Just put in a new set of NGK platinum plugs today. And since I had the air box off I decided to run to Home Depot to grab the parts to modify the intake between the filter and the throttle body as I recall you had done. All went well, I was just wondering if you had noticed any results with this modifacion, or if you had added an Airaid syle filter at the end in replace of the factory box. Still on the mission to find powerslot rotors and that will be next. Thanks
I'm stationed in Colorado Springs and drive a 2001 SLT Club Cab, 4.7L, auto trns. I recently installed an Airaid intake and noticed an immediate 2 MPG (11 to 13 MPG) improvement in CITY driving. I'm sure that at lower altitudes the gain would be greater, but there's NO AIR up here for my baby to breathe.
Does anyone have any further suggestions to counteract the altitude?!?! I'm looking to find the power/response that I had when I bought the truck in San Antonio. I'm still feeding her 87 octane as per the owner's manual.
How are the NGKs working out? I plan to use Bosch Platinums when the time comes. I used them in my first Dakota ('93 Sport, 3.9 V-6) and they were great.
(mrjake) I did not notice any significant change. Perhaps a little less low end grunt and a bit more high-RPM pull.
This is consistent with what most folks report. The factory air-intake plenum has some tuning ports that seem to improve low-end grunt but hinder above 3000 RPM HP.
ready10, I also live in the Springs area. It seems kind of odd but I actually get a little better gas mileage here than I did in the Omaha area (16 vs 17)in mixed driving. I run the 85 octane and recently had to change the plugs so I went with Autolites. I have a 2000 4.7 4X4 SLT plus, with the 3.92 rear gears. I am also running a K&N airfilter and have the full time 4X4. I am pleased with the MPG.
Has anybody with a 4.7 liter with the multispeed auto done a transmission fluid change themselves. I'm just over 32000 miles and I would like to do the tranny, new shocks and lubricate the anti-sway bar bushings like some of you have done. I understand that Daimler Chrystler has a new type 4 ATF out, but would rather put in a Redline Product if it is available and wont screw up the tempermental tranny. John
My 5 star Dodge dealer is still working on replacing the rear main seal of my 24,000 mile Dak 9 days later. They keep coming up with reasons why its not done. I can't imagine it should take this long to replace the seal. Anyone know why this part would give out so quickly. I've only driven this truck in normal day to day driving. Never offroad. I'm afraid to take it offroad now.
Drivers side window decided it didn't want to come down anymore. (had been sqeeking for a few months now) At least it died in the up position. Anyway, dealer says needs a new regulator, will take 3 days to get it. Nice 5 ***** service. Good thing I got a motorcycle to get around on.
2 oil leaks - Rear Main Seal and Oil Pan gaskets replaced.
Tranny Fluid leaks - Output Shaft seal replaced
Left Hub bearing loose - replaced faulty bearings
Dealer said all these problems were original factory manufacturing flaws. Mabey its just me, but the tranny seems to shift smoother now that they pulled it out and put it back in.
Just wondering which dealer you are going through as I also live in the Portland area? I have managed to avoid the dealer since buying my 2000 at Dick's Country Dodge in Hillsboro, but may need to pay a visit soon.
I've taken it to Bryan Bickmore Dodge over on Canyon Road, simply because it's the only 5 star rated dealer on my side of town. In my experience, they don't deserve the 5 star rating (a rating that is meaningless, apparently.) If you go to Dick's Country, let me know how they treat you there, since it's closer to my house than any of them. I didn't buy the truck in Oregon, by the way. Good luck.
This board has been very helpful in the past and I am hoping somebody with a service manual can help once again.
I need to have my carpet replaced (thieves broke into my truck and stole my Sirius Satellite Radio System ripping the carpet in the process)and wanted to make sure the installers torque the Seat nuts/bolts to the right specs. I know this can be an important safety issue due to the recall I received concerning this torque rating.
Any info concerning the proper torque would be greatly appreciated.
jhorl- I changed my tranny fluid at 27000. Used Amsoil universal synthetic ATF. No problems other than faulty initial installation of the tranny filter. Be careful installing that.
Bench Seat to floor pan, Rear bolt 20ft lbs / Front bolt 30 ft lbs / Bucket seat track to floor Pan Front bolt 20 ft lbs / Rear inboard bolt 30 ft lbs /Rear outboard bolt 20 ft lbs.
cowtownkid: I don't own the QC but I do have the Service Manual. Bench seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs. Aft bolts 30 ft.lbs. Bucket seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs. Aft inboard 30 ft.lbs. Aft outboard 20 ft.lbs. There isn't any torque information for the rear seat. The Manual just says "tighten fasteners". Hope this helps. Dick
Bought a used (2000 4WD SLT Plus Quad-Cab 4.7 Auto-trans) last night with 20600 miles. Beautiful Truck!! ) I still have a year of the factory warranty; original owner bought truck on 27 SEP 2000 so it gets me to 27 SEP 2003. To be honest I have always owned Fords. Three actually a Ranger & 2 each F150s. I know Fords inside out. But like I said that Quad-Cab looked so dawgone good. I could not resist its allure right price and perfect for growing family and well. Now its in my driveway.
OK enough background. Here is my dilemma. I did not do all my homework reference reliability/integrity/quality issues. However; cost I researched and got a great deal. Last night when I got home I began to scrutinize this and other forms on-line, anyway; to say I was distressed is putting it mildly! I saw numerous posts that were really full of terrible stuff.
For example; major auto transmission problems/catastrophic failures, seals in drive train leaking into A/C creating stench in cab when A/C is used, tendency for truck to drift to the right even when proper alignment has been conducted (my truck is doing this and the dealer has agreed to fix it) Serious electrical problems/malfunctions with door locks etc. There were many others but these were major themes I discovered as I scanned the posts.
Tell me this truck model/brand is not a big sexy Lemon! Needing the truth and your help! Thanks Russ
according to your profile it appears you own the same type of truck I am concerned about . Any input/advice you can give me based on my previous post would be appreciated. Thanks
Russ, I have the 2000 4.7 Auto and have had no problems to date. I also have a 91 5.2 Auto Dakota that is still going strong with 123K on it. No transmission problems with either one. I love the 5.2 (318), but the 4.7 seems like a superior engine. The multi-speed auto seems like a vast improvement also. I really wouldn't worry about it if I were you. Just enjoy!
I received my truck in march of 2000, I now have 32,000 miles on it. The only problem I have had is the crankshaft sensor went bad at about 20,000 miles, this was apparently a quick fix at the Dodge house as they only had my truck 1/2 day. I also have the warped rotor problem that everyone else seems to have and plan on buying Raybestos rotors soon. Other than these two problems my truck has performed flawlessly, no rattles, squeaks, or clunks. All electrial components have worked fine. Out of all the pick-ups I have owned(all bought new) this is by far the most enjoyable of them all. I have used Mobile 1 since the 15,000 mile mark, dropped in a K & N air filter, added Redline oil to my 3.92 rear axle, and had Sirius Satellite Radio installed in place of my factory CD/cassette unit. These are the only modifications I have made.
(amend1)..Did you just remove the pan and filters or did you do actually flush the lines and torque converter before going to synthetic. I'm torn between the Amsoil and Redline ATF. Amsoil has only one ATF to cover many applications where Redline has one specific ATF for the Chrystler type 3 7176. Therefore I'm leaning towards Redline if I can find it. John
This weekend I changed to oil on my 2002 4.7 QC. After the job was done I started the truck up to check for leaks. While underneath the truck I noticed a very faint rattling type noise from the bottom side of the engine. It rattles about 2 times per second at idle and can barely be heard over the exhaust noise. It cannot be heard from the topside of the engine. The noise goes away after the engine warms up. It doesn't sound like most bottom end noises and I was wondering if it could be the timing chain? Anyone else ever hear anything like this on their 4.7s?
rbp944 - Russ in a forum such as this you tend to hear from the people who have had problems much more than those who are completely satisfied. I'm not sure what the ratio is but I woul suspect that 10 -20 percent of Dakota owners have other than minor problems and these are the ones you are hearing from. I have a 2K SLT 4wd CC with a 4.7 5 speed with 33K miles. The only problem I have had thus far is 2 headlights with condensation in them. Relax and enjoy your truck.
Not to beat this topic to death, but I will anyway. I Picked up the 2 filters for the 45RFE Tranny today and I'm torn on fluids here. Just doing a simple pan drop with filters only empties only about 5 quarts out of a 14 quart system. I dont really want to add expensive Redline synthetic since it will be diluted heavily with the old fluid. Is there an easy way, without buying a flushing tool, to clear the entire system of the old fluid. Or am I better off just adding the Mopar ATF +3 or ATF +4 and being done with it. Thanks for any info or advise on this. John
2000 Dodge Dakota, air condition compressor kicks off for no reason. Fan continues to operate on all speeds. Dealer has no idea what is wrong. After 15-30 seconds compressor comes back on and conditioner works. This is intermittent. Any ideas.
I know this has been a discussed topic, but I've heard differences in opinion. I think it was Henne who used Amsoil, and Bpeebles who used Redline? I want to replace the oil in my rear/front diffs, and the manual tranny (NV3500). Here is what I want to know:
Which brand? Which weight for each application? Capacity of each component.
Is it a good idea to change the transfer case as well?
Any things to watch out for? I'll be doing the swaps myself. I've done a rear and a tranny before, never a front diff.
unless its low on refrigerant, this is normal. The fan will run whenever the AC is engaged via the HVAC controls. Its normal for it to cycle, depending on the cooling load (ie, heat, humidity, fan speed). Cycling AC compressors have been around for a while now. DOes yours cool when the compressor is engaged? DOes it cycle rapidly, like stay engaged for a few seconds then kick off?
Thanks for the help. The air conditioner does throw cold air and I can hear the clicks when the cycles start and end. It is a rapid cycle. The problem is that though the fan is running nothing is coming out in the way of cool air. This is different from the cycling.
I do appreciate all the trouble and information mopar67. I checked with the dealership and they did empty the refrigerant and replace it. Don't think this is the problem. Also the last time it did this the truck was running for about 1 hour. At this time it shut down came back on and then about 15 minutes later did the same thing. Everything works except no cool air for that short period of time on any of the different settings. Hope it is not indicative of another problem. Any other ideas??
My wife and I also notice AC smells bad. 2001 Dakota Quad/auto,etc. 15K miles, love the truck. Only the minor complaints others are having. I don't have any oil leaks, has anyone come up with an answer to smelly AC? I'm going to run the heater to see if it's just condensation/mildew build up?
I've been using AmsOil in my 2001 Quad, 4.7. Now want to do the trans and lim-slip rear with AmsOil. I've done this on my Toyota Sienna. Any hints on Quad trans. drain. No way to get all the old out. Replace or clean filter/pan gasket? MM
(ford_bii) Which brand? You need to make a decision. Whatever you choose will be fine. I choose Redline products based on my own research. Their MTL seems superiouer to all others.
Which weight for each application? I used what Redline recommended for my gearboxes NV3500= MTL NV231= D4ATF 9.25"= 75W90 (LSD additive already included) C205F= 75W90
Capacity of each component. NV3500=4.8Pints NV231=2.5Pints 9.25"= 4.5Pints C205F= 3.5Pints
it a good idea to change the transfer case as well? Yes, the xfer case is constantly radiated by the 3rd cat and exhaust piping. (It gets HOT)
Any things to watch out for? Do you realize that the xfer-case covers need to be REMOVED to drain them properly? (their are no drain plugs)There is no gasket either, make sure you have the proper silicone gasketmaker. The front may be the most difficult part of the job. There is very little clearance between frame and filler hole.
The only other thing which comes to mind is the temp blend door infront of the heater core. THe heater core has hot coolant running thru it whenever the engine is running. You control the "warm" or "cool" setting by rotating the temp knob on the HVAC panel. This in turn operates the blend door, moving it totallyclosed for "cool" operation and opening it up (thus allowing air to pass over the heater core) during "hot" operation.
A good shop will run a performance test of the AC monitoring high and low side pressure as well as operation of each gauge during compressor operation. THey should bypass the evap pressure sensor to force the compressor to run constantly then take readings from the gauges. THen plug the sensor back in again and monitor the AC performance. One thing I disagreed with for years is the stance that AC operation should be tested with windows rolled up, fan on high, and the MAX or RECIRC setting selected. YOu can turn a marginal AC system into a good system doing this. Ask yourself when the tech says, Hey, lookie how cold it is, the following question "DO you drive your rig this way in the summer?" (windows up yes, that is obvious)but how many of us use the MAX setting (basically recirculation of a percentage or all of the inside air) and the fan on high?
My stance is that excepting extreme heat and high humidity, an AC system should keep a vehicle reasonalbly cool on low fan setting and the recirc option OFF! ANd yes, I expect my vehicles to perform this way with engine idling too!
Other factors to consider.....your condensor.is it dirty? Is the electric fan spinning at proper RPM? How about the fan clutch?
Hey, so if you read my last few posts, you see I took the truck in to the dealer for a bad AC smell that is intermittant. They checked the coolant and found no leaks. They claimed that the smell was from a slow tranny fluid leak (not the oil leaks I had) that was burning up and getting up into the vents. So, since I've had the truck back, the smell is still intermittant, yet not near as severe as before, and hope that there are just some fluids remaining that are burning off and it will clear itself over time. They replaced the output shaft seal that they said was a manufacturing flaw. Having said that, if you think your smell is constant or related more to mildew or condensation, it's probably not the issue I had, as my smell was very severe and required shutting off the A/C as not to be ill. I too love the truck and plan to extend my warranty, cause I'll need it :-) (my truck was bought before the new 7 year plan). It's headed back to the shop next week for my tranny again that the dealer claims they can fix in 2 days. I got the one built on Friday by the closet alcoholic, but I'm gonna keep it, that's how much I like it regardless! The only cool part is I got an Intrepid as a rental last time, and with the wide wheelbase, you can throw that thing into a corner WAY too fast with no fear, as I could with the Grand Prix I rented before that. LOL..... Good luck.
My biggest concern is not the type of fluid, but how can I get all or most of the old fluid out of the 45RFE since most of it is in the cooler, lines and torque converter. The BOB outlines a procedure if you have a flushing tool, which I do not, but there is probably a way for the average truck owner to do it. John
(jhorl) I do not have the auto tranny but I have seen compressed air used to "purge" residual fluid from systems. GENTLE blasts of air so as not to damage seals and such.
I know that the lines and cooler can be purged with compressed air. I am not sure about the torque-converter.
Pull the upper line off the cooler and use a rubber hose to to connect to the open ends and blow the residual fluid out.
jhorl, Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I brought my 2000 QC to a local garage and the entire system was flushed out with their special machine. Amsoil ATF used as replacement and it runs fine. I too did not want to go through the work and expense of draining 5 qts out of a 16 or 17 qt system only to replace it with synthetic. I hope this helps and that you find a place with the machine. Bill
Looks like I'll be purchasing the powerslot rotors off truckperformance.com ($98.02 each plus shipping) without the group buy. But when I went to pick up the Raybestos QS ceramic pads locally the parts guy told me they were only reccomended for heavy duty applications and towing as they take a while to heat up and aren't very good for city driving? Does this sound right? I have only heard good things about this package on this board and plan on blowing this guy off, but wanted to get a little reassurance from the experts here. Also, if anyone knows of a better deal on the rotors, let me know. thanks
Well, I finally picked up the long awaited fluid for my 45RFE change and after I got home I noticed the bottle says C+ ATF and on the back it says for ATF+ and ATF+2 7176 applications. I need the ATF+3 7176 and the Redline website shows that the C+ ATF is for the ATF+3....If so why does it not show that on the bottle...Old bottle perhaps. I would think that the ATF+3 has different properties than ATF+2...or they wouldnt have changed it. Unless anybody here can clear this up I'll have to call REDLINE on Monday morning and wait a week to do the job. I also picked up 2 qts of the same fluid for the Transfer Case. The BOB says either Dexron III or ATF +3 7176. I chose the C+ ATF to keep everything the same. Thanks for any advise on this. John
(mrjake) The "parts guy" may have been confused about the application for the QS (QuietStop) pads. He is absoluetly correct that some friction compounds need to be hot before they are effective. The COMPETION/RACING brake pads fall into that category.
The QS pads are NOT in that category. He may have been thinking of the Raybestos "BruteStop" line of products. Check out the Raybestos website and see for yourself.
Do not forget that DC changed their factory-fill of the 45RFE tranny between 2000 and 2001 model years. (they went to a full-synthetic) I beleive that the "+2" is the non-synthetic and the "+3" is the full-synthetic. If my understanding is correct, then obviously the RedLine meets the "+3" specs as well as the "+2".
An older bottle (as you surmize) would only call out the "+2" spec since the "+3" designation is relatively new.
(henne)Thanks for refreshing my memory (As I said, I do not have the automatic tranny)
I am sure you are correct that It is the +4 that is the full-synthetic starting in the 2001 model year.
Again, call REDLINE for specific recommendation of their product for your application. I sent them an eMail and got a very thorough response for my tranny, xfer case, and axles.
Well, I finally finished this long put off project. Redline claims that their C+ ATF is compatable with ATF+, +2, +3 and +4. I figured that it was but I wanted to make sure before I risked screwing up the tranny. I also put the C+ ATF in the transfer case. To finish things off I did the front axle with 75w90, also from redline. After I started the front diff, I had wished I didn't. It is very tight quarters up there and you have to rotate, twist and coax the cover back on. This means I had to run the silicone bead on the axle itself instead of the cover. So far no leaks. The transfer case was the easiest of all. The entire job took just under 5 hours. Thanks to everybody that offered advise on this project. John
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last oil change. 2) Drink a cup of coffee. 3) 15 minutes later write a check and leave with a properly maintained vehicle.
Money spent: Oil Change $20.00 Coffee $1.00 Total $21.00
Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for $50.00. 2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20.00, drive home. 3) Open a beer and drink it. 4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 7) Place drain pan under engine. 8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench. 9) Give up and use crescent wrench. 10) Unscrew drain plug. 11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss. 12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil. 13) Have another beer while watching oil drain. 14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench. 15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off. 16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer. 17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener. 18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back yard instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle. 19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18. 20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday. 21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer. 22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface. 23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 24) Remember drain plug from step 11. 25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with drain plug. 27) Drink beer. 28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily dirt into hole. Steal sand from kids sand box to cleverly cover oily patch of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawn mower gas. 29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill. 30) Drink beer. 31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame. 32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31. 33) Begin cussing fit. 34) Throw stupid crescent wrench. 35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992) in the left boob. 36) Beer. 37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 38) Beer. 39) Beer. 40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil. 41) Beer. 42) Lower car from jack stands. 43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil. 44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during steps 23 - 43. 45) Beer. 46) Test drive car. 47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 48) Car gets impounded. 49) Call loving wife, make bail. 50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.
Money spent: Parts $50.00 DUI $2500.00 Impound fee $75.00 Bail $1500.00 Beer $40.00 Total-- $4165.00
2001 QC 15K miles. MIL light came on, but I found I had the gas cap off several days. Did this cause the MIL to come on? Will it go off or do I need to go to my dealer. Thanks. MM
MM, it is quite possible that the cap being off would make the light come on, as a faulty, loose or poor fitting fuel cap is most often the culprit. I am not certain if it will go off by itself, or has to be recycled. Perhaps someone else can help you with that. The only time that this has happened to us, was when my wife's 1993 Four Runner had the light come on while we were driving. After I stopped to take on fuel, I replaced the cap after fueling and the light went out never to bother us again.
Hi, gang. New guy here with a new 2002 4.7 quad. Picked it up on Aug 30, noticed two things on the 75 mile drive home: Oil Pressure reading right on the "high" index mark, and a full quart too much oil in it. Changed oil to be sure of correct amount, pressure still high. Dealer checked it "within limits" at idle and at 3000 rpm, but a gauge reading "high" drives me crazy...anybody had similar experience? Thanks..by the way, it already has 2800 miles due to my move to Vegas this week, and I loved the drive! No complaints except for the #@&* oil pressure...
Comments
Does anyone have any further suggestions to counteract the altitude?!?! I'm looking to find the power/response that I had when I bought the truck in San Antonio. I'm still feeding her 87 octane as per the owner's manual.
How are the NGKs working out? I plan to use Bosch Platinums when the time comes. I used them in my first Dakota ('93 Sport, 3.9 V-6) and they were great.
This is consistent with what most folks report. The factory air-intake plenum has some tuning ports that seem to improve low-end grunt but hinder above 3000 RPM HP.
John
2 oil leaks - Rear Main Seal and Oil Pan gaskets replaced.
Tranny Fluid leaks - Output Shaft seal replaced
Left Hub bearing loose - replaced faulty bearings
Dealer said all these problems were original factory manufacturing flaws. Mabey its just me, but the tranny seems to shift smoother now that they pulled it out and put it back in.
This board has been very helpful in the past and I am hoping somebody with a service manual can help once again.
I need to have my carpet replaced (thieves broke into my truck and stole my Sirius Satellite Radio System ripping the carpet in the process)and wanted to make sure the installers torque the Seat nuts/bolts to the right specs. I know this can be an important safety issue due to the recall I received concerning this torque rating.
Any info concerning the proper torque would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
cowtownkid
Bench seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs.
Aft bolts 30 ft.lbs.
Bucket seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs.
Aft inboard 30 ft.lbs.
Aft outboard 20 ft.lbs.
There isn't any torque information for the rear seat. The Manual just says "tighten fasteners". Hope this helps.
Dick
8-) Dick
To be honest I have always owned Fords. Three actually a Ranger & 2 each F150s. I know Fords inside out. But like I said that Quad-Cab looked so dawgone good. I could not resist its allure right price and perfect for growing family and well. Now its in my driveway.
OK enough background. Here is my dilemma. I did not do all my homework reference reliability/integrity/quality issues. However; cost I researched and got a great deal. Last night when I got home I began to scrutinize this and other forms on-line, anyway; to say I was distressed is putting it mildly! I saw numerous posts that were really full of terrible stuff.
For example; major auto transmission problems/catastrophic failures, seals in drive train leaking into A/C creating stench in cab when A/C is used, tendency for truck to drift to the right even when proper alignment has been conducted (my truck is doing this and the dealer has agreed to fix it) Serious electrical problems/malfunctions with door locks etc. There were many others but these were major themes I discovered as I scanned the posts.
Tell me this truck model/brand is not a big sexy Lemon!
Needing the truth and your help! Thanks
Russ
The carpet installer is coming to my house next Saturday to install, Once the seats are set in, I will take over and tighten them myself.
Thanks again Guys,
cowtownkid
Thanks
Mailman
Good luck with your purchase!
cowtownkid
John
Ron35
John
Which brand? Which weight for each application? Capacity of each component.
Is it a good idea to change the transfer case as well?
Any things to watch out for? I'll be doing the swaps myself. I've done a rear and a tranny before, never a front diff.
I have the limited slip rear end, as well.
Thanks guys.
Cycling AC compressors have been around for a while now.
DOes yours cool when the compressor is engaged? DOes it cycle rapidly, like stay engaged for a few seconds then kick off?
2001 Dakota Quad/auto,etc. 15K miles, love
the truck. Only the minor complaints others
are having.
I don't have any oil leaks, has anyone come up
with an answer to smelly AC?
I'm going to run the heater to see if it's just
condensation/mildew build up?
MM
Now want to do the trans and lim-slip rear
with AmsOil.
I've done this on my Toyota Sienna.
Any hints on Quad trans. drain. No way to get all
the old out. Replace or clean filter/pan gasket?
MM
Which brand?
You need to make a decision. Whatever you choose will be fine. I choose Redline products based on my own research. Their MTL seems superiouer to all others.
Which weight for each application?
I used what Redline recommended for my gearboxes
NV3500= MTL
NV231= D4ATF
9.25"= 75W90 (LSD additive already included)
C205F= 75W90
Capacity of each component.
NV3500=4.8Pints
NV231=2.5Pints
9.25"= 4.5Pints
C205F= 3.5Pints
it a good idea to change the transfer case as well? Yes, the xfer case is constantly radiated by the 3rd cat and exhaust piping. (It gets HOT)
Any things to watch out for? Do you realize that the xfer-case covers need to be REMOVED to drain them properly? (their are no drain plugs)There is no gasket either, make sure you have the proper silicone gasketmaker. The front may be the most difficult part of the job. There is very little clearance between frame and filler hole.
THe heater core has hot coolant running thru it whenever the engine is running.
You control the "warm" or "cool" setting by rotating the temp knob on the HVAC panel. This in turn operates the blend door, moving it totallyclosed for "cool" operation and opening it up (thus allowing air to pass over the heater core) during "hot" operation.
A good shop will run a performance test of the AC monitoring high and low side pressure as well as operation of each gauge during compressor operation. THey should bypass the evap pressure sensor to force the compressor to run constantly then take readings from the gauges. THen plug the sensor back in again and monitor the AC performance.
One thing I disagreed with for years is the stance that AC operation should be tested with windows rolled up, fan on high, and the MAX or RECIRC setting selected. YOu can turn a marginal AC system into a good system doing this. Ask yourself when the tech says, Hey, lookie how cold it is, the following question "DO you drive your rig this way in the summer?" (windows up yes, that is obvious)but how many of us use the MAX setting (basically recirculation of a percentage or all of the inside air) and the fan on high?
My stance is that excepting extreme heat and high humidity, an AC system should keep a vehicle reasonalbly cool on low fan setting and the recirc option OFF! ANd yes, I expect my vehicles to perform this way with engine idling too!
Other factors to consider.....your condensor.is it dirty? Is the electric fan spinning at proper RPM? How about the fan clutch?
They replaced the output shaft seal that they said was a manufacturing flaw. Having said that, if you think your smell is constant or related more to mildew or condensation, it's probably not the issue I had, as my smell was very severe and required shutting off the A/C as not to be ill. I too love the truck and plan to extend my warranty, cause I'll need it :-) (my truck was bought before the new 7 year plan). It's headed back to the shop next week for my tranny again that the dealer claims they can fix in 2 days. I got the one built on Friday by the closet alcoholic, but I'm gonna keep it, that's how much I like it regardless! The only cool part is I got an Intrepid as a rental last time, and with the wide wheelbase, you can throw that thing into a corner WAY too fast with no fear, as I could with the Grand Prix I rented before that. LOL..... Good luck.
John
I know that the lines and cooler can be purged with compressed air. I am not sure about the torque-converter.
Pull the upper line off the cooler and use a rubber hose to to connect to the open ends and blow the residual fluid out.
Bill
John
The QS pads are NOT in that category. He may have been thinking of the Raybestos "BruteStop" line of products. Check out the Raybestos website and see for yourself.
Do not forget that DC changed their factory-fill of the 45RFE tranny between 2000 and 2001 model years. (they went to a full-synthetic) I beleive that the "+2" is the non-synthetic and the "+3" is the full-synthetic. If my understanding is correct, then obviously the RedLine meets the "+3" specs as well as the "+2".
An older bottle (as you surmize) would only call out the "+2" spec since the "+3" designation is relatively new.
Let us know what RedLine says about this.
I am sure you are correct that It is the +4 that is the full-synthetic starting in the 2001 model year.
Again, call REDLINE for specific recommendation of their product for your application. I sent them an eMail and got a very thorough response for my tranny, xfer case, and axles.
Thanks to everybody that offered advise on this project.
John
Why women are more successful than men......
Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last
oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later write a check and leave with a properly maintained
vehicle.
Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00
Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil,
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for
$50.00.
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20.00, drive
home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process.
Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms.
Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter
and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil
everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash
can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil
change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan
full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back
yard instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to
gasket surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along
with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily dirt
into hole. Steal sand from kids sand box to cleverly cover oily patch of
ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawn mower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty
litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag
used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain
plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992)
in the left boob.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood
flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during
steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail.
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.
Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total-- $4165.00
-- But you know the job was done right
Sound familiar?
Bookitty
I had the gas cap off several days. Did this cause
the MIL to come on? Will it go off or do I need
to go to my dealer.
Thanks.
MM
Bookitty