Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

txqc2000 · February 2001

I believe the gray Husky floormat is a little lighter than the Agate interior (the dark grey). It is closer to the "Mist Gray" interior color. I originally bought a black color Husky floor liner for my rearcab, which actually looked pretty good. Then I changed my mind and bought the Mopar rubber molded "Cargo Area Tray" instead b/c it is an exact color match to my Agate interior and is more of a custom fit. You can see an example of this on the Dodge website: http://www.4adodge.com/gap/index.html?dakota

After entering the info. about your vehicle, choose the "interior protection" section and the cargo area mat should come right up.

The Mopar part ended up being roughly the same price as the Husky liners b/c the salesman @ my dealership sold it to me at his cost (around $65) and offers slightly more protection for the whole rear cab when your rear seats are up. Otherwise, I think both products are pretty good, with the Husky liners perhaps being a little more durable (feels like they use thicker rubber).

Good luck.

socaldude · February 2001

Hi folks,

I was just wondering if anyone had experienced sluggish shifting from the auto tranny. I've
found when accelerating to freeway speed, the shift to 4th takes forever, even if I let up on
the throttle to help it along. Any comments on this?

Also, my bed is higher on one side than the other so that it looks a bit crooked from
behind the truck. The dealer says it's "within spec" at a quarter inch difference, so didn't
feel it was necessary to do anything about it. Is that appropriate?

Thanks in advance for any assistance/comments.

cbkid · February 2001

QUAD CAB

trippinglizard · February 2001

Personally I think the multi auto shifting is a little rough around the edges . . . pun intended! I test drove a quad, and the shifting between 2nd and 3rd was sluggish . . . I feel that its not hurting anything, but is just a problem with the computer shifting/sensor system.

** X-line is easier on the knees and just as tacky . . . its more rubber like than rhino . . . Go x-line if you plan on ever putting your elbows or knees on the liner!!!

citizensteve · February 2001

I'm in the market for a Quad Cab pickup. I'm considering the Dakota QC V6. Undecided on 4x4 vs 4x2 nor have I decided on Auto vs. Manual. I from Jersey so driving in snow is an issue. I won't be towing. I've been reading that 4x4 may not be "true 4WD" without certain options. If I decide to go 4x2 will I have trouble in the snow? If I decide to go 4x4 what option group(s) will I need to get "true 4WD"? Is the choice of transmissions impacted by any of these options?

Also, does anyone have an insight of the overall comfort level of the benchseat in the QC vs. the bucket seat upgrade? I can't seem to find a QC with the bench seat up front.

danodw · February 2001

Couldn,t tell you much about driving in snow. We get very little here although I have driven on both snow and ice at times. wheather you get the 2WD or 4WD is up to you but which ever you get I would insist on the Anti-Spin Diff. With Anti spin I had no problem on snow but we don't get a lot. It makes the differance in traction but as far as I know there is no difference in gas. Read other post about it. I would also go with the 4.7L V8 even If you don't do much towing. I think with the weight of the truck gas mil want be that much diff. I haven't driven the V6 QC but what I read I would go with the 4.7, I have the 4.7 and I love it. Compared to other models I have had with v6 the V8 is a better choice.

trippinglizard · February 2001

The V6 is under powered for the overall weight of the truck . . you'll get worse gas mileage with the V6 than the 4.7 v8 . . . this is because the v6 will have to work so much more thus consuming more gas to power the truck. With trucks I find the 5-speed manual to be cumbersome . . . plus you'll have to factory order one in order to get manual.
Concerning 4x4 or 4x2. Both should be purchased with the anti-spin differential to get true 4x4 like response. Other wise only one tire on each axle will be the drive tire. This is very important in snow and ice conditions . . . especially with 4x2 . . . dodge calls it various things but defiantly get limited slip/anti spin differential!
On a 4x4 their will be a greater possibility of having to fix more parts down the road . . . but it's better than replacing the whole truck if you should happen to spin outta control and hit a tree. You can always disengage the 4x4 and drive in 4x2 when you don't need it. At that point it's only using a tad more gas than if it were only a 4x2, because of the 4x4 added weight. Bottom line it comes down to how much you want to spend. I live in wis. and find the 4x4 to be a real plus in the winter season . . . and when its rainy!

trippinglizard · February 2001

sorry danodw . . . posted my similar response before seeing yours!

bpeebles · February 2001

For the record...

DC calls their LSD "Trac Loc"
The name GM has for theirs is "Posi Traction"

The operation of these units are very simular. GM has clutch 'plates' while the DC unit has clutch 'cones'.

Here is some more info...
Differential Differences

4X4 ABCs

Technical detail on rear axles

jbardram · February 2001

Recently read the 2002 Ram will have Chrysler's new 210 bhp V-6 replacing the 3.9. Good chance this will filter to the dakota, so if you're dead set on the V6 it may be worth the wait until the 2002 model year.

jbardram · February 2001

of the 2002 Ram, aside from the new 3.7V6 it will offer our 4.7/multispeed http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=3271&sid=181&n=157

ayrow · February 2001

Steve,

Check my post #1991 concerning the seats.

bookitty · February 2001

Harold, they're not using points, carbs and generators? What will they think of next?

Bookitty

bookitty · February 2001

Steve, posting this from LBI, NJ and would offer the following advice. Do yourself a big favor, and opt for the 4.7 V8. The 3.9 is at best, marginal in a vehicle of this size and weight. That in addition to the fact that the 3.9 is old (and not very good) technology. The V6 will always be working so hard, that mileage may fall below that of the 4.7. 4WD or 2WD, the limited slip differential is the only way to go. as far as transmission types, that is a matter of choice. I personally prefer a manual, but many prefer the automatic. Just remember that anything you order on a new truck will be cheaper than trying to retrofit it at a later date. Ask questions, that's how you will learn about the product.

Bookitty

bobs5 · February 2001

If you are unsure of 4x4 or 2x4, at least go for the limited slip rear axle. I am in NJ, and the last snow we had, 4x4 was not necessary, but I can see if the snow were greater, the 4x4 would be necessary.

"True 4x4" to me, this means all wheels get power.
The 4x4 system has an open differential in the front so only one wheel will get power up front.

So what this means is if you go for a 4x4 with the limited slip rear, it is actually a 3 wheel drive.

As far as to which tranny to go for, it is a person preference issue. I prefer a manual tranny myself.

If I am correct, the difference between the bench and buckets is the section in the middle which connects the bench seat. Otherwise the seats are the same.

I like a stick shift so the bucket seats are better for me as I don't particular like a to have a person in the middle spot because it interferes with the stick shift operation.

As far as engine choices are concrened, go with the 4.7 v8 as oppose to the v6. The difference between gas mileage is only something like 1 mpg.

bluebayou · February 2001

The final option that I'm pondering over is the rear end ratio. I'm getting ready to purchase the QC SLT 4.7 4x4 w/ lsd and Tire and Wheel Package. I want the fuel economy of the 3.55 but like the grunt off the line that all of the reviews rave about. I've read several post regarding engine RPM at speed and how the larger tires of the "tire and wheel package" influence the final drive ratio. can anybody give me some specifics on the 3.55 vs 3.92 for this application. I originally thought that the 3.55 would be fine but with such a tall tire, i'm getting a little confused.

As always you guys are the best!!

schoonover · February 2001

Original Post:

....... just got my 2001 quad with 4.7, auto, 3.55, 4x4, sport plus, leather, deluxe overhead, skid plate, trailer tow, d. I must say, I love this truck..... It is VERY powerful, VERY smooth on the road and I am surprised that dodge has not gotten more recognition for this truck.

My only concern is this.... My truck shifts out of overdrive VERY easily on the highway. On the slightest incline, or with a slight push on the throttle, with seemingly plenty of power to spare ...wwwwWWWWHHAAAA .... there it goes ... out of overdrive. I have not towed anything yet, but it this is any indication, I will just have to turn the overdrive off when I do.

My brother has driven a similar quad and he had the same comment about that 4.7 auto. What gives!! Does anyone know if dodge has identified a problem or if they can alter the shift points. Feedback?? Same problem?? Comments??.......

NEW INFO: I towed a small enclosed trailer today and as expected I kicked out of overdrive on the SLIGHTEST incline. Now, I was driving 65 -70 on the interstate and had a head wind. But it just seems silly that a strong V-8 truck goes in and out of overdrive so easily.... even if it is loaded or unloaded. To top it off I averaged 10.5 mpg !!!!!!

A guy a few posts after my original says I am feeling my torque converter letting loose, but I know that is not the case because the downshift RPM change is identical to when I press the overdrive off button. He also stated that the 4.7 is a high reving motor and the computer controlled tranny shifts so easily to keep it in the power band. Well...maybe...but why do some people on this list have the problem and some do not. Another post said that he and a friend with identical trucks drove the same hills and one shifted out all the time and one did not. How is this possible???

I am comparing my Quad to other V8 trucks I have owned or driven I guess I will go ask my dealer. Any comments????

billyhill · February 2001

I think a checklist for initial inspection of a new Dakota Quad was previously published in the forum. I need it when my new flame red Dakota Quad (4x4, 4.7 V8,man 5-sp,4-whl ABS,power bench,bedliner,skids,AS diff,T&H Group,fog lamps,HD Svc for dealer invoice minus $1500 fact and farm rebate)arrives within the week.Other info for forum interest: my pricing research indicates best buys for grill/brush guards is black Steelhorse Euroguard from Quadratec ($300),black Westin Signature Stepbars from Pep Boys($200) and chrome bed rails from JCWhitney ($79),Guards and Steps are frame attached,no drill.

biglucy · February 2001

Howdy,

I think the $2000.00 rebate is now in effect. That will give you $2500.00 with the farm rebate. Check this out, I'm sure you wouldn't mind an extra grand taken off the bill!

billyhill · February 2001

Thanks! You'r correct! Just checked with my dealer - $1000 additional will be subtracted from my delivery purchase price even though I had agreed to pay more.Good news for me but not so good for those whose vehicles were delivered only last week or several months ago.New $2000 rebate began 12 Feb 01.

slickwilliedj · February 2001

how did you discover your bed was higher on one side then the other? which side is higher?

bookitty · February 2001

Norm, as I do not have an automatic transmission, I cannot answer your first question. I can however address the towing in overdrive scenario with these two cardinal rules.

Rule # 1 Never tow in overderive.
Rule # 2 Always conform to rule # 1.

Bookitty

drdakota · February 2001

I just recently purchased a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab with a 4.7L V8 and AWD/4WD. Is this the same as the bomb used in the 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Has anyone experienced any problems with this system on the Dakota?

earl1z19 · February 2001

Today I had the ultimate performance test for myQC. I had stopped @ a customers place and when I got back to my truck his dog was right beside me. Upon pulling out the dog would not stay away from the tire. Once clear, I mashed the accelerator and was able to out run a full grown German shepard. Now that is performance! Gotta love the 4.7!

sscckk · February 2001

I've recently ordered a 2WD, 5.9 3.92 LSD Quad to replace my Toyota 4WD ext. Cab V6.
My 1992 toyota has 190,000 miles, has been and still is a bad [non-permissible content removed] ride. I have pulled my 8,000 pound Boat/trailer for the past 2 years with this truck. It's a 35' load and I NEVER drive more than 30 miles per hour, but that beauty of a truck pulls it up a wet ramp everytime. The catch is I must put the truck in LOW 4WD to get momentum (My Toyota has no LSD).
In either case I ordered the Quad not necessarily to replace, but to accompany my Toyota. I have the need to transport employees and kids on a regular basis, but still need the use of an open bed and I thought this would be a nice truck to do it in.
My question is this...Will this truck possibly pull the boat with only 2WD allowing me to let the Toyota rest and Where are all of the 5.9 owners at?? I thought the 4.7 was sufficient, however I am not concerned about gas milage and felt I might as well have all I can get if I ever need it...short of 4WD obviously.
Thanks for the advise.

StoneCold

1stdakota · February 2001

I purchased a new QC 2000 in November off the lot. It did not have the fog lamps package. However as QC owners know without fog lamps, the lower bumper facia has dummy indentations where the fog lamps would have been installed from the factory. Has anyone had these cut out and have after market fog lamps installed? If so did it look like a factory job? I'm thinking about having the fog lamps installed, but am concerned about how it will look compared to factory. Any help is appreciated.

stnick · February 2001

Jerry, I also bought my 2000 QC off the lot and it was w/o fog lights. I ordered the fog light kit from Dodge dealer parts dept. Cost about 130.00. I installed them myself and I dought anyone can tell them from factory installed. I cut out the facia with a curved exacto type knife. The kit has all mounts, wiring, and new light switch. If your comfortable doing this type of work, its not too bad of a job,Or I'm sure the dealer would be happy to install. Hope this helps, Nick.

mtrogstad · February 2001

I expect to take delivery next week. Just like billyhill, I would love to have someone post the final checklist. Thanks.

socaldude · February 2001

It looks crooked when I walk up from behind it. I took it to the dealer, and they measured it -
one side is .25 in higher than the other. So they said that was "within tolerance" and indicated
they couldn't do anything about it....

bobs5 · February 2001

I have the 4x4, T&H package, 5 spd manual, and 3.55 axle.
At 55 mph the engine is at approximately 1600 rpm, in 5th gear.
To me, the rpm is a bit low for passing, unless a downshift is made.
If I were to order again, then I would probably go with the 3.92 axle.

deangh · February 2001

New member to the Town Hall. Good morning from COLD Minnesota. Have owned GM's most of my life. So the Dodge thing is new for me. The financing is very attractive as is the 4 doors with available 360 V-8. I know most V-8's in this size will get about 14 - 16 mpg on freeway driving regardless of the make. What can I expect from the Dakota as far as ride and overall performance? What should I expect for gas mileage in the 50/50 mix of city/hwy commuter driving? I have read a few of the post and 10 - 12 mpg would scare me! Any help/information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Dean

steve234 · February 2001

deangh: As reliable as the old 360 is, the 4.7 is much more pleasurable to drive and is actually quicker than the 360. If a person was to tow more than 50% of the time, the 360 is the best choice, but for every day driving the 4.7 is best.
sscckk: As far as towing goes, the rig specified can probably tow 8000 lbs with no problems, but the load is outside the limits for that truck. However, it is also outside the limits for the Toyota. You may get away with it for years, but if anything happens, you do not have a leg to stand on. Your warranty is void and your insurance may be too.

bookitty · February 2001

Bob, I constantly drive route 72, which is two lane and fairly flat. I drive 60MPH on cruise which gives me about 1700 RPM. My drive train is the same as yours, but I have not experienced particulary slow acceleration during passing, and with proper anticipation of road (sight) conditions haven't had to downshift. Sometimes when you attempt to pass, the driver on the right confirms that he/she has been driving too slowly, and attempts to correct same by accelerating. Usually, given lighter traffic conditions I can enter a better power band and continue to pass. I have only had to downshift on very rare occasions. On limited access highways where the limit is 65 and traffic moves @ 70 MPH (except for the funeral procession pace car drivers) the engine is in a pretty good power band position.

Bookitty

txqc2000 · February 2001

DrDakota - I have the AWD on my 5.9L STL and haven't had any problems yet. I read somewhere (Car & Driver, I believe) that the QC/Durango AWD system is the same as the Grand Cherokee's SelecTrac system.

1stDakota - I had the indentations cut out and put in PIAA 510 series driving lights b/c I wasn't impressed with the performance from the Dodge fog lights. If you go with the 510's you need to buy the mounting brackets from PIAA as well. These are specifically made for the Dakotas. Other than the better performance you get out of the PIAA's, the install doesn't look any different from stock. I have pics posted of the 510's on my QC at: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000

deangh - if gas mileage scares you, don't go for the 5.9L. My QC is a 2000 SLT 5.9L AWD version with a 3.55 ratio, LSD, and cold air induction system. So far, I have 3k miles on it. If I do 65%hwy/35%street driving (moderately aggressive driving), I get about 14-15 mpg at best. If I do more city driving, say around 60% or more with lots of stop and go and short distance driving, I get around 11-12 mpg. I also find that unless I'm extremely aggressive with the gas pedal, the mpg doesn't seem to be affected significantly if I drive easy or aggressively. From what I've read on this board, the 4.7L seems to get better gas mileage. I would've bought the 4.7L, but the 0.9% financing for 5 yrs. was too hard to pass up at the time. But now, you can get 0.9% short term financing AND $1k back from Dodge OR a $2k rebate if that is a decision making factor for you.

As far as performance, the off the line performance is very good, even with the 3.55 rear axle. I find that in merging or passing situations, performance is good if you keep the O/D off and keep the RPM's near 2500 RPM's, even when passing @ speeds of 65 mph (the RPM's are only 1800 @ 70MPH). Otherwise, unless you have the gas pedal completely hammered, the auto trans will want to upshift when you start to lift the gas pedal. Again, from what I've read on this board, the 4.7L's performance very favorably compares with the 5.9L's, except for the O/D situation (previous posts indicate the 4.7L likes to disengage from O/D and downshift at less than full throttle). I'm adding a Gibson catback system this week, and may add a Jet Stage II chip soon thereafter, which may more favorably change the shift points/characteristics of my auto trans.

Good luck all!

danodw · February 2001

Got th 01 4.7 auto QC. The dealer wants to sell me the extended warranty
for $200 less which will cost $860. for the 5year/75000miles added care, or $650. 5/75 for power train, or $1120. 5/75 for max care. Money is tight for me. I want the extra warranty because I'm not real sure of the quility of the Dodge. Something tells me that if they want even give the 5/50 on thier on warranty then they don't even trust thier trucks. Can anyone give me insight on if I should get the extra warranty or save the money. Do you think all the bugs will be worked out on the 3/36 ( if any bugs come up ). I just can't decide. Give me your thoughts
please.

Also on the fog lights, what are and where do I get the PIAA 510 fog light kit. I too
want to add the F/L but i don't want to drill a hole in dash for switch.
wish my truck would have came with them but dodge forgot to do that on my order, along with the alram.

I have the auto in mine. I have no problems with it but I feel that it could be find tune just a little better when down shifting at a low speed or from second to third. It does not shift as smooth as my full size dodge truck. Maybe its because I don't drive the Dakota full time. Its my wifes truck. I may just be use to my truck and plus the computer may be use to her driving. I still think its a very fun truck to drive. Only have 600 miles on it.
My wife thinks it drives a little stiff on bumps which it does a little, but its a truck not a car.
I think it feels very solid, and quite. On the open Hwy its hard for me to drive it at 70mph
To me it rides really good on the Hwy and the faster the better. Still love it but I don't like the limiter at 97mph. Thanks for all the help

txqc2000 · February 2001

Go to http://www.chryslerwarranty.com to get a price quote on the extended warranty from that dealership. I believe their quote for the top of the line plan @ 4yrs./60K was in the $600 range last time I spoke with them. I plan to do this in the next few months. You can also try http://www.warrantyvillage.com/sams (for Sams Club members) if you don't mind a 3rd party extended warranty plan. The price for 5yrs/75K is cheaper.

Regarding the 510's, you don't have to drill a hole on the dash to mount the switch b/c it has a stick-on backing. You should be able to order these just about anywhere, but if you want them asap for a pretty good, but not the cheapest price, call "Dirty Parts", a 4WD shop in Los Angeles (310-390-9086). Larry, the owner, stocks the mounting brackets for the PIAA's, which is something most dealers don't do. In fact, most PIAA dealers I spoke to locally in Dallas didn't even know that such a part existed.

bobs5 · February 2001

Anyone else have one of these?
Where is the plug?
The manual is kinda vague as to where the plug is.
How long should it be plugged in for?
Thanks for any advice.
Bob

bluebayou · February 2001

Nice truck Sean! Just saw the pictures and she is a beauty!

I did want to ask you about the AWD system in your Dakota. Don't take anything I say personally, I'm just looking for information. Thanks

I have spent numerous hours trying to find out any details on the AWD system offered in the Dakota, but to no avial. I would definetly be more interested if it was one of the "Jeep" systems, especially the selectrac offered in the Grand Cherokee! Unfortunetly, everybody in this owners group seems to think that the system is pretty simple (i.e. a locked center differential with no way to transfer power from rear to front or left to right).

I am starting to think the same way. If Dodge had a pretty technical AWD system, they would tout it as such. Unfortunetly, nobody is really talking about it, and Danial Huard (Whom I really don't like - MSN CARPOINT.com) said that the AWD system in the Durango was not up to par when compared to other offerings.

So once again, I'm confused and nobody can tell me exactly what the AWD system is and how it works. (viscious couplings, jedi mind tricks, etc.)

Any additional information you could supply to me would be greatly appreciated, as I'm looking to order/purchase my truck very soon!!

txqc2000 · February 2001

Unfortunately, I have to agree with you that there's not much info. out there. I also have to agree that the Dakota/Durango AWD is probably not the most sophisticated system in the world. As far as I can tell from driving my truck and my knowledge of various AWD systems from previously owned vehicles, this system has a set split front/rear (what the %'s are, I have no clue). The front wheels are always engaged, unlike some of the systems from Ford/Chevy which engage upon wheel slippage detection. It has only a center diff. lock and in my case, LSD in the rear.

I've driven and owned some vehicles where the split front/rear is computer controlled and varies depending upon the situation, and where the center and rear differentials could lock completely. But honestly, I've rarely driven on terrain that required this much sophistication. So far, I've found the Dodge system to be more than adequate in heavy rain, sleet, ice, and snow.

I'm not sure if Car & Driver is correct about the AWD system being the SelectTrac one, but that's what they wrote a few months back in an article re:the Durango R/T -- something to the effect that the SelectTrac system from the GrandCherokee doubles as the AWD system for the Durango R/T.

slickwilliedj · February 2001

hey i know manufactures under rate capacities somewhat to allow for over loading but towing a 8000lbs boat with a 4cy toyota( or id yours the v6)either way your way over the max towing with either truck.i commend the toyota for pulling proberly 4x its own weight there great trucks however pulling 8000lbs and stopping is another story.sounds like you need a full size dodge 2500 to handle this job properly.... my 2 cents. insurance is another issue if you have a accident and are exceeding the trucks towing cap or have a improper hitch more then likely your insurance will not cover you

tuvtest · February 2001

I have the block heater. The heater itself replaces one of the expansion plugs in the side of the block, going in to the water jacket. The electrical plug is attached to the harness right in front of the radiator support. By releasing a tape you can fish the plug through the front grille so as to plug an extension cord in without raising the hood. The factory plug has a teathered cap that protects the blades of the plug when not in use. I used the heater this winter. The truck sat out in the Chicago area. I had a heavy duty timer set up to turn on the heater about 3 hrs before I left in the morning, and while it doesn't give instantanious hot air, it seriously decreases the time needed to get the heat going. I feel it's a good investment ($35) if you live in a cold area and the truck sits out.

bookitty · February 2001

Bob, although I have the block heater, I have not used it on this truck. If my memory serves me, it will be on the front right (passenger) side, tucked down near the radiator. Usually, I do use it constantly, but since retirement (I traveled) my truck spends nights in the garage in PA where it never goes below 38 degrees. At the beach house the garage is heated. If you intend to use the block heater, get yourself a good heavy duty electrical timer so that you can set the heater to come on a couple or three hours prior to start-up. If you leave them plugged in continuously, there is a tendency for burning out. I usually used mine if it went to 30 degrees or lower. When traveling, I used outlets provided by hotels and motels, and lost some drop cords and timers.

Bookitty

slickwilliedj · February 2001

hey i know manufactures under rate capacities somewhat to allow for over loading but towing a 8000lbs boat with a 4cy toyota( or id yours the v6)either way your way over the max towing with either truck.i commend the toyota for pulling proberly 4x its own weight there great trucks however pulling 8000lbs and stopping is another story.sounds like you need a full size dodge 2500 to handle this job properly.... my 2 cents. insurance is another issue if you have a accident and are exceeding the trucks towing cap or have a improper hitch more then likely your insurance will not cover you

biglucy · February 2001

Hey Norm - Sounds like the purrfect place to have a Quab Cab Owner's meeting!!! I'll call DC and see if they'll pay for expenses. You'd better let us know ahead of time so our Left Coast Friends have enough time to get out here! B']

slickwilliedj · February 2001

hey i know manufactures under rate capacities somewhat to allow for over loading but towing a 8000lbs boat with a 4cy toyota( or id yours the v6)either way your way over the max towing with either truck.i commend the toyota for pulling proberly 4x its own weight there great trucks however pulling 8000lbs and stopping is another story.sounds like you need a full size dodge 2500 to handle this job properly.... my 2 cents. insurance is another issue if you have a accident and are exceeding the trucks towing cap or have a improper hitch more then likely your insurance will not cover you

schoonover · February 2001

re: my previous post(s), I have contacted my dealer about my 4.7, auto, 3.55 quad's tendency to kick out of overdrive easily.

He indicated that their delaership had seen no complaints regarding this complaint. He also said that my complaint sounds as though the throttle position sensor for the tranny may be off.... (as it kicks out of OD with a slight press of the throttle) .

The dealer wants to look at it and I guess that it can't hurt. I will post the results.

Norm

triple_deke1 · February 2001

My Dakota arrived by rail at 9:45am in Newark DE...about 1hr from where I
live!!! Hopefully Ill get a call from the dealer tomorrow saying I can pick it up..
Looks like a sleepless night...........

TD

jimt · February 2001

I have about 1,100 miles on my 01 Quad and am very happy so far. I do have a question concerning a small matter. It does not appear to have an underhood light. My 1992 Dakota had one mounted on underside of hood. I have the auxiliary lighting package. No big deal, as adding one will be easy or keep good flashlite handy, but seemed odd not to continue one. Also current mileage avg. 16mpg with straight highway 18. (4.7,auto,4X4,3.92LSD,tire/handling pkg.) Pretty satisfied with the numbers considering not broken in yet. Performed first oil and filter change this day also. JimT

bookitty · February 2001

Bob, any help towards paying the mortgage will be well appreciated.

Bookitty

2nddak · February 2001

Thought I'd pass along some information that I recently came accross on the use of synthetic oil. It was a report on synthetics, fact and fiction. One point they made is that you do not have to wait for the engine to break in to use a synthetic. They cited that the Dodge Viper, and Corvette both come facory equiped with synthetic in the sump. Now I'll sit back and see what dust this kicks up! 2nddak

Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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