Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

livnlrn · April 2002

Thanks for looking that up. I knew they were neg switched from looking up the correct flasher. Ya coulda just left a note on my windshield I guess too eh? Thanks again.

ahasher · April 2002

..I finally have a weekend off so its out to pep-boys or auto-zone for plugs for my 2000 4.7. I saw 50,000 miles go by today so its time. The debate over Autolite and Bosch has gone on for a while.. any final thoughts on one over the other?? bpeebles.. from an engineering point.. for a no regular towing; mostly commuting; light hauling and light town driving QC... does it matter? $$ not really an issue for this.. just a set that is most compatible with the 4.7...

My cooler will be on ready alert once I have the plugs in hand...also the weather will finally allow an under hood check-up... time for preventative maintenance

bpeebles · April 2002

The debate is over... everyone has their own prefrences. When I did my research (over 5 websites searching for days) The Bosch+4 came out as preferred 5-1 over all other plugs.

Given that one does not change the plugs often, it makes since to go with higher-quality stuff that will go the distance. (How can a 97cent sparkplug compare to a 5$ one in quality?) The Bosch with nickle-plated threads, copper-core, platinum tip and silicon-ceramic insulator is far superiour to the others.

I have experienced the "cheep" sparkplugs actually seezing in the hole and break off when removal was attempted. (Can you guess what was needed to fix this?)
Did you know that this year is the 100th anneversery for the invention of the sparkplug... and BOSCH was the inventer!!

ahasher · April 2002

thanks for the input... a few $$ for a quality plug is worth it for me. The part number for bosch + 4 is 4418 as you have stated in previous posts but so far no auto parts place has a Bosch listing for the 4.7.. but the Grand Cherokee 4.7 is the kicker. Bosch needs to get it updated... Oh well going in the AM to get a set of +4 Bosch plugs...

sacprof · April 2002

Hi, First time poster, long time reader. This site is a great resource for understanding problems before explaining them to the service dept. I have a 97 extended cab, 4x4, auto, 318 engine, 65k miles. Has been a great truck. A/C condenser replaced at ~50k, thats all. Change my own oil & rotate tires myself. Started to get the low frequency brake pedal pulsation at about 50k. I have a lot of freeway miles so that may be why I didn't see that at lower milage.
I've read enough from this site to understand the brake problem needs new, good quality rotors to cure. My current problem is seemingly intermittent low beams. I accidently found that it occurs only when I bring the tilt steering wheel down to normal drive position. Wheel up, low beams on, down just a little bit and lights off.
Does anyone have any history or memory as to whether this might be a switch, or a wire harness problem? I thought I'd ask before I get into it. Electrical problems are hard to trace and any suggestions would be appreciated.

bobs5 · April 2002

Possible electrical problem in the tilt steering wheel electrical connections? CLOCK SPRING? http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/central2.cfm

jebsdaddy · April 2002

Be sure and remove the old plugs once the engine is completely cool! Otherwise the threads in the head may come out with the plug and you don't want that. Also, use anti-seize on the new plug threads before you install them. Torque the plugs to the recommended tightness.

mopar67 · April 2002

To those with 2000 Daks.
I can provide information on TSB for those who ask. I have a subsctiption to alldata.com for the next year.
I cannot offer up anything for 1999, 2001, or 2002 as TSB tend to be model year specific.

FYI....900 miles on the hamster and she's chugging along...I miss the v-8 sometimes though.

jhorl · April 2002

to do my mid week brake job. I am the proud owner of two Raybestos PG rotors for 60 bucks each and Raybestos ceramic pads for 90. A couple of questons before I get started....do the clips that hold the rotors on get damaged when removing or should I get a new set....Anybody do wheel bearings yet and how were they to get to...Also any other input would be appreciated. I'll be sure to let everybody know how it turns out...

(sacprof) When my 2000 Dak was two months old I developed a scraping noise within the steering wheel and a week later my cruise control wouldnt work and the airbag light came on..The problem was the clock spring so give that a shot first.

Thanks all
John

bcarter3 · April 2002

Good news: front wheel bearings are not serviced. They are sealed and lubricated for life. Bad news: life is sometimes short. Then you have to replace the hub assembly and it is certain to be a Dealer only item. Good luck.

ahasher · April 2002

and I didnt break the pipe clamps..altho it was so brittle I doubt it would stand another unclipping. The old champion plugs had an unusual burn pattern.. all 8 had one side of the electrode worn down and at 50,000 miles definitely were gonners. Took my time with the Bosch plugs..even used compressed air to blow out debris from the plug hole before I removed the old plugs.
Post install test drive and it idles even better.. more power at lower RPMs (to me anyway) and feels better at highway speeds too... definitely the plugs to use in the 4.7..

mopar67 · April 2002

You forgot one important fact.

How many beers do you rate this job?

My zuki will be less cause its only got four plugs to monkey with!

ahasher · April 2002

my oversight on the beer rating is unforgiveable. a 4 beer job.. 2 per side of the block ( 3 If I had broken the brittle hose brackets). However that made the test drive happen the next morning.. due to I was tired, it was late and my liquid reward ;-0.. So I opted to test drive it on my way to Buffalo Wild Wings to watch the race at Talladega (sp)..
but you will be monkeying with the zuki as soon as you can, Im sure ...

mopar67 · April 2002

Lots of stuff under that hood to keep that hamster company. Plus, I'll bet its all metric too!
Not much on there that looks like it could be modified save for the air intake and the throttle body. At least it has coil on plug ignition.

Heck, I might get bored and throw a catback on there, some headers, and some hi protein feed for the hamster.

rogruthzan · April 2002

Well they're finally in and alls well to great. I'll let you know in a few more days. Filled up the tank and will be testing out tomorrow in real life conditions. The little I got to drive it today seemed smoother and better pick-up. Was doing 80 before I knew it. Thought I was doing 60... The old Champians were as ahasher describes-- burnt down on one side. I wonder what will happen to these with the .4 mm diameter electrode in 30k? Talk more in a couple of days. In two weeks I'll drive down to Corpus Christi-- we'll see about milage. It used to do 20 + mpg highway with plus gas, 25k ago. Got down to 17-18 recently. Hope to get it up there again. Cross your fingers.

bluebayou · April 2002

rogruthzan - Way to go!! Thanks for being a pioneer!! I hope all goes well with your tests!

I would bet that using the iridiums would be like using a little higher performance ignition. Everybody adds MSD coils to their non coil on plug systems to bump up the voltage and create a better spark, so why wouldn't a plug that sparks with less voltage be any different?

Happy motoring and keep us informed.

Blue!

saskquad · April 2002

I have 13k miles on my 2001 4.7l with the original champion plugs . The other day I was checking a few things over and I decided to pull out one plug to see how they were burning.I was surprised to find that the plug electrode was severely worn on one side . The plug was white on the one side and slightly glazed black on the worn side. The plug looked worse than quality plugs I've seen with 50k miles on.This doesn't surprise me , Ive seen many problems with champion plugs over the years. I will be changing them all soon.
The truck runs pretty good but new plugs won't hurt.

rogruthzan · April 2002

Today in stop and go traffic for 70 miles and the gauge is still stuck on full and hasn't budged, and it's just regular gas. If it stays there another 70 miles I'll be very very happy and surprised... but the highway non-stop will be the test. So far it's showing great pick-up, lots better than I remember it ever having. But I should add that I also put in a K & N Filter last month and a Flowmaster dual exhaust... Sounds like a lot more than a 4.7L-- not so much that I went with loud tips, just 3 inch pipe. One thing I have noticed is that it idles at .5-.6k warm and it used to irregularly and rough at .3-.4k with the air off. I'll keep an eye on that.

More in a couple of weeks when it all settles in better. I'll admit though that I am once again enjoying the drive!

jhorl · April 2002

Just finished the Brake job using Raybestos Ceramic pads and new Raybestos Rotors. A quick drive around the parking lot and they feel great. I remember there was a post, I think bpeebles, about how to best break in a new set of rotors and pads. Can somebody please refresh my memory.
Thank you
John

nwdodgeguy · April 2002

So, here is what I have figured out about the "rumbling" in the cab in my 2001 4.7 19,700 mile Dak. As I posted before, it is only felt when you are stopped. Well, I've discovered that turning on the fan makes it worse and turning on the air conditioning with the fan running makes it even worse. What the heck is that all about. It settles a bit with the fan off, but turn on that fan for some fresh air or to defrost the windows, and the "rumbling" just gets more severe. Does that trigger any ideas as to what is going on for anyone?

stnick · April 2002

Al, the ac/ heat fan motor is fairly easy to see and feel. under glove box area I think. See if you can feel any vibration with your hand when its running. Also check and see if when you reposition your air vent controls and temp control to see if that makes any difference. When you activate the ac, the auxillary electric cooling fan behind the radiator will turn on, and you should be able to tell with the hood up if it running smooth. Just some suggestions, good luck, Nick

waynesan · April 2002

My 2001 4.7 Auto 4WD 14K, pings or misses when under a load, ie: rapid acceleration or up a hill when the transmission downshifts bringing the RPM's above 2500. It almost sounds like a diesel.
The service person says it might be a leaking intake manifold. Any suggestions? Has anyone had a similar problem? Otherwise the truck runs fine; I really hate to bring it in. Thanks.

wetwillie · April 2002

Bring it in post haste! I've have too much experience with this - if it's that bad (i.e. -sounds like a diesel under load), it likely is your intake manifold and you need to get it fixed right away, as driving it in this condition is damaging to the engine! I'm on my fourth gasket, (each repaired under warranty) and even though I have a different engine(5.2L), your symptoms sound identical to mine. They're having problems with the sealing characteristics of the composite manifold.

waynesan · May 2002

Thank you for posting your experience with the leaking intake manifolds. I have a dealer appointment Thursday. Waynesan.

henne · May 2002

anybody remember how many quarts are needed to flush the 2001 multispeed auto for the 4.7 tranny and to change the transfer case fluid on the parttime 4x4 with the atf+4?

Thanks,

Robert

sagemo · May 2002

I have a 2001 Dakota club cab, 3.9 V6. with 20K miles. There has recently started an annoying whining noise coming from the fuel pump. Most noticeable with rear slider open and at idle. Dealer replaced fuel pump module and noise returned within a week. Now dealer says fuel pump noise is not excessive and is common for this truck. Is anyone experiencing this problem.

Thanks

bpeebles · May 2002

(jhorl)

I too, have some ceramic pads on order for my 2000 Dakota (I allready have the powerslot rotors waiting to be installed.) NAPA tells me that the ONLY place they could find Ceramic pads was in Dallas. (I am in Vermont)

Here is the URL about properly seasoning the rotors and then bedding the pads.

http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html

jhorl · May 2002

bpeebles

I really got a run around getting the pads but finally secured a set from an auto parts store in PA. The store is AA auto and when I get home i'll post the number. So far 800 miles and they seem real smooth and Quiet. It dosent eliminate the dust but is much better. I'm running them on a set of Raybestos PG rotors so I'm hoping they hold up better than stock. I think I probably should have went with a pair Powerslots like yourself. Oh well. Back brakes will be next.

Thanks for the reply
John

amend1 · May 2002

Just an FYI for those interested. Prior to driving upstate NY last week, I changed my oil- 2000 Quad Cab, 4.7L, 4WD, auto, 3.55, 24000 miles, and put in Penzoil 5W-30 synthetic. It had been getting oil changes at the dealer with regular stuff as it was free. I decided to "break out" and put some good stuff in. Driving with a full load of firewood usually got me to my destination with about 1/4 tank of gas left. I used less gas this time, arriving with just under half tank. It worked out to around 18-19 MPG- quite an improvement. I also installed the Air Force One intake. I don't know if it helped the gas mileage, but it sounds awesome!! Maybe all that talk about synthetics is true..... Anyway, haven't posted in a while- my Dakota has none of the clunking, popping or whatever noises some owners are describing. I couldn't be happier and I hope everyone is able to come to good resolution with their difficulties.

henne · May 2002

Well I took my truck 4.7, auto, 4x4 3.92 into the dealer last Tuesday and picked it up same evening. I had them fix almost all of my problems but the pinging under load with all octanes is still there and according to the dealer is normal (if it is normal why did it start doing it at about 14k miles?) but not near as bad as after I put some of the BG 44k stuff in the fuel to clean the injectors and the intake manifold.(Boy what a difference)I think I will try and get a bottle of Techron and see if that finishes things on the pinging issue.

While it was there I also had them change the transfer case fluid (didnt have any allen that would fit) and flush the tranny with Amsoil ATF+4 approved fluid. I had already changed the fluid in both differentials and I have been using synth in the motor already so now it is all synth.

Well, the next day when I went to work I noticed the tranny seemed to slip a little and I also needed gas so after I filled it up with fuel and checked my fluids, the tranny dip was dry as a bone. I happened to have a quart of the Mopar ATF+4 under my back seat and I dumped it in and it was just showing up on the dipstick. Well luckily I was near my Amsoil guy so I went to his place and we took a sample of the transmission fluid and topped it off with another quart. I hope there was no damage to the tranny and the sample should show if there was.

Well, I called the service manager at my dealer and left him a message as to what had happened and told him I would get back with him after I got the results back. (My luck huh?) Luckily the tranny feels great with it full of fluid so I hope no damage was sone.

Well anyway, I am thinking of changing the plugs to the Bosch +4. Anybody have anything negative to say about them? I think maybe that might help with my pinging issue, any ideas?

Sorry so long but you know me, always a soap opera in my life.

Good luck all,

Robert

mopar67 · May 2002

I recall you had a boatload of problems with your hiney before.....so how is it doing now?

When you get back, I'd roast the a*hole who "forgot" to refill your tranny. That's crap, just total crap! Which makes me believe that there simply ain't much to those ASE patches "technicians" wear these days.
Good luck.

henne · May 2002

My hiney is great since Dodge replaced the whole truck. I think those ASE patches are like the little plastic sheriff badges I use to play with when I was 6 years old. Any child can get one!!! LOL....

Disclaimer: This post was in no way meant to hurt anyones ittle wittle fewings about the ASE patches. Just a Joke! hehehaha LOL... and so on

)

Robert

mopar67 · May 2002

I don't have my dak anymore; part of the reason was the ASE fellows that never could see eye to eye with me on how an auto xmission should shift. Rather than fight city hall, I let DC know in a harshly worded letter what I thought of their product development as well as how they were training their technicians these days. I have long maintained that there is far too much reliance on the DRB tool to check codes. If no codes show, then in their eyes, there is no problem. Never mind that the crazy thing slams like hell on the 2-3 upshift AND I had a TSB that specifically addressed that issue.
Not that DC is alone in this, I am sure it exists across all makes and models these days.

Well glad to hear your rig is running good for you anyway.

sunburn · May 2002

I've noticed recently, that whenever I make sharp turns with my 02 QC, I get a clunking and popping sound out of the front end. The problem is worse when turning and going over a bump or curb. Is this the dreaded front end noises that seem to plague many Dakotas? If so, I found a fix. The back of the lower control arm has a 1" W x 2" H surface protruding out of it, right next to the ball joint. On the hub, there is a similar size surface. When the wheels are turned at full lock, these two surfaces meet. This keeps the wheels from turning too far. Since this is metal on metal contact, it is very noisy. To fix this, I put a dab of grease on each side. This eliminated the noise. My old Toyota used to have a similar setup. Toyota was a bit smarter. They put plastic caps on these stops. However, over time, the caps wore off, and you were left with metal to metal contact. My local Toyota dealer told me about the grease trick. I usually had to grease it about twice a year. Hope this helps.

dodgetrukn · May 2002

I got the pop/clunk also..someone took pics..
See this link..http://www.dakota-truck.net/faq/Chassis/gen3_turning_noise.html
'01 quad 4.7L 3.92 lsd. DodgeTrukn

sunburn · May 2002

dodgetrukn - Yup, that's the problem. I do, however, disagree with the conclusion in the link you posted. The interference between the control arm and hub, I believe, is intentional. It prevents the wheels from turning too far and prevents damage to the wheels, wheel wells, and steering linkages under severe usage conditions. The design flaw, is the fact that they allow metal-to-metal contact. They should of followed Toyota's lead and covered them with a durable plastic. However, even this will wear and fail over time. Looks like periodic greasing is the only solution.

stnick · May 2002

I had a similar noise on a 95 Ford Ranger 4X4 after I had it for awhile. It had their "traction beam" front end back then. If you were turning sharp into a drive etc, the noise was horrific! Turned out Ford had a bolt stop to keep from turning too far much as you describe our Daks front end. I would just put a little grease on the bolt heads once and awhile when it started making noise. So now if the 02 QC does this I will remember what it is. My 00 Quad though did start creeking badly when ever the front end dipped. The dealer service dept replaced the front torsion bar bushing, 4 of them, and no more noise. Nick.

bookitty · May 2002

Robert, with all of the troubles you have encountered, I am surprised that you are not treated as a V.I.P. type customer. However, some people never learn (they really don't want to learn). Go back to the dealer and have the service manager line up with all of the so called ASE (am I spelling it correctly?), and start training them for their next career by teaching them to say: :Do you want fries with that?"

Bookitty

rogruthzan · May 2002

Well I didn't get to Corpus but did get to Houston from Austin. (Change of plans.) At 150 miles, close to 21 MPG... I thought that could not be, so on the way back I filled it all the way up as only 1/4 tank used, and drove it back with air on and doing 90 to 65. Didn't get as good milage at 19. I think that my brother may have tinkered with it a little more than I thought too, as I didn't remember if I rebooted the on-board diagnostics after the new plugs, or even the prior intake and flowmaster exhaust... Anyway he disconnected the battery and touched the negative to positive for a few minutes to clear the pram.

Idles a little better at 500 rpm though. He said he hasn't seen anyone do below that. So I'm not as concerned as I was. The trip was with close to needing an oil change, trans flush and axle oil. (And truck un-waxed.) The next time I go on a trip (2-3 weeks) should decide if these Iridium plugs were a good choice as I'll do the new oil soon before any trip.

So far at just 1k, my Dakota '01 4.7L 4X4 QC runs great with the Danso Iridium plugs. No problems. Incredible pick-up. Do recommend.

henne · May 2002

I went to the grocery store and I tried to put the driver window up and guess what, Nuttin! I looked down and since it was getting dusk I should have seen the little lights at the tips of the switches but again, Nuttin! I tinkered and tinkered and ya know what, Nuttin! Well I turned off the engine turned the key back on but not to start and the lights on the switches came back on and the window worked. Anyone ever have this problem?

Well I am moving to Fremont California in a month from Northern Virgina and I hope some of you know of a good dealer out there. Do ya? As you all know I am on a first name basis with 2 dealers here in Virginia and with the D/C reps. So it would be great to have a good contact in Cali so that after I tow my wifes car over 2800 miles I am sure I will be visiting the local dealer there with my track record on these dakotas, on my 3rd by the way. Did I mention that already? I cant remember its been so many! LOL....

Sorry I dont post alot of upgrade stuff but I can tell you how many beers it normally takes for most problems if any of you ever need that info.

This problem is a 3 beer job since it also started raining when I got to the store and I was scared about the window not rolling up so it earned 3 beers.

Sorry so long just kinda happy now that I have had my drinks.

Robert

))

joehoe · May 2002

Ah yes... the comforts of high technology...

I once had a shifting problem in my '93 - happened twice I think - and then never again...

I stopped - shut down the engine, restarted and problem went away.

We have a lot of computer glitches at work - I should be thankful these trucks work as well as they do with all the electronic systems involved.

furrydog1 · May 2002

I actually had that same problem with the power windows 2 weeks ago but I thought I was just imagining things. I backed into my driveway, put it in park and tried to put the window up..and nothing(no, the window locks weren't on, I checked). Turned it off and then turned the key 3/4 and the windows went up. Who knows what happened. Hopefully its not a degenerative problem. That's about the only problem (hiccup) I've had after 7500 miles.

bookitty · May 2002

Robert, with all of the problems you have faced, I am happy that you are moving from Northern VA to Fremont, CA. This way, you have put greater distance between us (I am in PA) in the event that what you have is contagious. Just kidding Robert, I hope that you enjoy CA. Plus, I believe that you are owed a good deal of "good luck" in that you certainly have shared in the other type.

Bookitty

tuvtest · May 2002

I thought I was the only one with this problem as I never saw it show up on any of the boards, or it was related to an accident I had. I did a little investigating and the windows are on a self resetting 25A circuit breaker. If something overloads the circuit the breaker trips but resets after cooling to a certain point, maybe not necessarily in relation to switching off/on the ignition. There is also a 50A fuse in the block under the hood that also controls the wipers, so if both circuits are out you'll have to look there for fixing the problem.

On mine it is an intermittant problem so it is hard to track. I have been trying to pay attention to when it happens, and of course it hasn't been since I started watching. But, my question is, could there be a relationship to the weather? was it raining or humid when it occured to you guys?

henne · May 2002

We have had a number of storms recently and it was just starting to sprinkle when I had my problem. I tried everything to make the window go up and nothing worked until I shut the engine and turned the key to the accessory position and the windows started working.

PS: I am going to go visit Bookitty and drive his truck before I move so he can take over my Luck/Position as the D/C Lab Rat in the NE!!!!!

Thanks to everyone for your responses.

Robert

furrydog1 · May 2002

I'm in Colorado and it was dry as a bone when I had my window glitch. On another note, my front end is creaking and groaning when I stop and go over bumps now. I've got about 7800 miles on it right now. I'm not going to panic yet, this is a truck and noises are to be expected. Right?

bcarter3 · May 2002

For those interested, Alldata now has the 2001 TSB's and all the other info they usually provide. To get the complete TSB's you need to subscribe, of course.

Karen_S · May 2002

Good luck with your move! Hope it goes without a hitch..uh...maybe you'll need that hitch. ;-)

KarenS
Host
Owners Clubs

sunburn · May 2002

The Detroit News had an interesting article on DC's plan to improve vehicle quality. The link is:

http://detnews.com/2002/insiders/0205/13/insider-486681.htm

Happy reading...

furrydog1 · May 2002

The article is a good read. Hopefully I didn't buy my "Daimler Dakota" too early to take advantage of the improved quality.

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions