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Comments
no problems. I did end up putting nine quarts back in. I used a vacuum pump to suck the fluid out of the dipstick tube and ended up dropping a nearly empty pan, this worked like a charm. Putting the pan back in place with a bead of sealant on it and having transmission fluid continuously dripping from above was a trick though. I think you could end up with a leak if any ATF got on the wet sealant.
about these plugs burning my pistons?
I might ask my service dept. what plugs they
recommend and not recommend. Since I plan on keeping my Quad for many years.
mm
Please explain to me how a specific spark plug brand can hole a piston? Do not be afraid to explain the physics behind it...I will understand.
OK, OK... I am being Facetious.
It is more likely that the DRIVING HABITS of the folks that select the +4 plugs are to blame. I know of several folks that drag race Dakotas and the +4 plug is what they are running.
I dont know the details, just that a few engine/piston problems are being blamed on those plugs (platinum)
I am changing mine soon, but with my track record with Dodge, I might even get the put Mopar plugs back in LOL...
Robert
I found some Brembo rotors and Hawk brake pads at the "Tirerack.com". The Brembo rotors are the same rotors that Powerslot starts with to produce their slotted rotors. The rotors were $50 a piece, and the pads were $59. The original pads were worn very little, but for $59, I bought a whole lot of piece of mind. So far I have put 3K miles on the new brakes, and can say without a dought, this truck stops better than it has ever stopped!! The wheels so far have stayed clean as well.
The only problems I had in this easy fix was finding a 7mm allen wrench, a tool to push the calipers back in, and a large wheel puller to remove the rusted/frozen original rotors. I tried for a hour to remove the first rotor without the wheel puller, and had no luck at all. With a wheel puller, 7mm, and the caliper tools, a person should be able to complete the whole job in a hour. I believe the earlier posts about the junk metal these original rotors are made of. I did the first brake job on my 92 Dakota at 45K, and had no problems with rusted/frozen rotors. My 92 Dakota through a rear shoe, and I decided to replace all the shoes and pads.
Norm and Judy Rosenberg (Bookitty)
Has anyone experienced this situation or have any ideas on resolution? I'm a first time Mopar owner and was wondering if this is normal for 3.9L V6s?. With the exception of the intermittent squeaky front-end steering noises, I'm generally content with my ride!
Thanks.
BTW, Happy Thanksgiving and God Bless!
PS Just passed 20,000 miles on my 2wd 02 Quad, 4.7 manual trans. No problems.
I have a problem with my 00,4.7,5 spd...I am told that I need a new fuel pump and injector cleaning.Since Monday the truck has run like it were on half the octane of real gas.I tried a san of dry gas and also injector cleaner solution to no avail...so now i wait till the dealer can locate a fuel pump and do the dirty deed.
6 months ago I had a bad tank of gas that really had a lot of water in it.the dry gas worked then but not now.
BUT...it still is a good thanksgiving
Stephen Richard
plan to add high test gas on sunday and some more cleaner when i put in 12 gallons of gas.
any thoughts guys ?
stephen
Also, are you filling up when the tanker is also filling the below ground tanks?
These are two criteria to consider when you purchase gasoline.
One brand might do well, whereas another will not run well at all in your vehicle. For instance, I never got good mileage from BP in my Dakota but the Vitara runs just fine on it. Go figure.
The main thing I recall during my days as a petroleum transfer engineer at a Marathon station was the number of fuel filters/gas tanks we replaced and flushed out. IT was simply amazing the amount of crud that was in there.
When asked, the owners of these vehicles, to a man, said, "Oh, I'm buying my gas from _________ (insert cut rate, no name station), have been for years, and its just as good as the others but I'm saving a dime a gallon!" uh huh, sure you are...then they blanched when they saw the repair bill for a new injector(s) or a fuel filter.
Reminds me of my days at the Kmart where we had a Thortons gas station out front of our parking lot and I had a regular customer come in about every two weeks and loaded up on drygas, gas dry, gas magic, fuel injector cleaner, you name it, if we carried it, he bought it. One day I casually asked him where he was buying his gas (obviously I was curious as to why he was spending over $30 bucks at a whack on this stuff). He replied, "Shoot, I get ALL my gas over at Thorntons. I ain't paying for that high priced shell or Amoco and Thorntons is same stuff, just cheaper."
Well who was I to argue with a guy who was committed to spending his money with my store. SO I left it at that but I had to chuckle at his attempt at "logic".
have been buying 90% of the time from a national dealer in a highly competitive part of town where prices are usually good for all.did deviate from this in last 2 tanks when i was out of town.
put middle test in today and felt no diference..i have my fingers crossed whenever i have to go to work for fear that the line will shut down..
thanks for the input,
stephen
Ron35
Where can you buy the B+G cleaner ?
stephen
Ron
Bookitty
On a related note.... I have read that there may be oil-changes at gas stations using hydrolic fittings using the very same idea. If all cars have a hydrolic fitting from the factory... then one can change the oil while the gas tank fills.
Neat idea... but I wonder if we will ever see it.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/filter_man_council01.pdf
Robert
Bookitty
I think what the Filter Council is saying is that this flushing system is fine but should not be considered a complete transmission maintenence. The filter should still be replaced at interval and the pan removed and cleaned.
Regards,
Dusty
you know how I've been waiting for a new fuel pump etc...well today when I was a taking off the gas cap I got 10-25 ml of water out of the inside of my cap. Last night had dropped down to 34 degrees from a high of 68 .Should there be that much condensation on the inside of the cap ?Could my "fuel pump " problem really be the cap is screwed up ?
Will buy a new cap in am and see if the engine trouble light goes out.
ps, I checked my wife's accord cap and there was no water.
thanks,
stephen
Drive Safe,
Joe
Ron
would inappropriate plugs make a 4.7l engine accelerate poorly and misfire ? It was the last job the dealer did on my truck before all this rough accelerating started.My mpg's are also down.Do they need to do anything with the brain after a plug change ?
thought I'd ask,
stephen
Stephen, if this problem occured abruptly I would suspect either a defective spark plug, a plug or plugs that are significantly out-of-gap, or during the plug change process the technician unintentionally screwed something up. Since the 4.7 uses coil-on-plug, maybe it's possible that two of the coils got swapped. I've seen crossed ignition wires many times and on some engines you may actually get a somewhat smooth idle or off idle and only realize a misfire (skip) when a load is placed on the engine.
In any event, since you recently had service performed and if the symptoms just suddenly appeared, I would make another visit to the dealer and have them look at it.
Let us know what is found to be the problem.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Issues with price, availability, performance, and general experiences, positive or negative, would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
I changed the 45RFE on my 2000 Quad with Redline C+ ATF. Redline claims it meets all of the requirements for a chrystler tranny. I also used the C+ ATF on the transfer case. The front and rear axles got 75W90 NS. The NS blend already has the friction modifier mixed in it. To be truthfull, I havent noticed any performance changes with the addition of these synthetic fluids. I guess its just a piece of mind.
John
Thank you for the reply and I hope you had a Merry Christmas.
Just curious. What has been you're fluid change interval on the transmission so far? Have you done any towing? And how many miles have you logged on the Redline products?
Best regards,
Dusty
BEWARE: jhorl has the facts backwards. The "NS" designation on the RedLine gear oils is for NON-Limited Slip differentaials. It DOES NOT have the friction modifier in it. Do not use the "NS" oil unless RedLine specifically tells you to use it.
Dont take my word for it....please see their web site for yourself.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products.htm
As for performance differences. I noted MUCH better shifting of the NV3500 tranny, especially in cold weather. Additionally, My MPG went up a bit too. (I have touched 21MPG since the change 8-)
Both of these were my goals with the switch to RedLine lubricants. The 4WD has a large number of moving parts that are bathed in gear oil. One of the properties of synthetic lubricants is the reduced 'churn' that is needed to move all of the bearings, gears and chains thru the oil-bath. (the xfer case even has a built-in oil pump that circulates the lube to all the moving parts)
Are you sure that Wall Mart will install tires that they did not sell and still offer the lifetime free rotation/balance for around $40?
That is a GREAT deal considering tire rotations should be done every 2 oil changes! (8,000 miles)
BTW, My dakota has a REAL spare tire on a REAL aluminum wheel (same as the other 4) and have been including it in the rotations. I wonder what you did with your spare when you installed the Pirelli Scorpions?
>>NV231 Xfer case RedLine D4ATF<<
>>9.25" rear differential with LSD RedLine 75W90<<
>>C205F front differential RedLine 75W90<<
Bpeeples,
Thank you for taking the time to transmit the product information from Redline.
A couple of questions:
Where have you been able to find and purchase Redline products?
How long have you been using their lubricants?
Thanks again and best regards,
Dusty
Unfortunately my 2003 2WD Club Cab with the cast aluminum wheels did not. Wish it did. I like to rotate five tires instead of four. My dealer did say he'd give me a discount on a factory wheel through the parts department. The wheels for mine are $163 a piece, I was told. I think I can get 10% off that.
Regards,
Dusty
I have not used RedLine lubricants in the past but I did a lot of research. My conclusion was that RedLine is as good as any and reasonably priced. (I got mine for $7.25 quart which is LESS than any 'online' price I found)
I do not expect to have to change the xmission, xfer or axle fluids before 100,000 miles. When the cost is amoratizd, it is quite reasonable. (Especially when the cost to actually CHANGE the fluids is figured in.) Now that I have RedLine in the axles, I can use the 'suction' method to do changes in the future.
You appear satisfied with the Redline products and the result. I believe you mentioned earlier about a MPG gain. How much do you estimate it was?
I sent Redline's Techline a request for lubricant and interval change recommendations. Their website only lists a ATF for Chrysler 7176 vehicles. I'm not sure, but I was thought that the 545RFE transmission was spec'd with ATF+4, which I think is a newer version of 7176.
Anyway, appreciate the time you took to respond to my questions.
Bests,
Dusty
As far as the spare tire goes, it is still tucked safely under my bed...unfortunately, I didn't rotate it with the rest of them, therefore, I have a really, really good spare tire at this point.