely brake problems are not just evident in QC's with that package??
Does anybody know what N-TRK means on the sticker wrapped around the rear axle. Mine says 3.55 followed by N-TRK and then 9.25. Also I hadn't had any luck getting input on the best synthetic fluid to put in the differentials. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You John
Asking most people which oil is best is kinda like who's burgers are better McDonalds or BK. There are strong views for all brands. Personally, I use Valvoline for all my oils, The most important thing is you do change it. Pick whatever brand you like in the right viscosity. The N-TRK is probably some build code used by Dana to identify what end use it's for.
I have used Mobile 1 5W30 since the fist change. Except Mobile 1 filters... mopar67 why purolator? I'm no expert here.. just go by recommendations.. better than Mobile??
01' AWD 4x4 with the 3.92's Thanks to this and other lists, I was on the watch for the brake issues and aware of the 12k qwarranty. At 10k I began to nitice the telltale pulse, Isolated to the front by braking with park brake and took it in for service. They turned the rotors .20 and called it good. It was my own fault for not being specific. As Mopar posted. It seems a hard stop will cause this to happen in many cases. I had a dodge the dodge game with a deer and never locked them up but was on them hard for a period of time and lo and behold, I began to notice the pulse soon after, at about 12k or so, I was on a long trip and did not get back till 14k and promptly called the dealer, taking it in tomorrow, the service rep said they will replace them. I'll follow up and let ya know what happens Brett
I've been using Mobil 1 5W30 since about 4000 miles with the Mobil 1 Oil Filter. Expensive with its 6qt Capacity but well worth it in my eyes. I know Mobil also produces a Synthetic Rear end fluid 75W90 i think and I'm wondering if it is as good as Amsoil or Redline. Also has anybody seen that infomercial on Durashine. I found it in my auto parts store today and picked some up. I guess they say water dosent bead but rather sheets off the car eliminating spots and the need to dry with the chamois. I've got the patriot blue so its hard to keep the damn spots off. Is there anyone using this product yet or is it just a gimmic. I'll keep everyone posted on the results. John
(jhorl) The 9.25 is the DIAMATOR of the differential. (there is 8.25 and 9.25 inch) (with 10 and 12 bolts on the covers respectivly)
Do you have the 4X4?... I think the 8.25 is only on the 2WD. (but have never verified it.)
As for which synth to use.... any brand name will be just fine. You will NEVER even approach the limits of lubrication with any of them. (Unless you tow more than the maximum rated weight at 80 MPH for hours at a time ;-)
(bpeebles)..Thanks for your input on the diff oil. Will probably go with the Mobil 1 just to keep some similarity in lubricants in the truck. My truck is 4X4 and I do have the 12 bolt 9.25 rear axle 3.55. Dont think that I have LSD after looking for the signs that all you guys suggested. I have 19000 miles now with no towing yet so I hope I'm not too late adding the synthetic. Again..Thanks for all your help. John
I use to use Purolator when I started driving, then got off on Frams...that is until I read the web page that did not exactly endear me to Fram filters again...its a link off allpar.com. To wit, I secured a fram and using my trusty hack saw, cut off the outer casing and saw exactly what the other guy saw. Cardboard end caps, plastic anti-drainback valve, and off centered filter media. Thinking this must have been one built on a Friday, I went out and got another one. Same thing. Proof positive for me! So I went back to Purolator. Never used a Mobil 1 filter, so I don't know much about it. I figured quality had to go no where but down when wally world started selling fram.
well I'll go with Mobile 1 filters since i have used it since diaper change # 1.. seems tho that aside from wally-world brands.. we end up with the "great taste, less filling" debate. Either way a good filter is still more $$ but for my 23K investment.. no contest. Beer cooler stocked, Oil/filter ready for the weekend..
If it seems too good to be true...it probably is I should have left my recently waxed truck alone however I was a victim of an infomercial. Durashine..the revolutionary product that prevents water from beading and therefore water spots is the worst finish I have ever applied to my beloved finish. Oh well... had to rewash and re wax truck after I used that garbage but I used Zymbol and what a finish. I remember somebody suggesting that some time ago and it is the best wax I've ever used. All in one day I saw the two extremes of automotive finishes. Anyway a word of caution... Stay away from Durashine. John
Back from the dealer. Both A arms are to be replaced for the popping noise. Also the rotors will be replaced under warrenty as the service dude said. I asked when I dropped the truck off to have the pads replaced as well due to the potential heat retention problem and he refused to do that. I can deal with that one I guess although I would have preferred they be replaced but figured to replace the rotors and pads at 25-30k if I get that from them. I was a bit disapointed in this service experience. I had an oil change performed as well and there was oil all over the skid plates this time and not cleaned off very well. I also asked that if they could have the parts tomorrow and install them. they said sure,I I said then that as I stated in the drop off that I would need a truck as I am moving a ladder tomorrow. They assured me it would be done today which I figured was a tad mis-leading since they probably had a decent idea the A arms were the cause of the popping. Anyway, I picked it up tonight they will call when parts arrive and set appt. The sat survey will hear my displeasure. My take is that if a part fails during the warranty period, the customer should not be out of pocket any money nor inconvience if at all possible.
John, I share your experience with Durashine. I had a brand-new Isuzu Rodeo (shiny black). I put that Durashine on and I was shocked!!! I had to take it to a Ziebart Detail shop and pay over $100 to repair the badly ruined finish. I cannot believe they {Durashine} sell such a lousy product and lie as they do. Durashine has to be the biggest rip-off I have ever experienced in my lifetime.
Anyway, I sent it back for a full refund, but still could not shake all of the junk mail that came as a result of my ordering. Guess the selling of my name and address was more important than making a product that lives up to it's claims.
Got the following from a web site when I was searching on dodge truck engines.
Just a note, in the April 1999 Mopar Action there is an article on the new Chrysler 287 V8. Take a look at the picture of the cylinder heads, the caption calls them Semi-hemispherical, they then call it "state of the art combustion technology." If you look closely at those heads the valve set up looks an awful lot like a poly combustion chamber, which is also called semi-hemi. Could this be a case of Chysler looking back to build on the future?
This is why I have been saying all along that the 4.7L can be considerd a HEMI engine. Some hard-core hemi folks have inspected the heads of the 287ci and given their nod of approval to using the HEMI name.
The 4.7 has "D" shaped combustion chambers therefore it is in no way a Hemi. A hemi has true hemispherical shaped ports. The entire vaklve train layout also makes it different from any hemi. For more details go to the allpar site and look at the 4.7 engine and the 5.7 hemi and see the difference.
To call a 4.7 a Hemi is just plain WRONG.
Actually the 4.7 hewads have more in common with the pre-67 small block Polysphere heads than they do the hemi.
i also have had these popping noises while turning and braking. see my post in quad cab postssection. i see you had some parts replaced did this fix the popping sound?
When Ford brought out the Boss 302 and 351, the Mopar fanatics were avid about the fact that they were semi-hemi heads. I could care less if they are called hemi, semi-hemi or polysphere. It is a beautiful engine design. If the new 5.7 hemi engine is as good as this, DC has a winner lineup.
this morning on my 2001, 4.7, auto i started the engine and let the engine warm up for a min while i put on my seat belt and such and i pressed on the accelerator like i always do and it sounded like i was at the airport. i did it a couple of times to see what it was and it was so loud that my neighbor came out to see what that noise was.
well i put the truck in reverse and it barely moved back and i rolled down the window to my neighbor to look at the asphalt up close so make sure i didnt loose my tranny fluid but the driveway was dry as a bone so then i put it in drive and it slowly started to creep but very loud and the transmission acted like it started to finally grab on and the truck took off and the noise went away and didnt come back the rest of the day. i stopped down the street at the gas station to check my fluids and everything was ok. is this the fan noise everyone has been complaining about? i was surprised that it does it in park also. p.s. my neighbor told me to leave late tomorrow so i dont wake him up again. ha it was loud!
Does your neighbor sleep in the bed or your truck? ;-) He must be A light sleeper. (Or have paper-thin walls)
I find it VERY interesting that most folks with the automatic tranny think that there is somthing wrong with the transmission. Anyone that looks at the tachometer will see that everything is perfectly normal from that point of view. (Ignore what your ears are telling you)
Rest assured that the belt driven fan makes the most noise during mildly cold weather. When it gets below 0F... even the fanclutch engauges slowly.
I have a 2K Dak with 4.7 5 speed. I saw some input on the Dakota Mailing List some time back praising the Bosch +4 platinum plugs performance in the 4.7. Anybody in this forum have any experience with these? I am mainly interested in good fuel economy and decent performance not really speed.
I have failed to remember all of the dialog for warped rotors, but my frustration level from 22K to my current 30K has gotten me to the point I am going to do something quickly.
I have 2 choices as I see it (which doesn't include taking it in via warranty - for personal reasons): 1- turn down rotors and then probably replace them in another 5-10K miles, or; 2- just replace front rotors and pads and now.
I have been collecting data from various sources, some of which probably came from this site. Cross drilled rotors are an option at a 200% premium (approx $120 vs 60 for Raybestos premium). I also understand that the ceramic pads are best way to go to reduce the heat build-up which is the primary cause of rotor warpage.
From data collected I am leaning toward just replacing the rotors rather than delay the inevitable.
Any thoughts on Raybestos Premium Rotor - non-crossdrilled ($60 ea) and the ceramic pads approx ($90 for both front wheels)?
At 20K mine are warped too. Local garage will take them off and reinstall after turning them down for $60 - $100. Ultimately, they'll have to be replaced with something better than what MOPAR has to offer. After comparing your prices with what I've gotten, I'd put on new.
I saved the post below which I made to the DML a while back. I have had these rotors now for over 9 years and in addition to everything I said below they show almost no wear.
After going through 2 sets of rotors for my wife's car (in two years), because of warpage, I ordered a set of crossed drilled rotors from a Canadian company which advertised in the back of Road and Track. I have had them for over 8 years with absolutely no trouble and my brake pads are lasting more than twice as long as before. I'm not sure if they have them for a Dakota but I used to be on the Ram mailing list and they had them for the 1500, 2500 and 3500. Several guys on the Ram list got them and were very pleased with them. If anyone does try them please let me know if they do have them, cause when I do have to replace the rotors on my new Dak that is definitely the way I'll go. They did go for about a hundred bucks but I believe you get what you pay for. The company is:
Best Auto Parts 1537 Startop Glocester, ON K1B3W5 > > Phone (613) 746-2378
They require specific info on your truck, so make sure you know what axle you have. They have no email link but you can call at the above number, or fax at 613 746-2497 Attn Dan.
I added the Bosch plugs to my truck and definitely noticed the difference. The first time I got on the freeway with them, I almost felt like I was in 4th when I was in 5th. I definately recommend them.
I've talked to others and get the impression that the OEM plugs are pretty crappy, so any decent plugs would be an improvement.
The rotors are still on backorder. or so they say. i didnt question them as it would fit my schedule better to have service next week vs this week. They are going to re-place the control arms for the popping noise. I will post the results. The popping noises are getting worse now and becoming very annoying. . Brett
I have the annoying popping noises, too. I have had rotors replaced, sway bar bushings changed, intermediate shaft in steering replaced, bushings added to rear leaf springs, and control arms replaced. There's probably more stuff I can't remember. NOTHING has worked. Why has this been so difficult to fix? It sounds like many have this problem. I think the dealers have trouble reproducing it--if I am curving to the right and then brake before making a left turn, it cracks and pops every time. Has ANYONE had any luck with this? I guess I will have to give up as the dealer is going to break something if I let them keep throwing their fixes at it.
I have a question regarding the popping noise everyone is getting. I have a 2000 Dakota Quad 4.7 4x4 and I do not experience any strange noises while driving or turning under normal conditions. The only noise I have is more of a loud clunk when I have the wheel turned all the way and driving forward very slowly. It is definetally coming from the front end but I'm not sure if this is a normal occurance on 4 wheel drive vehicles or if this is similar to what everyone else is experiencing. should also mention that it happens while in 2 wheel drive and not sure if it even happens in 4 wheel drive since I avoid full wheel inputs in 4 wheel drive. Thanks
I am not sure about this yet, Please bear with me a bit here. Tonight I washed my truck and was cleaning the inner fromt wheel wells and heard a pop. It sounded alot like what I have been hearing on my slow left hand turns. Played around a bit and was able to recreate it. Where it is:.. where the front of the plastic wheelwell is attached to the lower portion of the front bumper valance there is a plastic stud that is inserted frm the bottom of the valance into the wheel well black plastic piece. Hope this makes sense. Anyway, it is loose and when pushed, it POPS. I placed a rag in theer tightly and drove around a little and could not make the popping noise come back, I am not able to continue the test tonight but I will tomorrow and report back. I think I just may have the culprit though. take a look and see what you all think. Brett
I know Ive already asked about LSD rears but I'm still not sure If I have one. What I just did is jacked the rear of the truck, put the tranny in neutral and rotated one tire foward. The other tire turned backwards. The I held one tire and was able to turn the other tire no problem..Does this mean I do or do not have a LSD rear...It is the 3.55 9.25" rear......Thanks
i've had my truck numerious times as weel for this and the dealer cannot seem to recreate the noise either. I 've even taken the service manager on several test drives but still couldnot recreate the popping sound. seems the truck has a mind of its own. you could go around the same turn at the same speed twice and truck will only make the pop noise once?? crazy huh! theres been some threads over at moparchat.com on this subject as well as others.*********** bnc and krusy2 I have talked to many with this problem and nobody has discovered the true cause of the haunted popping monster! and as you can see after replacing the all those parts krusty2 still has the same noise. as far as i can tell its not effecting the drivablity of the truck rather the driving experience. i guess you could file a lemon law claim and probely have a valid case. i wish i could find the source of this problem also! keep pressen on
The easiest way to tell if you have the limited-slip differential is to look at the Equipment Identification sticker inside of your glove box and see if it has code "DSA Axle - Anti-Spin Differential" listed.
Thank you. Now I am finally assured that I do not have LSD. I'm not too concerned with having it I just wanted to make sure I didnt have to add any special additive to the fluid when I switch to synthetic in the diffs..Again Thanks......John
My '00 QC 4.7 Sport 4x4 has hit 30,000 miles. Took the the dealer today for first time since new (had an oil drip from the pan gasket). Inquired about synthetic trans fluid and was told 1) it requires disassembling the transmission to change from the ATF4, and 2) a trans fluid change on the QC Auto is $225 because there are two filters to be changed. Does this sound right?
My dealer made the papers a couple years ago for crashing a customers viper they were out joyriding in while it was in for service, so they're not exactly a five star operation... Thanks
Anyone had trouble starting their '01 QC, 4.7L auto? By that, I mean the starter turning over, but not 'catching'? (I just had my wife's '00 Jeep GC in for that problem which turned out to be a worn O-ring on the fuel pump.) Normally, the engine starts right up, but yesterday I had to try 3 times before I got a good start. As I think back, there were other times where there was a little trouble strting also.
Hey all, any of you quaders find that things get wet in the glove box???Looked at my owners manual for the first time in 6-8 weeks and found that it was fully wrinkled and curled due to moisture. Live in triple h weather texas and run the a/c a lot. thanks, slr9589
That price sounds about right... It is also HIGHLY recommended to use ONLY the proper fluid in the 45RFE tranny since it is computer-controlled , driver-learning, highly sophisticated...etc...etc.
This is one reason I orderd the 5sp manual tranny. After I looked at the suggested PM schedule for the 45RFE tranny and the cost of each PM... it was obvious to me that I could not afford to own that tranny.
Pulled the front left wheel last weekend and was preparing to pull rotors to possibly turn them or replace them. I could not notice any warping of the rotor as they were rotated so I decided to sand down the pads which appeared to be extremely glazed and shiny- using 120 grit. I have 30K on this 2000 model and was prepared to do something as the pulsation was getting progressively worse over the past 8 months or so.
Since last weekend I have driven 300 miles local city and have absolutly no pulsation in the front wheels now. Ironically, I only did this to the driver side pads. I plan to rotate tires this weekend and will redo the drivers side again and will also pull the pads on the pasenger side and repeat the process.
Anyone else find this to eliminate the pulsation?
By the way, my pads appear to be slightly over 3/8" thick (minimal wear in 30K miles) and to be the semi-metalic type.
Comments
Now with that out of the way.
11,500 is my present mileage.
Here In Houston TX, It has finally started to have outside temps, in the morning's of around 50 degree's,
When I go to START my QC for the first time, ( COLD ) in the morning, the QC starts, and Hesitates.... Stumbles..... ( for about the first 0-30 seconds ) I dont Touch the gas when starting, Should I ? Sometime's I touch the gas an the engine is ok then. Then runs fine after that?
Is this Normal?
I always Drive the Truck Imediately upon Starting it, I never let it Idle to warm-up! As I am of the belief that it is better to have the Engine work/drive lightly till the engine reaches operating tempature before getting on the GAS !
What, if anything, should I check for?
P.S. Since I have the Tow Pkg and I presently don't do any towing yet, later I will. Does My rear-end have Dino Oil in it? or does it have Synth in it?
is it p.p.s or p.s.s. whatever...
Should I go-ahead and replace the Rear-end oil with synth?
How long does the Rear-end oil good for time or milage wise?
Same for the Synth Oil, How long does it last before it needs to be changed?
Your initiation is complete. You have transcended the day to day normal running of the 4.7. engine.
Now for the fix...yes, there is a fix for this. You need to pound your dealer until they get the TSB for this which involves an update to your PCM to cure this. I had mine done last March and have had no trouble since. Ahahser could probably dig out the TSB number since I never got it printed on my invoice. I have since run the gamut of 90's all the way down to 30's and the idle is good, smooth, and steady.
Good luck!
First, IF you are having the same problem as us, teh symptoms are essentially; Cold start does and almost stalling, idle "searching" til it setles down.. Coming to as stop usually after highway speeds, (engine temp is not the issue) and when u come to that stop teh engine idle "searches" at or below 500 or so.. and never really smooths out till u accelerate again which is mormal. No symptoms while driving, power and acceleration was fine. However my rig stalled and tried to stall many times.. but mostly was a VERY noticeable rough feel as it idled when stopped.
Second, as bpeebles did/can attest, there are 2 sides to this.. one fixes the idle to somewhere around 600 or so.. where before it was at or BELOW 500 or so...always hunting for a happy place. The other side is technical dealing with retarded timing and loss of HP.. Ask bpeebles if U need more details..
So after thee fix, smoooooth idle but I noticed it had to "relearn" me again.. but that settled down quickly. I believe I saw some loss of initial acceleration power at first but now it seems back to normal..
Ok the TSB:
CAUSE: FLASH MODULE
08194496 VEHICLE PERFORMANCE; COLD START
HESITATION - TSB 18-08-96
152 W40
1 4275086 LABEL - GENERAL INFORMATION
1 4669020 LABEL - AUTHORIZED SOFTWARE
FC: FM
PART # 4275086
and at the bottom:
26306 (CHK IDLE) FLASH MODULE 08194496 .5 TSB 18-01-01 FLASHED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.
Hope this helps...
I have a '01 QC, 4.7L, auto, 2wd Sport. I began having brake squeal problems at times when I was breaking from about 60 mph. Gradually, it got more frequent and at lower speeds (but no shaking the steering wheel ever). Right before I took it in for some other warranty work at the local 5 star Chrysler dealer, I had a devil of a time trying to get the truck to make this noise. Anyway, when I picked it up, the service manager told me they had 'sanded the drums', and they could find nothing wrong with the front brakes or rotors. For a while , there was no sound, however, I am beginning to hear the sound more and more often. Does this ('sanding the drums') make any sense? What could the reason be?
Anyway no dealer help. This past weekend me and my beer cooler took both calipers off, THOURGHLY cleaned the pads and then applied that blue brake squeal goop to the back of the pads. So far conditions that normally gave me the chirp/squeal has been silent. I'm happy so far, but only time will tell. btw, my pads looked hardy worn at all (35,000 miles so far) and the rotors have no warp, jitter or warpage as others have seen.
my .02 worth... keep us updated
John
Brett
John
The 9.25 is the DIAMATOR of the differential. (there is 8.25 and 9.25 inch) (with 10 and 12 bolts on the covers respectivly)
Do you have the 4X4?... I think the 8.25 is only on the 2WD. (but have never verified it.)
As for which synth to use.... any brand name will be just fine. You will NEVER even approach the limits of lubrication with any of them. (Unless you tow more than the maximum rated weight at 80 MPH for hours at a time ;-)
To wit, I secured a fram and using my trusty hack saw, cut off the outer casing and saw exactly what the other guy saw. Cardboard end caps, plastic anti-drainback valve, and off centered filter media. Thinking this must have been one built on a Friday, I went out and got another one. Same thing. Proof positive for me!
So I went back to Purolator. Never used a Mobil 1 filter, so I don't know much about it.
I figured quality had to go no where but down when wally world started selling fram.
I should have left my recently waxed truck alone however I was a victim of an infomercial. Durashine..the revolutionary product that prevents water from beading and therefore water spots is the worst finish I have ever applied to my beloved finish. Oh well... had to rewash and re wax truck after I used that garbage but I used Zymbol and what a finish. I remember somebody suggesting that some time ago and it is the best wax I've ever used. All in one day I saw the two extremes of automotive finishes. Anyway a word of caution... Stay away from Durashine.
John
I was a bit disapointed in this service experience. I had an oil change performed as well and there was oil all over the skid plates this time and not cleaned off very well. I also asked that if they could have the parts tomorrow and install them. they said sure,I I said then that as I stated in the drop off that I would need a truck as I am moving a ladder tomorrow. They assured me it would be done today which I figured was a tad mis-leading since they probably had a decent idea the A arms were the cause of the popping. Anyway, I picked it up tonight they will call when parts arrive and set appt. The sat survey will hear my displeasure. My take is that if a part fails during the warranty period, the customer should not be out of pocket any money nor inconvience if at all possible.
I share your experience with Durashine. I had a brand-new Isuzu Rodeo (shiny black).
I put that Durashine on and I was shocked!!! I had to take it to a Ziebart Detail shop and pay over $100 to repair the badly ruined finish. I cannot believe they {Durashine} sell such a lousy product and lie as they do. Durashine has to be the biggest rip-off I have ever experienced in my lifetime.
Anyway, I sent it back for a full refund, but still could not shake all of the junk mail that came as a result of my ordering. Guess the selling of my name and address was more important than making a product that lives up to it's claims.
Ayrow
Just a note, in the April 1999 Mopar Action there is an article on the new Chrysler 287 V8. Take a look at the picture of the cylinder heads, the caption calls them Semi-hemispherical, they then call it "state of the art combustion technology." If you look closely at those heads the valve set up looks an awful lot like a poly combustion chamber, which is also called semi-hemi. Could this be a case of Chysler looking back to build on the future?
Some hard-core hemi folks have inspected the heads of the 287ci and given their nod of approval to using the HEMI name.
To call a 4.7 a Hemi is just plain WRONG.
Actually the 4.7 hewads have more in common with the pre-67 small block Polysphere heads than they do the hemi.
well i put the truck in reverse and it barely moved back and i rolled down the window to my neighbor to look at the asphalt up close so make sure i didnt loose my tranny fluid but the driveway was dry as a bone so then i put it in drive and it slowly started to creep but very loud and the transmission acted like it started to finally grab on and the truck took off and the noise went away and didnt come back the rest of the day. i stopped down the street at the gas station to check my fluids and everything was ok. is this the fan noise everyone has been complaining about? i was surprised that it does it in park also. p.s. my neighbor told me to leave late tomorrow so i dont wake him up again. ha it was loud!
any opinions?
thanks,
robert
Does your neighbor sleep in the bed or your truck? ;-) He must be A light sleeper. (Or have paper-thin walls)
I find it VERY interesting that most folks with the automatic tranny think that there is somthing wrong with the transmission. Anyone that looks at the tachometer will see that everything is perfectly normal from that point of view. (Ignore what your ears are telling you)
Rest assured that the belt driven fan makes the most noise during mildly cold weather. When it gets below 0F... even the fanclutch engauges slowly.
I have 2 choices as I see it (which doesn't include taking it in via warranty - for personal reasons):
1- turn down rotors and then probably replace them in another 5-10K miles, or;
2- just replace front rotors and pads and now.
I have been collecting data from various sources, some of which probably came from this site. Cross drilled rotors are an option at a 200% premium (approx $120 vs 60 for Raybestos premium). I also understand that the ceramic pads are best way to go to reduce the heat build-up which is the primary cause of rotor warpage.
From data collected I am leaning toward just replacing the rotors rather than delay the inevitable.
Any thoughts on Raybestos Premium Rotor - non-crossdrilled ($60 ea) and the ceramic pads approx ($90 for both front wheels)?
Ed
After going through 2 sets of rotors for my wife's car (in two years),
because of warpage, I ordered a set of crossed drilled rotors from a Canadian company which
advertised in the back of Road and Track. I have had them for over 8 years
with absolutely no trouble and my brake pads are lasting more than twice
as long as before. I'm not sure if they have them for a Dakota but I used
to be on the Ram mailing list and they had them for the 1500, 2500 and 3500.
Several guys on the Ram list got them and were very pleased with them.
If anyone does try them please let me know if they do have them, cause when
I do have to replace the rotors on my new Dak that is definitely the way
I'll go. They did go for about a hundred bucks but I believe you get what you
pay for. The company is:
Best Auto Parts
1537 Startop
Glocester, ON K1B3W5
> >
Phone (613) 746-2378
They require specific info on your truck, so make sure you know what axle
you have. They have no email link but you can call at the above number, or fax at
613 746-2497 Attn Dan.
Ron35.
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
I added the Bosch plugs to my truck and definitely noticed the difference. The first time I got on the freeway with them, I almost felt like I was in 4th when I was in 5th. I definately recommend them.
I've talked to others and get the impression that the OEM plugs are pretty crappy, so any decent plugs would be an improvement.
Brett
Where it is:.. where the front of the plastic wheelwell is attached to the lower portion of the front bumper valance there is a plastic stud that is inserted frm the bottom of the valance into the wheel well black plastic piece. Hope this makes sense. Anyway, it is loose and when pushed, it POPS. I placed a rag in theer tightly and drove around a little and could not make the popping noise come back, I am not able to continue the test tonight but I will tomorrow and report back. I think I just may have the culprit though. take a look and see what you all think.
Brett
Brett
The test you have performed shows that you DO NOT have LSD.
If, on the other hand, the other wheel turned the SAME direction... then this is the positive test for LSD.
Fear not... you can have LSD installed if you wish. Here are some URLs that may intrest you.
http://www.ring-pinion.com/home.htm
http://www.auburngear.com/
My dealer made the papers a couple years ago for crashing a customers viper they were out joyriding in while it was in for service, so they're not exactly a five star operation...
Thanks
any of you quaders find that things get wet in the glove box???Looked at my owners manual for the first time in 6-8 weeks and found that it was fully wrinkled and curled due to moisture.
Live in triple h weather texas and run the a/c a lot.
thanks,
slr9589
This is one reason I orderd the 5sp manual tranny. After I looked at the suggested PM schedule for the 45RFE tranny and the cost of each PM... it was obvious to me that I could not afford to own that tranny.
PM= PreventiveMaintenance
Since last weekend I have driven 300 miles local city and have absolutly no pulsation in the front wheels now. Ironically, I only did this to the driver side pads. I plan to rotate tires this weekend and will redo the drivers side again and will also pull the pads on the pasenger side and repeat the process.
Anyone else find this to eliminate the pulsation?
By the way, my pads appear to be slightly over 3/8" thick (minimal wear in 30K miles) and to be the semi-metalic type.