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Maybe this is a question for you Car_man, should I pay the inception fees upfront or have them added to the cap cost? I'd rather part with the least amount of money upfront, even if it means a higher payment. Also, which fees can be negotiated (bank fees, doc. fees, acquisition, disposition, etc.)? I'm going through Infiniti Financial in case that helps.
Any insight would be appreciated.
05 Accord Coupe LX
44060(OH)
5 spd
MSRP: 21,110
Selling price: 19,500
residual: 11, 200
36 months, 12k per, 0 down, $279 per
Got this info over the phone from a local honda dealer, didn't get the money factor, What would the money factor be on this through AHFC? I figured they quoted be around 5%, what can I actually expect. That residual I was quoted on was quite surprising but I'd rather see it in writing.
Thanks
Once you have checked out these articles, do some research on the selling price of the truck that ou are interested in. Always remember that the selling prices of leased vehicles are negotiable just as if you were paying cash for or financing them. You can look up its full MSRP and Edmunds.com True Market Value (approximately what others are paying for it right now) in the New Vehicle Pricing section of this site. For additional feedback on what others are paying for similar trucks right now, you should check out the following discussion: "Jeep Liberty: Prices Paid & Buying Experience".
When you have an idea of this truck's full MSRP and an approximate selling price, stop back in this discussion and I can calculate a sample lease payment on it for you using Chrysler Financial's current lease program.
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Lease payments are composed of two main components, the depreciation portion and the interest portion. When you heard that your vehicle's lease payment is based upon 50% of its selling price what the person who told you this should have said is that you only pay for 50% of typical a vehicle's depreciation in a lease. The exact amount of this percentage varies by bank, model, and the length of your lease. In addition to this depreciation you will have to pay interest as well.
Leasing this truck for 60 months is not a good idea. I usually advise consumers to lease for 36 to 39 months. One reason I advise against leasing for that long is that your vehicle's basic warranty will have long since expired by the end of your lease. As a result, you will have to pay to make any necessary repairs out of your own pocket before turning your vheicle in or have to pay a lease-end penalty for excess wear and tear. Also, a lot can happen during the course of five yours. Your needs could change, causing you to need a more or less expensive vehicle, your commute could change causing you to far excess your mileage allowance, your family situation could change causing you to need more space, or you could just plain get sick of your leased vehicle. All of these things would cause you to need, or at least want, a new car or truck before the scheduled end of a five year lease. Unfortunately, it is usually fairly expensive to get out of leased vehicles well before their scheduled end, to with a long lease like this you are stuck.
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Anyhow, let me know this car's full MSRP and I will giv eyou my opinion of this deal.
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I would be more than happy to calculate a sample lease payment on this vehicle for you using BMW Financial Services' actual lease program. However in order for me to do so I need some additional informaiton from your first, including this truck's full MSRP and how long you want to lease it for. I can work up a sample lease payment on the XC90 that you want as well, but in addition to the aforementioned pieces of information I also need you to tell me its selling price.
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As I said earlier, once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value.
If your car's purchase option is as high as you say and IFS is not willing to work with you, then purchasing your G35 is not a good option. You could always look around for a good deal on an inexpensive used vehicle that you could drive for a few months. Theoretically, if you get a good enough deal on it would would not lose much, if anything on it when you turn around and sell it in a few months. I have a friend at work how always buys in demand vehicles, like the VW Beetle when it first came out, the limited BMW M3 Sedan, etc who always seems to make out like a bandit when he goes to sell his cars.
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MSRP: $63284
Price $56,000
36 mos./12k miles
Residual: 54%
Money Factor: .00245 --from lexus
$0 down payment
Approx.Monthly payment which includes taxes: 881.00
Would Like to bring Payment down to around $600 ?
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the msrp is $20,905
the tax is $1794
the selling price with $18,073.15 (with the tax included)
so, my payments are $246 / month (35 months) $0 down, $9432 residual
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mazda6- how did I do on this lease? by reechz May 27, 2005 (11:22 pm)
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Mazda6- with Automatic Tranny 2.3 4 cylinder.
Smart buy-
$0 down
$246 / month- 35 months
residual $9432-
tax in NY is 8 3/4%
Have to wait till Tuesday to get the car (they had trade with another dealer) and only put $100 down (didn't sign any binding docs) so if I got ripped off I will eat the $100 and go elsewhere.
In an earlier posting from early May, for a 2005 XC90 2.5T AWD (for 36 months/12k miles/yr), you quoted a money factor of .00148 and a residual of 58%.
But the dealer (in CT) is now telling me that the best they can do is .00246 and 56% with Chase (with a price that's $3,000 off the MSRP of $47,625 = $44,625)
OR he can also do:
.00163 and 56% with Volvo Finance (with a price that's $2,000 off the MSRP of $47,625 = $45,625)
He's claiming that Chase and Volvo Finance have different dealer incentives and that's why he can offer different sales prices.
I think he's just playing with the numbers, but is there any way the finance numbers he's quoting are legitimate? Could they have changed since early May? These are supposedly May numbers he's using.
Thanks.
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I am seeking a GS300 AWD without navigation. The dealers in Chicago (McGrath, Orland Park) are quotoing MSRP only. I can not pay msrp but I want this car!
I uncovered an advertisement by lease-by-tel (www.leasefax.com) that seems to be offering very attractive lease options on new cars.
Is anybody familar with this program? If yes, any suggestions/pitfalls?
I am appreciative of any/all input.
Paul D.
I am looking to lease a 2005 Lexus es330. MSRP is $33,000.00. I would like to get a corresponding money factor and residual value for a 3 year/12,000 mile lease and what that equals for a monthly payment. Thank you for the help.
As for sell price, best offer we've received so far, after soliciting quotes from several area dealers, is $25,182 before tax & lic. According to dealer, for the specific Outback Ltd he's quoting, that's $2k below invoice, which seems like a lot (is this possible?).
We also researched lease offers through leasecompare.com, and based on assumption of top-tier credit (which we have), they came back with several bank lease offers with monthly pmts between about $400 and about $420. HOWEVER, the lease term they all came back with is 39 mo, rather than 36, which was what we wanted. Is this standard? Can we go back to the bank and ask them for 36 mo rather than 39 mo term? Or do we extend warranty on car to match slightly longer lease term?
I'm not sure about difference between independent bank leases and lease through manufacturer (dealer?). Is there an advantage to either? Do we take the best bank lease offer and go to the dealer with it, and see if dealer will match, or do we just lease through bank based on negotiated price of car?
FYI, we're in Santa Monica, CA.
Thanks again!
As far as your $3,000 cap cost reduction goes, I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for your 525i would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $3,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all.
I just double checked your lease payment calculations, and I also come up with $520 per month for this car before tax, assuming that you are paying a security deposit and acquisition fee. If I was in your situation, I would make sure that this dealer walked me through this deal to see why they are quoting a higher monthly payment.
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Thanks!!
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If you were to lease a 2005 Acura TSX without navigation with an MSRP of $27,760 and a purchase price of $25,800 through American Honda Finance Corp. in May for 36 months with 12,000 miles per, its zero down, pre-tax monthly payment should be around $363. I used a factor of .00240 and a residual of 59% to arrive at this payment.
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Using the numbers that you mentioned in your post, I come up with an estimated zero down, pre-tax monthly payment of around $881 for this car. You are already being given a substantial discount on it, so there probably isn't much room to work with there and the dealer isn't marking up your money factor any so I don't see any way that you can come even close to $600 per month for this car. The current lease program will always yield a 3 year payment of around $800.
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