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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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11a. Watch hot oil miss oil drain hole and shoot directly into skid plate. Watch oil 'shower' down out of skid plate through the thoughtful drain holes put there by the moron engineers at Chrysler.
dalav8r: I believe the oil gauge is correct, mine always reads at the top of the normal range. What'll really get you is when you're sitting at a stop light and it drops down below half...then go back up. I think my engine oil always reads slightly high as well. I change it myself. 6 quarts, and I let it drain well. I believe it is a common complaint.
I'm sharing this with other hosts. :-)
Your right on the button, which is exactly why I don't change my own oil anymore.
Thanks for the laugh,
Greg
You want high oil pressure. It is the oil-pressure that keeps the oil pumped into all of the bearings and special hollow camshafts. (it is low oil pressure that is a serious problem) As long as you run the recommended 5W30 you will be just fine.
As for appearing to be overfilled. This is also 'normal' for the 4.7L. I have taken to checking my oil level immediatly after driving while all of the oil-plenums and both camshafts are still full of oil. It will be RIGHT ON the fill mark when checked at that time.
This engine holds 6 quarts and is a 'slow drainer' (hollow camshafts drain slowly)
Make sure that anyone that changes your oil understands these 'features' and provides plenty of time for it to drain. Otherwise, you will end up with over 6-quarts in your engine. (drain5 and add 6 = too much oil in engine)
Don't worry about it.....
every day, it should go out this weekend?
mm
John
My 4.7L semi-hemi V8 appeared 'over filled' on the dipstick from the factory... thus I assume this is how it is supposed to look on the dipstick under normal conditions.
of trips.
MM
My truck is running well finally, tranny issues seem to have been put to rest.
I was thinking of giving the truck a suspension lift. Mabey just a few inches. Not for looks like most, but because I'm an avid hiker and tend to run up remote forest roads that I need more clearance for.
How would that affect my warranty (2001) and any recommendations on lift kits or installers?
Thanks all!
Brakes they work, but am engaging the antilock to much! what could be the answer to getting the pedal pressure (my foot) down? other than stopping earlier?
2001 qc 4x4 4.7 auto, limited-slip AWD 15,600 miles
2. Whats a good Brand of; Rotors an pads, to replace with as I still have the oem stuff for brakes on my qc?
3. is this the light & bulb http://www.pilotautomotive.com/pilot2be.htm
that you #4252 ahasher replaced the fog lights with? How much of a Difference are they compared to the oem lights?
Thanks
James, in Houston Texas
but if it's under a load: 1) rapid acceleration onto the freeway, or 2) the transmission downshifts going up a grade with the RPM's above 2500.
I use Union 76 gas, 87 octane. I've had it to the dealer 3 times. The first time they said nothing was wrong and sent me off. The second time I insisted that the technician ride along; he confirmed it pinged, contacted Dodge and found a bulletin and did a computer flash. The pinging stopped for about 3 months, but now it's back. Today, I brought it in for the 3rd time; they said everything was within ranges so try changing to Cheveron gas or use a higher octane.
Has anyone else experienced the above symptoms?
If so, how did you resolve it?
It is annoying but im just glad it runs LOL....
Good luck,
Robert
I hope this is all as I am at 28+k miles.
Robert
It sounds as though the Techron/Chevron combo was effective, I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
Bill
Bookitty
Earl
I experience the very sharp/sudden surge of approx 1800rpm in 2 secs or less when climbing a grade at 80Kpm/50mph @1500rpm. It jumps to 3300rpm very very suddenly. At this point I set the Cruise control to OFF & the O/D to OFF. I think the kick-down from cruise should be more gradual and will check with the dealer.
I realize that the 3.9L may not be a good base to start from for enhancing performance but, thought the experts may have some low cost bolt-ons tricks. Someone locally in town mentioned switching to a K&N replacement filter or K&N FIPK kit, Gibson cat-back exhaust system, Granatelli (sp?) MAF sensor, and perhaps a larger throttle body. Are any of these worth the effort/cost? My budget for mods tops out at $1,000. Alternatively, I'm considering upgrading to the 4.7L and hoping for Dodge to offer the rumoured option of a HO 4.7L in the Dakota/Durangos soon. For towing, at least the installed 3.92 LSD axle helps out a little bit.
Thanks again, Bill.
Thanks,
Robert
Ron35
Get it, it is so much easier.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
Robert
The Fumoto Valve mentioned above is another option... (but is not available from Wallmart.)
Options are good... you get to choose 8-)
I got my first door ding yesterday... actually it's not the door, but on the bed just before the gas door. It happened at work too and the person didn't even have the decency to tell me. That's ok because we have security camera's in the parking lot.... I guess I'm getting cared away, but it's the first ding.
1) What is a Bilstein engine flush and is it worth it?
2) What does throttle body decarbonization do and is it worth it?
3) To solve the well discussed steering column knocking problem, the dealer wants to replace a coupling (p/n 55357207AA) and shaft (p/n 55351208AB). Any comments or advice?
This is '01 QC 4.7 auto w/16K miles.
Thanks for your help.
Was also wondering how many of you manual owners have replaced your transmission fluid with synthetic? Please provide as much info. on the subject as possible to this non-gearhead?
I am not planning on changing the RedLine fluids for a LONG time.. perhaps after 90K miles. (40K now)
John
THe changes in engine performance were obvious from the get go.
It starts easier now; I was getting just a hint of valve train noise now that is gone. The temp gauge runs a tad lower. At idle, the engine is much quieter. On road performance is better too, the engine feels more "peppy" (I use that term lightly since this is a hamster after all)
The two variables are the oil and the filter. Previously, I had the stock Zuki oil filter on there. THe oil used prior by the garage was Valvoline all climate 5W30.
Recall, these are almost parallel to the benefits I picked up in the Dakota when I made the switch to MObil 1 oil.
Anyone else experience this trend? Any Ideas?
Thanks for the help, 96g11
Bookitty
Thanks,
SPIKE
They pointed out that I need to stay away from the platinum type plugs, including the Bosch +4's. There was a guy picking his up after burning the crown on his pistons or something like that, cause fron the Bosch +4's.
He said he and another buddy of his had similar problems. The other guy used a different plug than the Bosch but it was a platinum plug.
Anyone have any experience with this?
I guess I am going to change them with the OEM plugs.
Any advice?
Robert
on my Quad cab's 45RFE tranny.
Can't find a torque value for the pan bolts. Can
you help?
By the way I measured the fluid I drained and it was
9 quarts, not the 6 quarts I read about elsewhere.
At about $5/QT for ATF4 and $25 each for filters, this
is an expensive box to service every 30,000 mi.
Bookitty
Dick(^-^)