Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

ferous · March 2003

This question only applies to those with a manual transmission or experience with one.
When I know I will have to stop at an intersection, I will frequently shift my 5spd into neutral, and coast up to the stop. While the truck is coasting, my RPMs are around 1050-1100. As soon as the truck comes to a complete stop, the RPMs drop to 750-800. Why don't they drop to 750-800 as soon as I put it in Neutral?

bookitty · March 2003

Thad, I believe that the on board computer recognizes that the vehicle is in motion and adjusts the RPM proportionately.

Bookitty

ferous · March 2003

I have the same conclusion, but WHY? I can't come up with a logical reason for it. If this was engineered to do it, then there should be a reason for it. Engineers are different than salespeople, they need a reason for everything they do!

bookitty · March 2003

Thad, it is probably done so that the RPM does not go to 600 or 700 revs while you are rolling along at 40 MPH or more and either throw it into gear, or pop the clutch.That could generate a great lurch and cause undue wear and tear on the drive train.

Bookitty

bpeebles · March 2003

I have discussed this many times over the past several years. I was hoping that bookitty's answer would be sufficient.

Keep in mind that the ECU (EngineControlUnit) was originally programmed for an automatic tranny.... but when coupled to a manual tranny, the Idle will settle to about 800-900 RPM if one coasts with the clutch pushed long enough. Any roadspeed above 0.0MPH will engage this idle sequence.

It is generally believed that this was programmed this way mainly to reduce engine-braking when the throttle is released.

It also makes shifting the manual tranny easier for some folks that are not accustomed to double-clutching under some conditions.

Personally , I think it is a silly way to control the idle-speed. I much prefer an idle that is rock-steady at any roadspeed.... but with a V8, releasing the clutch would slide the rear wheels due to engine-compression. It is a way to make driving the manual tranny more idiot-proof ;-)

ferous · March 2003

Thanks for your answer. I should have guessed that the design was to make up for some drivers inability to operate a stick. Same idea as the sticker on my snowblower that recommends I don't use it on the roof, or that I shouldn't trim my hedges with my lawn mower.

dustyk · March 2003

I would suspect that this is done for the same reason late '70s and '80s vehicle used a dashpot to return the engine RPM to the curb idle speed very slowly.

Emissions.

If the throttle were to return to the qualified curb idle speed at deceleration, excessive fuel is pulled through the idle circuit causing a rich mixture and realize a corresponding increase in exhaust emissions. This would be especially true for a manual transmission vehicle since there is no way for the computer to know that the transmission is in neutral.

Dusty

amend1 · March 2003

mstan- It sounds like it's your viscous clutch on the cooling fan behind the radiator.
Bill

mstan · March 2003

Bill, Thanks for your input. I thought it was the fan also and had it replaced. (The fan did sqeal when you turned it by hand.) Unfortunately, this squeal still remains. Any other thoughts / suggestions would be aprreciated. Thanks, Mark

stnick · March 2003

Possibly the idler pully, or belt tensioner? That device has a bearing.

livnlrn · March 2003

I think someone mentioned purchaseing a LSD kit awhile back. From Randy's I think. What was the cost of the kit and to put it in?
Thanks,
Eric

bpeebles · March 2003

(livnlrn)
Get with Randys to establish the cost of the various options. http://www.ring-pinion.com/

Call some competent rear-end mechanics to determine the cost to install.

BTW... I still see your rig in the parkinglot at work in the mornings 8-)

mstan · March 2003

Back to squeel, I did have the belts and the pulleys checked - they are not the cause. FYI, the temperature is now above 40 degrees, so the squeel has gone away. Again, it only happens when it's below 40 or so. Again, thanks for your input - let me know if anyone else has any other suggestions.

steve234 · March 2003

I haven't posted for a while, but I am looking at new tires and wanted to get opinions. I am approaching 60k on my 02 (4.7A Q w/T&H, 3.92lsd)The GY tires have held up well, can't complain about tire wear, but they are less than great for handling and wet/snow traction. The 255/65R16 size limits my choices, but I have decided to go with one of four options. Michelin has the LTX M/S and Cross Terrain SUV. These will run $600 and $700 respectively. The GY Fortera HL will run a hair above the Cross Terrains, both are superior tires. For around $500, I can get some Kuhmo Ecsta STX that are very well rated, but has the lowest treadwear rating. I have all the data on these tires from Tirerack, but I thought someone here might have personal experience with some of them.

BTW, with towing occasionally, running average 15.5 mpg, best 24, wife just returned from NM (800 miles)20+ every tank.

scottl3 · March 2003

My Dakota is a 2000 4X4 V-6 Auto Club Cab Sport with about 42,000 miles. Recently I have noticed a popping sound coming from the front end when making sharp turns at low speeds (turning into a parking space). Any ideas on what the noise is and what it would take to fix it? Also, I have been trying to find a Maintenance Manual for this truck for over 6 months. Every auto parts store I talk to says the book I am after does not exist? Thanks

mopar67 · March 2003

and order a genuine FSM for your rig. BEtter than any Chiltons or Haynes out there.
The popping noise on my rig was caused by the brake pads shifting in the caliper as well as the caliper mounting not staying tight against the wheel hub. it was never resolved when I traded the truck in.

sunburn · March 2003

How much friction modifier is recommended for a 2002 3.92 LSD?

bpeebles · March 2003

(sunburn) Just use a QUALITY synthetic axle-lube that allready contains the friction modifier.

I have used REDLINE lubes in all 4 gearcases of my Dak. The MPG improved by about 3 MPG too!

bpeebles · March 2003

(scottl3) This is often a lack of lubrication where the antisway bar passes thru the rubber bushings.

Another possibility is that a upper-balljoint may be getting sloppy.

As for a shop manual... I got the factory shop manual when I bought my 2000 Dak new. It is euphamistically known as "BOB" because it is a Big Orange Book. (Dodge uses a different color for each model year... 2000 is Orange)

I HIGHLY recommend you get a BOB. It has very good explanations of virtually all of the complex systems on the Dakota.

Somtimes there is a BOB for sale on eBay but in any case, a Dodge dealership will be able to order one for you.

sunburn · March 2003

bpeebles - Unfortunately, the Redline 75W-140 that I have does not have the friction modifier in it. Their 80W-140 does, but since the vehicle is still under warranty, I'm sticking to the recommended lubricants.

scottl3 · March 2003

Thanks mopar67 and bpeebles, will check it out and let you know.

scottl3 · March 2003

Other than the new 4.7 V-8 (mine is a V-6) that came out in 2000, what are the differences between a 1998 and 2000 Dakota. I have found a 1998 Dodge Service manual on-line, but have not located a 2000 manual yet. Thanks

ronslakie · March 2003

scottl3 - As a rule many of the Chilton or Haynes Manuals don't come out until 4-5 years after the model year they cover. This is especially true for the 2000, which introduced a new engine the 4.7. I always buy the factory service manual for any vehicle I own, I have the 2K FSM. The FSM will have a level of detail that will never be available from Chilton or Haynes. As an example when I installed my CD changer the I had to remove my dash, the manual showed me where that one hidden screw was and then popping the dash was easy. Likewise when I installed new rear speakers the FSM showed me how to remove the trim panels and then which speaker wires were + and -. This type of info would not be available in the other manuals.
The Dodge Manual is available from Dyment Distributors at 800-216-6856 (couldn't find their website). This is where the dealerships go to get the manual.

Ron

bpeebles · March 2003

(scottl3) The 2000 year introduced a totally new front end for the 4X4. This includes IFS with rack-n-pinion steering.

The 4.7L engine also has a brand new automatic transmission.

Also, 2 additional doors were available on the Dakota starting in 2000.

IFS= Indipendent Front Suspension.

bpeebles · March 2003

(sunburn) Unless you have the Redline with the "NS" designation, your 75W-140 does have the LSD additive allready.

Both of the following websites back up what I am saying.

http://keith.mcbride.org//gearoil.html
http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm

If you have the WRONG RedLine product, either exchange it for the proper stuff or use the REDLINE LSD additive.

QUESTION: why do you feel the need for a "140" lube in your rear diff? This may be wayyy to thick for proper lubrication.

sunburn · March 2003

bpeebles - what I have is the 75W-140NS. Only the 75W-90 and 80W-140 have the friction modifiers in them. I do have a bottle (4 oz) of the Redline LSD additive. I just wanted to know if I needed the whole bottle or more or less. Redline recommends that the LSD additive be 4% of the total fill. This ends up being about 3.5 oz. I was just curious what Dodge recommended.

The reason I'm using this weight is that is what is recommended by Dodge for towing purposes. It's buried in the Owner's Manual under the "Towing" section. Since I tow 3000 lbs for about 15% of my annual mileage I figured I would go with it while the vehicle is under warranty. For the weight that I am towing, the synthetic 75W-90 is probably OK, but I want to be covered if there are ever any problems.

bpeebles · March 2003

(sunburn) According to page 3-63 of the BOB. Both the 8.25" and 9.25" rear axles with LSD require 5 oz of friction modifier.

The 8.25" capacity is 4.7 pts.(incl friction modifier)
The 9.25" capacity is 4.9 pts..(incl friction modifier)

bcarter3 · April 2003

The official Service Manuals for the Dakotas can be ordered online from "techauthority.com"

iowabigguy · April 2003

For those people who don't change their own oil DamlierChrysler has a program called "Essential Care Lube, Oil and Filter packages. There are 2 terms, changing oil/filter 2 times a year or 4 times a year. Then they go for 1 to 7 years. For example if you plan on keeping your Dakota 2 more years and change oil every 3 months then there is plan code EC28K. This plan gives you 8 oil changes over a 2 year period for a Dealer Cost of $80, or $10 per oil change. The other extreme, you buy a new Dakota and plan on keeping it for the full period of the 7/70 warranty then there is plan code EC728K. This plan gives you an oil change every 3 months for 7 years at a Dealer Cost of $170, or $6.07 an oil change. You get a coupon book imprinted with your name and the vehicle VIN. The catch is if you sell or replace the Dakota the plan does not transfer. I just purchased 4 plans of various length to cover our fleet. I always change my own oil and use Mopar filters. Now my Dodge dealer will change my oil/filter and dispose of the old oil for about what I paid for a Mopar filter. Not worth my bother anymore.
The really good part is DamlierChrysler strongly recommends that the dealers to sell the plans at dealer cost. They say pricing the plan at dealer cost represents a "tremendous Consumer Value....
Essential Care promotes increased Service and Parts profits by bringing customers back to their dealership for all their automotive needs."

Eligible Vehicles
Plan can be offered or sold at anytime on all New and Used DamlierChrysler, G.M., Ford or Imported vehicles (excluding Viper, Prowler, Diesels and all other vehicles that require synthetic oil) regardless of age or mileage.

I suppose if you have an old Yugo that still runs it too would be eligible....... Rick

2nddak · April 2003

Hi ya'll, I've been following this boad since I bought my '01 quad 4wd, 4.7, auto, limited slip, 3.55 diff, handling package in Dec of '00. Mostly I lurk but have posted a few times. Lots of great info here, thats what I need now. I've got about 31K miles on it with only seeing the dealer for recalls. I run mobil one in the crank case and have Valvoline Synthetic the rear diff. It's been a good truck to me. Only faults are that it's starting to get the warpped rotor deal and the drivers door seems to leak air at seal with strong cross winds (dealer claims this is normal, yeah sure!). There are a few other quirks that I ignore but some on these boards might whine about. Mileage is around 15 local and 17-18 on a trip if I can keep it under 70. Worse on local in the winter, as low as 12 when I use it to plow my driveway a bit in very cold weather. This is a fun truck to own and drive.

Now for the questions:
1. I'm considering synthetic for the trans change via a flush. What has anyone had good luck with in the auto trans, and has it made any difference in mileage or performance?

2. Ditto on the transfer case for synthetic.

3. Spark Plugs, any opinion on origial replacements vs the others.

4. If anyone has suggestions on the door air leak I'd appreciate your opinions. I'm thinking there must be a way to suck that door in tighter.

5. How many of you folks are in this for the long haul? 80-120K. I keep thinking things are going too well from a maintenace standpoint and am trying to decide how long to keep this truck.

Sorry for the long post but its been sparse here lately so most shouldn't mind the extra text.

Thanks for your answers, they are always great! Kevin

bpeebles · April 2003

(2nddak) Answers;

1+2) Red Line brand synthetic lubes (expect 1 to 3 better MPG)
3) Bosch+4 platinum
4) there are adjustments for 'closing tightness' (just loosen bolts and move the latch)
5) I expect at least 150K miles out of my Dak. Here in Vermont, it is the longevety of the BODY that is the key factor.. Dodges are perhaps the best trucks on the road from that perspective.

dustyk · April 2003

I'll back-up what Bpeebles says, in fact according to an article in Fleet Management journal sometime back, there are just slightly more Dodge trucks still registered for the road at 13 years than GM and Fords at 10 and 12 respectively.

My son's '91 Dakota is still going at 270,000 miles. The 3.9 engine never consumes any oil at the 3500 mile oil change. It's got some lifter noise at initial start-up (especially in the cold weather), but it's been there since he's had it and never gotten any worse. There is some rot at the bottom left edge of the tailgate. The rest of the body is solid, despite a multitude of scrapes and dents taking the paint off.

I hunt with a guy whose '90 GMC had rotted doors, wheel lips and cab floor (the rear body mount literally gave away causing the cab to sink about three inches on the frame) at the end of 7 years. His '97 has an outer body rust hole at the bottom rear of the cab.

Around here Ford F150s do much better, but the Ranger series not so well. S10s turn to complete vapor in about 9 years (my son had two).

RAMs do quite well, especially the '94 body style. Dakotas are actually among the best for staying rust free and there are still a lot of the mid-to-late '80s version around. In fact, there's one in my neighborhood.

Bests,
Dusty

rdg1 · April 2003

Anyone experience a water leak on the driver's side? Dealer having trouble fixing it. Info would be appreciated.

dustyk · April 2003

I finally got a coat of Nu-Finish wax on my Dakota this weekend, and as usual despite careful application, I got some wax on the door handle and tailgate escutheons (the black molded plastic piece surrounding the door handle).

I tried removing the residue with Ditzler Acryli-Clean, but this stuff is stubborn. Anybody have any suggestions? What do some of you folks use?

Bests,
Dusty

dustyk · April 2003

A few days after I aggressively washed the underbody of my Dakota Club Cab, I noticed that both taillight assemblies had moisture in the reverse light cavities.

I removed the lamp assemblies and realized that there is a molded-in opening to atmosphere at the bottom of the lamp assembly. Since it is easier to purge moisture out of something than it is to prevent it from getting in, this design is fairly intelligent in this respect.

The bulb sockets showed no signs of being wet and after close and careful inspection of the socket assemblies, I'm very sure that these provide a good hermetic seal to the lamp housing.

Since I've sprayed water up under the body on numerous occasions through the winter, I must conclude that the last time I did this I actually forced water into the small tube-like moisture purge extension outlets.

I might attach a small rubber hose to this outlet and let it hang downward, prevent water from getting into the lamp assembly.

By the way, removing the taillamp assemblies is a piece of cake on the Dakota. The next time I want to flush the box area of the truck, I think I'll just remove them and spray water into the openings.

Dusty

ferous · April 2003

Well at 59K miles, I have my first "Check Engine" light. I had just filled up with gas the day before, so I thought I might not have put the cap on all the way. Check it when I got home and it moved, so I thought that was the reason for the light. As I left for work this morning the light stayed on the whole way (9 miles). When I parked the truck at work I flipped the key back and forth 3 times and the P-Code of P-1294 came up. This code (thanks to those who posted where to find the codes) states that the truck "Target idle not reached". As I thought back to yesterday, I remember stalling (popped the clutch)the truck right after I started it. Then after I pulled out of the parking lot I noticed the light. I have now driven the truck 3 times and the light hasn't reset yet.

Anyone have any suggestions for me?

Thanks

2000 QC 2wd 4.7 5spd(man) 3.55LSD

bcarter3 · April 2003

Info from the DC Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual regarding P1294-Target Idle not reached. Possible causes:
   Throttle Plates/Linkage Binding
   Vacuum Leak
   Throttle Body
   Throttle Body Dirty

  Hope this info is of some help.

                              Dick

bpeebles · April 2003

(ferous) For a bad code to be automatically reset, your Dak has to satisfy the definition of complete "trips" as defined in the factory shop manual. (A defined "trip" is NOT just a drive to the store)

Additioally, do not forget that some CEL alerts are NOT automaticlly reset by completing the denoted number of trips. These must be reset "manually".

If you have not cleaned your TB lately, now is a good time to do it. (and clean the IAC too!) At 59K mailes, I would expect that you have cleaned these items at least 4 times over that many miles.

dustyk · April 2003

There are a number of electronic control modules on a Dakota that could register a problem code. These include the Central Timer Module (CTM), Programmable Communication Interface (PCI), Controller Rear Wheel Antilock Brake (CAB), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM), Transmission Control Module (TCM), and Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM).

In older Chrysler systems some codes would reset after 40 ignition starts. I'm not sure if any codes are reset that way on current Chrysler products, but some CTM codes might reset this way.

What Bpeebles means by "complete trips" is a complete open and closed loop cycle operation of the engine. This would include the following:

ignition switch energized mode (PCM wake Up signal)
engine start-up mode
engine warm-up mode
idle mode
cruise mode
acceration mode
deceleration mode
ignition switch off

Regards,
Dusty

blue_truck · April 2003

I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with OEM ball joints and tie rod ends? I had mine replaced less than two years ago at the dealership, and they need to be replaced again! Apparently, to replace the upper ball joint, the entire upper A-arm must be replaced. Does anyone know of a way to replace the upper ball joint without having to replace the arm...with, preferrably, a non-Mopar part?

dustyk · April 2003

I have replaced a number of OEM ball joints as separate units from the A-arms on different vehicles over the years. The factory ball joints are riveted on. Some replacement part manufacturers supply just the joint which requires that the old joint be removed by drilling out the rivets. The new joint is re-installed using bolts on many of these replacement versions.

It's very common for vehicle manufacturers to just spare the ball joint with the A-arm only.

As an aside, when rotating my tires a few weeks ago I noticed that the rubber grease retaining seals looked collapsed, as if there was very little lubricant in the joint. I'm tempted to drill and tap them and install a zerk fitting to allow me to lubricate them, for I'm suspicious that the factory didn't get enough grease into the joint. That will most certainly contribute to short ball joint life.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · April 2003

(blue_truck) I have replaced my OEM with brand-name MOOG that has a built-in zerk. As Dustyk points out, the rivits are removed (an air-chisel rules at this job) and the new MOOG part is supplied with 3 bolts and a 45degree zerk fitting.

ferous · April 2003

Thank you to those that posted suggestions for me last week. I read them yesterday and was going to try them, but when I started the truck up to go home from work, the light went off. I'm guessing I have cycled the engine about 15 times since it came on.

jhorl · April 2003

Lately I've noticed that if my 2000 4.7 4x4 Dakota sits for more than one or two nights without being started, during the next start the rpm jumps way up. The truck sat for about 6 days last week and when I started it the RPM's jumped up to about 3000 momentarily and the "searched" its way back down the the normal 6 or 7 hundred. My concern is that on initial start up you definetely dont want this kind of revs until the oil gets flowing. Also at Idle I'm not hearing the nice quiet engine noise under the hood. Kind of sounds squeaky...possibly serpentine belt, alternator or water pump..Havent tried to troubleshoot it yet. I should mention I just hit 44000 miles and these issues are just begining. Ohter than that all is well. Thanks for any input. John

ferous · April 2003

I noticed this a little during the big temp swings during spring and fall. I can't speek for what happenes after 6 days. My truck has never sat that long in the 3 years I've owned it.

bpeebles · April 2003

(jhorl) I agree with ferous, I would bet that the ambient temerture was significantly different between the last time it was started and this time. Do not forget that the ECU 'remembers' the settings for each set of ambient conditions and when it encounters somthing it is not familiar with, it has to re-program itself. This takes a few moments.

Additionally, the 'rememberd' settings get stored in more permimant memory of the ECU as they are encountered repeatedly. It is a pretty complicated algorythim that does all of this stuff.

As for the "squeaking".... I am wondering if the pulleys got some surface-rust on them while sitting.
Did your brakes tend to be "grabby" for the first couple of stops too?

jhorl · April 2003

Actually yes, the brakes are a bit grabby initially when the truck sits. When I get back from this trip I'll look at the pulleys and maybe try to clean them. I'n not sure what the life expectancy on the belt is but I'm sure its more than 3 years/ 45000 miles. Also interested in doing shocks soon, probably the edelbrocks. Was the installation pretty straight forward

bpeebles · April 2003

(jhorl) I found the installation pretty straight-forwared.

I installed the rear shocks by just sliding under the truck and doing it from there. (I have the 4X4 with 31" tires... it sits pretty high)

For the fronts, i had to use jackstands and pull each front wheel.... still pretty easy. The toughest part was compressing the front shocks and putting them in place before they "expanded" into position.

I used a torque-wrench on all fasteners, including the lugnuts. (VERY important on aluminum wheels to RE-torque after driving for a day or so!)

sunburn · April 2003

Does anyone know at what temperature the "Trans Temp" light comes on at for a 2002 45RFE tranny? I'm just curious if it comes on before the tranny fluid turns to black goo. Thanks.

dustyk · May 2003

The Transmission Temperature Indicator lamp should illuminate when the automatic transmission fluid is at 275F (135C) or above.

Dusty

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

Dodge Dakota: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions