(myersed) There was a time when de-glazing the brake pads was considerd a standard PM practice.
I am strongly considering just replacing the original pads om my Dak with some high-grade pads. Not only will I get better stopping power, it is said that that ugly-black buildup (brake dust) on the front wheels is eliminated. This, in itself would be worth it!!
I have an '01 Dodge Quad Cab that was delivered in May '01. Truck runs great. No apparent problems and specifically sign of brake/rotor problems. The truck has about 11,200 miles on it. Anyway, the 12,000 mile mark is approaching fast and I was wondering IF I should bring the truck in to my 5 Star Dealer and tell them I feel something funny with the brakes just so I can get them to eval the brakes and rotors and replace same under warranty PRIOR to the 12,000 mile point where I believe I will have to then eat any brake / rotor work I have done. Appreciate any and all input on this. Thanks! Bill in NY
Why would you want them to replace perfectly good equipment with possibly faulty stuff? Remenber... new is just that... "NEW UNTESTED PARTS" while used stuff has proven itself wether it is good or not.
I have one of the early 2000 Daks (orderd nov 1999) and the brakes have never exibited any problems in almost 30000 miles.
Since there seems to be folks that have repeated problems with their brake rotors warping. I suspect that these folks are inadvertantly damaging their rotors before they are "seasond".
Being the "resident technical liazon" for this forum, I am suggesting the following reading.
Page 181 of Dec. 2001 "Sport Truck" magizine.
There is a very informative, step-by-step (7-step) procedure on how to "season" new rotors to reduce warpage. There is also the steps to bed new pads to your now-seasoned rotors. Perhaps the most important lesson "Never bed pads on unseasoned rotors"
Anyone that knows basic meteallagy can see that the above-referenced process simply heat-treats the rotors by using specific, controlled stops from certain speeds. The heat-cool-heat-cool sequence changes the molecular structure of the rotor material.
The entire article ("Brake buyers guide") is quite informative. It discusses drilled, slotted and other aftermarket brake items too.
Well, I have put one or two notes on glazed pads on this forum lately and got no response. So, I am glad that I am not the only one seeing this phenomenon on his truck. I just got my '01, 4.7L, auto, 2wd QC Sport Plus (7100 miles)out of the shop last Friday for the second time for 'brake squeal'. The first time they said the front pads and rotors were ok and they 'sanded' the rear. Friday, they said they had to sand front and back due to glazing. The rotors are supposed to be still good, also. We talked about the materials used in the rotors and pads, NAFTA, and the like. Anyway, the tech advisor just shrugged his shoulders and gave a rueful grin when I said DC had a problem and needed to get it fixed. He also said that the squeal was 'normal' for the materials used for the brakes. Don't know if I believe that. Seems like a $24K truck shouldn't have such problems after only 7100 miles. Other than the squeal, no problems so far. By the way, I am approaching the 12 month barrier on my truck, and am very concerned about crossing that threshold and then having to pay for new rotors, etc. I don't think it would hurt billarf to have them checked. Maybe they will find something, maybe not. But it may give him some peace of mind.
Well, I did bring my '01 QC with 11,300 miles into the dealership today. I told them the white lie that the brakes felt strange and asked that they check them over. I also told them I wanted the most current programming for the transmission as it was slamming 3rd gear on occasion. After two hours waiting for the vehicle the service writer told me the rear wheel drums were both "out of round" and need to be replaced. He also said they would be replacing the "computer" that dictated to the transmission as it could not be flashed with the most current, updated firmware that Dodge said I should have. Anyway, parts are on order and I will go back next Monday for install. Oh, rotors and pads were aok and met tolerances. Bill in NY
Way to go, billarf! Hopefully, this will cure your problem for a while, at least it might give you some more time before you have to start using your own money. Did the service tech indicate how the drums could have gotten out of round? I mean, is that something that really happens, or do you think they were they just trying to keep you a happy camper? The reason I ask is that I still have some squeal even since my last service visit on Friday. Any info you have is something that I might be able to use if I have to go back before 6 Dec when I go over 12 months on my warranty.
quality. Good luck...from what I have seen on other boards, its best to go aftermarket on the rotors and drums. Seems once a person does that, brake problems go away. Rabestos rotors runs 58.52 at the NAPA store in my town. Have not priced out pads yet.
(mopar67) It is a waste of ones valuble time having the dealer intall more marginal junk. There is a GOOD possibility of getting WORSE stuff from them. (workmanship is questionable too)
The "aftermarket" stuff is SOOO much better. Better stopping, Better wear resistance, MUCH LESS black brake dust on the front wheels. (that "eats" at the wheels and leaves pits)
I certainly am not arguing that we should not put the better aftermarket brake equipment on - I will do it myself when I have to start paying for it. And that's my point - none of us should have to put up with a poor design/poor quality materials (apparently an industry wide problem, not just from QC)for a vehicle this expensive, especially for brakes! So, I just believe that if you have a problem within the warranty period, you force QC to make it as right as they can for as long as you can. Granted, most people have gotten OEM crap again, but, at least, it extends for a little while the point at which you have to start using your money to fix QC crap. Maybe if enough repairs are made, they will seriously entertain using better materials and/or processes, who knows. If nothing else, the database on this problem just keeps getting bigger and bigger, which might help if there is ever a law suit about this. So, I say make them 'fix' it for as long as you can, and hit them in their pocket book, before you have to dive into yours. Maybe they will get the message.
Zonk, I agree with you 100% when you said "I say make them 'fix' it for as long as you can, and hit them in their pocket book, before you have to dive into yours". For sure this makes $ sense at the very least! Bill in NY
Anymore, brake component quality, either OEM or aftermarket, seems to be such a crapshoot. On my old 90 Toyota 4x4, I put no-name rotors and pads on the front brakes, and I never had a problem. On my wife's Subaru Legacy, I put Wagner brake pads on, and after about 10K miles they started squealing. Now after about 30K they are so bad I can't stand them anymore. I'll try the no-name brand this time around. Even my Toyota had problems with the OEM brake drums. They would get out of round when they heated up. Toyota issued a tech bulletin and new parts to correct the problem. This at least puts them 1 step ahead of DC. The bottom line is, corporate cost cutting is killing the quality of these parts.
Can anybody share some opinion about transmission and differential fluids. I would like to service those and I'm not sure if I really have to go with Mopar stuff. I'm specially concern with transmission, since they seam to create lots of headaches. Some places say ATP3 is all that matters, some say they have some additives to make fluid comparable. Some recommend flushing some just changing what's left in the pan. What about synthecs. I heard that Chrysler is putting Amsoil trans. fluid into some tranies. I was thinking about putting synthec at least into differentials, but first it seams to be recommended for ones with limited slip, secondly it would be nice to get all the old stuff out, which is impossible without take off the entire cover. What's best to keep that beast running without problems? Please share your knowledge.
For 5-speed tranny , xfer case and differentials.. use any brand-name fluids that meet the specs. (recommend synthetic for better MPG)
For MOPAR automacics.... ALWAYS ALWAYS!! use the the MOPAR-branded fluids lest you may experience problems "down the road".
Keep in mind that in an automatc tranny, the fluid is not only lubricating... It is pumped, it serves as the wet clutch fluid, it cools the parts...etc. (It even pushes the vehicle!!) It has been said many times before... Using the wrong fluid WILL cause the clutches to wear out due to friction characteristics. Also in the new 45RFE tranny, the computer that is controlling the clutch engaugement will get confused. While attempting to compensate for the friction differences, the tranny may destroy itself. (In the 45RFE, there are input-speed and output-speed sensors. The computer engauges the clutches "just enough" to eliminate slippage.)
Also remember that the 45RFE has a different PM schedule than any other automatic transmisstion. If it is not followed, you are asking for trouble. The engineers modified the PM schedule for a reason.
(The PM schedule on the 45RFE is the main reason I orderd the 5-speed manual... Simple math told be I could not afford the cost of doing the PMs that often.)
Thanks for advice! How do you change differential fluids? Do you just suck it out? For a moment I thought that taking off the cover and cleaning all metal particles from the bottom and having all clean oil would do a better job, but is it worth the struggle. Last weekend, when I rotated the tires I checked front breaks, joints etc. I noticed that It's pretty hard to spin the wheels. No wonder the truck needs so much gas to move, rolling really sucks comparing to my wife's Passat. I know truck, tires, etc. From what you said it means that synthetic oil would make differentials move easier, but is it significant to notice the difference? I need to replace fog lights since I hit a dear. I was very surprised how different it is from driving a car. Not a single screech, just the light. Poor animal! Anyway, I found coupe descent options. Eagle Eye($130) or Optilux by Hella($50), both driving lights.Optilux seams to be too cheap to be any good, but Hella name makes you thinking, after all good brand. I found fog lights pretty useless and having extra light for dark winter roads shouldn't hurt. Maybe I'm wrong. What do you think?
DIff fluid change: If changing to synth, It is recommended that cover is pulled to help get all of old stuff out. I agree with you that "sucking" it out is MUCH easier and there is no chance of creating a leak. I almost think that do 2 changes by "sucking" (perhaps 500 miles apart) would be easier than going thru the hassle of removing the cover. It might cost a bit more in $$ but the savings in time/hassle may make up for it. The end result woud be a complete change to synthetic.
Using Synth in differentials, xfer case, and manual tranny: Some folks have reported that their differential was hot-to-the-touch after driving. This heat is a direct result of friction and "oil churn" within the pumpkin. One person even reported that his differential was ruined by towing because there was no synth in it. Given these facts, one can surmise that changing to synthetic may improve MPG situation by way of reduced friction and churning..
What do you consider "significant"? In my mind, If I can get another mile out of a gallon of gas this is significant. (especially if I run my truck for 130,000 miles)
Fog lights; I am 100% for more light. Anyone that has driven in a snowstorm at night knows that headlights are useless due to light reflecting off of the 'sparkley' snowflakes right back into your eyes. Only yellow fog lights properly mounted LOW to the ground will allow you to see well enough to drive safely. I prefer to turn OFF the headlamps and use only the fogs under certain conditions. (25 years of driving Vermont winter experience)
Driving Lights: As opposed to FOGlamps, DRIVING lights need to be mounted HIGH as possible. (as Laws permit) Ideally, mounting on TOP of the cab would provide the best light.
I prefer the HELLA or BOSCH lights because replacement lenses are available when the occasional stone (or deer) breaks the lens.
Has anyone changed their own fluid and filters (including cooler return filter) on the 2001 45RFE? If so, could you please comment on using just Mopar RTV, I'm use to transmission gaskets and replacing the new filter seal into the oil pump, not onto the filter, per service manual. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
I am at the point where I need to change the spark plugs on my Dakota (2000, SLT, 4x4, auto, 32K miles). For those of you who have changed your plugs, do you have any recommendations? A couple of the plugs appear difficult to access, how did you get to them. Further, I was contemplating using Bosch Platinum plugs. Can anyone list the pros and cons of using the platinum plugs as opposed to the manufacturer recommended plugs??? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I just changed spark plugs 3000 miles ago when the truck hit 30K. I was considering two options Bosch Platinum for $2 a piece or NGK Platinum for $2.5. Hard choice, no one could explain the difference. I went with Bosch ones. Stupid reasoning, but Japanese parts don't like American cars, too much competition and friction. Bosch, German just like Daimler who bought Chrysler, what a mistake. Anyway they were great for fist 500 miles, better acceleration, gas mileage, smother engine. Then they faded somehow, but there is no comparison to the factory crap. If you not satisfied Bosch offers unconditional money back if someone wants to bother. Replacing them took me some time. I took off air intake and I had to move some of the tubing. Then you need right length extension for the wrench and a little patience, but I think is worth $100. You also need to adjust the gap, at least on Bosches.
Thanks for advice! Transfer case has two bolts on the rear side. I assume one is for draining one for filling and checking the level, am I right? What brand oil do you use? Fog lights on the bumper are mounted almost on the height of average car headlights. Maybe I never had descent fog lights but I never found them useful. That's why I thought of putting driving lights into fog lights openings, so I can get better lighting on dark back roads in the winter. Bed idea? If you want to check lights I was talking about here is one of the links, maybe you can find something for yourself. http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=3219&BQ=jcw2
For those with skid plates and oil change messes and for those that just want the convenience check this little goodie out. Place a hose on the nipple and drain into a container and not onto the skid plate. This and the 2 liter Pepsi bottle trick when changing the oil filter will eliminate lots of mess.
(pomyc) Your question comes at a good time. Yesterday evening I changed the sparkplugs in my 4.7L V8 Hemi.
Here is the process I followed. (Since I have a strong engineering background... I must have a process ;-)
Type of plug: I researched Edmunds , the DML, and several other Dakota information sources. (I also own the BOB) I took a lot of notes during my research and compiled all data. Some folks even did dyno-runs or 1/4mile drags on various plugs. Bottom line.. The very best sparkplug on the market today is the Denso Iridium (BKR6W1X (6418) ) But this is VERY hard to find and is about US$12 each. So I went with Bosch +4 #4418 at about $6 each at NAPA. The gap(s) on the +4 is NOT adjustable and should NEVER change even over many miles of use.
Installation: ENGINE MUST BE STONE COLD DUE TO ALUMINIUM HEADS!! Removed intake plenum (not a problem for me because I have a "homebrew" intake allready)
I did one plug at a time as such;
Compressed air to remove any debris that may fall into holes.
pull connector from coil.
10mm socket to remove nut that holds down coil.
Coil pulls straight out (do not pull on connector)
Use LONG extension on sparkplug wrench. (this is a HEHI afterall)
Apply NEVER SEEZE on new plug threads
run new plug all the way in and back out by hand 2-3 times to spread NEVER SEEZE.
Snug plug about 1/4 turn from hand tignt.
Apply silicone grease on coil o-ring and rubber insulator
Coil pushes into hole, lining up over stud
replace 10mm nut
Notes: The 2 alumininum heater-core pipes must be unclipped and moved a bit. I also removed a 10mm nut and pulled the EEC solinoid from the firewall to move it out of the way (all hoses left connected) I am no stranger to mechanical work and this took me almost 1.5 hours. (Yes...I took my time and did the job right)
Conclutions: At first, I was concerned that the +4 plugs were almost $50. Now, I am glad that I will NOT have to touch the plugs again for about 5 years. If I had gone with the original Champion's I would have been doing this again in another 2 years.
bpeebles - Thanks for your post on the sparkplug change. I have been thinking about going to the Bosch +4 when my change comes due in about 4,000 miles. After you have had a chance to evaluate them please give us a post on any changes in performance, mileage etc.
well I need some PM sheetmetal experience here. I noticed some rust spots forming on my tailgate edge where the outer skin was folded into and welded to the inside. Ok bad description, but with the gate down the space between the gate and the bed.. gate side look down there and U can see the seam where the outer skin is folded in for the weld. almost like a little shelf. Well I have a few rust spots forming on the passenger side of the gate, right on the seam... kinda hard to get to and I need to treat it before it gets out of hand.
Suggestions on how to treat it are much appreciated. I'm not sure of that brush on rust stop goop.. This is small enough to avoid the dealer and shop time and I can do it in an afternoon in the garage ..
ahasher - I have been using a product called Extend for years and it works great. It comes in a 16 oz spray can and I believe the manufacturer is Duro. It stops the rust from spreading and leaves a protective coating. It will work on any metal surface. I believe I got mine in Lowes in the paint section but it is available in many stores.
I have a '01 Sport+, 4.7L, auto, 2wd. Still having the brake squeal problem after twice in the shop. Could the rear drums be out of round as one other member reported? What can I do? Also have had a pull to the right, again twice checked by the dealer. Last time they did an alinement, but said the air pressiure in my right front tire was only 10 psi. I told them if it was that low, I couldn't have even driven it in without the tire falling off the rim. Besides I had checked the air in each tire that morning right before driving to the dealer and made sure each had 35 psi. Unless the valve stuck open, I just don't see how it was possible. Any thoughts on why the pull to the right?
No response to my 2Nov01 "45RFE?" I'll presume that everybody drives manuals, or pays someone else to change their fluid and filters. For what it's worth, the aforementioned procedure requires a Torx T-25 (male) to remove the primary oil filter and a 65mm end cap oil filter wrench to remove the cooler return filter. P.S. It is very difficult to extract the primary oil filter seal without destroying it.
Couple questions for waynesan regarding the transmission filter fluid change. Sorry I could not help earlier seeing how I had not yet changed my fluid.
1- were you able to do the job easily at ground level without a lift? I have done this several times with my old 2WD F150 in the garage however it seems my F150 had 1-2" additional clearance. 2-Did you only drain the pan/filter, or did you also pull the transmission lines. (I understand that you can only remove approximately 5-6 quarts because the converter can not be drained) 3- What was the issue with pulling the primary filter and do you have any recommendations? 4-How successful were you with the silicone seal (no gasket). I had the same concern. Any recommendations here?
I am planning to change mine in the next couple weeks now that it is a little cooler and I won't have to sweat my butt off. I picked up 6 qts of Valvoline ATF3+(package states "contains anti-shudder additives to matching Type 7176 which is required for new Chrysler vehicles"). Also picked up the 2 filters which were manufactured by ATP. All totaled with Tax was approx $40 less than the Chrysler dealer.
By the way- thanks for the mentioning that you had completed the job.
waynesan and myersed.. I too plan on doing my own auto tranny service (assuming it requires no more special tools than mentioned so far) soon. $200 quoted from the dealer is a joke, but I'm ok with the cost of filters and unique fluids. I have done tranny fluid changes on fords and chevys, but so many comments on the complexity of the 45RFEE have me, as bpeebles says "doing alot of research' before I continue. Any comments on the task, such as the special tools such as Torx (which i have) and problems u encountered would be helpful and appreciated
LOL You forgot to mention how much and what kind of frosty libation you plan to use to quench thy thirst! This is REQUIRED of Jesters! Good luck anyhow!
How could I have neglected to define my labor in beers-per-hour??? Think of the $$ savings if I do my own work as an investment in this. So, does this mean I am in need of JESTER-training?
Be it known, my cooler is never far away.. and can be re-filled on very-short notice (Miller Light and Rolling Rock are normal residents in there). And since N.O. weather is still quite warm.. thirst is always a consideration
Seriously, Im concerned I am prepared for this tranny, since the past jobs were on a 93 Ford C6 (if memory serves) and a Chevy van (memory doesnt serve here)
wow...you are one tough jester! At least you are not gulping down Iron City...I heard its made from left over water from a J&L steel plant in Clairton, but who knows? make mine yuenling or coors lite (ET beer)! maybe if I pour some of that down the tranny it will shift better? Yes? no? What have I got to lose right?
Thought that RR was more local PA. My choice is Yuengling Lager with its home about 1.5 hours north of here.
On to a maintenance / potential trouble item. During Sept / Oct, the 4.7 seems to have developed an engine imbalance, 22,000+ miles. At 2,700+ rpms, there is a small but noticeable vibration in the clutch pedal, 5 sp shiftier, and to a lesser degree in the steering wheel. This is strictly engine rpm related and can be produced while sitting still.
As you may remember, since the 10,000 mile mark, I've been taking engine oil samples in to a diesel / heavy equipment dealer for wear metals analysis. The most recent set came back more or less in the same range as before and with the comment "Wear Metals at Acceptable Levels".
I don't "beat" this truck, no 4 wheeling, 99% highway miles but I do like to push 3rd gear (3.55 LSD rear) while merging with traffic from the on-ramps. I've never red-lined the engine during these on-ramp episodes.
My questions are: 1. Could these high-torque episodes cause main or connecting rod bearing damage? 2. Could that type of damage manifest itself in the described 2,700+ rpm vibration? 3. If damage has occurred and is causing the vibration, why haven't the oil analyses indicated a more substantial amount of wear?
Please excuse the tardy reply. 1) I did the change at ground level as I have the 4x4 clearance. Next time I'm going to use 4 jack stands because when I raised the pan, with new silicone atop, I could not get directly underneath the pan to line up the holes as I raised it to the transmission. I had to do it one-handed from the side, thus smearing the silicone during final alignment. 2) You are correct, the torque converter cannot be drained so I only removed 5 quarts. 3) The primary oil filter seal would just not come off. I finally had to deform it with a screwdriver to remove it. BE CAREFUL, the aluminum casing behind same scratches easily. (Let me know if you discover an easier removal method.) 4) What took the longest was cleaning the old silicone off the pan. It took over an hour because between each pan hole is a little trough. I finally resorted to brake cleaner which sped the process along. Hope this helps.
Please see post#1236, I'm just a two finger typist. The Mopar parts were expensive, but since I'm under warranty until 36K, I bit the bullet. 5 qts Mopar ATF +4 $56.88 cooler filter 20.10 Primary filter w/ seal 44.90 silicone 6.49 including tax $138.64
I decided to do the change myself when I learned from a guy in the neighborhood, who also has a new Dakota, had our 5 Star Dealer perform the service and they overfilled his transmission, which later shuddered to a stop. He had it towed back. All they did was drain the excess and said it would be alright. I figured that if they screwed up the fluid filling, what is the quality of the rest of their work.
Did anybody change transfer case fluid? I was wondering if two big bolts on the rear are for draning and filling. How much fluid does it take? I was going to buy Amsoil trans fluid, any suggestions. Thanks!
Ben, why don't you get your facts straight? Iron City Beer is made with water that has been duly purified by running it through an iron worker just one time. Spike, Amen on the Yuengling Lager, a favorite domestic along with Genesee. Spent much time in Utica and Rome, NY.
bookitty - Utica Club, another beer you would bring out after all the good stuff was gone.
I was a bit off on my rpm's. Rather than 2,700 it should have been 1,700, which is basically all of the time. Been using Mobil 1 5-30W since 6,000 mile mark and changed it and the filter every 6 to 7 thousand miles - If that answers any additional questions.
Will be retiring at the end of Feb-02. After taking a 6 mo. vacation and some additional classes, I'm planning to seek employment in 2003 or 2004. Anyone need an energy manager that handled $45 million / yr of natural gas, electricity, heating oil, propane purchases (physical) in USA, Canada and Mexico and can hedge these with financial derivatives in futures market? Will work for big money but don't want to relocate.
it was TWO ironworkers.....now you have me in a quandry. A spelunking mission is at hand now...I must know, one ironworker or two....one if by the Mon, two if by the Ohio. Anyway, filled up at the Sunoco station and the prior tank of BP fuel turned in 15.2 M.P.G on a mix of city and hihway driving. Bad news: No dove, pheasants, grouse, flies, or anything moved today. One lousy squirrel for 4 hours of hunting. Those Sellier and Bellot shells really reach out! 11/15/2001 god bless duck season comes back in here!
BTW, brakes seem to be behaving.... for now anyway. GOing to Indy in December hope by then they still will be behaving.
I still have some empty STONEYS bottles that is made in Smithton PA. The Stoneys factory is right on the "Yough"... I suspect they use only pure Yough water as a raw ingrediant. (Yough = Yougeheineny(sp?) river)
The beer made here in Vermont is more the "english-style".... right near the "Ben and Jerrys" ice-cream factory.
I tried Yuengling last March when I was in King of Prussia(sp?). Loved it. They dont sell it here in Ga, but they do in Tampa Fla where they are now brewing it. My brother in law lives there so when we visit I bring home several cases for my enjoyment. I know this has nothing to do with my Quad, this time it is about the beer.
The lager is the most popular I think. Personally, I prefer the Porter, thick and rich, good flavor. I gave up on Yuengling lager though, I found Syranac Lager, which I think is better. Got more alcohol, too.
mopar67.. ahh words to live by...NOW I have it in writing... tonight it's beer and hotwing nite at Buffalo Wings.... to put my new motto (yes, KarenS.. I have adopted it too)into practice..
Comments
I am strongly considering just replacing the original pads om my Dak with some high-grade pads. Not only will I get better stopping power, it is said that that ugly-black buildup (brake dust) on the front wheels is eliminated. This, in itself would be worth it!!
Anyway, the 12,000 mile mark is approaching fast and I was wondering IF I should bring the truck in to my 5 Star Dealer and tell them I feel something funny with the brakes just so I can get them to eval the brakes and rotors and replace same under warranty PRIOR to the 12,000 mile point where I believe I will have to then eat any brake / rotor work I have done. Appreciate any and all input on this. Thanks! Bill in NY
I have one of the early 2000 Daks (orderd nov 1999) and the brakes have never exibited any problems in almost 30000 miles.
Stick with what works.
Being the "resident technical liazon" for this forum, I am suggesting the following reading.
Page 181 of Dec. 2001 "Sport Truck" magizine.
There is a very informative, step-by-step (7-step) procedure on how to "season" new rotors to reduce warpage. There is also the steps to bed new pads to your now-seasoned rotors.
Perhaps the most important lesson "Never bed pads on unseasoned rotors"
Anyone that knows basic meteallagy can see that the above-referenced process simply heat-treats the rotors by using specific, controlled stops from certain speeds. The heat-cool-heat-cool sequence changes the molecular structure of the rotor material.
The entire article ("Brake buyers guide") is quite informative. It discusses drilled, slotted and other aftermarket brake items too.
By the way, I am approaching the 12 month barrier on my truck, and am very concerned about crossing that threshold and then having to pay for new rotors, etc. I don't think it would hurt billarf to have them checked. Maybe they will find something, maybe not. But it may give him some peace of mind.
into the dealership today. I told them the white lie that the brakes felt strange and asked that they check them over. I also told them I wanted the most current programming for the transmission as it was slamming 3rd gear on occasion.
After two hours waiting for the vehicle the service writer told me the rear wheel drums were
both "out of round" and need to be replaced. He also said they would be replacing the "computer" that dictated to the transmission as it could not be flashed with the most current, updated firmware that Dodge said I should have.
Anyway, parts are on order and I will go back next Monday for install. Oh, rotors and pads were aok and met tolerances. Bill in NY
Good luck...from what I have seen on other boards, its best to go aftermarket on the rotors and drums. Seems once a person does that, brake problems go away.
Rabestos rotors runs 58.52 at the NAPA store in my town. Have not priced out pads yet.
The "aftermarket" stuff is SOOO much better. Better stopping, Better wear resistance, MUCH LESS black brake dust on the front wheels. (that "eats" at the wheels and leaves pits)
at the very least! Bill in NY
For MOPAR automacics.... ALWAYS ALWAYS!! use the the MOPAR-branded fluids lest you may experience problems "down the road".
Keep in mind that in an automatc tranny, the fluid is not only lubricating... It is pumped, it serves as the wet clutch fluid, it cools the parts...etc. (It even pushes the vehicle!!) It has been said many times before... Using the wrong fluid WILL cause the clutches to wear out due to friction characteristics. Also in the new 45RFE tranny, the computer that is controlling the clutch engaugement will get confused. While attempting to compensate for the friction differences, the tranny may destroy itself. (In the 45RFE, there are input-speed and output-speed sensors. The computer engauges the clutches "just enough" to eliminate slippage.)
Also remember that the 45RFE has a different PM schedule than any other automatic transmisstion. If it is not followed, you are asking for trouble. The engineers modified the PM schedule for a reason.
(The PM schedule on the 45RFE is the main reason I orderd the 5-speed manual... Simple math told be I could not afford the cost of doing the PMs that often.)
PM= PreventiveMaintenance
How do you change differential fluids? Do you just suck it out? For a moment I thought that taking off the cover and cleaning all metal particles from the bottom and having all clean oil would do a better job, but is it worth the struggle. Last weekend, when I rotated the tires I checked front breaks, joints etc. I noticed that It's pretty hard to spin the wheels. No wonder the truck needs so much gas to move, rolling really sucks comparing to my wife's Passat. I know truck, tires, etc. From what you said it means that synthetic oil would make differentials move easier, but is it significant to notice the difference?
I need to replace fog lights since I hit a dear. I was very surprised how different it is from driving a car. Not a single screech, just the light. Poor animal! Anyway, I found coupe descent options. Eagle Eye($130) or Optilux by Hella($50), both driving lights.Optilux seams to be too cheap to be any good, but Hella name makes you thinking, after all good brand. I found fog lights pretty useless and having extra light for dark winter roads shouldn't hurt. Maybe I'm wrong. What do you think?
If changing to synth, It is recommended that cover is pulled to help get all of old stuff out. I agree with you that "sucking" it out is MUCH easier and there is no chance of creating a leak. I almost think that do 2 changes by "sucking" (perhaps 500 miles apart) would be easier than going thru the hassle of removing the cover. It might cost a bit more in $$ but the savings in time/hassle may make up for it. The end result woud be a complete change to synthetic.
Using Synth in differentials, xfer case, and manual tranny:
Some folks have reported that their differential was hot-to-the-touch after driving. This heat is a direct result of friction and "oil churn" within the pumpkin. One person even reported that his differential was ruined by towing because there was no synth in it. Given these facts, one can surmise that changing to synthetic may improve MPG situation by way of reduced friction and churning..
What do you consider "significant"? In my mind, If I can get another mile out of a gallon of gas this is significant. (especially if I run my truck for 130,000 miles)
Fog lights;
I am 100% for more light. Anyone that has driven in a snowstorm at night knows that headlights are useless due to light reflecting off of the 'sparkley' snowflakes right back into your eyes. Only yellow fog lights properly mounted LOW to the ground will allow you to see well enough to drive safely. I prefer to turn OFF the headlamps and use only the fogs under certain conditions. (25 years of driving Vermont winter experience)
Driving Lights:
As opposed to FOGlamps, DRIVING lights need to be mounted HIGH as possible. (as Laws permit) Ideally, mounting on TOP of the cab would provide the best light.
I prefer the HELLA or BOSCH lights because replacement lenses are available when the occasional stone (or deer) breaks the lens.
Drive Safe,
Joe
For info Fumoto oil drain valve go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com
For sizing on various vehicles go to:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/merchant.cfm
Buy from Summit Racing for $19.99
Bill in NY
(N stands for nipple)on your Dodge 4.7L Magnum. Bill in NY
Here is the process I followed. (Since I have a strong engineering background... I must have a process ;-)
Type of plug:
I researched Edmunds , the DML, and several other Dakota information sources. (I also own the BOB) I took a lot of notes during my research and compiled all data. Some folks even did dyno-runs or 1/4mile drags on various plugs.
Bottom line.. The very best sparkplug on the market today is the Denso Iridium (BKR6W1X (6418) ) But this is VERY hard to find and is about US$12 each. So I went with Bosch +4 #4418 at about $6 each at NAPA. The gap(s) on the +4 is NOT adjustable and should NEVER change even over many miles of use.
Installation:
ENGINE MUST BE STONE COLD DUE TO ALUMINIUM HEADS!!
Removed intake plenum (not a problem for me because I have a "homebrew" intake allready)
I did one plug at a time as such;
- Compressed air to remove any debris that may fall into holes.
- pull connector from coil.
- 10mm socket to remove nut that holds down coil.
- Coil pulls straight out (do not pull on connector)
- Use LONG extension on sparkplug wrench. (this is a HEHI afterall)
- Apply NEVER SEEZE on new plug threads
- run new plug all the way in and back out by hand 2-3 times to spread NEVER SEEZE.
- Snug plug about 1/4 turn from hand tignt.
- Apply silicone grease on coil o-ring and rubber insulator
- Coil pushes into hole, lining up over stud
- replace 10mm nut
Notes:The 2 alumininum heater-core pipes must be unclipped and moved a bit. I also removed a 10mm nut and pulled the EEC solinoid from the firewall to move it out of the way (all hoses left connected) I am no stranger to mechanical work and this took me almost 1.5 hours. (Yes...I took my time and did the job right)
Conclutions:
At first, I was concerned that the +4 plugs were almost $50. Now, I am glad that I will NOT have to touch the plugs again for about 5 years. If I had gone with the original Champion's I would have been doing this again in another 2 years.
Ron35
Suggestions on how to treat it are much appreciated. I'm not sure of that brush on rust stop goop.. This is small enough to avoid the dealer and shop time and I can do it in an afternoon in the garage
..
Ron35
Also have had a pull to the right, again twice checked by the dealer. Last time they did an alinement, but said the air pressiure in my right front tire was only 10 psi. I told them if it was that low, I couldn't have even driven it in without the tire falling off the rim. Besides I had checked the air in each tire that morning right before driving to the dealer and made sure each had 35 psi. Unless the valve stuck open, I just don't see how it was possible. Any thoughts on why the pull to the right?
For what it's worth, the aforementioned procedure requires a Torx T-25 (male) to remove the primary oil filter and a 65mm end cap oil filter wrench to remove the cooler return filter.
P.S. It is very difficult to extract the primary oil filter seal without destroying it.
1- were you able to do the job easily at ground level without a lift? I have done this several times with my old 2WD F150 in the garage however it seems my F150 had 1-2" additional clearance.
2-Did you only drain the pan/filter, or did you also pull the transmission lines. (I understand that you can only remove approximately 5-6 quarts because the converter can not be drained)
3- What was the issue with pulling the primary filter and do you have any recommendations?
4-How successful were you with the silicone seal (no gasket). I had the same concern. Any recommendations here?
I am planning to change mine in the next couple weeks now that it is a little cooler and I won't have to sweat my butt off. I picked up 6 qts of Valvoline ATF3+(package states "contains anti-shudder additives to matching Type 7176 which is required for new Chrysler vehicles"). Also picked up the 2 filters which were manufactured by ATP. All totaled with Tax was approx $40 less than the Chrysler dealer.
By the way- thanks for the mentioning that you had completed the job.
Good luck anyhow!
Be it known, my cooler is never far away.. and can be re-filled on very-short notice (Miller Light and Rolling Rock are normal residents in there). And since N.O. weather is still quite warm.. thirst is always a consideration
Seriously, Im concerned I am prepared for this tranny, since the past jobs were on a 93 Ford C6 (if memory serves) and a Chevy van (memory doesnt serve here)
make mine yuenling or coors lite (ET beer)! maybe if I pour some of that down the tranny it will shift better? Yes? no? What have I got to lose right?
On to a maintenance / potential trouble item. During Sept / Oct, the 4.7 seems to have developed an engine imbalance, 22,000+ miles. At 2,700+ rpms, there is a small but noticeable vibration in the clutch pedal, 5 sp shiftier, and to a lesser degree in the steering wheel. This is strictly engine rpm related and can be produced while sitting still.
As you may remember, since the 10,000 mile mark, I've been taking engine oil samples in to a diesel / heavy equipment dealer for wear metals analysis. The most recent set came back more or less in the same range as before and with the comment "Wear Metals at Acceptable Levels".
I don't "beat" this truck, no 4 wheeling, 99% highway miles but I do like to push 3rd gear (3.55 LSD rear) while merging with traffic from the on-ramps. I've never red-lined the engine during these on-ramp episodes.
My questions are: 1. Could these high-torque episodes cause main or connecting rod bearing damage? 2. Could that type of damage manifest itself in the described 2,700+ rpm vibration? 3. If damage has occurred and is causing the vibration, why haven't the oil analyses indicated a more substantial amount of wear?
1) I did the change at ground level as I have the 4x4 clearance. Next time I'm going to use 4 jack stands because when I raised the pan, with new silicone atop, I could not get directly underneath the pan to line up the holes as I raised it to the transmission. I had to do it one-handed from the side, thus smearing the silicone during final alignment.
2) You are correct, the torque converter cannot be drained so I only removed 5 quarts.
3) The primary oil filter seal would just not come off. I finally had to deform it with a screwdriver to remove it. BE CAREFUL, the aluminum casing behind same scratches easily. (Let me know if you discover an easier removal method.)
4) What took the longest was cleaning the old silicone off the pan. It took over an hour because between each pan hole is a little trough. I finally resorted to brake cleaner which sped the process along.
Hope this helps.
The Mopar parts were expensive, but since I'm under warranty until 36K, I bit the bullet.
5 qts Mopar ATF +4 $56.88
cooler filter 20.10
Primary filter w/ seal 44.90
silicone 6.49
including tax $138.64
I decided to do the change myself when I learned from a guy in the neighborhood, who also has a new Dakota, had our 5 Star Dealer perform the service and they overfilled his transmission, which later shuddered to a stop. He had it towed back. All they did was drain the excess and said it would be alright. I figured that if they screwed up the fluid filling, what is the quality of the rest of their work.
a favorite domestic along with Genesee. Spent much time in Utica and Rome, NY.
Bookitty
I was a bit off on my rpm's. Rather than 2,700 it should have been 1,700, which is basically all of the time. Been using Mobil 1 5-30W since 6,000 mile mark and changed it and the filter every 6 to 7 thousand miles - If that answers any additional questions.
Will be retiring at the end of Feb-02. After taking a 6 mo. vacation and some additional classes, I'm planning to seek employment in 2003 or 2004. Anyone need an energy manager that handled $45 million / yr of natural gas, electricity, heating oil, propane purchases (physical) in USA, Canada and Mexico and can hedge these with financial derivatives in futures market? Will work for big money but don't want to relocate.
Anyway, filled up at the Sunoco station and the prior tank of BP fuel turned in 15.2 M.P.G on a mix of city and hihway driving.
Bad news: No dove, pheasants, grouse, flies, or anything moved today. One lousy squirrel for 4 hours of hunting. Those Sellier and Bellot shells really reach out! 11/15/2001 god bless duck season comes back in here!
BTW, brakes seem to be behaving.... for now anyway.
GOing to Indy in December hope by then they still will be behaving.
(Yough = Yougeheineny(sp?) river)
The beer made here in Vermont is more the "english-style".... right near the "Ben and Jerrys" ice-cream factory.
For cheap drinkin' ya can't beat Jacob Best.
Benjamin Franklin (1700's sometime)
I won't argue with that!
KarenS
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