Instead of tearing into the dash... why not try backflushing the heatercore? (Use approprate chemicals to help disolve the crud....let it "soak" for awhile to loosen it up.) Worst-case, you will have to tear the dash apart... so what is there to loose?
There is a lot of info available on the internet about various cooling-system cleaning techniques. Spend 20 minutes doing some searching.
In the future, be careful about "mixing" different types of antifreeze. They are NOT compatable and if mixed will cause "gelling" which will plug up heatercore, radiator, engine-passagways... etc.
My clock radio works part of the time. Sometimes the clock display is on and the radio works, other times it's not. Sometimes when I'm driving it suddenly starts working. Is this the radio or just bad wiring or both?
By backflushing it, couldn't I end up with that crud in the engine coolant system?
I think it got clogged up by the last owner, there was a coolant leak which is now fixed. I'm thinking they tried to plug it with some kind of sealant.
By chemicals, you mean adding that to the coolant, then later backflushing, or using a chemical to backflush with?
I am thinking that you could REMOVE the hoses from between the heatingcore and the engine... then just deal with flushing the heatingcore while leaving the engine alone.
The 2 hoses to the heatingcore are very easy to get at under the hood. I would pull them off the ENGINE side. I would start by using a garden-hose to push water thru the heating core backwards to flush the loose crud.... then; 1)Use one of the commercially-available radiator cleaning acids and mix up in a bucket of hot water. 2) use funnel to slowly pour this into one of the hoses to fill the heatingcore with the mixture. (other hose in a bucket) 3) let it sit for about 20 minutes with both hoses raised up high. This will give the acid a chance to "work" on the crud. 4) flush the heating core again with garden hose 5) put all back together and see how it works.
The above is MUCH easier than pulling apart the dashboard to get at the heating core. Personally, I would do everything I could to NOT have to pull apart the dashboard. (unless the heating core was leaking)
If you would prefer to not mess with the above, I would still recommend that you go to a real RADIATOR SHOP and have them acid-clean your entier cooling system.... even this may be better than pulling apart the dashboard.
Besides, if your heatingcore is plugged up... then the rest of the cooling system may be starting to plug up too.
Update on NO blower fan at all speeds. Mentioned I did continuity test on all fuses, ok. Swapped a few same type relays with no resolve. Found: Clicking noise I heard was from cigarette lighter rolling back and forth in ashtray. I use that 12 receptacle for my cell phone. NO wonder the sound never occured when I was stopped. Geeze. Found: Cut back some insulation on fan motor wires and applied 12v and fan works! Next I guess is to remove the small underside panel below the steering column and reseat any connectors. Otherwise, I still have NO blower fan at any speeds and will be back to the local library tomorrow to see wiring diagrams for that circuit.. Ger
i have taken it for a diagnostic test. computer said volts were to high on throttle position sensor and alternator circuit. mechanic suggested i replace throttle position sensor, but checked it and it was good. took alternator in for testing and it is bad. i plan on replacing it on thursday night. i'll keep you posted.
The ckt for the blower is pretty simple. Basically the fanspeed switch controls the +12V feed to the blowermotor;
"HI" sends 12V directly to the motor each of the other speeds passes thru a section of the "blower ressitor" to reduce the voltage to the motor. (The blower-resistor is actially a single series resistor with "taps" along its length..... each tap representing a slower fan speed)
The blower-resistor is mounted in the airflow to keep it cool because it runs VERY hot at low fan speeds.
Given the above explanation, and the fact that you have verified that the blowermotor will run when fed with +12V.... I would probe around on the fanswitch to verify it is receiving the +12V when the key is turned on.
Like I said before, I have the actual factory shop manual with all schematics. ( if you are willing to share your email address....I would gladly share with you the schematic in question)
Bpeebles.. My email is gmillnj@hotmail.com Looked at the switch yest to ensure connector still attached, it is. Will probe arond for the +12v to the switch and unplug-plug any connectors I see under the steering column. Thx, Ger
(Both the FUSE and the RELAY are inside the "power distribution" under the hood) That is the extent of the +12 volt feed to the blowermotor.
The fanswitch and blowerresistor are on the GROUND side of the circuit. (and operate just like I said above in my last append.)
This makes troubleshooting MUCH easier because you can jumper to ground the plug-contacts of the blowerresistor or the fanswitch to see if the blowermotor runs at different speeds.
I joined the Dakota Forum today to get info on a problem that just started with my '01 Quad cab (4x4, LSD, 63k miles) rear differential. It seems to be a common problem; the rear end whine. It started 2 days ago and has gotten progressively worse, noticable at low speeds when decellerating. I took it to the dealer who tells me it could be one or more bad bearings, possibly a pin that has broken in the clutch pack unit, or a problem with the ring/pinion mesh. I was told $1000 to repair it if only requires bearings, shims etc., $1500+ if the LSD unit needs to be replaced. Does this sound reasonable to you and are there any other issues or aspects of this problem I should be aware of? Frankly, in reading some of the previous posts on this problem, I'm surprised it's only starting now, at 63k miles. I'm the second owner and I don't believe the original owner ever had the fluid changed, which I'm sure has contributed to the problem. Does this problem also occur with the front differential?
Does this problem also occur with the front differential? It could happen to ANY differential on any vehicle.... but since you are only using the REAR differential (unless locked in 4WD), the front diff. does not get much wear-n-tear.
First -- Change the fluid in the FRONT differential NOW! (Highly recommend Red Line 75W90 which already includes the LSD additive)
Next, get some additional estimates from other shops for rebuilding your rear differential. It is imperitive that you find a shop that is experienced in rebuilding differentials. This is because rebuilding a differential can be more complicated and exacting that rebuilding an engine. If not done to precise tolerances, the rebuilt differential will not last more than a few thousand miles.
Look in the yellow pages for truck shops and racing shops. This is because most of todays cars do not even have a rear differential so the skills to rebuild one are not too common.
Reports of differential noise or failures are "common" on Dakotas but in actuality this problem occurs in less than 5% of Dakota trucks.
Gear noise usually occurs at a specific ground speed range and characteristically disappears at certain other speeds or driving conditions. If taken out-of-gear and the noise disappears or changes significantly, depleted or low differential lubricant could be the problem, as well as damaged gear teeth or incorrect ring gear backlash.
Bearing noise is usually noted as a whine or growling sound. Worn or damaged pinion bearings will produce a constant pitch noise that changes intensity with vehicle ground speed and are usually higher in pitch. When driven, if the noise is heard or increases with vehicle load, the rear pinion bearing is the source. If the noise is heard or increases in a coast mode, the front pinion bearing is the problem.
Carrier housing or differential bearing noise is usually much lower in pitch and varies with vehicle ground speed.
Axle bearing noise can cause a vibration along with a noise and generally changes with vehicle load. A bad axle bearing can be diagnosed by making sharp turns or complete circles in both directions. If the noise changes or disappears it is likely a bad axle bearing.
I've seen U-joints cause similar problems and sometimes can sound like a bad differential or feel like a bad axle bearing.
Thanks again bpeeples for all your help. After I traced the fan switch terminals to that damn resistor block, and followed the grd wire to the fan, I shorted out the correct FULL on switch fan terminals and shorted the Resistor block terminals needed and the fan worked. As you had mentioned the fan's green wire always has +12 volts on it as the black does too until you switch in the ground through the fan switch. I measured 300 ohms on the series resistor which should have been 0 for full on condition. 12v/300ohms= 0.04 amps , hardly any cuurent to drive a fan motor. Picked up the resistor block for $10.02 and Voila! Full fan action. Let it be known that the resistor block does pass the full on condition of the switch meaning that the 5 terminal fan speed resistor can be "Bad" for the full fan on condition. I did also feel that the full on condition blasts the air out of the ductwork,,and it's louder,...dont think its my imagination (could be) but i can feel the air movement from the back seats of the quad...wasn't like that before. Again, thanks for all the tips and responses here and to my email. Regards, Ger.
i have a 1993 dodge dakota, and when i turn on the defroster/or heat..nothing comes out all i here is a clicking sound..but no air.... i have checked the fuses and they are good. I just wanted to know is it something i can do or do i have to take it to a mechanic. i am somewhat mechanically incline..so if someone can help me..please do so. thanks..
Thanks for the through answers. I decided to pull the cover on the rear diff and at least change the oil, per "bpeebles" advice using Redline 75-90 Synthetic Oil, to see whether it would lessen the noise. I found several metal pieces on the magnet; one large (approx 5/8" dia)semi-circular stamped piece that seems to have been some type of retainer, and 3 small curved pieces that appear to have been part of a larger piece, plus a lot of ground metal fragments. Obviously something let go in a bad way! The ring gear and spider gear sets appear to be OK- no gouging of any of the teeth. I've cleaned it up, resealed and refilled the diff in order to drive it to the shop for repair, hopefully Monday.
I am still on the original set, with about half of the original brake pads left, but the rotors are pulsing now when I stop.
I didn't think they were too bad, but after checking them out up close yesterday I was suprised to see just how bad they are. I've never seen rotors that are so badly grooved, and in multiple places are missing "chunks" of metal (craters in the metal).
Without looking through a few thousand messages, my question is what rotors should I put on? Go with OEM parts? Powerslots? Raybestos? What is the general concensus as to which are the best?
UPDATE: Finally after three trips to the dealership and a 400 mile trip to Nashville I now have the solution to this problem. First let me tell you what the dealership did that did NOT fix it. First they replaced the mass air flow motor and told me that they were confident this would fix it...wrong, then they rebuilt the transmission and said this was the problem...wrong again. While on a trip to Nashville the MIL came on again with all the same symptoms. Stopped at the local autozone read the code, came up as throttle position sensor. Thiry five dollars later problem gone with no problems on the return trip.
I called some autoparts places and discovered that they all carry several "grades" of rotors. I ended up with Raybestos rotors and NAPA CERAMIX pads. This combonation has been working very well for about 3 years.
I got about 43K out of my original rotors. The backsides of them were very rusty and the surface metal was flaking off. I replaced them with some Brembo rotors I got from the Tire Rack. After 2 years and 20K miles, I haven't had any problems. But, until I get another 20K-25K on them, I can't make a final assessment as the whether they are better than the OEM rotors.
Bruce, how many miles total on the Raybestos rotors so far? Your pictures of those Powerslots is scary. Mine are not that bad, those are absolutely horrible. I guess the difference is the PA vs the VT winters.
Sunburn, which set of Brembo's did you go with? They offer a cheap set at $54 a rotor and several more expensive sets at around $110 a rotor.
My current rotors (They said Raybestos on the box...but have "Bendix" stamped in the steel) have perhaps 20K-40K miles on them (2.5 Vermont winters) They have lasted better than the originals and better than those Powerslots. There is no visible rust on the braking-surface.
I also have changed the way I 'treat" my brakes. Every few months, I will take my Dak up a long uphill drive then come down using the brakes heavilly. (repeated stops to let some smoke out) I truly beleive that helps burn off the crud that can promote corrosion.
I was very disapointed that the Powerslots literally desinagrated after only 3 winters. I have NEVER seen any rotors do that in my 30+ years of working on brakes.
I had original Honda rotors get rusty... but that was after 10 Vermont winters. Those certainly gave acceptable service life.
The rotor had "Bendix" stamped in it because it came out of a Bendix mold. Most, if not all of the aftermarket rotor suppliers buy OEM blanks. Different aftermarket companies do different things to them to make them different from other suppliers. Some are cross-drilled, slotted, or receive extra heat treating or hardening processes, or get a special finish.
From the few I've talked to there seems to be mixed results on aftermarkets. I replaced mine at 48K as well. They could have been cleaned up, but I don't like to thin down rotors. Besides, they like to lathe turn them around here. There are few around here that grind the suface to specification. I haven't had good luck lately finding somebody that does a quality refinish on rotors.
I used a factory replacement which is supposed to be better than earlier rotors. The part number was different than the ones I took off. Only time will tell.
I also used a factory (Mopar) pad. The parts guy said they were the same, yet the Mopar pad was cheaper than the part they listed in the parts manual. They looked about the same. On pads the majority of opinion around here is the factory pads are exceptional quality and go the distance without premature scoring. Some aftermarket pads use a different composition (or recipe) and are more abrasive. Some are less abrasive. For now my theory is I have a pad matched to a rotor, at least by factory standards. Again, only time will tell.
I also have a 2003 QC 4X4 30k with having the same symptoms. The only difference is they keep flashing while I'm driving ( head lights, parking lights, fog lights panel lights, dome lights). I replaced the light switch,didn't change a thing. I also used my spare key to see if the every day key was worn not allowing proper contact with all the tumblers. It seem to make a slight difference for a day then when back to flashing. If I play with the key while the flashing is occurring it seems to solve the problem. I have notice if I turn on the lights without the key in the ignition and leave them on the flashing does not occur, So I'm beginning to believe it has something to do with something with the key and or the ignition switch.
Every time I take my truck for long drives (500 miles +) I find water on the passenger’s side floor. I don’t have any over heating problems, so I believe its not radiator fluid just pure water (smells & taste like plain water). This happens whether I am using the heater or A/C. I suspect that its condensation coming from underneath but I’m not sure were. Do anybody know if there is there a condensation drain hose under the dash area?
do not forget that the AC compressor runs even when you ARE NOT USING the "AC" settings. (like in "defrost" mode) It is most likely that the drain for the evaporator is plugged up.
The CTM (Central Timer Module) is like a catch-all where the designers seemed to put functions that did not get into the ECM (Engine Control Module), ABS controller nor the TCM (Transmision Control Module)
The CTM contains (among other things) The intermittent-wiper controls, interiour-light controls....etc.
There was an issue in 2000 - 2001 models wheras a GROUND connection to the CTM was poor. This can result in all kinds of goofy problems. (My intermittant wipers had a mind of their own -- changing speed at irregular times)
Try this -- does your "erratic "ding" problem" change when all the lights are ON and fan is on HIGH? This may help isolate to being a "grounding issue".
I just started having the same exact problem with my 97 Dakota Sport. If I figure it out, I will let you know what fixed it...please do the same. Thanks
My "97 intermitantly starts to die or feels like it looses fuel while driving on the highway. Never around town shifting through gears...just steady driving at 55-70. If play with the pedal it comes back and seems to almost reset after turning of the ignition and re-starting. Can anyone shed some light?
"97 Dakota Sport just started dying at idle. Intermitantly quits when it wants. Sometimes it starts, run perfect...oter time I have to keep the RPM up to keep it running. Can anyone help shed some light? Which sensor is it? I'll send a case of beer if your suggestion works!
Let me also add that the in-tank fuel-pump may be getting whimpy. The engine demands more fuel-flow at highway speeds. (where you first saw the problem)
It would not hurt to test the fuel-flow/pressure tested.
CTM Part Number 56045451AK without Keyless Entry. Part Number 56045452AL with Keyless Entry. You can get them for about $136 + shipping at www.dodge-auto-parts-dealer.com.
I have a 1995 Dakota pickup that does not have ABS braking. I turned it on this morning and the ABS and BRAKE warning lights on the dash stay on. I don't have any brake lights either now. I have turn indicators and rear lights, but no brake lights. In the fuse panel there is no ABS relay or ABS fuse since it dosen't have ABS. Would appreciate any ideas of what keeps the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on? Thank you
My check engine light came on in my 2003 Dodge Dakota. The dealership that performed the diagnosis said that because someone had mixed differnt colors of coolant, the system had to be flushed and a new thermostat needed to be installed. When I told them that they were the only ones to have serviced the vehicle since I bought it.. they said it must have occured shortly after the truck was purchased by its previous owner in early 2003. Is this posible?
sounds very far fetched indeed.Took a mighty long time for that light to wake up, seems to me. Common sense suggests that skepticism is the stronger position on this one. Perhaps it all needed to be done regardless, but the explanation is pretty weird.
Mixing coolant is NOT likely to make the CEL turn on.
You may have some issues with the antifreeze being mixed... but there is no basis that would lead to a CEL.
Perhaps you could tell us the ACTUAL CODE that made the CEL come on? I would be VERY interested about what kind of code led them to beleive that mixing antifreeze would cause a CEL.
Remember -- by Federal law -- the CEL should only come on if there is a failure in a system which would cause undue EMMISSIONS!
The coolant in your Dakota is a hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) type. It is designed to last 5 years. It should not be mixed with other types of coolant. So, mixing can lead to cooling problems - usually overheating.
If your thermostat failed, I'm not sure if that would cause a CEL due to the engine temperature being too low for too long. That can cause increased emissions. If we knew what the error code was, we could better diagnose the problem.
I find the dealer's story a bit suspicious. If your Dakota had any cooling system work by the previous owner, it was probably done under warranty. In which case, the servicing tech should have known not to mix coolant types. But, it doesn't mean that they still didn't screw up.
Hi, all. I have a 2000 Dakata Quad and the engine light came on the other day. Code is P0155. I have read a thread on this and was it Dusty or bpeebles that said the 02 sensors is covered under the 100,000 mile 10 year Fed Emission warranty? But I called my dealer and they said it isnt because it is not the PCM or the Cat Converter. My uncle is a service manager for Dodge and he said it isnt either. What do you think, do I have a position here to argue with the dealer? They charege $105 to do the diagnosis and will probably tell me what I already know, and it will cost $70 to install the O2 sensor. The sensor is $130. How do I know if it is the upstream or downstream sensor? My uncle said that code is the Right Bank upstream 02 sensor. But when I called my dealer they said they cant tell based on the P0155 code whether it is upstream or downstream or left or right?
Maybe someone else could fill in if Bank 2 is R or L and Sensor 1 is the upstream or downstream sensor.
If the dealer can't tell what the problem is from the code, I don't know if I would trust the dealer to do anything to my vehicle. Sounds like they want to hit you up for the fee to dump the code from the PCM. You might try someplace like Autozone They will read the codes for free and might be able to confirm what your uncle said.
The first oxygen sensors down the exhaust pipe are the primary sensors (1). The sensors after the converter are the sensor secondary (2). Bank one is the side with number 1 cylinder (drivers side).
So, it looks like the right upstream sensor is the one.
I own a 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab and have experienced the same problem. The engine light came on and using the ignition-odometer check it displayed engine code P0121. Im assuming the problem is with the TPS sensor voltage. My question is how do I tell if the sensor has the wrong voltage and if so how do I switch it back? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is simply a varible resistor that is attached to the end of the throttleplate axle. (opposite end of where the throttle-cable connects)
The ECU (Engine Control Unit) supplies a constant-current to the TPS and thus can determine the throttle-plate position. The voltage across the TPS is relative to its resistance to that constant-current.
The TPS is held on to the throttlebody with 2 screws and is easilly replacable. After replacing the TPS, you MUST NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE for about a minute after starting the engine to allow the ECU to recalibrate to the different resistance that the new TPS may have.
After that, the ECU will have re-learned what resistance-value represents "idle position".
Comments
There is a lot of info available on the internet about various cooling-system cleaning techniques. Spend 20 minutes doing some searching.
In the future, be careful about "mixing" different types of antifreeze. They are NOT compatable and if mixed will cause "gelling" which will plug up heatercore, radiator, engine-passagways... etc.
Anyone else have this problem?
I think it got clogged up by the last owner, there was a coolant leak which is now fixed. I'm thinking they tried to plug it with some kind of sealant.
By chemicals, you mean adding that to the coolant, then later backflushing, or using a chemical to backflush with?
The 2 hoses to the heatingcore are very easy to get at under the hood. I would pull them off the ENGINE side. I would start by using a garden-hose to push water thru the heating core backwards to flush the loose crud....
then;
1)Use one of the commercially-available radiator cleaning acids and mix up in a bucket of hot water.
2) use funnel to slowly pour this into one of the hoses to fill the heatingcore with the mixture. (other hose in a bucket)
3) let it sit for about 20 minutes with both hoses raised up high. This will give the acid a chance to "work" on the crud.
4) flush the heating core again with garden hose
5) put all back together and see how it works.
The above is MUCH easier than pulling apart the dashboard to get at the heating core. Personally, I would do everything I could to NOT have to pull apart the dashboard. (unless the heating core was leaking)
If you would prefer to not mess with the above, I would still recommend that you go to a real RADIATOR SHOP and have them acid-clean your entier cooling system.... even this may be better than pulling apart the dashboard.
Besides, if your heatingcore is plugged up... then the rest of the cooling system may be starting to plug up too.
Mentioned I did continuity test on all fuses, ok.
Swapped a few same type relays with no resolve.
Found: Clicking noise I heard was from cigarette lighter rolling back and forth in ashtray. I use that 12 receptacle for my cell phone. NO wonder the sound never occured when I was stopped. Geeze.
Found: Cut back some insulation on fan motor wires and applied 12v and fan works!
Next I guess is to remove the small underside panel below the steering column and reseat any connectors.
Otherwise, I still have NO blower fan at any speeds and will be back to the local library tomorrow to see wiring diagrams for that circuit.. Ger
"HI" sends 12V directly to the motor
each of the other speeds passes thru a section of the "blower ressitor" to reduce the voltage to the motor.
(The blower-resistor is actially a single series resistor with "taps" along its length..... each tap representing a slower fan speed)
The blower-resistor is mounted in the airflow to keep it cool because it runs VERY hot at low fan speeds.
Given the above explanation, and the fact that you have verified that the blowermotor will run when fed with +12V.... I would probe around on the fanswitch to verify it is receiving the +12V when the key is turned on.
Like I said before, I have the actual factory shop manual with all schematics. ( if you are willing to share your email address....I would gladly share with you the schematic in question)
The +12V that feeds the blowermotor DOES NOT go thru the fanswitch nor the blowerresistor. Instead, the +12 volt feed to the blowermotor is as folows;
+12V(battery) ---> FUSE ---> RELAY ---> blowermotor
(Both the FUSE and the RELAY are inside the "power distribution" under the hood)
That is the extent of the +12 volt feed to the blowermotor.
The fanswitch and blowerresistor are on the GROUND side of the circuit. (and operate just like I said above in my last append.)
This makes troubleshooting MUCH easier because you can jumper to ground the plug-contacts of the blowerresistor or the fanswitch to see if the blowermotor runs at different speeds.
I joined the Dakota Forum today to get info on a problem that just started with my '01 Quad cab (4x4, LSD, 63k miles) rear differential. It seems to be a common problem; the rear end whine.
It started 2 days ago and has gotten progressively worse, noticable at low speeds when decellerating. I took it to the dealer who tells me it could be one or more bad bearings, possibly a pin that has broken in the clutch pack unit, or a problem with the ring/pinion mesh. I was told $1000 to repair it if only requires bearings, shims etc., $1500+ if the LSD unit needs to be replaced. Does this sound reasonable to you and are there any other issues or aspects of this problem I should be aware of? Frankly, in reading some of the previous posts on this problem, I'm surprised it's only starting now, at 63k miles. I'm the second owner and I don't believe the original owner ever had the fluid changed, which I'm sure has contributed to the problem. Does this problem also occur with the front differential?
TIA.
otwohr
First -- Change the fluid in the FRONT differential NOW! (Highly recommend
Red Line 75W90 which already includes the LSD additive)
Next, get some additional estimates from other shops for rebuilding your rear differential. It is imperitive that you find a shop that is experienced in rebuilding differentials. This is because rebuilding a differential can be more complicated and exacting that rebuilding an engine. If not done to precise tolerances, the rebuilt differential will not last more than a few thousand miles.
Look in the yellow pages for truck shops and racing shops. This is because most of todays cars do not even have a rear differential so the skills to rebuild one are not too common.
Gear noise usually occurs at a specific ground speed range and characteristically disappears at certain other speeds or driving conditions. If taken out-of-gear and the noise disappears or changes significantly, depleted or low differential lubricant could be the problem, as well as damaged gear teeth or incorrect ring gear backlash.
Bearing noise is usually noted as a whine or growling sound. Worn or damaged pinion bearings will produce a constant pitch noise that changes intensity with vehicle ground speed and are usually higher in pitch. When driven, if the noise is heard or increases with vehicle load, the rear pinion bearing is the source. If the noise is heard or increases in a coast mode, the front pinion bearing is the problem.
Carrier housing or differential bearing noise is usually much lower in pitch and varies with vehicle ground speed.
Axle bearing noise can cause a vibration along with a noise and generally changes with vehicle load. A bad axle bearing can be diagnosed by making sharp turns or complete circles in both directions. If the noise changes or disappears it is likely a bad axle bearing.
I've seen U-joints cause similar problems and sometimes can sound like a bad differential or feel like a bad axle bearing.
Good luck,
Dusty
I measured 300 ohms on the series resistor which should have been 0 for full on condition. 12v/300ohms= 0.04 amps , hardly any cuurent to drive a fan motor. Picked up the resistor block for $10.02 and Voila! Full fan action.
Let it be known that the resistor block does pass the full on condition of the switch meaning that the 5 terminal fan speed resistor can be "Bad" for the full fan on condition.
I did also feel that the full on condition blasts the air out of the ductwork,,and it's louder,...dont think its my imagination (could be) but i can feel the air movement from the back seats of the quad...wasn't like that before.
Again, thanks for all the tips and responses here and to my email. Regards, Ger.
i have checked the fuses and they are good. I just wanted to know is it something i can do or do i have to take it to a mechanic. i am somewhat mechanically incline..so if someone can help me..please do so. thanks..
I decided to pull the cover on the rear diff and at least change the oil, per "bpeebles" advice using Redline 75-90 Synthetic Oil, to see whether it would lessen the noise. I found several metal pieces on the magnet; one large (approx 5/8" dia)semi-circular stamped piece that seems to have been some type of retainer, and 3 small curved pieces that appear to have been part of a larger piece, plus a lot of ground metal fragments. Obviously something let go in a bad way!
I am still on the original set, with about half of the original brake pads left, but the rotors are pulsing now when I stop.
I didn't think they were too bad, but after checking them out up close yesterday I was suprised to see just how bad they are. I've never seen rotors that are so badly grooved, and in multiple places are missing "chunks" of metal (craters in the metal).
Without looking through a few thousand messages, my question is what rotors should I put on? Go with OEM parts? Powerslots? Raybestos? What is the general concensus as to which are the best?
I called some autoparts places and discovered that they all carry several "grades" of rotors. I ended up with Raybestos rotors and NAPA CERAMIX pads. This combonation has been working very well for about 3 years.
Sunburn, which set of Brembo's did you go with? They offer a cheap set at $54 a rotor and several more expensive sets at around $110 a rotor.
I also have changed the way I 'treat" my brakes. Every few months, I will take my Dak up a long uphill drive then come down using the brakes heavilly. (repeated stops to let some smoke out) I truly beleive that helps burn off the crud that can promote corrosion.
I was very disapointed that the Powerslots literally desinagrated after only 3 winters. I have NEVER seen any rotors do that in my 30+ years of working on brakes.
I had original Honda rotors get rusty... but that was after 10 Vermont winters. Those certainly gave acceptable service life.
The rotor had "Bendix" stamped in it because it came out of a Bendix mold. Most, if not all of the aftermarket rotor suppliers buy OEM blanks. Different aftermarket companies do different things to them to make them different from other suppliers. Some are cross-drilled, slotted, or receive extra heat treating or hardening processes, or get a special finish.
From the few I've talked to there seems to be mixed results on aftermarkets. I replaced mine at 48K as well. They could have been cleaned up, but I don't like to thin down rotors. Besides, they like to lathe turn them around here. There are few around here that grind the suface to specification. I haven't had good luck lately finding somebody that does a quality refinish on rotors.
I used a factory replacement which is supposed to be better than earlier rotors. The part number was different than the ones I took off. Only time will tell.
I also used a factory (Mopar) pad. The parts guy said they were the same, yet the Mopar pad was cheaper than the part they listed in the parts manual. They looked about the same. On pads the majority of opinion around here is the factory pads are exceptional quality and go the distance without premature scoring. Some aftermarket pads use a different composition (or recipe) and are more abrasive. Some are less abrasive. For now my theory is I have a pad matched to a rotor, at least by factory standards. Again, only time will tell.
Bests to all,
Dusty
Every time I take my truck for long drives (500 miles +) I find water on the passenger’s side floor. I don’t have any over heating problems, so I believe its not radiator fluid just pure water (smells & taste like plain water). This happens whether I am using the heater or A/C. I suspect that its condensation coming from underneath but I’m not sure were. Do anybody know if there is there a condensation drain hose under the dash area?
It is most likely that the drain for the evaporator is plugged up.
The CTM contains (among other things) The intermittent-wiper controls, interiour-light controls....etc.
There was an issue in 2000 - 2001 models wheras a GROUND connection to the CTM was poor. This can result in all kinds of goofy problems. (My intermittant wipers had a mind of their own -- changing speed at irregular times)
Try this -- does your "erratic "ding" problem" change when all the lights are ON and fan is on HIGH? This may help isolate to being a "grounding issue".
1. The Throttle Position Sensor could be defective.
2. The Idle Air Motor could be intermittent, or the idle air port may be dirty.
3. A sticking PCV valve.
4. Bad intake manifold gasket (yes, they can cause an intermittent problem)
5. Sticking or intermittent EGR valve.
Keep us on posted on what you find. I'll give you the address for the beer later!
Bests,
Dusty
It would not hurt to test the fuel-flow/pressure tested.
Chief, There is an in-tank fuel filter on that year Dakota as well.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
You may have some issues with the antifreeze being mixed... but there is no basis that would lead to a CEL.
Perhaps you could tell us the ACTUAL CODE that made the CEL come on? I would be VERY interested about what kind of code led them to beleive that mixing antifreeze would cause a CEL.
Remember -- by Federal law -- the CEL should only come on if there is a failure in a system which would cause undue EMMISSIONS!
If your thermostat failed, I'm not sure if that would cause a CEL due to the engine temperature being too low for too long. That can cause increased emissions. If we knew what the error code was, we could better diagnose the problem.
I find the dealer's story a bit suspicious. If your Dakota had any cooling system work by the previous owner, it was probably done under warranty. In which case, the servicing tech should have known not to mix coolant types. But, it doesn't mean that they still didn't screw up.
O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Maybe someone else could fill in if Bank 2 is R or L and Sensor 1 is the upstream or downstream sensor.
If the dealer can't tell what the problem is from the code, I don't know if I would trust the dealer to do anything to my vehicle. Sounds like they want to hit you up for the fee to dump the code from the PCM. You might try someplace like Autozone They will read the codes for free and might be able to confirm what your uncle said.
The first oxygen sensors down the exhaust pipe are the primary sensors (1). The sensors after the converter are the sensor secondary (2). Bank one is the side with number 1 cylinder (drivers side).
So, it looks like the right upstream sensor is the one.
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P1281 - Engine Cold for Too Long (Chrysler/Jeep Only)
A faulty thermostat could trigger one of these. I would suspect P1281.
I own a 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab and have experienced the same problem. The engine light came on and using the ignition-odometer check it displayed engine code P0121. Im assuming the problem is with the TPS sensor voltage. My question is how do I tell if the sensor has the wrong voltage and if so how do I switch it back?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
The ECU (Engine Control Unit) supplies a constant-current to the TPS and thus can determine the throttle-plate position. The voltage across the TPS is relative to its resistance to that constant-current.
The TPS is held on to the throttlebody with 2 screws and is easilly replacable. After replacing the TPS, you MUST NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE for about a minute after starting the engine to allow the ECU to recalibrate to the different resistance that the new TPS may have.
After that, the ECU will have re-learned what resistance-value represents "idle position".