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Comments
Does anyone have any further suggestions to counteract the altitude?!?! I'm looking to find the power/response that I had when I bought the truck in San Antonio. I'm still feeding her 87 octane as per the owner's manual.
How are the NGKs working out? I plan to use Bosch Platinums when the time comes. I used them in my first Dakota ('93 Sport, 3.9 V-6) and they were great.
This is consistent with what most folks report. The factory air-intake plenum has some tuning ports that seem to improve low-end grunt but hinder above 3000 RPM HP.
John
2 oil leaks - Rear Main Seal and Oil Pan gaskets replaced.
Tranny Fluid leaks - Output Shaft seal replaced
Left Hub bearing loose - replaced faulty bearings
Dealer said all these problems were original factory manufacturing flaws. Mabey its just me, but the tranny seems to shift smoother now that they pulled it out and put it back in.
This board has been very helpful in the past and I am hoping somebody with a service manual can help once again.
I need to have my carpet replaced (thieves broke into my truck and stole my Sirius Satellite Radio System ripping the carpet in the process)and wanted to make sure the installers torque the Seat nuts/bolts to the right specs. I know this can be an important safety issue due to the recall I received concerning this torque rating.
Any info concerning the proper torque would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
cowtownkid
Bench seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs.
Aft bolts 30 ft.lbs.
Bucket seat: Forward bolts 20 ft.lbs.
Aft inboard 30 ft.lbs.
Aft outboard 20 ft.lbs.
There isn't any torque information for the rear seat. The Manual just says "tighten fasteners". Hope this helps.
Dick
8-) Dick
To be honest I have always owned Fords. Three actually a Ranger & 2 each F150s. I know Fords inside out. But like I said that Quad-Cab looked so dawgone good. I could not resist its allure right price and perfect for growing family and well. Now its in my driveway.
OK enough background. Here is my dilemma. I did not do all my homework reference reliability/integrity/quality issues. However; cost I researched and got a great deal. Last night when I got home I began to scrutinize this and other forms on-line, anyway; to say I was distressed is putting it mildly! I saw numerous posts that were really full of terrible stuff.
For example; major auto transmission problems/catastrophic failures, seals in drive train leaking into A/C creating stench in cab when A/C is used, tendency for truck to drift to the right even when proper alignment has been conducted (my truck is doing this and the dealer has agreed to fix it) Serious electrical problems/malfunctions with door locks etc. There were many others but these were major themes I discovered as I scanned the posts.
Tell me this truck model/brand is not a big sexy Lemon!
Needing the truth and your help! Thanks
Russ
The carpet installer is coming to my house next Saturday to install, Once the seats are set in, I will take over and tighten them myself.
Thanks again Guys,
cowtownkid
Thanks
Mailman
Good luck with your purchase!
cowtownkid
John
Ron35
John
Which brand? Which weight for each application? Capacity of each component.
Is it a good idea to change the transfer case as well?
Any things to watch out for? I'll be doing the swaps myself. I've done a rear and a tranny before, never a front diff.
I have the limited slip rear end, as well.
Thanks guys.
Cycling AC compressors have been around for a while now.
DOes yours cool when the compressor is engaged? DOes it cycle rapidly, like stay engaged for a few seconds then kick off?
2001 Dakota Quad/auto,etc. 15K miles, love
the truck. Only the minor complaints others
are having.
I don't have any oil leaks, has anyone come up
with an answer to smelly AC?
I'm going to run the heater to see if it's just
condensation/mildew build up?
MM
Now want to do the trans and lim-slip rear
with AmsOil.
I've done this on my Toyota Sienna.
Any hints on Quad trans. drain. No way to get all
the old out. Replace or clean filter/pan gasket?
MM
Which brand?
You need to make a decision. Whatever you choose will be fine. I choose Redline products based on my own research. Their MTL seems superiouer to all others.
Which weight for each application?
I used what Redline recommended for my gearboxes
NV3500= MTL
NV231= D4ATF
9.25"= 75W90 (LSD additive already included)
C205F= 75W90
Capacity of each component.
NV3500=4.8Pints
NV231=2.5Pints
9.25"= 4.5Pints
C205F= 3.5Pints
it a good idea to change the transfer case as well? Yes, the xfer case is constantly radiated by the 3rd cat and exhaust piping. (It gets HOT)
Any things to watch out for? Do you realize that the xfer-case covers need to be REMOVED to drain them properly? (their are no drain plugs)There is no gasket either, make sure you have the proper silicone gasketmaker. The front may be the most difficult part of the job. There is very little clearance between frame and filler hole.
THe heater core has hot coolant running thru it whenever the engine is running.
You control the "warm" or "cool" setting by rotating the temp knob on the HVAC panel. This in turn operates the blend door, moving it totallyclosed for "cool" operation and opening it up (thus allowing air to pass over the heater core) during "hot" operation.
A good shop will run a performance test of the AC monitoring high and low side pressure as well as operation of each gauge during compressor operation. THey should bypass the evap pressure sensor to force the compressor to run constantly then take readings from the gauges. THen plug the sensor back in again and monitor the AC performance.
One thing I disagreed with for years is the stance that AC operation should be tested with windows rolled up, fan on high, and the MAX or RECIRC setting selected. YOu can turn a marginal AC system into a good system doing this. Ask yourself when the tech says, Hey, lookie how cold it is, the following question "DO you drive your rig this way in the summer?" (windows up yes, that is obvious)but how many of us use the MAX setting (basically recirculation of a percentage or all of the inside air) and the fan on high?
My stance is that excepting extreme heat and high humidity, an AC system should keep a vehicle reasonalbly cool on low fan setting and the recirc option OFF! ANd yes, I expect my vehicles to perform this way with engine idling too!
Other factors to consider.....your condensor.is it dirty? Is the electric fan spinning at proper RPM? How about the fan clutch?
They replaced the output shaft seal that they said was a manufacturing flaw. Having said that, if you think your smell is constant or related more to mildew or condensation, it's probably not the issue I had, as my smell was very severe and required shutting off the A/C as not to be ill. I too love the truck and plan to extend my warranty, cause I'll need it :-) (my truck was bought before the new 7 year plan). It's headed back to the shop next week for my tranny again that the dealer claims they can fix in 2 days. I got the one built on Friday by the closet alcoholic, but I'm gonna keep it, that's how much I like it regardless! The only cool part is I got an Intrepid as a rental last time, and with the wide wheelbase, you can throw that thing into a corner WAY too fast with no fear, as I could with the Grand Prix I rented before that. LOL..... Good luck.
John
I know that the lines and cooler can be purged with compressed air. I am not sure about the torque-converter.
Pull the upper line off the cooler and use a rubber hose to to connect to the open ends and blow the residual fluid out.
Bill
John
The QS pads are NOT in that category. He may have been thinking of the Raybestos "BruteStop" line of products. Check out the Raybestos website and see for yourself.
Do not forget that DC changed their factory-fill of the 45RFE tranny between 2000 and 2001 model years. (they went to a full-synthetic) I beleive that the "+2" is the non-synthetic and the "+3" is the full-synthetic. If my understanding is correct, then obviously the RedLine meets the "+3" specs as well as the "+2".
An older bottle (as you surmize) would only call out the "+2" spec since the "+3" designation is relatively new.
Let us know what RedLine says about this.
I am sure you are correct that It is the +4 that is the full-synthetic starting in the 2001 model year.
Again, call REDLINE for specific recommendation of their product for your application. I sent them an eMail and got a very thorough response for my tranny, xfer case, and axles.
Thanks to everybody that offered advise on this project.
John
Why women are more successful than men......
Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last
oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later write a check and leave with a properly maintained
vehicle.
Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00
Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil,
filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for
$50.00.
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20.00, drive
home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process.
Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms.
Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter
and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil
everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash
can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil
change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan
full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back
yard instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to
gasket surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along
with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily dirt
into hole. Steal sand from kids sand box to cleverly cover oily patch of
ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawn mower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty
litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag
used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain
plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992)
in the left boob.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood
flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during
steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail.
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.
Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total-- $4165.00
-- But you know the job was done right
Sound familiar?
Bookitty
I had the gas cap off several days. Did this cause
the MIL to come on? Will it go off or do I need
to go to my dealer.
Thanks.
MM
Bookitty