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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thanks.
I can monitor the charging voltage "insitu" while driving under all kinds of conditions. This is the only REAL way to ensure that the charging system is working properly.
The voltage regulator has been internal to the computer on Chrysler products since the early 80s at least. If your's is overcharging the computer is a likely suspect. Battery draw with the engine ignition switch in the off position and all lights and accessories off, should be approximately 20 milliamperes.
Regards,
Dusty
If that temp. sensor is wrongly sensing the battery, obviously, the charging voltage could be affected.
I have a 01 QC 4x4 4.7l auto. Just today I noticed when I put my heat or A/c on the only speed that works is the high setting on the knob. The first three are dead- no fan movement. Any ideas what this may be???
All responses appreciated
Thanks
Tom.
Regards,
Dusty
Where is it located, look like, and approx $..
I have an extended warrantee so for my deduct.$50 is it worth it........
Thanks
Tom.
I'm pretty sure the resistor is under $20. Not sure what Dodge will get for labor, but you might be close to your deductible.
Best regards,
Dusty
If that does NOT cure the problem, then suspect lean-running conditions or carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. Somtimes, dirty injectors will not automize the fuel sufficently.
Worst case, you may have a mechanical probelm such as collapsed lifter or failing bearing.
Good luck, Dick
Bookitty
Thanks Dick and all others who replied. I got the part (10.00) and replaced it last night. It works fine now. It was exactly where you said and thanks for the tip to remove it first before uncliping it. This site seems to be saving me more and more $, thanks!
Bookitty- sorry about your cap, same thing happened to me, but luckily someone said to try a $12. gas cap first. I did and it worked. Afterwards I took apart my 01 oem cap and saw why it failed. It had metal discs in there and they had corroded. (looked like some type of valveing).
Here's and update on my ride mechanically, 01 QC 4x4, 4.7 auto. 50k miles, at 2k bad injector,(warranty +poss. dealer trumped up to get work?),at 20k had sway bar bushings changed(warr.), at 30k had armrest hinge cover replaced(warr),had faulty headlight switch replaced under warr. at 35k, had bad fuel cap at 42k, had ball joint recall at 45k, changed plugs with oems at 47k (worn bad) , 50k blower resistor block, and recently used a lot of fuel inj cleaners and seemed to help idle.
Other than synt oil changes at every 5-6k ,tire rotation every 7-8k, a k&n air filter at 20k, and changed rear end oil to mob1 gear oil at 30k.
This summer plan to- change rear end fluid again(did not like some metal shavings in there), front diff, poss transfer and trans?, change antifreeze.
In fall plan- poss brakes, shocks??? I have an extended warr to 60k, but most of this little stuff after 36k I do myself as its not covered.
Thanks, I may not always post, but I do check frequently.
Tom.
By Monday, the battery was dead again and the engine died upon reaching work.
Just prior to dying, the engine revved up significantly and the voltage meter moved further to the left indicating less and less charge.
Two Questions:
We plan to have someone look at the computer now to see if there is anything wrong with that. Any items we should be looking out for when we talk to the technicians about the computer?
I have not seen the heat sensor under the battery... can you describe it for me?
Thanks for all the input!
Joe
From your incident description it just sounds like your not charging. If the alternator is proven to be good, there must be either a wiring or a voltage regulator problem.
Recheck that alternator. I've seen my share of aftermarket or rebuilt alternator fail quickly.
Good luck,
Dusty
I have personally had to replace one of those "guaranteed for life" alternators 3 times before getting one that lasted longer than a month.
Depending on the amount of labor involved to replace the alternator, this may or may-not be a good way to go. On some vehicles, the entire bumper and radiator must be removed to replace the alternator.... in those cases, I would just purchanse a better replacement part to begin with.
A good rule of thumb to live by " A 'NEW' COMPONENT DOES NOT MEAN IT IS A 'GOOD' COMPONENT "
We have it going to an electrical shop now to see there is anything they can tell us. We will have them test the "new" alternator too while it's there to see if there is any indication it is bad.
We'll see what happens next.
Thanks for all the input!
Joe
I'm new but need help, I have been told there are two oxygen sensors on the 92 Dodge Dakota but can't find it. Found one before catalytic converter on passenger side approx. 16 to 18 inches before converter, this is a V8 5.2 with single exhaust. Before I rip what is left of my hair out I need HELP!!!!!!
Has anyone added an aftermarket set, and if so can you supply source?
I added a tonneau cover and door edge protectors, but in my parking environment side moldings would be a paint saver.
Thanks!
Jim
Thanks!
Jim
Matter of fact, the owner, who would rather run naked in the Indy 500 than spend a nickel, got his [non-permissible content removed] in the wringer with Delco when they discovered we were subbing eline units for A-Line but charging them full rebuilt price!
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks.
Jody
All PROMs (Programmable Read Only Memory) have a checksum. It is basically all of the bits for the REAL program added togehter and saved as a single number.
So at anytime in the future, the validity of the saved program can be verified by adding together all the bits and checking that answer against this number. Thus the name "checksum"
Bottom line... if a "checksum error" ever shows up... the contents of the PROM has been compromized and is known to not match the original programming. Unfortunately a "checksum error" only can tell you that somting is wrong... not WHAT is wrong.
This checkum is also used by the factory techs to tell if somone has been messing with the programming of their onboard computer. (usually to improve perfomance by injecting more fuel or changing the timing)
If you have not been re-progamming your onboard computer, It sounds as if your computer may need to be replaced. It is a good thing you have that warantee.
Possible Causes: Powertrain Control Module.
Action: Replace and program the PCM.
I Would think that your warranty would cover it.
Dick
I'm 17 and trying to rebuild it. If the library was open I could get a manual for it, but not possible. Can ANYBODY PLEASE HELP ME?
Regards,
Dusty
Does anyone know what can happen to a 4.7 L. engine in a Dakota Sport if driven with the "check engine" light on? My truck went dead, I checked the code: p0207 & p0307 came up. I phoned the dealer, they said to drive it in to get it checked out. I did, with some dificultly. I had to drive in second gear, go to neutral when slowing down while keeping the rpm up above 1700. The dealer STILL doesn't know what is wrong, after installing a new injector and "brain", and now they're down into the engine.....$1250 later!
So, my question is: If I'm told to drive it in after telling them the codes, can a ruined "brain" do this kind of damage? It has no compression on cylinder 7, which says to me that the valve is kaput. Any ideas out there?
Many thanks.
It is time to STOP LOOKING AT THE CODES and do some REAL mechanic work. Pull of those magnesium valvecovers and inspect the OHV mechinism.
How can they charge $1250 with a straignt face and NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. That is a bunch of BS!! Tell them to put the old parts back in and get your $$ back. This is not supposed to be a "guessing game" financed by your bank account.
I would be raising holy h$%#@$ with the service manager and seriously consider calling the States Atturney. This is an OBVIOUS swindle job they have pulled on you.
Drive shaft zero, drive shaft inclination, bad u-joint(s), bent wheel, poor tire-to-wheel radius match up, broken motor mount, or engine performance problems are possibilities.
Regards,
Dusty
If you've ever noticed on Dodge trucks there are little round brightly colored sticky dots placed on the outboard side of a tire when the vehicle is new. These mark the apex of the tire's high spot. Chrysler measures the radial runnout of each wheel and places a mark, either a sticky dot or an embossed symbol ("x", "o") on the inside of the rim. When unmounting a tire on a new Dodge truck, the tire should be marked to ensure that it's remounted exactly in the same location.
When a dealer unmounts a tire they almost never remount correctly, and I know of no truck dealer or national brand tire dealer that checks tire and wheel runnout and match-mounts a tire. Some specialty tire dealers a a few wheel shops around here will do this.
Lately I've heard of more high tire runnout stories than I ever could remember, although lately they've been almost all F-150 stories. I do know of one person that had a RAM with one wheel having high lateral runnout (wobble).
Best regards,
Dusty
mystie
Sounds like your dealer's service staff is doing a little guesing and not troubleshooting.
Keep us posted.
Regards,
Dusty
The first thing I'd check is all the connections to the spark plug coils. If they're okay you might have a worn or cracked spark plug or punky coil.
Regards,
Dusty
Before I get AAA or the service center involved I wanted to check on the boards here. I've got a '02 Dakota Quad 4X4 Sport 4.7, which I absolutely love. I haven't had any problems with it...until now. It has 61k miles and wouldn't start today. It seemed like the battery (little to no power and clicking noise when start). After jumping however the car would idle very briefly and then die. My initial thoughts are 1) the battery is totally shot and can't keep a charge to no matter what's happening the alternator won't help. That being said, I'd think it would keep running even then with pass through voltage. 2) It could be the alternator, I have a little juice left in the battery, however it won't charge up.
I can't drive it in it's current condition because it won't stay running. Is there anyway I can diagnose whether it's an alternator issue without a voltimeter?
Thanks in advance.
Ron35
Something about the electronics makes the Dak very sensitive to the condition of the battery. I have witnessed rough idle, stalling, intermittent illumination of all of the instrument cluster gauges or just a malfunction lamp, erratic "P" codes, the door chime going off randomly, and even poor fuel consumption, conditions that went away for a long, long time as soon as the battery was replaced.
There's also a certain population of the factory batteries not going very far. I think one individual in here had to replace a battery under two years.
My recommendation is to replace the battery with a good unit and re-evaluate your charging and electrical system. I'm guessing that once the battery is replaced it'll be okay.
Please keep us posted.
Best regards,
Dusty
However, you could have a cracked vacuum hose somewhere else. I would suspect that the vacuum line going to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is okay because you're not indicating any other maladies. If there was a vacuum leak to the PCM I'd suspect there would be other symptoms. not sure as of yet how the cruise control being enabled could cause this problem.
Have you been able to pull any fault codes out of it?
Regards,
Dusty
In the case of the Dak in mention, I am actually suprised that it was able to be 'jumped off' at all.
With regard to vehicles in the 21st century, I would not (and do practice the same) even consider 'jumping one off'. Just go ahead and use that time and energy to get a new battery, paying close attention to the type battery and installation procedure.
Newer vehicles work solely off an electronic chain of command, directed by a computer. Just like any computer, they are very susceptible to electrical interference and/or deviation.
Thanks
Forester