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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Will have to post a link for some pics shortly. Still can't believe their response.. Regards,Ger.
Looks messy on that drivers side..as i see grease on the inside of my rim.. No zirc fitting either.
Ger
Too bad the repl. units don't have grease zerks. I was never a fan of the so-called "lube for life" ball joints etc.
Any idea how I can tighten this thing up? I have a Haynes manual and it does not disclose how to access the tilt control for the ash tray.
MIL engine light has come on with an ODB code, P0440. Any ideas what this one is and can one resolve this by themselves without too much grieve.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
Bookitty
Here is the listing.
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
The most common cause for P0440 is a gas cap that is not sealed properly. Make certain that you always put the gascap on tight.
Some folks haver reported that the "guts" of their gascap became so corroded that it would not seal properly... In that case, replace the cap with one from a scrapyard as a cheep fix.
There are many other reasons for the EEC (Everaperatve Emmissiions Control) to flag a failure. In previous appends, I have described the diagnostic tests that take place for the EEC.
Breifly: A small pressure is pumped into the airspace above the fuel in the gastank. If that pressure cannot be maintained, a failure is flagged.
I am new to this board and I have just purchased a 2002 Dakota Quad Cab w/ a 4.7L engine. I have had it for almost a month now and it has started to run hot on the temp gauge, well it hits the line before the actual red H line. When it does I noticed today that it spits water out from the resivour. Now, is there a bad hose or clamp causing this? Please let me know what you think.
Thanks
I am assuming that you have verified that the cooling system is totally full of liquid and it is STILL exibiting overheating. This means that the hoses and clamps are most likely OK. (or you would not be able to keep liquid in the system) I am also assuming that the belt is turning the water pump properly.
The most common issue would be that somone mixed "regular" antifreeze with the HOAT (Hybred organic Acid Technology) that your 2002 originally came with.
Mixing different types of antifreeze can cause gelling and plugging of the internal passageways of the engine and radiator. This is bad.
DO NOT BELEIVE THE CLAIMS ON ANTIFREEZE BOTTLES THAT THEY ARE COMPATABLE WITH OTHER ANTIFREEZE TECHNOLOGIES!!
My first response to a problem such as this would be to flush the ENTIRE cooling system with distilled water and fill with a 50/50 mix of the correct stuff and distilled water.
While flushing, it would be wise to remove and inspect the thermostat for proper operation.
NOTE: The reason for using distilled water is because the HOAT type of antifreeze can react with minerals in tap-water.
After you are sure that the cooling system is up-to-par and there is *still* overheating, you have a more serious issue. Next things to consider are water pump and head gasket.
Thanks for your valued assistance and feedback. I will bookmark the link for future reference.
The gas cap appears to be quite tight and is the newer updated version. I will try to hunt down your previous postings for explanations of the diagnostic test procedures of the ECC and learn. I guess the number of drive cycles with this condition has activated a hard code to be logged. Now, I'm curious as to what other OBDC codes have been flagged thus far. I do recall a P0121 and P0441 codes previously flagged before this current one.
dataguru
I don't believe that the torque converter should ever be in lock-up in 2nd gear. The torque converter is locked-up by the application of the torque converter clutch. The clutch is energized by the Lock-up Solenoid. If lock-up is only occurring in second gear and not in first, I suspect you're TCM is sending a lock-up signal to the solenoid. The solenoid could be defective, I guess, but if you were locked-up I would think you'd experience harsh engagement into Drive and the engine would stall.
Best regards,
Dusty
I don't have any problems. I was just curious that when I'm towing a trailer up a steep grade in 2nd gear, the torque converter is unlocked. However, this can significantly increase the transmission fluid temps due to the slippage in the torque converter. I was just wondering if the temp got high enough would the torque converter lock up to prevent things from overheating?
I would guess that the torque converter slippage rate would be too small given the gear ratio to load factor to raise the transmission fluid temperature very much. The 545RFE has a dual stage pump and electronic pump pressure control. Torque input is monitored as well as clutch slippage to ensure that slippage is kept very low. I don't know if this applies to the torque converter ( I don't think so...), but clutch slippage is so low on the 545RFE that it probably more than compensates for any heat generated by the torque converter.
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks,
Adam
2. Do window shields/bug guards reduce wind noise on the Dakota at freeway speeds?
3. Anyone else have brake noise one year into their new '04's? Can aluminum rim-cleaning agents get into the brake system and cause noise?
I would suspect the transmission fluid that was used when changed, probably used Dextron instead of the mopar sourced transmission fluid. Rick
Adam
Forty restarts regardless of engine.
Regards,
Dusty
Good luck,
Dusty
The very best way to "clean" the rotors is to do some heavy braking to get the brakes smoking. (Also called "letting the smoke out" ) That will burn off any impurities on the braking surface.
Immedeatly after such treatment, DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (that may create hot-spots under the pads.) Instead, drive continously for at least 25 minutes to allow the brakes to cool off before parking the vehicle. Then, allow the brakes to cool overnight. The heat/cool cycle helps "season" the metal in the rotors.
My 2000 3.9, 5-speed Dakota with only 32K was difficult to shift after starting it a couple of weeks ago. It felt like the transmission had "slipped out of alignment." At one point, shifting from first to second took all I could to pull the shifter back. It finally went into gear and eventually the rest of the ride (30 min.) and shifting smoothed out. It drove for the next week like nothing was wrong. Last week, it started the same shifting problem, this time grinding through ALL gears! I stopped at one place for lunch and when I started it up again, this time it wouldn't go into ANY gear - no matter how hard I tried. It didn't matter if the clutch was in, out, four wheel drive selected - nothing. Since I was blocking access to the busy parking lot, I even has two irate guys try and get it into gear, but they gave up. Finally, out of frustration and desperation, I put my knee on the dash and pulled the shifter back, into reverse, with all my might. It finally "ground" into reverse, then the engine died! When the tow truck arrive to take it to the Dodge dealer, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears using two fingers on the shifter!! Go figure. The mechanic got it to fail for him once. Ultimately, the Dodge service guy soaked me for $575 only to tell me that they found a small piece of plastic (which they somehow lost!)- inside the transmission? Epitat: Now the passenger door won't unlock with my key!!!
By the way, I know someone with a 2000 Dakota that had the same identical problem.
Good luck,
Dusty
THANKS for the info! I checked the NHTS website, (Office of Defects Investigations) and there is a TSB(# 9938) about incorrect clutch covers and /or improper flywheels installed. The sevice guy said mine wasn't one of them. Also, as I look at a copy of the mechanic's work order sheet that I requested), it says he suspected the pilot bearing may be seizing on the input shaft (causing it to spin all the time). - NOTHING about the clutch master cylinder or a possible leak. Again, thanks a bunch. I'm off to search the web for info about what you recommend looking at.
Jim
A loss of clutch cylinder pressure is a more likely problem.
Good luck,
Dusty
By contrast, dad's 78 D200 with a direct connect clutch never had an issue until one fine day, a gear self destructed in the NP 435, effectively trashing the whole drivetrain. From the Dana 60 in back, through three u-joints, a carrier bearing and yes, the clutch, the whole thing was junk. But that's another story
Hydraulic clutch systems offer some advantages. Reduced pedal effort, smooth operation, and eliminating the need for periodic adjustment. The downside is increased system complexity and a corresponding increased likelihood of a failed component. Hydraulic systems in general have a component life issue because of the nature of most fluids and seal components used.
They're better than they used to be from the days of European cars or that '62 IH pickup and the IH Scout series. Most Dak owners with manual that I know have not had a problem, except with the transmission itself.
Bests,
Dusty
Since I was forwarned about this problem, I always "work" the clutch gently a few times before driving in very cold weather.
I have encounterd only ONE time when it was about -20F. The clutch would not fully enguage. (With foot OFF of clutch in first gear, my dak would barely creep forward with the engine revving)
Of course none of this has any relavance to the original posters problem ;-)
I have a 01 QC 4.7L auto,4x4. It has 47k miles on it. Recently, after a long trip of 70mph driving it has developed a rough idle and a skip at approx. 1500 rpm. It threw a trouble code of P0306 (cyl #6 misfire). Having not changed the plugs at 30k, I changed the plugs with the same ones and the idle/skip is still there. I know the plugs are ok, could this be a clogged injector? (my next step). In the past every few (4K) thousand miles I'd throw a bottle of gumout in the tank. If it could be a clogged injector, is there a product of high quality or method to clean the injectors myself. Apart from the usual low price point stuff at walmart, is it worth getting an expensive cleaner off the shelf and use it a special way?
I once new a guy with a VW jetta and the dealer sold him 1.5 gallons of a system to clean his injectors (about $35.)He had to follow certain instructions to use.
Anyways, any ideas before Mr. dealer has his way with my wallet.
Thanks
Tom.
ps- no major problems, had my baljoints done under warranty, been doing most maintainence myself. DC seems to cover themselves in the manual as far as the frequency of other components. (trany,transfer, diffs,changes etc.)
Keep us posted.
Good luck,
Dusty
From what I understand, (this site) we have the Hoat, I don't beleive its a 100k, I just remeber not to mix with regular. Now I notice Prestone ads that claim all their new stuff is compatible.??? But I'll probably feel better with expensive!! dealer supplied formula.
Thanks
Tom.
Tom.
The same service manual also states that non-HOAT coolant is green in color, but I saw the MS-9769 at the dealers and it was green as well. According to my overfill cap I have the HOAT and it, too, is green.
The manual also states that HOAT should not be mixed with a non-HOAT coolant, and that MS-9769 should not be mixed with ANY OTHER coolant, HOAT or non-HOAT.
I know that some coolant manufacturers state that their fluid is universally compatible, but I wouldn't take the chance. I suspect that it isn't.
Best regards,
Dusty
Ron35
Thanks,
Tom.
My 2001 Dodge Dakota Is stuck in 4wd. There is no indicator light on either. However I do have a service 4wd light on now????
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Dusty
My suggestion is to see if you've recorded a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If not, check electrical connections between the transfer case harness (shift motor) and the TCCM.
Good luck,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty