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I am strongly considering just replacing the original pads om my Dak with some high-grade pads. Not only will I get better stopping power, it is said that that ugly-black buildup (brake dust) on the front wheels is eliminated. This, in itself would be worth it!!
Anyway, the 12,000 mile mark is approaching fast and I was wondering IF I should bring the truck in to my 5 Star Dealer and tell them I feel something funny with the brakes just so I can get them to eval the brakes and rotors and replace same under warranty PRIOR to the 12,000 mile point where I believe I will have to then eat any brake / rotor work I have done. Appreciate any and all input on this. Thanks! Bill in NY
I have one of the early 2000 Daks (orderd nov 1999) and the brakes have never exibited any problems in almost 30000 miles.
Stick with what works.
Being the "resident technical liazon" for this forum, I am suggesting the following reading.
Page 181 of Dec. 2001 "Sport Truck" magizine.
There is a very informative, step-by-step (7-step) procedure on how to "season" new rotors to reduce warpage. There is also the steps to bed new pads to your now-seasoned rotors.
Perhaps the most important lesson "Never bed pads on unseasoned rotors"
Anyone that knows basic meteallagy can see that the above-referenced process simply heat-treats the rotors by using specific, controlled stops from certain speeds. The heat-cool-heat-cool sequence changes the molecular structure of the rotor material.
The entire article ("Brake buyers guide") is quite informative. It discusses drilled, slotted and other aftermarket brake items too.
By the way, I am approaching the 12 month barrier on my truck, and am very concerned about crossing that threshold and then having to pay for new rotors, etc. I don't think it would hurt billarf to have them checked. Maybe they will find something, maybe not. But it may give him some peace of mind.
into the dealership today. I told them the white lie that the brakes felt strange and asked that they check them over. I also told them I wanted the most current programming for the transmission as it was slamming 3rd gear on occasion.
After two hours waiting for the vehicle the service writer told me the rear wheel drums were
both "out of round" and need to be replaced. He also said they would be replacing the "computer" that dictated to the transmission as it could not be flashed with the most current, updated firmware that Dodge said I should have.
Anyway, parts are on order and I will go back next Monday for install. Oh, rotors and pads were aok and met tolerances. Bill in NY
Good luck...from what I have seen on other boards, its best to go aftermarket on the rotors and drums. Seems once a person does that, brake problems go away.
Rabestos rotors runs 58.52 at the NAPA store in my town. Have not priced out pads yet.
The "aftermarket" stuff is SOOO much better. Better stopping, Better wear resistance, MUCH LESS black brake dust on the front wheels. (that "eats" at the wheels and leaves pits)
at the very least! Bill in NY
For MOPAR automacics.... ALWAYS ALWAYS!! use the the MOPAR-branded fluids lest you may experience problems "down the road".
Keep in mind that in an automatc tranny, the fluid is not only lubricating... It is pumped, it serves as the wet clutch fluid, it cools the parts...etc. (It even pushes the vehicle!!) It has been said many times before... Using the wrong fluid WILL cause the clutches to wear out due to friction characteristics. Also in the new 45RFE tranny, the computer that is controlling the clutch engaugement will get confused. While attempting to compensate for the friction differences, the tranny may destroy itself. (In the 45RFE, there are input-speed and output-speed sensors. The computer engauges the clutches "just enough" to eliminate slippage.)
Also remember that the 45RFE has a different PM schedule than any other automatic transmisstion. If it is not followed, you are asking for trouble. The engineers modified the PM schedule for a reason.
(The PM schedule on the 45RFE is the main reason I orderd the 5-speed manual... Simple math told be I could not afford the cost of doing the PMs that often.)
PM= PreventiveMaintenance
How do you change differential fluids? Do you just suck it out? For a moment I thought that taking off the cover and cleaning all metal particles from the bottom and having all clean oil would do a better job, but is it worth the struggle. Last weekend, when I rotated the tires I checked front breaks, joints etc. I noticed that It's pretty hard to spin the wheels. No wonder the truck needs so much gas to move, rolling really sucks comparing to my wife's Passat. I know truck, tires, etc. From what you said it means that synthetic oil would make differentials move easier, but is it significant to notice the difference?
I need to replace fog lights since I hit a dear. I was very surprised how different it is from driving a car. Not a single screech, just the light. Poor animal! Anyway, I found coupe descent options. Eagle Eye($130) or Optilux by Hella($50), both driving lights.Optilux seams to be too cheap to be any good, but Hella name makes you thinking, after all good brand. I found fog lights pretty useless and having extra light for dark winter roads shouldn't hurt. Maybe I'm wrong. What do you think?
If changing to synth, It is recommended that cover is pulled to help get all of old stuff out. I agree with you that "sucking" it out is MUCH easier and there is no chance of creating a leak. I almost think that do 2 changes by "sucking" (perhaps 500 miles apart) would be easier than going thru the hassle of removing the cover. It might cost a bit more in $$ but the savings in time/hassle may make up for it. The end result woud be a complete change to synthetic.
Using Synth in differentials, xfer case, and manual tranny:
Some folks have reported that their differential was hot-to-the-touch after driving. This heat is a direct result of friction and "oil churn" within the pumpkin. One person even reported that his differential was ruined by towing because there was no synth in it. Given these facts, one can surmise that changing to synthetic may improve MPG situation by way of reduced friction and churning..
What do you consider "significant"? In my mind, If I can get another mile out of a gallon of gas this is significant. (especially if I run my truck for 130,000 miles)
Fog lights;
I am 100% for more light. Anyone that has driven in a snowstorm at night knows that headlights are useless due to light reflecting off of the 'sparkley' snowflakes right back into your eyes. Only yellow fog lights properly mounted LOW to the ground will allow you to see well enough to drive safely. I prefer to turn OFF the headlamps and use only the fogs under certain conditions. (25 years of driving Vermont winter experience)
Driving Lights:
As opposed to FOGlamps, DRIVING lights need to be mounted HIGH as possible. (as Laws permit) Ideally, mounting on TOP of the cab would provide the best light.
I prefer the HELLA or BOSCH lights because replacement lenses are available when the occasional stone (or deer) breaks the lens.
Drive Safe,
Joe
For info Fumoto oil drain valve go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com
For sizing on various vehicles go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/merchant.cfm
Buy from Summit Racing for $19.99
Bill in NY
(N stands for nipple)on your Dodge 4.7L Magnum. Bill in NY
Here is the process I followed. (Since I have a strong engineering background... I must have a process ;-)
Type of plug:
I researched Edmunds , the DML, and several other Dakota information sources. (I also own the BOB) I took a lot of notes during my research and compiled all data. Some folks even did dyno-runs or 1/4mile drags on various plugs.
Bottom line.. The very best sparkplug on the market today is the Denso Iridium (BKR6W1X (6418) ) But this is VERY hard to find and is about US$12 each. So I went with Bosch +4 #4418 at about $6 each at NAPA. The gap(s) on the +4 is NOT adjustable and should NEVER change even over many miles of use.
Installation:
ENGINE MUST BE STONE COLD DUE TO ALUMINIUM HEADS!!
Removed intake plenum (not a problem for me because I have a "homebrew" intake allready)
I did one plug at a time as such;
- Compressed air to remove any debris that may fall into holes.
- pull connector from coil.
- 10mm socket to remove nut that holds down coil.
- Coil pulls straight out (do not pull on connector)
- Use LONG extension on sparkplug wrench. (this is a HEHI afterall)
- Apply NEVER SEEZE on new plug threads
- run new plug all the way in and back out by hand 2-3 times to spread NEVER SEEZE.
- Snug plug about 1/4 turn from hand tignt.
- Apply silicone grease on coil o-ring and rubber insulator
- Coil pushes into hole, lining up over stud
- replace 10mm nut
Notes:The 2 alumininum heater-core pipes must be unclipped and moved a bit. I also removed a 10mm nut and pulled the EEC solinoid from the firewall to move it out of the way (all hoses left connected) I am no stranger to mechanical work and this took me almost 1.5 hours. (Yes...I took my time and did the job right)
Conclutions:
At first, I was concerned that the +4 plugs were almost $50. Now, I am glad that I will NOT have to touch the plugs again for about 5 years. If I had gone with the original Champion's I would have been doing this again in another 2 years.
Ron35
Suggestions on how to treat it are much appreciated. I'm not sure of that brush on rust stop goop.. This is small enough to avoid the dealer and shop time and I can do it in an afternoon in the garage
..
Ron35
Also have had a pull to the right, again twice checked by the dealer. Last time they did an alinement, but said the air pressiure in my right front tire was only 10 psi. I told them if it was that low, I couldn't have even driven it in without the tire falling off the rim. Besides I had checked the air in each tire that morning right before driving to the dealer and made sure each had 35 psi. Unless the valve stuck open, I just don't see how it was possible. Any thoughts on why the pull to the right?
For what it's worth, the aforementioned procedure requires a Torx T-25 (male) to remove the primary oil filter and a 65mm end cap oil filter wrench to remove the cooler return filter.
P.S. It is very difficult to extract the primary oil filter seal without destroying it.
1- were you able to do the job easily at ground level without a lift? I have done this several times with my old 2WD F150 in the garage however it seems my F150 had 1-2" additional clearance.
2-Did you only drain the pan/filter, or did you also pull the transmission lines. (I understand that you can only remove approximately 5-6 quarts because the converter can not be drained)
3- What was the issue with pulling the primary filter and do you have any recommendations?
4-How successful were you with the silicone seal (no gasket). I had the same concern. Any recommendations here?
I am planning to change mine in the next couple weeks now that it is a little cooler and I won't have to sweat my butt off. I picked up 6 qts of Valvoline ATF3+(package states "contains anti-shudder additives to matching Type 7176 which is required for new Chrysler vehicles"). Also picked up the 2 filters which were manufactured by ATP. All totaled with Tax was approx $40 less than the Chrysler dealer.
By the way- thanks for the mentioning that you had completed the job.
Good luck anyhow!
Be it known, my cooler is never far away.. and can be re-filled on very-short notice (Miller Light and Rolling Rock are normal residents in there). And since N.O. weather is still quite warm.. thirst is always a consideration
Seriously, Im concerned I am prepared for this tranny, since the past jobs were on a 93 Ford C6 (if memory serves) and a Chevy van (memory doesnt serve here)
make mine yuenling or coors lite (ET beer)! maybe if I pour some of that down the tranny it will shift better? Yes? no? What have I got to lose right?
On to a maintenance / potential trouble item. During Sept / Oct, the 4.7 seems to have developed an engine imbalance, 22,000+ miles. At 2,700+ rpms, there is a small but noticeable vibration in the clutch pedal, 5 sp shiftier, and to a lesser degree in the steering wheel. This is strictly engine rpm related and can be produced while sitting still.
As you may remember, since the 10,000 mile mark, I've been taking engine oil samples in to a diesel / heavy equipment dealer for wear metals analysis. The most recent set came back more or less in the same range as before and with the comment "Wear Metals at Acceptable Levels".
I don't "beat" this truck, no 4 wheeling, 99% highway miles but I do like to push 3rd gear (3.55 LSD rear) while merging with traffic from the on-ramps. I've never red-lined the engine during these on-ramp episodes.
My questions are: 1. Could these high-torque episodes cause main or connecting rod bearing damage? 2. Could that type of damage manifest itself in the described 2,700+ rpm vibration? 3. If damage has occurred and is causing the vibration, why haven't the oil analyses indicated a more substantial amount of wear?
1) I did the change at ground level as I have the 4x4 clearance. Next time I'm going to use 4 jack stands because when I raised the pan, with new silicone atop, I could not get directly underneath the pan to line up the holes as I raised it to the transmission. I had to do it one-handed from the side, thus smearing the silicone during final alignment.
2) You are correct, the torque converter cannot be drained so I only removed 5 quarts.
3) The primary oil filter seal would just not come off. I finally had to deform it with a screwdriver to remove it. BE CAREFUL, the aluminum casing behind same scratches easily. (Let me know if you discover an easier removal method.)
4) What took the longest was cleaning the old silicone off the pan. It took over an hour because between each pan hole is a little trough. I finally resorted to brake cleaner which sped the process along.
Hope this helps.
The Mopar parts were expensive, but since I'm under warranty until 36K, I bit the bullet.
5 qts Mopar ATF +4 $56.88
cooler filter 20.10
Primary filter w/ seal 44.90
silicone 6.49
including tax $138.64
I decided to do the change myself when I learned from a guy in the neighborhood, who also has a new Dakota, had our 5 Star Dealer perform the service and they overfilled his transmission, which later shuddered to a stop. He had it towed back. All they did was drain the excess and said it would be alright. I figured that if they screwed up the fluid filling, what is the quality of the rest of their work.
a favorite domestic along with Genesee. Spent much time in Utica and Rome, NY.
Bookitty
I was a bit off on my rpm's. Rather than 2,700 it should have been 1,700, which is basically all of the time. Been using Mobil 1 5-30W since 6,000 mile mark and changed it and the filter every 6 to 7 thousand miles - If that answers any additional questions.
Will be retiring at the end of Feb-02. After taking a 6 mo. vacation and some additional classes, I'm planning to seek employment in 2003 or 2004. Anyone need an energy manager that handled $45 million / yr of natural gas, electricity, heating oil, propane purchases (physical) in USA, Canada and Mexico and can hedge these with financial derivatives in futures market? Will work for big money but don't want to relocate.
Anyway, filled up at the Sunoco station and the prior tank of BP fuel turned in 15.2 M.P.G on a mix of city and hihway driving.
Bad news: No dove, pheasants, grouse, flies, or anything moved today. One lousy squirrel for 4 hours of hunting. Those Sellier and Bellot shells really reach out! 11/15/2001 god bless duck season comes back in here!
BTW, brakes seem to be behaving.... for now anyway.
GOing to Indy in December hope by then they still will be behaving.
(Yough = Yougeheineny(sp?) river)
The beer made here in Vermont is more the "english-style".... right near the "Ben and Jerrys" ice-cream factory.
For cheap drinkin' ya can't beat Jacob Best.
Benjamin Franklin (1700's sometime)
I won't argue with that!
KarenS
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